10 resultados para Psychos-sociology of fashion


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O presente artigo visa analisar e confrontar duas passagens que, em nossa opinião, não só patenteiam algumas semelhanças estruturais ou formais como poderão eventualmente cumprir nas obras respectivas uma função homóloga, enquanto denúncia de males (ou advertência contra perigos) sociais e morais engendrados(áveis) pelo crescimento e/ou florescimento económico(s) como o materialismo, a mundanidade e a ociosidade. A primeira passagem, extraída de The Rape of the Lock, de Alexander Pope (1688-1744), reconstitui-nos o toucador de uma recém-acordada Belinda, enquanto a segunda, colhida de Uma Família Inglesa, de Júlio Dinis (1839-71), nos franqueia as portas do quarto de um ainda adormecido Carlos Whitestone. Embora não seja evidentemente possível nem sequer desejável desenraizar por completo estas passagens dos solos textuais de onde brotaram (o poema herói-cómico de Pope e aquele que é, afinal, o único romance citadino de Júlio Dinis) nem talvez da demais produção literária dos respectivos autores, procuraremos situar-nos neste estudo ao nível restrito dos trechos, deles extravazando apenas na medida do que tivermos por útil, conveniente ou necessário.

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A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

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Zara was founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega Gaona, soon becoming the largest and most successful chain of the Galician group Inditex (Industria de Diseño Textil) and a pioneer of the rising fashion category of Fast Fashion. Its innovative vertically-integrated strategies, combined with its emphasis on quality and demand-based offer have shaped the world of fashion and brought forth many questions on its future sustainability and growth. Zara has always relied on its store network for advertising its product offer; allowing its garments to “speak for themselves”. With the continued pressure felt in the industry, management has pressed some concerns about future company growth and creative, innovating solutions must be implemented to guarantee Zara’s future growth. The case-study narrative focuses on these issues and leaves readers with an open question regarding what decision to implement.

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Objects matter when professionals collaborate to create new products. Chapter 1 explains the intention of this work, to apply theories on objects in the empirical context of fashion design. Chapter 2 addresses the question of how creative professionals learn about and use strategy tools to turn their artistic fame into a commercial success. For Chapter 3 I collected ethnographic data on the development of a seasonal collection from the idea to the presentation at Fashion Week. The result is a deep insight into the collaborative processes and material objects used when a stable team of designers works with several outside experts. Chapter 4 applies the knowledge of the role of objects in fashion design gained during the ethnography in the context of online co-creation and crowd sourced fashion items. The synthesis of the empirical studies allows me to present the conceptual leap in Chapter 5. In the theoretical essay I review the findings on the role of objects in collaborations in relation to practice theory, present the new concept of the comprehensive object and conclude by stating the possibilities for future research.

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The present article is based on the MA thesis of Hou Bowen (Ph.D candidate) and on the presentation made at the ISA World Congress of Sociology held in Yokohama (Japan) on July 2014 at the Session on “Assessing Technologies: Global Patterns of Trust and Distrust” of RC23-Sociology of Science and Technology.

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Dissertation presented for the PhD Degree in Education Science – Curricular Theory and Science Teaching, by Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia

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Due to the decline of the heavy industries in the Ruhr region, the area has to reinvent itself. The orientation towards service industries proves to be a difficult task for the district and its population. This paper examines the challenges, problems and potentials of the Ruhr region against the backdrop of its economical history out of a sociological perspective. Thereby the economical situation and its outcome towards the population stand in the foreground of the paper.

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The aim of this paper is to identify, analyse and question the expressions of humour in O Espreitador do Mundo Novo, a monthly periodical published by José Daniel Rodrigues da Costa throughout 1802. It is a chapter of a PhD thesis in History and Theory of Ideas with the title “Correcting by laughter. Humour in Portuguese periodical press 1797-1834”. Positing humour as a social and cultural phenomenon, it is regarded here in a broad sense, comprehending wit, joke, ridicule, satire, jest, mockery, facetiousness or irony, displayed with recourse to various figures of speech. This interdisciplinary work intends listing and researching the themes and issues of the periodical and its targets, namely the social, age or gender stereotypes and to acknowledge its political stances. Another main purpose of this paper is to assess the role of humour as expressed in the printed periodical as a political and social weapon, criticizing ways (and which ways) and/or fashions, often ridiculing novelty just for being new in order to maintain the statu quo, and to establish in which senses humour was used in the context of late Ancien Régime and early liberalism culture. The humour of O Espreitador has also played a part in framing a public sphere in early nineteenth-century Portugal, as can be seen by the different “stages” and backgrounds where the monthly installments of the periodical take place: squares, coffee houses, fairgrounds, private houses, jailhouses, churches, public promenades, pilgrimages, bullfights, parties, the opera house – each of them a space of sociability and socialization. In this one, as in other periodicals of the time, printed humour stands at the crossroads of politics and culture, in spaces boldly widening before the reader. Albeit, there are quite a few loud silences in O Espreitador: not even the slightest remark to the church, the clergy or the Inquisition, only reverential references to the established order and the powers that be. The periodical criticizes the criticizers; it is against those who are against. The repeated disclaimers are intended not only to protect the author from libel suits or other litigation. They belong to a centuries-old tradition which, as early as the Middle Ages, has set apart escárnio (scorn) from maldizer (slander): José Daniel Rodrigues da Costa distinguishes satire from rebuking vice – a “cheerful criticism” forerunner of the ironic humour which was to become a trademark of Portuguese literature in the second half of the nineteenth century. Targeting those who deviate from the social norm (for example social climbers and older women who marry young men) or the followers of fashion (sometimes specifically “French fashion”), O Espreitador charges at liberal and progressive ideas. It ridicules the ways of the “New World” in order to perpetuate an idealized version of the “Old World”. Notwithstanding two exceptions – it condemns racism and bullfighting –, the humour of O Espreitador is conservative and conformist from a social and political standpoint.

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A compreensão da ocorrência das doenças em termos de risco e o estabelecimento de relações com os chamados estilos de vida, colocam na experiência de doença um acréscimo de conotações morais, um dever de autodisciplina e responsabilidade. Estes princípios têm sido inúmeras vezes sublinhados nos discursos e políticas da Saúde Pública, nomeadamente no que concerne às doenças cardiovasculares pela importância epidemiológica, económica e social de que se revestem e consequente necessidade de redução da sua grande incidência na população, como é o caso de Portugal. A hipertensão, como doença crónica e fator de risco cardiovascular sujeita os doentes a controlo médico periódico, terapêutica farmacológica e impele a um comprometimento com comportamentos alimentares e exercício físico adequado. Através das entrevistas realizadas a doentes hipertensos utentes da consulta específica em Cuidados de Saúde Primários, verifica-se a presença de modos diversos de agir perante a circunstância de se ter hipertensão arterial, mostrando a presença de várias racionalidades, apreciações e valorações práticas dos comportamentos de saúde e doença e do próprio corpo. Para os doentes hipertensos entrevistados, a hipertensão arterial não é encarada como uma “verdadeira doença”, sendo vista sobretudo como resultado do envelhecimento e dos excessos que se acumularam no corpo, consequentes da própria vida. Nas narrativas de experiência de doença, os conceitos de moderação e equilíbrio, “ter cuidado”, parecem servir de mecanismo de operacionalização entre aquilo que são as recomendações médicas e as práticas individuais. Constatam-se as capacidades dos doentes hipertensos construírem para si formas de gestão da doença e do medo, sendo que os seus comportamentos podem passar por assumir o controlo dos fatores de risco ou ignorá-los. Em qualquer dos casos, as representações e ações relativas à hipertensão e às recomendações médicas a ela associadas integram-se nas práticas quotidianas dos doentes, ajustando-se a hábitos e representações instaladas, constituindo-se em modos distintos de agir dos doentes hipertensos.

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Based on the report for the unit “Sociology of New Information Technologies” of the Master on Computer Sciences at FCT/University Nova Lisbon in 2015-16. The responsible of this curricular unit is Prof. António Moniz