Frontshear and backshear instabilities of the mean longshore current

An analytical model based on Bowen and Holman [1989] is used to prove the existence of instabilities due to the presence of a second extremum of the background vorticity at the front side of the longshore current. The growth rate of the so-called frontshear waves depends primarily upon the frontshear but also upon the backshear and the maximum and the width of the current. Depending on the values of these parameters, either the frontshear or the backshear instabilities may dominate. Both types of waves have a cross-shore extension of the order of the width of the current, but the frontshear modes are localized closer to the coast than are the backshear modes. Moreover, under certain conditions both unstable waves have similar growth rates with close wave numbers and angular frequencies, leading to the possibility of having modulated shear waves in the alongshore direction. Numerical analysis performed on realistic current profiles confirm the behavior anticipated by the analytical model. The theory has been applied to a current profile fitted to data measured during the 1980 Nearshore Sediment Transport Studies experiment at Leadbetter Beach that has an extremum of background vorticity at the front side of the current. In this case and in agreement with field observations, the model predicts instability, whereas the theory based only on backshear instability fai led to do so.

What determines the wavelength of self-organized shoreline sand waves?

Shoreline undulations extending into the bathymetric contours with a length scale larger than that of the rhythmic surf zone bars are referred to as shoreline sand waves. Many observed undulations along sandy coasts display a wavelength in the order 1-7 km. Several models that are based on the hypothesis that sand waves emerge from a morphodynamic instability in case of very oblique wave incidence predict this range of wavelengths. Here we investigate the physical reasons for the wavelength selection and the main parametric trends of the wavelength in case of sand waves arising from such instability. It is shown that the existence of a minimum wavelength depends on an interplay between three factors affecting littoral drift: (A) the angle of wave fronts relative to local shoreline, which tends to cause maximum transport at the downdrift flank of the sand wave, (B) the refractive energy spreading which tends to cause maximum transport at the updrift flank and (C) wave focusing (de-focusing) by the capes (bays), which tends to cause maximum transport at the crest or slightly downdrift of it. Processes A and C cause decay of the sand waves while process B causes their growth. For low incidence angles, B is very weak so that a rectilinear shoreline is stable. For large angles and long sand waves, B is dominant and causes the growth of sand waves. For large angles and short sand waves C is dominant and the sand waves decay. Thus, wavelength selection depends on process C, which essentially depends on shoreline curvature. The growth rate of very long sand waves is weak because the alongshore gradients in sediment transport decrease with the wavelength. This is why there is an optimum or dominant wavelength. It is found that sand wave wavelength scales with λ0/β where λ0 is the water wave wavelength in deep water and β is the mean bed slope from shore to the wave base.

Warranties used as a mean to promote commercial FOSS

From a business standpoint, this paper describes the point of view on the question of warranties of a FOSS editor doing business in a risk-averse market segment. It is based on 15-years experience of AdaCore in the safety-critical embedded industry. However, it is not only the point of view of a provider, as it also aims at demonstrating that the interests of providers and users are aligned in this area. From a legal point of view, the enforceability of these warranties will be partly covered, as well as the articulation between the license and the warranties on one hand, and the articulation between the license and the other contracts that can be created in a business relationship on the other hand.

Giant monopole energies from a constrained relativistic mean-field approach

Background:Average energies of nuclear collective modes may be efficiently and accurately computed using a nonrelativistic constrained approach without reliance on a random phase approximation (RPA). Purpose: To extend the constrained approach to the relativistic domain and to establish its impact on the calibration of energy density functionals. Methods: Relativistic RPA calculations of the giant monopole resonance (GMR) are compared against the predictions of the corresponding constrained approach using two accurately calibrated energy density functionals. Results: We find excellent agreement at the 2% level or better between the predictions of the relativistic RPA and the corresponding constrained approach for magic (or semimagic) nuclei ranging from 16 O to 208 Pb. Conclusions: An efficient and accurate method is proposed for incorporating nuclear collective excitations into the calibration of future energy density functionals.