28 resultados para Textile painting

em Université de Lausanne, Switzerland


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Raman spectroscopy has been applied to characterize fiber dyes and determine the discriminating ability of the method. Black, blue, and red acrylic, cotton, and wool samples were analyzed. Four excitation sources were used to obtain complementary responses in the case of fluorescent samples. Fibers that did not provide informative spectra using a given laser were usually detected using another wavelength. For any colored acrylic, the 633-nm laser did not provide Raman information. The 514-nm laser provided the highest discrimination for blue and black cotton, but half of the blue cottons produced noninformative spectra. The 830-nm laser exhibited the highest discrimination for red cotton. Both visible lasers provided the highest discrimination for black and blue wool, and NIR lasers produced remarkable separation for red and black wool. This study shows that the discriminating ability of Raman spectroscopy depends on the fiber type, color, and the laser wavelength.

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There are many paths to reach Rome, immense field open to the eye through the centuries and days, where the presence of the story is haunting. All the artists came to Rome: Italians of various Italian and also French, Dutch, Flemish, Spanish, English and Americans. These painters whose works tell its long history for having lived in the glare of light forever are the Roman pantheon of arts: what are all the anonymous authors of the frescoes of ancient Rome and medieval, but Fabriano, Cimabue , Giotto, Botticelli, Raphael, Giulio Romano, Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Guido Reni, Guercino, Titian, Vasari, Velasquez, Le Nain, Poussin, Zuccari, Van Wittel, Eckersberg, Giraudet, David, Panini, Hubert Robert, Reynolds, Fuseli, Ingres, Sargent, Caffi, Vernet, Turner, Corot, Caffi, De Chirico, etc..

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An active, solvent-free solid sampler was developed for the collection of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) aerosol and prepolymers. The sampler was made of a filter impregnated with 1-(2-methoxyphenyl)piperazine contained in a filter holder. Interferences with HDI were observed when a set of cellulose acetate filters and a polystyrene filter holder were used; a glass fiber filter and polypropylene filter cassette gave better results. The applicability of the sampling and analytical procedure was validated with a test chamber, constructed for the dynamic generation of HDI aerosol and prepolymers in commercial two-component spray paints (Desmodur(R) N75) used in car refinishing. The particle size distribution, temporal stability, and spatial uniformity of the simulated aerosol were established in order to test the sample. The monitoring of aerosol concentrations was conducted with the solid sampler paired to the reference impinger technique (impinger flasks contained 10 mL of 0.5 mg/mL 1-(2-methoxyphenyl)piperazine in toluene) under a controlled atmosphere in the test chamber. Analyses of derivatized HDI and prepolymers were carried out by using high-performance liquid chromatography and ultraviolet detection. The correlation between the solvent-free and the impinger techniques appeared fairly good (Y = 0.979X - 0.161; R = 0.978), when the tests were conducted in the range of 0.1 to 10 times the threshold limit value (TLV) for HDI monomer and up to 60-mu-g/m3 (3 U.K. TLVs) for total -N = C = O groups.

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Life cycle analyses (LCA) approaches require adaptation to reflect the increasing delocalization of production to emerging countries. This work addresses this challenge by establishing a country-level, spatially explicit life cycle inventory (LCI). This study comprises three separate dimensions. The first dimension is spatial: processes and emissions are allocated to the country in which they take place and modeled to take into account local factors. Emerging economies China and India are the location of production, the consumption occurs in Germany, an Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development country. The second dimension is the product level: we consider two distinct textile garments, a cotton T-shirt and a polyester jacket, in order to highlight potential differences in the production and use phases. The third dimension is the inventory composition: we track CO2, SO2, NO (x), and particulates, four major atmospheric pollutants, as well as energy use. This third dimension enriches the analysis of the spatial differentiation (first dimension) and distinct products (second dimension). We describe the textile production and use processes and define a functional unit for a garment. We then model important processes using a hierarchy of preferential data sources. We place special emphasis on the modeling of the principal local energy processes: electricity and transport in emerging countries. The spatially explicit inventory is disaggregated by country of location of the emissions and analyzed according to the dimensions of the study: location, product, and pollutant. The inventory shows striking differences between the two products considered as well as between the different pollutants considered. For the T-shirt, over 70% of the energy use and CO2 emissions occur in the consuming country, whereas for the jacket, more than 70% occur in the producing country. This reversal of proportions is due to differences in the use phase of the garments. For SO2, in contrast, over two thirds of the emissions occur in the country of production for both T-shirt and jacket. The difference in emission patterns between CO2 and SO2 is due to local electricity processes, justifying our emphasis on local energy infrastructure. The complexity of considering differences in location, product, and pollutant is rewarded by a much richer understanding of a global production-consumption chain. The inclusion of two different products in the LCI highlights the importance of the definition of a product's functional unit in the analysis and implications of results. Several use-phase scenarios demonstrate the importance of consumer behavior over equipment efficiency. The spatial emission patterns of the different pollutants allow us to understand the role of various energy infrastructure elements. The emission patterns furthermore inform the debate on the Environmental Kuznets Curve, which applies only to pollutants which can be easily filtered and does not take into account the effects of production displacement. We also discuss the appropriateness and limitations of applying the LCA methodology in a global context, especially in developing countries. Our spatial LCI method yields important insights in the quantity and pattern of emissions due to different product life cycle stages, dependent on the local technology, emphasizing the importance of consumer behavior. From a life cycle perspective, consumer education promoting air-drying and cool washing is more important than efficient appliances. Spatial LCI with country-specific data is a promising method, necessary for the challenges of globalized production-consumption chains. We recommend inventory reporting of final energy forms, such as electricity, and modular LCA databases, which would allow the easy modification of underlying energy infrastructure.

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Methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) bacteria have emerged in the early 1980's in numerous health care institutions around the world. The main transmission mechanism within hospitals and healthcare facilities is through the hands of health care workers. Resistant to several antibiotics, the MRSA is one of the most feared pathogens in the hospital setting since it is very difficult to eradicate with the standard treatments. There are still a limited number of anti-MRSA antibiotics but the first cases of resistance to these compounds have already been reported and their frequency is likely to increase in the coming years. Every year, the MRSA infections result in major human and financial costs, due to the high associated mortality and expenses related to the required care. Measures towards a faster detection of resistant bacteria and establishment of appropriate antibiotic treatment parameters are fundamental. Also as part as infection prevention, diminution of bacteria present on the commonly touched surfaces could also limit the spread and selection of antibiotic resistant bacteria. During my thesis, projects were developed around MRSA and antibiotic resistance investigation using innovative technologies. The thesis was subdivided in three main parts with the use of atomic force microscopy AFM for antibiotic resistance detection in part 1, the importance of the bacterial inoculum size in the selection of antibiotic resistance in part 2 and the testing of antimicrobial surfaces creating by sputtering copper onto polyester in part 3. In part 1 the AFM was used two different ways, first for the measurement of stiffness (elasticity) of bacteria and second as a nanosensor for antibiotic susceptibility testing. The stiffness of MRSA with different susceptibility profiles to vancomycin was investigated using the stiffness tomography mode of the AFM and results have demonstrated and increased stiffness in the vancomycin resistant strains that also paralleled with increased thickness of the bacterial cell wall. Parts of the AFM were also used to build a new antibiotic susceptibility-testing device. This nano sensor was able to measure vibrations emitted from living bacteria that ceased definitively upon antibiotic exposure to which they were susceptible but restarted after antibiotic removal to which they were resistant, allowing in a matter of minute the assessment of antibiotic susceptibility determination. In part 2 the inoculum effect (IE) of vancomycin, daptomycin and linezolid and its importance in antibiotic resistance selection was investigated with MRSA during a 15 days of cycling experiment. Results indicated that a high bacterial inoculum and a prolonged antibiotic exposure were two key factors in the in vitro antibiotic resistance selection in MRSA and should be taken into consideration when choosing the drug treatment. Finally in part 3 bactericidal textile surfaces were investigated against MRSA. Polyesters coated after 160 seconds of copper sputtering have demonstrated a high bactericidal activity reducing the bacterial load of at least 3 logio after one hour of contact. -- Au cours des dernières décennies, des bactéries multirésistantes aux antibiotiques (BMR) ont émergé dans les hôpitaux du monde entier. Depuis lors, le nombre de BMR et la prévalence des infections liées aux soins (IAS) continuent de croître et sont associés à une augmentation des taux de morbidité et de mortalité ainsi qu'à des coûts élevés. De plus, le nombre de résistance à différentes classes d'antibiotiques a également augmenté parmi les BMR, limitant ainsi les options thérapeutiques disponibles lorsqu'elles ont liées a des infections. Des mesures visant une détection plus rapide des bactéries résistantes ainsi que l'établissement des paramètres de traitement antibiotiques adéquats sont primordiales lors d'infections déjà présentes. Dans une optique de prévention, la diminution des bactéries présentes sur les surfaces communément touchées pourrait aussi freiner la dissémination et l'évolution des bactéries résistantes. Durant ma thèse, différents projets incluant des nouvelles technologies et évoluant autour de la résistance antibiotique ont été traités. Des nouvelles technologies telles que le microscope à force atomique (AFM) et la pulvérisation cathodique de cuivre (PCC) ont été utilisées, et le Staphylococcus aureus résistant à la méticilline (SARM) a été la principale BMR étudiée. Deux grandes lignes de recherche ont été développées; la première visant à détecter la résistance antibiotique plus rapidement avec l'AFM et la seconde visant à prévenir la dissémination des BMR avec des surfaces crées grâce à la PCC. L'AFM a tout d'abord été utilisé en tant que microscope à sonde locale afin d'investiguer la résistance à la vancomycine chez les SARMs. Les résultats ont démontré que la rigidité de la paroi augmentait avec la résistance à la vancomycine et que celle-ci corrélait aussi avec une augmentation de l'épaisseur des parois, vérifiée grâce à la microscopie électronique. Des parties d'un AFM ont été ensuite utilisées afin de créer un nouveau dispositif de test de sensibilité aux antibiotiques, un nanocapteur. Ce nanocapteur mesure des vibrations produites par les bactéries vivantes. Après l'ajout d'antibiotique, les vibrations cessent définitivement chez les bactéries sensibles à l'antibiotique. En revanche pour les bactéries résistantes, les vibrations reprennent après le retrait de l'antibiotique dans le milieu permettant ainsi, en l'espace de minutes de détecter la sensibilité de la bactérie à un antibiotique. La PCC a été utilisée afin de créer des surfaces bactéricides pour la prévention de la viabilité des BMR sur des surfaces inertes. Des polyesters finement recouverts de cuivre (Cu), connu pour ses propriétés bactéricides, ont été produits et testés contre des SARMs. Une méthode de détection de viabilité des bactéries sur ces surfaces a été mise au point, et les polyesters obtenus après 160 secondes de pulvérisation au Cu ont démontré une excellente activité bactéricide, diminuant la charge bactérienne d'au moins 3 logio après une heure de contact. En conclusion, l'utilisation de nouvelles technologies nous a permis d'évoluer vers de méthodes de détection de la résistance antibiotique plus rapides ainsi que vers le développement d'un nouveau type de surface bactéricide, dans le but d'améliorer le diagnostic et la gestion des BMR.

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SUMMARY When exposed to heat stress, plants display a particular set of cellular and molecular responses, such as chaperones expression, which are highly conserved in all organisms. In chapter 1, I studied the ability of heat shock genes to become transiently and abundantly induced under various temperature regimes. To this aim, I designed a highly sensitive heat-shock dependent conditional gene expression system in the moss Physcomitrella patens, using the soybean heatinducible promoter (hsp17.3B). Heat-induced expression of various reporter genes was over three orders of magnitude, in tight correlation with the intensity and duration of the heat treatments. By performing repeated heating/cooling cycles, a massive accumulation of recombinant proteins was obtained. Interestingly, the hsp17.3B promoter was also activated by specific organic chemicals. Thus, in chapter 2, I took advantage of the extreme sensitivity of this promoter to small temperature variations to further address the role of various natural and organic chemicals and develop a plant based-bioassay that can serve as an early warning indicator of toxicity by pollutants and heavy metals. A screen of several organic pollutants from textile and paper industry showed that chlorophenols as well as sulfonated anthraquinones elicited a heat shock like response at noninducing temperatures. Their effects were synergistically amplified by mild elevated temperatures. In contrast to standard methods of pollutant detection, this plant-based biosensor allowed to monitor early stress-responses, in correlation with long-term toxic effect, and to attribute effective toxicity thresholds for pollutants, in a context of varying environmental cues. In chapter 3, I deepened the study of the primary mechanism by which plants sense mild temperature variations and trigger a cellular signal leading to the heat shock response. In addition to the above described heat-inducible reporter line, I generated a P. patens transgenic line to measure, in vivo, variations of cytosolic calcium during heat treatment, and another line to monitor the role of protein unfolding in heat-shock sensing and signalling. The heat shock signalling pathway was found to be triggered by the plasma membrane, where temperature up shift specifically induced the transient opening of a putative high afimity calcium channel. The calcium influx triggered a signalling cascade leading to the activation of the heat shock genes, independently on the presence of misfolded proteins in the cytoplasm. These results strongly suggest that changes in the fluidity of the plasma membrane are the primary trigger of the heatshocksignalling pathway in plants. The present thesis contributes to the understanding of the basic mechanism by which plants perceive and respond to heat and chemical stresses. This may contribute to developing appropriate better strategies to enhance plant productivity under the increasingly stressful environment of global warming. RÉSUME Les plantes exposées à des températures élevées déclenchent rapidement des réponses cellulaires qui conduisent à l'induction de gènes codant pour les heat shock proteins (HSPs). En fonction de la durée d'exposition et de la vitesse à laquelle la température augmente, les HSPs sont fortement et transitoirement induites. Dans le premier chapitre, cette caractéristique aété utilisée pour développer un système inductible d'expression de gènes dans la mousse Physcomitrella patens. En utilisant plusieurs gènes rapporteurs, j'ai montré que le promoteur du gène hsp17.3B du Soja est activé d'une manière. homogène dans tous les tissus de la mousse proportionnellement à l'intensité du heat shock physiologique appliqué. Un très fort taux de protéines recombinantes peut ainsi être produit en réalisant plusieurs cycles induction/recovery. De plus, ce promoteur peut également être activé par des composés organiques, tels que les composés anti-inflammatoires, ce qui constitue une bonne alternative à l'induction par la chaleur. Les HSPs sont induites pour remédier aux dommages cellulaires qui surviennent. Étant donné que le promoteur hsp17.3B est très sensible à des petites augmentations de température ainsi qu'à des composés chimiques, j'ai utilisé les lignées développées dans le chapitre 1 pour identifier des polluants qui déclenchent une réaction de défense impliquant les HSPs. Après un criblage de plusieurs composés, les chlorophénols et les antraquinones sulfonés ont été identifiés comme étant activateurs du promoteur de stress. La détection de leurs effets a été réalisée seulement après quelques heures d'exposition et corrèle parfaitement avec les effets toxiques détectés après de longues périodes d'exposition. Les produits identifiés montrent aussi un effet synergique avec la température, ce qui fait du biosensor développé dans ce chapitre un bon outil pour révéler les effets réels des polluants dans un environnement où les stress chimiques sont combinés aux stress abiotiques. Le troisième chapitre est consacré à l'étude des mécanismes précoces qui permettent aux plantes de percevoir la chaleur et ainsi de déclencher une cascade de signalisation spécifique qui aboutit à l'induction des gènes HSPs. J'ai généré deux nouvelles lignées afin de mesurer en temps réel les changements de concentrations du calcium cytosolique ainsi que l'état de dénaturation des protéines au cours du heat shock. Quand la fluidité de la membrane augmente après élévation de la température, elle semble induire l'ouverture d'un canal qui permet de faire entrer le calcium dans les cellules. Ce dernier initie une cascade de signalisation qui finit par activer la transcription des gènes HSPs indépendamment de la dénaturation de protéines cytoplasmiques. Les résultats présentés dans ce chapitre montrent que la perception de la chaleur se fait essentiellement au niveau de la membrane plasmique qui joue un rôle majeur dans la régulation des gènes HSPs. L'élucidation des mécanismes par lesquels les plantes perçoivent les signaux environnementaux est d'une grande utilité pour le développement de nouvelles stratégies afin d'améliorer la productivité des plantes soumises à des conditions extrêmes. La présente thèse contribue à décortiquer la voie de signalisation impliquée dans la réponse à la chaleur.

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Deficiency of protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR2) modulates inflammation in several models of inflammatory and autoimmune disease, although the underlying mechanism(s) are not understood. PAR2 is expressed on endothelial and immune cells, and is implicated in dendritic cell (DC) differentiation. We investigated in vivo the impact of PAR2 activation on DCs and T cells in PAR2 wild-type (WT) and knockout (KO) mice using a specific PAR2 agonist peptide (AP2). PAR2 activation significantly increased the frequency of mature CD11c(high) DCs in draining lymph nodes 24 hr after AP2 administration. Furthermore, these DCs exhibited increased expression of major histocompatibility complex (MHC) class II and CD86. A significant increase in activated (CD44(+) CD62(-)) CD4(+) and CD8(+) T-cell frequencies was also observed in draining lymph nodes 48 hr after AP2 injection. No detectable change in DC or T-cell activation profiles was observed in the spleen. The influence of PAR2 signalling on antigen transport to draining lymph nodes was assessed in the context of delayed-type hypersensitivity. PAR2 WT mice that were sensitized by skin-painting with fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC) to induce delayed-type hypersensitivity possessed elevated proportion of FITC(+) DCs in draining lymph nodes 24 hr after FITC painting when compared with PAR2 KO mice (0.95% versus 0.47% of total lymph node cells). Collectively, these results demonstrate that PAR2 signalling promotes DC trafficking to the lymph nodes and subsequent T-cell activation, and thus provides an explanation for the pro-inflammatory effect of PAR2 in animal models of inflammation.

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The most valuable pigment of the Roman wall paintings was the red color obtained from powdered cinnabar (Minium Cinnabaris pigment), the red mercury sulfide (HgS), which was brought from mercury (Hg) deposits in the Roman Empire. To address the question of whether sulfur isotope signatures can serve as a rapid method to establish the provenance of the red pigment in Roman frescoes, we have measured the sulfur isotope composition (delta(34) S value in parts per thousand VCDT) in samples of wall painting from the Roman city Aventicum (Avenches, Vaud, Switzerland) and compared them with values from cinnabar from European mercury deposits (Almaden in Spain, Idria in Slovenia, Monte Amiata in Italy, Moschellandsberg in Germany, and Genepy in France). Our study shows that the delta(34) S values of cinnabar from the studied Roman wall paintings fall within or near to the composition of Almaden cinnabar; thus, the provenance of the raw material may be deduced. This approach may provide information on provenance and authenticity in archaeological, restoration and forensic studies of Roman and Greek frescoes. Copyright (c) 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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This chapter discusses how the industrial ecological systems can help in dealing with environmental issues in developing countries, and it presents three case studies from India that highlight some of the unique environmental issues of developing world. Industrial ecology explores the assumption that the industrial system can be seen as a certain kind of ecosystem. The scope of industrial ecology goes well beyond waste exchange to the optimization of resources flowing through the economic system. Among the various specific aspects of developing countries, which have to be born in mind, is the fact that the pattern of resource flows in developing countries, and hence, the resultant environmental threat could be very different than what it is in the industrialized west. Typically, the flow of materials through the large, organized manufacturing facilities in the developing countries could be very small in relation to the overall material flow as the small, informal ?industry? plays a key role and forms a very significant portion of the economic activity. The case studies of the Tirupur textile industries, and the leather industry in India, illustrate how redefining the problem from a perspective of resource conservation, and on the basis of resource flow data could point to totally new directions for strategy planning. The case study of the Damodar Valley region amplifies the importance of looking beyond formal industry to solve an environmental problem. It shows that even for globally critical programs, such as climate change program in developing countries, it is just not enough to estimate the emissions from the formal industrial sectors.

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RESUME La méthode de la spectroscopie Raman est une technique d'analyse chimique basée sur l'exploitation du phénomène de diffusion de la lumière (light scattering). Ce phénomène fut observé pour la première fois en 1928 par Raman et Krishnan. Ces observations permirent à Raman d'obtenir le Prix Nobel en physique en 1930. L'application de la spectroscopie Raman a été entreprise pour l'analyse du colorant de fibres textiles en acrylique, en coton et en laine de couleurs bleue, rouge et noire. Nous avons ainsi pu confirmer que la technique est adaptée pour l'analyse in situ de traces de taille microscopique. De plus, elle peut être qualifiée de rapide, non destructive et ne nécessite aucune préparation particulière des échantillons. Cependant, le phénomène de la fluorescence s'est révélé être l'inconvénient le plus important. Lors de l'analyse des fibres, différentes conditions analytiques ont été testées et il est apparu qu'elles dépendaient surtout du laser choisi. Son potentiel pour la détection et l'identification des colorants imprégnés dans les fibres a été confirmé dans cette étude. Une banque de données spectrale comprenant soixante colorants de référence a été réalisée dans le but d'identifier le colorant principal imprégné dans les fibres collectées. De plus, l'analyse de différents blocs de couleur, caractérisés par des échantillons d'origine inconnue demandés à diverses personnes, a permis de diviser ces derniers en plusieurs groupes et d'évaluer la rareté des configurations des spectres Raman obtenus. La capacité de la technique Raman à différencier ces échantillons a été évaluée et comparée à celle des méthodes conventionnelles pour l'analyse des fibres textiles, à savoir la micro spectrophotométrie UV-Vis (MSP) et la chromatographie sur couche mince (CCM). La technique Raman s'est révélée être moins discriminatoire que la MSP pour tous les blocs de couleurs considérés. C'est pourquoi dans le cadre d'une séquence analytique nous recommandons l'utilisation du Raman après celle de la méthode d'analyse de la couleur, à partir d'un nombre de sources lasers le plus élevé possible. Finalement, la possibilité de disposer d'instruments équipés avec plusieurs longueurs d'onde d'excitation, outre leur pouvoir de réduire la fluorescence, permet l'exploitation d'un plus grand nombre d'échantillons. ABSTRACT Raman spectroscopy allows for the measurement of the inelastic scattering of light due to the vibrational modes of a molecule when irradiated by an intense monochromatic source such as a laser. Such a phenomenon was observed for the first time by Raman and Krishnan in 1928. For this observation, Raman was awarded with the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1930. The application of Raman spectroscopy has been undertaken for the dye analysis of textile fibers. Blue, black and red acrylics, cottons and wools were examined. The Raman technique presents advantages such as non-destructive nature, fast analysis time, and the possibility of performing microscopic in situ analyses. However, the problem of fluorescence was often encountered. Several aspects were investigated according to the best analytical conditions for every type/color fiber combination. The potential of the technique for the detection and identification of dyes was confirmed. A spectral database of 60 reference dyes was built to detect the main dyes used for the coloration of fiber samples. Particular attention was placed on the discriminating power of the technique. Based on the results from the Raman analysis for the different blocs of color submitted to analyses, it was possible to obtain different classes of fibers according to the general shape of spectra. The ability of Raman spectroscopy to differentiate samples was compared to the one of the conventional techniques used for the analysis of textile fibers, like UV-Vis Microspectrophotometry (UV-Vis MSP) and thin layer chromatography (TLC). The Raman technique resulted to be less discriminative than MSP for every bloc of color considered in this study. Thus, it is recommended to use Raman spectroscopy after MSP and light microscopy to be considered for an analytical sequence. It was shown that using several laser wavelengths allowed for the reduction of fluorescence and for the exploitation of a higher number of samples.