43 resultados para Artefacts for fashion


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Number, dimension, geometric constructions, and the relationship between dimensions, proportion, are expressions of harmony and rhythm and considered a source of beauty in the things of nature, like crystals, plants, and animals, but also in human artefacts, as buildings and art in general. This is an old idea, which corresponds to the Pythagorean notion that the world is a harmonious mathematical creation and that in order to attend such harmony, the things we do have to obey the same mathematical laws. Proportion (dis)Harmonies and Identities, aims to promote awareness and reflection on the importance of this issue with the dissemination of researches of various fields of knowledge.

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Few studies have been conducted on causal antecedents for electronic loyalty regarding the online fashion industry. In Portugal there is no systematic empirical research in this area. This study aims to examine e-satisfaction and e-trust that potentially impact eloyalty. It also examines the impact of price, website design and selection of brands. A research study was performed at GIRISSIMA.COM and survey responses were 77. The findings show that e-satisfaction is the main driver of e-loyalty. E-trust, website design and price affect positively e-loyalty. Additionally, selection of brands was proved to impact e-loyalty through e-satisfaction and e-trust.

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The former occurrence of the North Atlantic right whale Eubalaena glacialis on the Portuguese coast may be inferred from the historical range of that species in Europe and in NW Africa. It is generally accepted that it was the main prey of coastal whaling in the Middle Ages and in the pre-modern period, but this assumption still needs firming up based on biological and archaeological evidence. We describe the skeletal remains of right whales excavated at Peniche in 2001-2002, in association with archaeological artefacts. The whale bones were covered by sandy sediments on the old seashore and they have been tentatively dated around the 16th to 17th centuries. This study contributes material evidence to the former occurrence of E. glacialis in Portugal (West Iberia). Some whale bones show unequivocal man-made scars. These are associated to wounds from instruments with a sharp-cutting blade. This evidence for past human interaction may suggest that whaling for that species was active at Peniche around the early 17th century.

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This research addresses the problem of creating interactive experiences to encourage people to explore spaces. Besides the obvious spaces to visit, such as museums or art galleries, spaces that people visit can be, for example, a supermarket or a restaurant. As technology evolves, people become more demanding in the way they use it and expect better forms of interaction with the space that surrounds them. Interaction with the space allows information to be transmitted to the visitors in a friendly way, leading visitors to explore it and gain knowledge. Systems to provide better experiences while exploring spaces demand hardware and software that is not in the reach of every space owner either because of the cost or inconvenience of the installation, that can damage artefacts or the space environment. We propose a system adaptable to the spaces, that uses a video camera network and a wi-fi network present at the space (or that can be installed) to provide means to support interactive experiences using the visitor’s mobile device. The system is composed of an infrastructure (called vuSpot), a language grammar used to describe interactions at a space (called XploreDescription), a visual tool used to design interactive experiences (called XploreBuilder) and a tool used to create interactive experiences (called urSpace). By using XploreBuilder, a tool built of top of vuSpot, a user with little or no experience in programming can define a space and design interactive experiences. This tool generates a description of the space and of the interactions at that space (that complies with the XploreDescription grammar). These descriptions can be given to urSpace, another tool built of top of vuSpot, that creates the interactive experience application. With this system we explore new forms of interaction and use mobile devices and pico projectors to deliver additional information to the users leading to the creation of interactive experiences. The several components are presented as well as the results of the respective user tests, which were positive. The design and implementation becomes cheaper, faster, more flexible and, since it does not depend on the knowledge of a programming language, accessible for the general public.

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Objects matter when professionals collaborate to create new products. Chapter 1 explains the intention of this work, to apply theories on objects in the empirical context of fashion design. Chapter 2 addresses the question of how creative professionals learn about and use strategy tools to turn their artistic fame into a commercial success. For Chapter 3 I collected ethnographic data on the development of a seasonal collection from the idea to the presentation at Fashion Week. The result is a deep insight into the collaborative processes and material objects used when a stable team of designers works with several outside experts. Chapter 4 applies the knowledge of the role of objects in fashion design gained during the ethnography in the context of online co-creation and crowd sourced fashion items. The synthesis of the empirical studies allows me to present the conceptual leap in Chapter 5. In the theoretical essay I review the findings on the role of objects in collaborations in relation to practice theory, present the new concept of the comprehensive object and conclude by stating the possibilities for future research.

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Economics is a social science which, therefore, focuses on people and on the decisions they make, be it in an individual context, or in group situations. It studies human choices, in face of needs to be fulfilled, and a limited amount of resources to fulfill them. For a long time, there was a convergence between the normative and positive views of human behavior, in that the ideal and predicted decisions of agents in economic models were entangled in one single concept. That is, it was assumed that the best that could be done in each situation was exactly the choice that would prevail. Or, at least, that the facts that economics needed to explain could be understood in the light of models in which individual agents act as if they are able to make ideal decisions. However, in the last decades, the complexity of the environment in which economic decisions are made and the limits on the ability of agents to deal with it have been recognized, and incorporated into models of decision making in what came to be known as the bounded rationality paradigm. This was triggered by the incapacity of the unboundedly rationality paradigm to explain observed phenomena and behavior. This thesis contributes to the literature in three different ways. Chapter 1 is a survey on bounded rationality, which gathers and organizes the contributions to the field since Simon (1955) first recognized the necessity to account for the limits on human rationality. The focus of the survey is on theoretical work rather than the experimental literature which presents evidence of actual behavior that differs from what classic rationality predicts. The general framework is as follows. Given a set of exogenous variables, the economic agent needs to choose an element from the choice set that is avail- able to him, in order to optimize the expected value of an objective function (assuming his preferences are representable by such a function). If this problem is too complex for the agent to deal with, one or more of its elements is simplified. Each bounded rationality theory is categorized according to the most relevant element it simplifes. Chapter 2 proposes a novel theory of bounded rationality. Much in the same fashion as Conlisk (1980) and Gabaix (2014), we assume that thinking is costly in the sense that agents have to pay a cost for performing mental operations. In our model, if they choose not to think, such cost is avoided, but they are left with a single alternative, labeled the default choice. We exemplify the idea with a very simple model of consumer choice and identify the concept of isofin curves, i.e., sets of default choices which generate the same utility net of thinking cost. Then, we apply the idea to a linear symmetric Cournot duopoly, in which the default choice can be interpreted as the most natural quantity to be produced in the market. We find that, as the thinking cost increases, the number of firms thinking in equilibrium decreases. More interestingly, for intermediate levels of thinking cost, an equilibrium in which one of the firms chooses the default quantity and the other best responds to it exists, generating asymmetric choices in a symmetric model. Our model is able to explain well-known regularities identified in the Cournot experimental literature, such as the adoption of different strategies by players (Huck et al. , 1999), the inter temporal rigidity of choices (Bosch-Dom enech & Vriend, 2003) and the dispersion of quantities in the context of di cult decision making (Bosch-Dom enech & Vriend, 2003). Chapter 3 applies a model of bounded rationality in a game-theoretic set- ting to the well-known turnout paradox in large elections, pivotal probabilities vanish very quickly and no one should vote, in sharp contrast with the ob- served high levels of turnout. Inspired by the concept of rhizomatic thinking, introduced by Bravo-Furtado & Côrte-Real (2009a), we assume that each per- son is self-delusional in the sense that, when making a decision, she believes that a fraction of the people who support the same party decides alike, even if no communication is established between them. This kind of belief simplifies the decision of the agent, as it reduces the number of players he believes to be playing against { it is thus a bounded rationality approach. Studying a two-party first-past-the-post election with a continuum of self-delusional agents, we show that the turnout rate is positive in all the possible equilibria, and that it can be as high as 100%. The game displays multiple equilibria, at least one of which entails a victory of the bigger party. The smaller one may also win, provided its relative size is not too small; more self-delusional voters in the minority party decreases this threshold size. Our model is able to explain some empirical facts, such as the possibility that a close election leads to low turnout (Geys, 2006), a lower margin of victory when turnout is higher (Geys, 2006) and high turnout rates favoring the minority (Bernhagen & Marsh, 1997).

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A presente tese enfrenta o tema do documentário e da ficção no cinema de etnoficção português pondo ao centro deste binómio o vestuário como fenómeno, ora votado a explicitar a verosimilhança das sequencias, ora ferramenta para criar uma simulação da realidade. Tratamos o termo etnoficção como se fosse um género cinematográfico e escolhemos, como exemplo de analise, 3 trilogias do cinema português. Tratamos o vestuário de acordo com os novos conceitos do corpo revestido que veem da Fashion Theory e nossas bases teóricas serão Simmel e Bogatyrev, Barthes e Calefato, entre outros. Analisar o vestuário de filmes por género ajuda por um lado na criação de uma primeira definição de todo este tipo de vestuário e por outro a compreender a sua importância dentro de uma obra fílmica. As partes teóricas sobre Fashion Theory e sobre o conceito de etno-ficção serão depois aplicadas aos filmes escolhidos, tentando ampliar os conhecimentos através da introdução de outros autores que se debruçaram sobre os dois assuntos, ao fim de unificar os dois conceitos, do corpo revestido e da etno-ficção, num só, de vestuário cinematográfico. Filmes analisados. Trilogia do Mar, de Leitão de Barros: Nazaré, praia de pescadores (1927), Maria do Mar (1929), Ala arriba! (1942); Trilogia de Trás-os-Montes, de António Reis e Margarina Cordeiro: Trás-os-Montes (1976), Ana (1984), Rosa de areia (1989); Trilogia das Fontainhas, de Pedro Costa: Ossos (1997), O quarto da Vanda (2000), Juventude em marcha (2006).

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RESUMO - A qualidade dos cuidados de saúde, evolui ao longo dos tempos e é agora considerada um direito e um pilar fundamental nos serviços de saúde. As reclamações dos utentes podem revelar informação acerca das experiências entre os utentes e as organizações de saúde. Desta forma as reclamações podem ser consideradas como indicadores de qualidade que permitem identificar áreas e/ou oportunidades de melhoria, e de grande representatividade no processo da melhoria contínua da qualidade na saúde. Sendo fundamental dar voz aos utentes do SNS e possibilitar a sua participação activa no processo de melhoria da prestação dos cuidados de saúde, com este trabalho pretendeu-se estudar a forma como as reclamações dos utentes nos ACES na Região de Saúde de Lisboa e Vale do Tejo, contribuem para a melhoria da qualidade nos referidos serviços de saúde. Foram reconhecidas e analisadas as principais causas de reclamação, as correspondentes medidas correctivas e as necessidades e/ou dificuldades no seu processo de implementação, bem como a respectiva avaliação dos resultados obtidos e identificação das recomendações dos Coordenadores dos Gabinetes do Utente no âmbito dos ACES da Região de Saúde de LVT. Efectuou-se a análise de revisão bibliográfica e a consulta dos dados, desagregados, das causas mais mencionadas nas reclamações no âmbito do estudo e foram realizados contactos informais com a estrutura regional e nacional do Sistema SIM-Cidadão. Foram aplicados 15 questionários aos Coordenadores Locais dos Gabinetes do Cidadão dos ACES da ARSLVT, apresentando a investigação um carácter exploratório e qualitativo. Os questionários, foram enviados e recebidos anonimamente através da plataforma para estudos estatísticos Survey Monkey. A sua análise e interpretação, foi efectuada de forma a organizar os seus dados de uma forma sistematizada e permitir categorizar a informação para permitir a sua análise. Os resultados evidenciaram que as reclamações dos utentes apresentadas nos Gabinetes do Cidadão, de certa forma, foram um contributo para o processo da melhoria da qualidade nos ACES da Região de Saúde de Lisboa e Vale do Tejo através do adopção de medidas e acções correctivas, ultrapassando algumas limitações devida à criação de estratégias locais. No entanto foi evidente que algumas limitações não foram passiveis de ser ultrapassadas, pois envolvem decisões do âmbito externo aos ACES. Os resultados alcançados e as recomendações dos Coordenadores, podem evidenciar algumas mudanças organizacionais, mas transparecem a ideia de que existe ainda um longo caminho a percorrer.

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Archaeological excavations carried out in the archaeological site of São Pedro (Southern Portugal) revealed a Chalcolithic settlement occupied in different moments of the 3rd millennium BC. The material culture recovered includes different types of materials, such as ceramics, lithics and metals. The later comprises about 30 artefacts with different typologies such as tools (e.g. awls, chisels and a saw) and weapons (e.g. daggers and arrowheads) mostly belonging to the 2nd and 3rd quarter of the 3rd millennium BC. In the present work the collection of chalcolithic metallic artefacts recovered in São Pedro was characterized. Analytical studies involved micro energy dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry (micro-EDXRF) to determine elemental composition, together with optical microscopy and Vickers microhardness testing for microstructural characterisation and hardness determination. Main results show copper with variable amounts of arsenic and very low content of other impurities, such as iron. Moreover, nearly half of the collection is composed by arsenical copper alloys (As > 2 wt.%) and an association was found between arsenic content and typology since the weapons group (mostly daggers) present higher values than tools (mostly awls). These results suggest some criteria in the selection of arsenic-rich copper ores or smelting products. Furthermore, after casting an artefact would have been hammered, annealed and sometimes, finished with a hammering operation. Additionally, microstructural variations in this collection reveal somewhat different operational conditions during casting, annealing and forging, as expected in such a primitive metallurgy. Moreover the operational sequence seems to be used to achieve the required shape to the object, rather than to intentionally make the alloy harder. Overall, this study suggests that Chalcolithic metallurgists might have a poor control of the addition of arsenic and/or were unable to use this element to increase the hardness of tools and weapons. Finally, the compositions, manufacturing processes and hardness were compared to those from neighbouring regions and different chronological periods.

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The excavations of the Dericik Early Christian Basilicas revealed the importance of the surrounding area of Bursa for understanding Early Christianity between the Late Roman and Early Byzantine periods. In the salvage excavations of 2001, the basic plan of the basilica (nave, narthex, presbyterium and apse) was revealed. The most important artefacts uncovered in that year were the mosaic pavements with geometric and plant ornaments and a grave located in the North Eastern corner of the church. The mosaic of the basilica was laid with the opus tessellatum technique on a thick mortar foundation with white, red, yellow, olive green and dark blue tesserae. A refrigerium scene is represented in the middle of the narthex mosaic. The mosaic in the centre of the nave is divided into parts, one of which with figures of birds inside octagons. In the transitional area between the nave and apse, three heavily damaged inscriptions have been conserved each of three or four lines, one of them indicating the wish of Epituchanos, diakôn, a church member.

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The main goals for the current dissertation is to research on how practices and concepts from Agile Project Management can be applied in a non-IT context and to discover which aspects should be considered when deciding if whether an Agile approach should be implemented or not. Previous studies reflect on the adoption for the identified context. However, the recognition of these practices and concepts by the Project Management field of studies still remains unresolved. The adoption of Agile Project Management emerges as a manifestation against traditional approaches, mainly due to their inability of accepting requirements’ changes. Therefore, these practices and concepts can be considered in order to reduce the risks concerning the increase of competition and innovation – which does not apply to the IT sector solely. The current study reviews the literature on Agile Project Management and its adoption across different sectors in order to assess which practices and concepts can be applied on a non-IT context. Nine different methods are reviewed, where two of these show a higher relevance – Scrum and Extreme Programming. The identified practices and concepts can be separated into four different groups: Cultural and Organizational Structures, Process, Practices, and Artefacts. A framework based on the work by Boehm & Turner in 2004 is developed in order to support the decision of adopting agile methods. A survey intended for project managers was carried in order to assess the implementation of the identified practices and concepts and to evaluate which variables have the highest importance on the developed decision support framework. It is concluded that New Product Development is the project type with the highest potential to implement an agile approach and that the Project Final Product’s Innovativeness, Competitiveness, and the Project Member’s Experience and Autonomy are the most important aspects to consider an implementation of an Agile approach.

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It’s impossible to neglect the changes that internet and e-commerce caused in the retail sector, by increasing customers’ expectations and forcing retailers to adapt the business to the new digital era. Internet is characterized by the increase in accessibility to everyone, which can be good or not so. For instance, luxury products rely on the sense of exclusivity, instead of being accessible to everyone. Hence, internet represents a challenge for luxury brands once, although they are able to provide a fullness service to their customers, they need to maintain the exclusiveness in which luxury is sustained. Consequently, the appearance of omni-channel was more than a challenge for the luxury sector, in particular, given the need to provide a full integrated experience through different channels. The aim of this dissertation is to find out how important is omni-channel, even in the luxury industry, and how it’s actually implemented based on the case of one of the most successful companies on luxury fashion e-commerce industry – Farfetch. Even though the company started in London, its founder is a Portuguese entrepreneur, and it’s in Portugal where most of its employees work, divided in two offices – Guimarães e Porto. Therefore, a literature review was written on relevant concepts and ideas about luxury, e-commerce and the different channels’ approaches. There were formulated five propositions that were after discussed according to the information gathered about the company and its strategies. In the end, it was possible to identify which propositions are in accordance with theory and which are not, as well as understand which are the most important strategies and trends about omni-channel in the luxury fashion e-commerce sector.

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A presente dissertação teve como finalidade estudar os testemunhos arqueológicos respeitantes às práticas funerárias levadas a cabo no atual concelho de Cascais durante os séculos VI e VII. As necrópoles em estudo são sítios bem conhecidos pelos investigadores, uma vez que a descoberta de algumas é precoce, datando de finais do século XIX. Com este trabalho, pretendeu-se introduzir uma série de componentes que a investigação privilegia atualmente, sobretudo no que respeita às vivências nos espaços rurais entre o fim do Império Romano e o domínio muçulmano na Península Ibérica. A investigação desenvolvida baseou-se no estudo preliminar das coleções osteológicas de quatro das cinco necrópoles, bem como na prospeção e no levantamento arqueológicos. O inventário antropológico teve como objetivo apurar o número mínimo de indivíduos por necrópole e por sepultura e fazer uma caracterização básica do sexo e da idade dos inumados. A prospeção assentou na análise das fontes bibliográficas sobre os sítios. Os trabalhos de campo desenvolveram-se no sentido de apurar o estado de conservação dos vestígios, na eventual identificação de outros novos e no consequente levantamento gráfico e fotográfico dos mesmos. Foi igualmente examinado o espólio cerâmico e metálico recolhido aquando da escavação das necrópoles, de modo obter uma visão abrangente sobre os rituais funerários e a estabelecer cronologias mais precisas. Embora se trate de um estudo limitado devido à inexistência de um registo mais rigoroso dos vestígios, foi possível tirar algumas conclusões e constatar alguns padrões. Os resultados possibilitaram apontar um conjunto de condições que se repetem nos locais onde estes cemitérios se implantam, percebendo dinâmicas em relação a fatores de caráter natural e de carácter antrópico. Também se apurou que existiriam diferentes formas de organizar os espaços funerários e que estes seriam constituídos por sepulturas muito diversas do ponto de vista construtivo. Além disso, começa-se a desvelar as razões para a reutilização de sepulturas para vários enterramentos e a entender a forma como as comunidades rurais conduziam os rituais funerários, ainda muito enraizados numa antiga matriz pagã.