Biophysical techniques used to evaluate the stratum corneum

Assortments of biophysical methods are used to the study the stratum corneum morphology and dynamic with the objective to elucidate the correlation between its structure and functions. Among these methods, there are: X-ray diffraction, electron paramagnetic resonance, differential scanning calorimetry, Raman spectroscopy with Fourrier transform, infrared spectroscopy and photoacustic spectroscopy. In this manuscript, methods are presented and discussed in relation to the use indication, interpretation of results and advantages and limitations to the stratum corneum analysis.

Study of sunless tanning formulas using molted snake skin as an alternative membrane model

Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment provided by these formulasis designed to resemble a UV-induced tan. This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N-acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter (R) MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N-acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30 mg cm(-2) of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0 cm x 3.0 cm). A Mexameter (R) MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T(0) (before the application) and after 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 and 216 h. The moulted snake skins can be used as an alternative membrane model for in vitro sunless tanning efficacy tests due to their similarity to the human stratum corneum. The DHA concentration was found to influence the initiation of the pigmentation in both sunless tanning systems (emulsion and gel) as well as the time required to increases by a given amount on the tanning index. In the emulsion system, the DHA concentration also influenced the final value on the tanning index. The type of system (emulsion or gel) has no influence on the final value in the tanning index after 216 h for samples with the same DHA concentration.

Stability and in vitro penetration study of rutin incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion through an alternative model biomembrane

Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation or rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/ retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 +/- 0.0391 mu g rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 +/- 2.0 degrees C, 5.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C and 45.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days.

In vitro safety assessment of papain on human skin: A qualitative Light and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) study

Papain is a thiol proteolytic enzyme widely used in dermatology that found applications in wound treatment. Recently, papain was also used as absorption enhancer which can modify the peptide/ protein material in the bilayer domain. We investigated papain safety using human skin that was exposed to papain in vitro at different times: 4, 24 and 48 hours. The samples were examined using Light and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) to study of the mechanisms involved in enhancer-skin interaction. After 24 hours, changes occurred in corneosomes. However, samples of 48 hours did not show major changes in agreement with the control. These findings indicated that papain could be used safely onto the skin.

In Vitro Ultrasound Influence on Cutaneous Permeation of Hyaluronidase

In vitro skin permeation of hyaluronidase enzyme and the ultrasound (US) effects on cutaneous permeation of this enzyme were investigated. Diffusion cell technique, porcine skins, buffer solution, and a hydrophilic gel+hyaluronidase (100 TUR/g), were used for study. The experimental groups were: gel+enzyme and gel+enzyme+US. The activity of permeated hyaluronidase was determined by turbydimetric method in spectrophotometer at 400nm. Gel+enzyme group permitted a diffusion of 26.89 +/- 3.82 TUR of hyaluronidase in the total time of 240 minutes. However, the other group did not produce significant differences (p0.05) in the same period (13.68 +/- 5.35 TUR). Hyaluronidase permeation through the skin was verified; however US did not cause increase of this enzyme permeation.

Nitric oxide photorelease from hydrogels and from skin containing a nitro-ruthenium complex

Nitric oxide (NO) is a gaseous molecule that has specific functions dictated by its localization and its kinetics of release. As NO-donors have a range of potential uses in the skin, much attention has been paid to the development of topical NO delivery systems. The aim of this work was to study the release rate and the skin penetration of the NO-donor cis[Ru(NO(2))(bpy)(2)(4-pic)](+) from different gel formulations and their potential as topical NO delivery systems under light stimuli. Among the formulations developed, the anionic gel retarded the nitro-ruthenium complex diffusion and also obstructed NO release after light irradiation. On the other hand, NO release before light irradiation was observed when the complex was dispersed in the cationic chitosan gel, possibly due to oxi-redox reactions between the amino groups of the polymer and the drug molecule. Finally, the non-ionic gel released the NO after light irradiation to the same extent as a drug aqueous solution at the same pH. The drug dispersed in this gel also penetrated into the stratum corneum skin layer, and the nitro-ruthenium complex present in the skin was able to release the NO after light stimuli, suggesting the potential use of this formulation as a topical NO delivery system. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Preparation and characterization of chitosan-treated alginate microparticles incorporating all-trans retinoic acid

Chitosan treated alginate microparticles were prepared with the purpose of incorporating all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA) using an inexpensive, simple and fast method, enhancing dermal localization and sustaining the release of ATRA into the skin. Microparticles characterization, drug-polymer interaction, release profile and in vitro skin retention were investigated. Microparticles presented spherical shape and drug loading capacity of 47%. The drug content of these microparticles was affected by ATRA concentration and by the solvent used and it was more weakly affected by chitosan concentration. The release of ATRA was also affected by chitosan concentration. Microparticles prepared with 0.4% chitosan (w/w) resulted in drug release with a more sustained profile. The results of in vitro retention studies showed that chitosan treated alginate microparticles decreased the drug retention in the stratum corneum (SC), where occur the skin irritation, but maintained the ATRA concentration in the deeper skin layers, where occur the pathologies treated with ATRA. Then, the microparticles developed in this work can be a good candidate to improve the topical therapy with retinoid.

Skin Penetration of Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate and Quercetin from Green Tea and Ginkgo biloba Extracts Vehiculated in Cosmetic Formulations

Green tea (Camellia sinensis) and Ginkgo biloba extracts in cosmetic formulations have been suggested to protect the skin against UV-induced damage and skin ageing. Thus, it is very important to assess the human skin penetration of their major flavonoids to verify if they penetrate and remain in the skin to exert their proposed effects. The aim of this study was to evaluate the human skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations. This study was conducted with fresh dermatomed human Caucasian skin from abdominal surgery mounted on static Franz diffusion cells. Skin samples were mounted between two diffusion half-cells and 10 mg/cm(2) of formulations supplemented with 6% of green tea or G. biloba extract were applied on the skin surface. The receptor fluid was removed after 6 and 24 h and analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography for the quantification of the flavonoids. The stratum corneum was removed by tape stripping and immersed in methanol and the epidermis was mechanically separated from the dermis and triturated in methanol to extract EGCG and quercetin. The results showed that the flavonoids under study penetrated into the skin, without reaching the receptor fluid. The majority of EGCG was quantified in the stratum corneum (0.87 mu g/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentrations found in viable epidermis (0.54 mu g/cm(2)) and in the dermis (0.38 mu g/cm(2)). The majority of quercetin was quantified in the viable epidermis (0.23 mu g/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentration found in the stratum corneum layer (0.17 mu g/cm(2)). Finally, it can be concluded that EGCG and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations presented good skin penetration and retention, which can favor their skin effects. Copyright (C) 2009 S. Karger AG, Basel

Development and validation of HPLC method for imiquimod determination in skin penetration studies

A simple, rapid and sensitive analytical procedure for the measurement of imiquimod in skin samples after in vitro penetration studies has been developed and validated. In vitro penetration studies were carried out in Franz diffusion cells with porcine skin. Tape stripping technique was used to separate the stratum corneum (SC) from the viable epidermis and dermis. Imiquimod was extracted from skin samples using a 7:3 (v/v) methanol:acetate buffer (100 mm, pH 4.0) solution and ultrasonication. Imiquimod was analyzed by H-PLC using C(8) column and UV detection at 242 ran. The mobile phase used was acetonitrile:acetate buffer (pH 4.0, 100 mM):diethylamine (30:69.85:0.15, v/v) with flow rate 1 mL/min. Imiquimod eluted at 4.1 min and the running time was limited to 6.0 min. The procedure was linear across the following concentration ranges: 100-2500 ng/mL for both SC and tape-stripped skin and 20-800 ng/mL for receptor solution. Intra-day and inter-day accuracy and precision values were lower than 20% at the limit of quantitation. The recovery values ranged from 80 to 100%. The method is adequate to assay imiquimod from skin samples, enabling the determination of the cutaneous penetration profile of uniquimod by in vitro studies. Copyright (C) 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Quercetin in w/o microemulsion: In vitro and in vivo skin penetration and efficacy against UVB-induced skin damages evaluated in vivo

The present study evaluated the potential of a w/o microemulsion as a topical carrier system for delivery of the antioxidant quercetin. Topical and transdermal delivery of quercetin were evaluated in vitro Using porcine car skin mounted on a Franz diffusion cell and in vivo on hairless-skin mice. Skin irritation by topical application of the microemulsion containing quercetin, and the protective effect of the formulation on UVB-induced decrease of endogenous reduced glutathione levels and increase of cutaneous proteinase secretion/activity were also investigated. The w/o microemulsion increased the penetration of quercetin into the stratum corneum and epidermis plus dermis at 3, 6. 9 and 12 h post-application in vitro and in vivo at 6 h post-application. No transdermal delivery of quercetin Occurred. By evaluating established endpoints of skin irritation (erythema formation, epidermis thickening and infiltration of inflammatory cells), the Study demonstrated that the daily application of the w/o microemulsion for up to 2 days did not cause skin irritation. W/o microemulsion containing quercetin significantly prevented the UVB irradiation-induced GSH depletion and secretion/activity of metalloproteinases. (C) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo efficacy of topical formulations containing vitamin C and its derivatives studied by non-invasive methods

Background/purpose: Vitamins C and its derivatives, mainly due to their antioxidant properties, are being used in cosmetic products to protect and to reduce the signs of ageing. However, there are no studies comparing the effects of vitamin C [ascorbic acid (AA)] and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (ATIP), when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of AA and its derivatives, MAP and ATIP, as well as their in vivo efficacy on human skin, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Methods: The study of antioxidant activity in vitro was performed with an aqueous and a lipid system. The in vivo methodology consisted of the application of these formulations on human volunteers` forearm skin and the analysis of the skin conditions after 4-week period daily applications in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum moisture content and viscoelasticity using a Tewameter (R), Corneometer (R) and Cutometer (R), respectively. Results: In vitro experiments demonstrated that in an aqueous system, AA had the best antioxidant potential, and MAP was more effective than ATIP, whereas in the lipid system ATIP was more effective than MAP. In in vivo studies, all formulations enhanced stratum corneum moisture content after a 4-week period daily applications when compared with baseline values; however, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values. The formulations containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio, which suggested its action in the deeper layers of the skin. Conclusion: AA and its derivates presented an in vitro antioxidant activity but AA had the best antioxidant effect. In in vivo efficacy studies, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values and the formulation containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio. This way, vitamin C derivatives did not present the same effects of AA on human skin; however, MAP showed other significant effect-improving skin hydration, which is very important for the normal cutaneous metabolism and also to prevent skin alterations and early ageing.

In vitro studies of cutaneous retention of magnetic nanoemulsion loaded with zinc phthalocyanine for synergic use in skin cancer treatment

In this study was developed a new nano drug delivery system (NDDS) based on association of biodegradable surfactants with biocompatible magnetic fluid of maguemita citrate derivative. This formulation consists in a magnetic emulsion with nanostructured colloidal particles. Preliminary in vitro experiments showed that the formulation presents a great potential for synergic application in the topical release of photosensitizer drug (PS) and excellent target tissue properties in the photodynamic therapy (PDT) combined with hyperthermia (HPT) protocols. The physical chemistry characterization and in vitro assays were carried out by Zn(II) Phtalocyanine (ZnPc) photosensitizer incorporated into NDDS in the absence and the presence of magnetic fluid, showed good results and high biocompatibility. In vitro experiments were accomplished by tape-stripping protocols for quanti. cation of drug association with different skin tissue layers. This technique is a classical method for analyses of drug release in stratum corneum and epidermis+ dermis skin layers. The NDDS formulations were applied directly in pig skin (tissue model) fixed in the cell`s Franz device with receptor medium container with a PBS/EtOH 20% solution (10mM, pH 7.4) at 37 degrees C. After 12 h of topical administration stratum corneum was removed from fifty tapes and the ZnPc retained was evaluated by solvent extraction in dimetil-sulphoxide under ultrasonic bath. These results indicated that magnetic nanoemulsion (MNE) increase the drug release on the deeper skin layers when compared with classical formulation in the absence of magnetic particles. This could be related with the increase of biocompatibility of NDDS due to the great affinity for the polar extracelullar matrix in the skin and also for the increase in the drug partition inside of corneocites wall. (C) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Enhanced skin penetration of P20 phosphopeptide using protein transduction domains

Protein transduction domains (PTDs) were recently demonstrated to increase the penetration of the model peptide P20 when the PTD and P20 were covalently attached. Here, we evaluated whether non-covalently linked PTDs were capable of increasing the skin penetration of P20. Two different PTDs were studied: YARA and WLR. Porcine ear skin mounted in a Franz diffusion cell was used to assess the penetration of P20 in the stratum corneum (SC) and viable skin (VS); VS consists of dermis and epidermis without SC. The transdermal delivery of P20 was also assessed. At 1 mM, YARA promoted a 2.33-fold increase in the retention of P20 in the SC but did not significantly increase the amount of P20 that reached VS. WLR significantly increased (2.88-fold) the penetration of P20 in VS. Compared to the non-attached form, the covalently linked WLR fragment was two times more effective in promoting the penetration of P20 into VS. None of the PTDs promoted transdermal delivery of P20 at 4 h post-application. It was concluded that selected non-covalently linked PTDs can be used as a penetration enhancer, but greater skin penetration efficiency can be achieved by covalently binding the PTD to the therapeutic agent. (c) 2007 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Photophysical studies and in vitro skin permeation/retention of Foscan (R)/nanoemulsion (NE) applicable to photodynamic therapy skin cancer treatment.

In this work we evaluated the photophysical and in vitro properties of Foscan (R), a second-generation photosensitizer drug (PS) widely used in systemic clinical protocols for cancer therapy based on Photodynamic Therapy (PDT). We employed biodegradable nanoemulsions (NE) as a colloidal vehicle of the oil/water (o/w) type focusing in topical administration of Foscan (R) and other photosensitizer drugs. This formulation was obtained and stabilized by the methodology described by Tabosa do Egito et al.,(30) based on the mixture of two phases: an aqueous solution and an organic medium consisting of nonionic surfactants and oil. The photodynamic potential of the drug incorporated into the NE was studied by steady-state and time-resolved spectroscopic techniques. We also analyzed the in vitro biological behavior carried out in mimetic biological environment protocols based on the animal model. After topical application in a skin animal model, we evaluated the Foscan (R)/NE diffusion flux into the skin layers (stratum corneum and epidermis + dermis) by classical procedures using Franz Diffusion cells. Our results showed that the photophysical properties of PS were maintained after its incorporation into the NE when compared with homogeneous organic medium. The in vitro assays enabled the determination of an adequate profile for the interaction of this system in the different skin layers, with an ideal time lag of 6 h after topical administration in the skin model. The Foscan (R) diffusion flux (J) was increased when this PS was incorporated into the NE, if compared with its flux in physiological medium. These parameters demonstrated that the NE can be potentially applied as a drug delivery system (DDS) for Foscan (R) in both in vitro and in vivo assays, as well as in future clinical applications involving topical skin cancer PDT.

The influence of positive or negative charges in the passive and iontophoretic skin penetration of porphyrins used in photodynamic therapy

Meso-tetra-(N-methylpiridinium-4-yl)-porphyrin (TMPyP) and meso-tetra-(4-sulfonatophenyl)-porphyrin (TPPS(4)) are photosensitizing drugs (PS) used in photodynamic therapy (PDT). Based on the fact that these compounds present similar chemical structures but opposite charges at pH levels near physiological conditions, this work aims to evaluate the in vitro and in vivo influence of these electrical charges on the iontophoretic delivery of TMPyP and TPPS4, attempting to achieve maximum accumulation of PS in skin tissue. The iontophoretic transport of these drugs from a hydrophilic gel was investigated in vitro using porcine ear skin and vertical, flow-through diffusion cells. In vivo experiments using rats were also carried out, and the penetration of the PSs was analyzed by fluorescence microscopy to visualize the manner of how these compounds were distributed in the skin after a short period of iontophoresis application. In vitro, both passive and iontophoretic delivery of the positively charged TMPyP were much greater (20-fold and 67-fold, respectively) than those of the negatively charged TPPS(4). TPPS(4) iontophoresis in vivo increased the fluorescence of the skin only in the very superficial layers. On the other hand, iontophoresis of the positively charged drug expressively increased the rat epidermis and dermis fluorescence, indicating high amounts of this drug throughout the skin layers. Moreover, TMPyP was homogeneously distributed around and into the nuclei of the skin cells, suggesting its potential use in topical PDT. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.