Margaret Thatcher, Dress and the Politics of Fashion

Through Margaret Thatcher’s private and public performances, the micro-politics of dress translated into the macro-politics of power. Thatcher’s changing career can be traced through her dress (see Young 1991: 416-417); analysis of her dress leading up to and during her Premiership reveals both her aspirations and increasing power. Understanding of Thatcher’s agency in her embodied, dressed performances can be informed and developed through Butler’s (1999) conceptualization of performativity. Through adaptation, repetition and divergent dress, Thatcher constructed different identities, some of which became iconic symbols of her self and her politics. Examination of Thatcher’s dress refines the understanding of the relationship between constraints and agency experienced by actors in the public realm. Upon becoming party leader, Margaret Thatcher’s gender, class and ideological viewpoints were incongruent with her unprecedented political status and she faced many challenges in attempting to overcome this. Dress became a potentially destabilising focus for her critics and symbolic of her “outsider” status. Yet in the face of these challenges she recognized and learned from the expectations of others, adapting and changing her dress. However, this was not an instantaneous, complete or permanent transformation. What Thatcher achieved, as she crafted her dressed performances, was agency over a further aspect of her life and her politics. There was also an evolving alignment of her dress with her political ideology and domestic and international roles over time.

Experiments and Archives in the Expanded Field

All This Stuff: Archiving the Artist explores the documentation of the creative process. From their different viewpoints, fifteen leading artists, archivists and art historians reflect on the ways that artists and archivists deal with all this stuff , and how artists manage and relate to their own archives. This is a timely and important book, based on work initiated by the Art Archives Committee of ARLIS, the Art Libraries Society of the UK and Ireland. The book addresses issues from the perspectives of the archivist as well as those of the artist. At a time when more members of the library profession are being asked to manage artists archives, it is important to address the challenges associated with the special nature of this material. All This Stuff: Archiving the Artist provides artists and researchers valuable insights into the archival process, addressing questions such as what material should artists be keeping? What will happen to their material after it has been accepted by an archive? It also explores how an archivist or researcher can approach an artist s archive in a non-traditional way. The experiences described by the different contributors offer a practical understanding of the challenges facing researchers working with artists archives, and will help to raise awareness among artists of the longer-term value of their archival material, and the unpredictable ways in which it may be recontextualised, explored and interpreted in the future.