What determines the wavelength of self-organized shoreline sand waves?

Shoreline undulations extending into the bathymetric contours with a length scale larger than that of the rhythmic surf zone bars are referred to as shoreline sand waves. Many observed undulations along sandy coasts display a wavelength in the order 1-7 km. Several models that are based on the hypothesis that sand waves emerge from a morphodynamic instability in case of very oblique wave incidence predict this range of wavelengths. Here we investigate the physical reasons for the wavelength selection and the main parametric trends of the wavelength in case of sand waves arising from such instability. It is shown that the existence of a minimum wavelength depends on an interplay between three factors affecting littoral drift: (A) the angle of wave fronts relative to local shoreline, which tends to cause maximum transport at the downdrift flank of the sand wave, (B) the refractive energy spreading which tends to cause maximum transport at the updrift flank and (C) wave focusing (de-focusing) by the capes (bays), which tends to cause maximum transport at the crest or slightly downdrift of it. Processes A and C cause decay of the sand waves while process B causes their growth. For low incidence angles, B is very weak so that a rectilinear shoreline is stable. For large angles and long sand waves, B is dominant and causes the growth of sand waves. For large angles and short sand waves C is dominant and the sand waves decay. Thus, wavelength selection depends on process C, which essentially depends on shoreline curvature. The growth rate of very long sand waves is weak because the alongshore gradients in sediment transport decrease with the wavelength. This is why there is an optimum or dominant wavelength. It is found that sand wave wavelength scales with λ0/β where λ0 is the water wave wavelength in deep water and β is the mean bed slope from shore to the wave base.

Oscil.lacions del nivell del mar i sediments associats durant l'Holocè a la Costa Brava Meridional (Girona)

Several marine deposits in the southern Costa Brava shoreline have been studied. They appear at different heights above and below the present sea level. Three groups are defined in relation to their origin: conglomerate levels at the bottom of the cliffs, not-cementedemerged beaches and cemented submerged beaches. The age of the emerged beaches has been accurately determined by means of the ceramic content and radiocarbon dating. Chronological succession of the deposits and their stratigraphic and paleontological characteristics allow to define a sequence of the sea level changes during the latest stages of the versiliane transgression in the studied area

Microsatellite markers reveal shallow genetic differentiation between cohorts of the common sea urchin Paracentrotus lividus (Lamarck) in northwest Mediterranean

Temporal variability was studied in the common sea urchin Paracentrotus lividus through the analysis of the genetic composition of three yearly cohorts sampled over two consecutive springs in a locality in northwestern Mediterranean. Individuals were aged using growth ring patterns observed in tests and samples were genotyped for five microsatellite loci. No reduction of genetic diversity was observed relative to a sample of the adult population from the same location or within cohorts across years. FST and amova results indicated that the differentiation between cohorts is rather shallow and not significant, as most variability is found within cohorts and within individuals. This mild differentiation translated into estimates of effective population size of 90100 individuals. When the observed excess of homozygotes was taken into account, the estimate of the average number of breeders increased to c. 300 individuals. Given our restricted sampling area and the known small-scale heterogeneity in recruitment in this species, our results suggest that at stretches of a few kilometres of shoreline, large numbers of progenitors are likely to contribute to the larval pool at each reproduction event. Intercohort variation in our samples is six times smaller than spatial variation between adults of four localities in the western Mediterranean. Our results indicate that, notwithstanding the stochastic events that take place during the long planktonic phase and during the settlement and recruitment processes, reproductive success in this species is high enough to produce cohorts genetically diverse and with little differentiation between them. Further research is needed before the link between genetic structure and underlying physical and biological processes can be well established.

Impacts on the deep-sea ecosystem by a severe coastal storm

Major coastal storms, associated with strong winds, high waves and intensified currents, and occasionally with heavy rains and flash floods, are mostly known because of the serious damage they can cause along the shoreline and the threats they pose to navigation. However, there is a profound lack of knowledge on the deep-sea impacts of severe coastal storms. Concurrent measurements of key parameters along the coast and in the deep-sea are extremely rare. Here we present a unique data set showing how one of the most extreme coastal storms of the last decades lashing the Western Mediterranean Sea rapidly impacted the deep-sea ecosystem. The storm peaked the 26th of December 2008 leading to the remobilization of a shallow-water reservoir of marine organic carbon associated with fine particles and resulting in its redistribution across the deep basin. The storm also initiated the movement of large amounts of coarse shelf sediment, which abraded and buried benthic communities. Our findings demonstrate, first, that severe coastal storms are highly efficient in transporting organic carbon from shallow water to deep water, thus contributing to its sequestration and, second, that natural, intermittent atmospheric drivers sensitive to global climate change have the potential to tremendously impact the largest and least known ecosystem on Earth, the deep-sea ecosystem.

Impacts on the deep-sea ecosystem by a severe coastal storm

Major coastal storms, associated with strong winds, high waves and intensified currents, and occasionally with heavy rains and flash floods, are mostly known because of the serious damage they can cause along the shoreline and the threats they pose to navigation. However, there is a profound lack of knowledge on the deep-sea impacts of severe coastal storms. Concurrent measurements of key parameters along the coast and in the deep-sea are extremely rare. Here we present a unique data set showing how one of the most extreme coastal storms of the last decades lashing the Western Mediterranean Sea rapidly impacted the deep-sea ecosystem. The storm peaked the 26th of December 2008 leading to the remobilization of a shallow-water reservoir of marine organic carbon associated with fine particles and resulting in its redistribution across the deep basin. The storm also initiated the movement of large amounts of coarse shelf sediment, which abraded and buried benthic communities. Our findings demonstrate, first, that severe coastal storms are highly efficient in transporting organic carbon from shallow water to deep water, thus contributing to its sequestration and, second, that natural, intermittent atmospheric drivers sensitive to global climate change have the potential to tremendously impact the largest and least known ecosystem on Earth, the deep-sea ecosystem.

Vanishing Clams on an iberian beach: local consequences and global implication of accelerating loss of shells to tourism

Multi-decadal increase in shell removal by tourists, a process that may accelerate degradation of natural habitats, was quantified via two series of monthly surveys, conducted thirty years apart (1978-1981 and 2008-2010) in one small embayment on the Mediterranean coast of Spain. Over the last three decades, the local tourist arrivals have increased almost three-fold (2.74), while the area has remained unaffected by urban encroachment and commercial fisheries. Concomitantly, abundance of mollusk shells along the shoreline decreased almost three-fold (2.62) and displayed a tight inverse correlation with tourist arrivals. A four-fold increase in tourist arrivals observed globally over the last 30 years has likely induced a comparable worldwide acceleration in shell removal from marine shorelines and exerted multiple negative (but currently unquantifiable) habitat changes that may include increased beach erosion, changes in carbon and calcium cycles, and decline in diversity and abundance of organisms dependent on shell availability.

Influence on present-day coastal dynamics and evolution of a relict subaqueous delta lobe: Sol de Riu lobe, Ebro Delta. Continental Shelf Research, 74: 94-104. doi:10.1016/j.csr.2013.11.021

We used high-resolution swath-bathymetry data to characterise the morphology of the abandoned subaqueous Sol de Riu delta lobe in the Ebro Delta, Western Mediterranean Sea. This study aims to assess the influence of an abandoned delta lobe on present-day coastal dynamics in a micro-tidal environment. Detailed mapping of the relict Sol de Riu lobe also showed a set of bedforms interpreted as footprints of human activities: seasonal V-shaped depressions on the middle shoreface due to boat anchoring and old trawling marks between 16 and 18 m water depth. Estimations of the mobility of bottom sediment showed that the shallowest shoreface (i.e. less than 7 m depth) is the most dynamic part of the relict lobe, while the middle shoreface experienced significant morphological changes since the lobe was abandoned. The deepest shoreface (i.e. water depth in excess of 15 m), which corresponds to the front of the lobe, is defined by a very small potential for morphological change. Simulations showed that while the relict lobe does not significantly affect the typical short period waves (Tp ≈4 s) in the study area, it does interfere with the most energetic wave conditions (Tp ≥ 7 s) acting as a shoal leading to the concentration of wave energy along the shoreline northwest of the lobe. The consequence of such modification of the high-energy wave propagation pattern by the relict lobe is an alteration of the wave-induced littoral sediment dynamics with respect to a situation without the lobe.

Landslides cause tsunami waves: insights from Aysén Fjord, Chile

On 21 April 2007, an Mw 6.2 earthquake produced an unforeseen chain of events in the Aysén fjord (Chilean Patagonia, 45.5°S). The earthquake triggered hundreds of subaerial landslides along the fjord flanks. Some of the landslides eventually involved a subaqueous component that, in turn, generated a series of displacement waves tsunami- like waves produced by the fast entry of a ubaerial landmass into a water body within the fjord [Naranjo et al., 2009; Sepúlveda and Serey, 2009; Hermanns et al., 2013]. These waves, with run-ups several meters high along the shoreline, caused 10 fatalities. In addition, they severely damaged salmon farms, which constitute the main economic activity in the region, setting free millions of cultivated salmon with still unknown ecological consequences.

Effects of coastal submarine canyons on tsunami propagation and impact

We analyse the variations produced on tsunami propagation and impact over a straight coastline because of the presence of a submarine canyon incised in the continental margin. For ease of calculation we assume that the shoreline and the shelf edge are parallel and that the incident wave approaches them normally. A total of 512 synthetic scenarios have been computed by combining the bathymetry of a continental margin incised by a parameterised single canyon and the incident tsunami waves. The margin bathymetry, the canyon and the tsunami waves have been generated using mathematical functions (e.g. Gaussian). Canyon parameters analysed are: (i) incision length into the continental shelf, which for a constant shelf width relates directly to the distance from the canyon head to the coast, (ii) canyon width, and (iii) canyon orientation with respect to the shoreline. Tsunami wave parameters considered are period and sign. The COMCOT tsunami model from Cornell University was applied to propagate the waves across the synthetic bathymetric surfaces. Five simulations of tsunami propagation over a non-canyoned margin were also performed for reference. The analysis of the results reveals a strong variation of tsunami arrival times and amplitudes reaching the coastline when a tsunami wave travels over a submarine canyon, with changing maximum height location and alongshore extension. In general, the presence of a submarine canyon lowers the arrival time to the shoreline but prevents wave build-up just over the canyon axis. This leads to a decrease in tsunami amplitude at the coastal stretch located just shoreward of the canyon head, which results in a lower run-up in comparison with a non-canyoned margin. Contrarily, an increased wave build-up occurs on both sides of the canyon head, generating two coastal stretches with an enhanced run-up. These aggravated or reduced tsunami effects are modified with (i) proximity of the canyon tip to the coast, amplifying the wave height, (ii) canyon width, enlarging the areas with lower and higher maximum height wave along the coastline, and (iii) canyon obliquity with respect to the shoreline and shelf edge, increasing wave height shoreward of the leeward flank of the canyon. Moreover, the presence of a submarine canyon near the coast produces a variation of wave energy along the shore, eventually resulting in edge waves shoreward of the canyon head. Edge waves subsequently spread out alongshore reaching significant amplitudes especially when coupling with tsunami secondary waves occurs. Model results have been groundtruthed using the actual bathymetry of Blanes Canyon area in the North Catalan margin. This paper underlines the effects of the presence, morphology and orientation of submarine canyons as a determining factor on tsunami propagation and impact, which could prevail over other effects deriving from coastal configuration.

Estratigrafía secuencial de sistemas deltaicos en cuencas de antepaís: ejemplos de Montserrat, Sant Llorenç del Munt, Montserrat y Roda (Paleogeno, cuenca de Antepaís surpirenaica).

After the sedimentological study of the Sant Llorenc del Munt, Montserrat and Roda deltaic systems, a stratigraphic subdivision based on three different scale transgressiveregressive sequences has been developed. This subdivision has been established on the coastal facies belts from the deduced shoreline (and associated facies belts) migration. These transgressive-regressive sequences are formed by a lower transgressive part with a deepening-upwards trend and a retrogradational staclung pattern and an upper regressive part, with shallowing-upwards trend and a progradational stacking pattern. The lowest scale sequences (metrical) have been named 'fundamental sequences'. A series of 'composite sequences', intermediate scale (decametric to hectometric), have been defined afier the study of the staclung pattem of the fundamental sequences. After the study of the stacking pattem of composite sequences there have been defined a series of large-scale (decametric to kilometric) 'composite megasequences'.

The Role of Canyons in Strata Formation

This paper provides a spatial and temporal multi-scale approach of European submarine canyons. We fi rst present the long-term geologic view of European margins as related to controls on submarine canyon development. Then we discuss the extent to which submarine canyon systems resemble river systems because both essentially form drainage networks. Finally, we deal with the hortest-term, highestresolution scale to get a fl avor of the current functioning and health of modern submarine canyons in the northwestern Mediterranean Sea. Submarine canyons are unique features of the seafl oor whose existence was known by European fi shermen centuries ago, especially for those canyons that have their heads at short distance from shoreline. Popular names given to specifi c canyons in the different languages spoken in European coastal communities refer to the concepts of a"deep" or"trench." In the old times it was also common thinking that submarine canyons where so deep that nobody could measure their depth or even that they had no bottom. Submarine canyons are just one of the seven different types of seafl oor valleys identifi ed by Shepard (1973) in his pioneering morphogenetic classifi cation. Shepard (1973) defined submarine canyons as"steep-walled, sinuous valleys, with V-shaped cross sections, and relief comparable even to the largest of land canyons; tributaries are found in most of the canyons and rock outcrops abound on their walls." Canyons are features typical of continental slopes with their upper reaches and heads cut into the continental shelf.