In Vitro Sun Protection Factor Evaluation of Sunscreens Containing Rutin and its Derivative

This research aimed at determining spectrophotometrically (290 to 320nm) the in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreens developed with rutin (R) or succinate rutin (SR), in association or not with UVB filter. Formulations were developed based on phosphate-base O/W emulsions, with (B) or not (A) the presence of polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7 (PIL), in accordance with the following associations: (a) control; (b) 1.0 % SR; (c) 0.1 % R; (d) 7.5 % ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC); (e) 7.5 % EHMC + 0.1 % RS; (0 7.5 % EHMC + 0.1 % R. It was verified a statistical significative elevation of the SPF from 13.93 +/- 0.02 (Af) to 16.63 +/- 0.27 (Bf) and also in relation to 15.53 +/- 0.14 (Bd). According to the results, the EHMC had distinct behavior depending on the presence of bioactive substance and viscosity agent, thus, rutin obtained better profile as a SPF booster in these experimental conditions with the presence of PIL.

Broad spectrum bioactive sunscreens

The development of sunscreens containing reduced concentration of chemical UV filters, even though, possessing broad spectrum effectiveness with the use of natural raw materials that improve and infer UV absorption is of great interest. Due to the structural similarities between polyphenolic compounds and organic UV filters, they might exert photoprotection activity. The objective of the present research work was to develop bioactive sunscreen delivery systems containing rutin, Passiflora incarnata L. and Plantago lanceolata extracts associated or not with organic and inorganic UV filters. UV transmission of the sunscreen delivery system films was performed by using diffuse transmittance measurements coupling to an integrating sphere. In vitro photoprotection efficacy was evaluated according to the following parameters: estimated sun protection factor (SPF); Boot`s Star Rating category; UVA/UVB ratio; and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). Sunscreen delivery systems obtained SPF values ranging from 0.972 +/- 0.004 to 28.064 +/- 2.429 and bioactive compounds interacted with the UV filters positive and negatively. This behavior may be attributed to: the composition of the delivery system: the presence of inorganic UV filter and quantitative composition of the organic UV filters; and the phytochemical composition of the P. incarnate L and P. lanceolato extracts. Among all associations of bioactive compounds and UV filters, we found that the broad spectrum sunscreen was accomplished when 1.68% (w/w) P incarnata L. dry extract was in the presence of 7.0% (w/w) ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2.0% (w/w) benzophenone-3 and 2.0% (w/w) TiO(2). It was demonstrated that this association generated estimated SPF of 20.072 +/- 0.906 and it has improved the protective defense against UVA radiation accompanying augmentation of the UVA/UVB ratio from 0.49 to 0.52 and lambda(c) from 364 to 368.6 nm. (c) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

The influence of the amount of sunscreen applied and its sun protection factor (SPF): evaluation of two sunscreens including the same ingredients at different concentrations

Background To estimate labeled sun protection factor (SPF) for sunscreen, the amount of product applied on volunteers, according to food and drug administration (FDA) and International protocols, is 2 mg/cm(2). However, different studies have shown that consumers actually apply much less product when exposed to the sun. Previous studies have reported contradictory findings in an attempt to correlate the amount applied in relation to SPF. The objective of the present study was to estimate the influence of the quantity of sunscreen applied in the determination of SPF, according to the FDA methodology. Subjects and methods Forty volunteers were included in two groups (SPF 15 and 30). The selected sunscreen was then applied in four different quantities (2, 1.5, 1.0 and 0.5 mg/cm(2)). All areas were irradiated with a solar simulator. After 24 h, the minimal erythemal dose (MED) and SPF were determined. Results In both groups, we observed that the SPF decreased when the amount of sunscreen applied was decreased. The differences between the 2 mg/cm(2) area and the others were significant in both groups (P < 0.001). The correlation between specified SPF and applied amount grew exponentially. Conclusion The protection provided by sunscreen is related to the amount of product applied. It is essential to educate consumers to apply larger amounts of sunscreen for adequate photoprotection.

Evaluation of Protective Effect of a Water-In-Oil Microemulsion Incorporating Quercetin Against UVB-Induced Damage in Hairless Mice Skin

Purpose. Histological aspects were considered in order to evaluate the in vivo photoprotective effect of a w/o microemulsion containing quercetin against UVB irradiation-induced dermal damages. The toxicity in cell culture and the potential skin irritation resulting from topical application of this formulation were investigated. Methods. Mouse dorsal surfaces were treated topically with 300 mg of the unloaded and quercetin-loaded (0.3%, w/w) microemulsions before and after exposure to UVB (2.87 J/cm(2)) irradiation. The untreated control groups irradiated and non-irradiated were also evaluated. UVB-induced histopathological changes as well as the photoprotective effect of this formulation were evaluated considering the parameters of infiltration of inflammatory cells, epidermis thickening (basale and spinosum layers) and collagen and elastic fiber contents. The cytotoxicity of the reported formulation was evaluated in L929 mice fibroblasts by MTT assay and the skin irritation was investigated after topical application of both unloaded and quercetin-loaded microemulsions once a day for 15 days. Results. The results demonstrated that the w/o microemulsion containing quercetin reduced the incidence of histological skin alterations, mainly the connective-tissue damage, induced by exposure to UVB irradiation. This suggests that protective effects of this formulation against UV-induced responses are not secondary to the interference of UV transmission (i.e., blocking the UVB radiation from being absorbed by the skin), as is usually implied with UVB absorbers and sunscreens, but is instead due to different biological effects of this flavonoid. Furthermore, by evaluating the cytotoxic effect on L929 cells and histological aspects such as infiltration of inflammatory cells and epidermis thickness of hairless mice, the present study also demonstrated the lack of toxicity of the proposed system. Conclusion. Based on these mice models, a detailed characterization of the w/o microemulsion incorporating quercetin effects as a photochemoprotective agent on human skin is presented.

Chlorogenic Acid UVA-UVB Photostability

Chlorogenic acid is a natural potent antioxidant. It can be used in cosmetics formulations, but for this purpose its photochemical stability should be determined to ensure that the compound will not be degraded after UV radiation exposure. To evaluate this possibility, the concentration of a chlorogenic acid solution was determined by HPLC before and after UVA and UVB irradiation. The results indicate that chlorogenic acid is not degraded under UVA or UVB irradiation.

Rutin association with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone-3: In vitro evaluation of the photoprotection effectiveness by reflectance spectrophotometry

There is a world tendency to the development of sunscreens possessing reduced concentration of UV filters and, yet, with high UVA-UVB protection. This research work proposes the development and in vitro efficacy evaluation of sunscreens containing rutin, an antioxidant flavonol, associated or not to UVA (benzophenone-3) and UVB (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) filters. Formulations were in vitro assayed by reflectance spectrophotometry with integrated sphere, regarding the following parameters: estimated sun protection factor (SPF), critical wavelength (nm) and UVA/UVB ratio. Rutin 0.1% w/w photoprotection efficacy presented dependent of the concentration and presence of the UVA and UVB filters, and it was verified synergism on the SPF elevation, from 7.34 +/- 0.24 to 9.97 +/- 0.18, when the flavonoid was associated with the filters in minimum concentrations. Isolated rutin exerted UVA protection superior to the formulation not added to UV filters and their associations.

A HPLC method to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing UV-filters and vitamins A and E

This paper reports a simple and reliable HPLC method to evaluate the influence of two currently available photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing combined UV-filters and vitamins A and E. Vitamins and UV-filters, widely encountered in products of daily use have to be routinely evaluated since photoinstability can lead to reductions in their efficacy and safety. UV-irradiated formulation samples were submitted to a procedure that included a reliable, precise and specific HPLC method employing a C18 column and detection at 325 and 235 nm. Methanol, isopropanol and water were the mobile phases in gradient elution. The method precision was between 0.28 and 5.07. The photostabilizers studied [diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC)], influenced the stability of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) associated with vitamins A and E. BTDC was considered the best photostabilizer to vitamins and OMC when the UV-filters were combined with both vitamins A and E. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Simultaneous analysis of parabens in cosmetic products by stir bar sorptive extraction and liquid chromatography

A sensitive and precise stir bar sorptive extraction (SBSE) combined with LC (SBSE/LC) analysis is described for simultaneous determination of methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl parabens in commercial cosmetic products in agreement with the European Union Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC. Important factors in the optimization of SB SE efficiency are discussed, such as time and temperature of extraction, pH, and ionic strength of the sample, matrix effects, and liquid desorption conditions by different modes (magnetic stirring, ultrasonic). The LOQs of the SBSE/LC method ranged from 30 to 200 ng/mg, with linear response over a dynamic range, from the LOQ to 2.5 mu g/mg, with a coefficient of determination higher than 0.993. The interday precision of the SBSE/LC method presented a coefficient of variation lower than 5%. The effectiveness of the proposed method was proven for analysis of commercial cosmetic products such as body creams, antiperspirant creams, and sunscreens.

Reliable and fast sensor for in vitro evaluation of solar protection factor based on the photobleaching kinetics of a nanocrystalline TiO(2)/dye UV-dosimeter

A reliable and fast sensor for in vitro evaluation of solar protection factors (SPFs) of cosmetic products, based on the photobleaching kinetics of a nanocrystalline TiO(2)/dye UV-dosimeter, has been devised. The accuracy, robustness and suitability of the new device was demonstrated by the excellent matching of the predicted and the in vivo results up to SPF 70, for four standard samples analyzed in blind. These results strongly suggest that our device can be useful for routine SPF evaluation in laboratories devoted to the development or production of cosmetic formulations, since the conventional in vitro methods tend to exhibit unacceptably high errors above SPF similar to 30 and the conventional in vivo methods tend to be expensive and exceedingly time consuming. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.