O poder e a moda vestimentar

Nas mutações da moda, sendo também Influenciadas por acontecimentos políticos e espirituais, é a acção condicionante de certos indivíduos que é determinante. Limitando-se ao campo do vestuário, investigação das interferências, proporcionais à força dos regimes, do poder sobre a moda, tanto pela lei como pelo exemplo; desde a corte do Duque de Borgonha às legislações sumptuárias e ao caso paradigmático de Luís XIV, até à China de Mao, referindo casos da sociedade portuguesa. ABSTRACT - Mutations in fashion are influenced by the action of certain people. The research is limited to the field of clothing, the connections between power and fashion, both by law and by example, from the court of the Duke of Burgundy to the laws that restraint luxury, and the paradigmatic study cases of Louis XIV and the China under the rule of Mao Tse Tung. Some cases of the Portuguese society are also referred.

Femtosecond laser ablation of dentin

The surface morphology, structure and composition of human dentin treated with a femtosecond infrared laser (pulse duration 500 fs, wavelength 1030 nm, fluences ranging from 1 to 3 J cm(-2)) was studied by scanning electron microscopy, x-ray diffraction, x-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The average dentin ablation threshold under these conditions was 0.6 +/- 0.2 J cm(-2) and the ablation rate achieved in the range 1 to 2 mu m/pulse for an average fluence of 3 J cm(-2). The ablation surfaces present an irregular and rugged appearance, with no significant traces of melting, deformation, cracking or carbonization. The smear layer was entirely removed by the laser treatment. For fluences only slightly higher than the ablation threshold the morphology of the laser-treated surfaces was very similar to the dentin fracture surfaces and the dentinal tubules remained open. For higher fluences, the surface was more porous and the dentin structure was partially concealed by ablation debris and a few resolidified droplets. Independently on the laser processing parameters and laser processing method used no sub-superficial cracking was observed. The dentin constitution and chemical composition was not significantly modified by the laser treatment in the processing parameter range used. In particular, the organic matter is not preferentially removed from the surface and no traces of high temperature phosphates, such as the beta-tricalcium phosphate, were observed. The achieved results are compatible with an electrostatic ablation mechanism. In conclusion, the high beam quality and short pulse duration of the ultrafast laser used should allow the accurate preparation of cavities, with negligible damage of the underlying material.

General Ribeiro Arthur militar e artista

Ribeiro Arthur foi militar, crítico de Arte e foi sobretudo um dos mais importantes investigadores e ilustradores da história dos uniformes em Portugal. Produziu um número muito significativo de aguarelas dedicadas a este tema que, reunidas em colecção, estão preservadas no Arquivo Histórico Militar. ABSTRACT - Artur Ribeiro Arthur was military, art critic and was one of the most important researchers and illustrators in the history of the uniforms in Portugal. He produced a significant number of watercolors dedicated to this theme, gathered in collections that are kept in the Military Historical Archive.