SENSORY APPROACH TO MEASURE FRAGRANCE INTENSITY ON THE SKIN

Sensory analysis is a precise and descriptive measuring technique to quantify human responses to stimuli. Odor, one of these stimuli, is basically the result of the interaction between a chemical stimulus and the olfactory receptor system, which can be described using a number of different dimensions and measures through different sensory tests: threshold, intensity and quality. To measure fragrance performance on the skin, these parameters are very important, but the main attribute to be evaluated is substantivity, thus the importance of the sensory scale chosen to measure perception, discriminate different intensities and determine the substantivity of the fragrance. Some studies comparing the labeled magnitude scale (LMS) with other magnitude scales and their derivations showed that the use of the LMS scale to measure fragrance intensity could semantically understand the intensity of the stimulus. Tests using this scale confirmed the applicability and efficiency of the LMS. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS The objective of this article is to review the techniques used to measure odor and fragrance intensities applied on the skin. The review shows general sensory techniques and their goals, the newest olfactory mechanism and its contribution to sensory evaluation and which attributes should be considered to measure odor. Substantivity/retentivity or longevity can be regarded as the most important attributes if you want to measure fragrance performance on the skin. Past studies showed different scales tested to measure odor, and some of them demonstrated that the labeled magnitude scale is very suitable to measure fragrance on the skin.

Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Aerobic oxidation of monoterpenic alcohols catalyzed by ruthenium hydroxide supported on silica-coated magnetic nanoparticles

Ruthenium hydroxide supported on silica-coated magnetic nanoparticles was shown to be an efficient heterogeneous catalyst for the liquid-phase oxidation of a wide range of alcohols using molecular oxygen as a sole oxidant in the absence of co-catalysts or additives. The material was prepared through the loading of the amino modified support with ruthenium(III) ions from an aqueous solution of ruthenium(III) chloride followed by treatment with sodium hydroxide to form ruthenium hydroxide species. Characterizations suggest that ruthenium hydroxide is highly dispersed on the support surface, with no ruthenium containing crystalline phases being detected. Various carbonylic monoterpenoids important for fragrance and pharmaceutical industries can be obtained in good to excellent yields starting from biomass-based monoterpenic alcohols, such as isobomeol, perillyl alcohol, carveol, and citronellol. The catalyst undergoes no metal leaching and can be easily recovered by the application of an external magnet and re-used. (C) 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.