Accelerated Stability and Moisturizing Capacity of Emulsions Presenting Lamellar Gel Phase Obtained from Brazilian Natural Raw Material

Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions containing gel phase were developed with cupuassu and/or cocoa butter from Brazilian ecosystem. They were subjected to storage advanced stability tests (SAST) and to in vivo corneometry evaluation. The evaluated emulsions showed great performance in the evaluated conditions considering that no significant variation was observed. The moisturizing potential was advantageous even without the moisturizing active. The formulation was considered a good cosmetic moisturizing cream and a promise as a drug carrier.

Analysis of the Phase Changes During Evaporation of Emulsions with Different Oil Phases

Emulsions surfer alterations in their microstructure after applied on the skin, because of the interaction with skin constituents and mainly by the evaporation of volatile components. These alterations are not even considered by cosmetic formulators, but they are extremely important because they can act on formulation stability, on delivery and on permeation of actives and also on the ability to build the occlusive film, responsible for skin`s moisturization. This research studied the phase changing during evaporation of emulsions made with three different oil phase: mineral oil, avocado oil, and isocethyl/stearoil stearate, as a function of the decrease on water ratio, using phase diagrams and evaporation test. It was observed the formation of liquid crystalline phases and their transition along the evaporation path for emulsions with the three different oil phases. It was also observed that these transitions occurred in different water ratios.