37 resultados para ocean waves
em University of Queensland eSpace - Australia
Resumo:
The action of water waves moving over a porous seabed drives a seepage flux into and out of the marine sediments. The volume of fluid exchange per wave cycle may affect the rate of contaminant transport in the sediments. In this paper, the dynamic response of the seabed to ocean waves is treated analytically on the basis of pore-elastic theory applied to a porous seabed. The seabed is modelled as a semi-infinite, isotropic, homogeneous material. Most previous investigations on the wave-seabed interaction problem have assumed quasi-static conditions within the seabed, although dynamic behaviour often occurs in natural environments. Furthermore, wave pressures used in the previous approaches were obtained from conventional ocean wave theories: which are based on the assumption of an impermeable rigid seabed. By introducing a complex wave number, we derive a new wave dispersion equation, which includes the seabed characteristics (such as soil permeability, shear modulus, etc.). Based on the new closed-form analytical solution, the relative differences of the wave-induced seabed response under dynamic and quasi-static conditions are examined. The effects of wave and soil parameters on the seepage flux per wave cycle are also discussed in detail. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.
Resumo:
Groundwater waves, that is, water table fluctuations, are a natural phenomenon in coastal aquifers. They represent an important part of the interaction between the ocean and aquifer and affect the mass exchange between them. This paper presents a new groundwater wave equation. Because it includes the effects of vertical flows and capillarity, the new equation is applicable to both intermediate-depth aquifers and high-frequency waves. Compared with the wave equation derived by Nielsen ed al. [1997], the present equation provides a closer representation of groundwater waves. In particular, it predicts high-frequency water table fluctuations as observed in the field. A validation of the new equation has been carried out by comparing the analytical solutions to it with predictions from direct simulations using the numerical model SUTRA. The effects of various physical parameters and their relative importance are also discussed.
Resumo:
Previous studies on tidal dynamics of coastal aquifers have focussed on the inland propagation of oceanic tides in the cross-shore direction, a configuration that is essentially one-dimensional. Aquifers at natural coasts can also be influenced by tidal waves in nearby estuaries, resulting in a more complex behaviour of head fluctuations in the aquifers. We present an analytical solution to the two-dimensional depth-averaged groundwater flow equation for a semi-infinite aquifer subject to oscillating head conditions at the boundaries. The solution describes the tidal dynamics of a coastal aquifer that is adjacent to a cross-shore estuary. Both the effects of oceanic and estuarine tides on the aquifer are included in the solution. The analytical prediction of the head fluctuations is verified by comparison with numerical solutions computed using a standard finite-difference method. An essential feature of the present analytical solution is the interaction between the cross- and along-shore tidal waves in the aquifer area near the estuary's entry. As the distance from the estuary or coastline increases, the wave interaction is weakened and the aquifer response is reduced, respectively, to the one-dimensional solution for oceanic tides or the solution of Sun (Sun H. A two-dimensional analytical solution of groundwater response to tidal loading in an estuary, Water Resour Res 1997;33:1429-35) for two-dimensional non-interacting tidal waves. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.
Resumo:
Sediment mobility measurements with a horizontal sand bed under non-breaking waves are reported. Conditions include no seepage and steady downward seepage corresponding to head gradients up to 2.5. The results indicate that infiltration tends to inhibit sediment mobility for a horizontal bcd of 0.2 mm quartz sand exposed to moderated wave induced bed shear stresses. The effect is weak for the parameter range of the present study. The two opposing effects of shear stress increase due to boundary layer thinning and the stabilizing downward drag are successfully accounted for through the modified Shields parameter of Nielsen [Nielsen, P., 1997. Coastal groundwater dynamics. Proc. Coastal Dynamics '97, Plymouth, ASCE, Dp, 546-555] using coefficients derived from independent studies. That is, from the shear stress experiments of Conley [Conley, D.C., 1993. Ventilated oscillatory boundary layers. PhD Thesis, University of California, San Diego, 74 pp.] and the slope stability experiments of Martin and Aral [Martin, C.S. and M.M. Aral, 1971. Seepage force on interfacial bed particles. J. Hydraulics Div., proc. ASCE, Vol. 97, No. Hy7, pp. 1081-1100]. (C) 2001 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
Resumo:
A simple method is provided for calculating transport rates of not too fine (d(50) greater than or equal to 0.20 mm) sand under sheet flow conditions. The method consists of a Meyer-Peter-type transport formula operating on a time-varying Shields parameter, which accounts for both acceleration-asymmetry and boundary layer streaming. While velocity moment formulae, e.g.., = Constant x calibrated against U-tube measurements, fail spectacularly under some real waves (Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., McLean, S.R., Vincent, C., 2000. Near-bed sand transport mechanisms under waves. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, ASCE, New York, pp. 3263-3276, Fig. 12), the new method predicts the real wave observations equally well. The reason that the velocity moment formulae fail under these waves is partly the presence of boundary layer streaming and partly the saw-tooth asymmetry, i.e., the front of the waves being steeper than the back. Waves with saw-tooth asymmetry may generate a net landward sediment transport even if = 0, because of the more abrupt acceleration under the steep front. More abrupt accelerations are associated with thinner boundary layers and greater pressure gradients for a given velocity magnitude. The two real wave effects are incorporated in a model of the form Q(s)(t) = Q(s)[theta(t)] rather than Q(S)(t) = Q(S)[u(infinity)(t)], i.e., by expressing the transport rate in terms of an instantaneous Shields parameter rather than in terms of the free stream velocity, and accounting for both streaming and accelerations in the 0(t) calculations. The instantaneous friction velocities u(*)(t) and subsequently theta(t) are calculated as follows. Firstly, a linear filter incorporating the grain roughness friction factor f(2.5) and a phase angle phi(tau) is applied to u(infinity)(t). This delivers u(*)(t) which is used to calculate an instantaneous grain roughness Shields parameter theta(2.5)(t). Secondly, a constant bed shear stress is added which corresponds to the streaming related bed shear stress -rho ($) over bar((u) over tilde(w) over tilde)(infinity) . The method can be applied to any u(infinity)(t) time series, but further experimental validation is recommended before application to conditions that differ strongly from the ones considered below. The method is not recommended for rippled beds or for sheet flow with typical prototype wave periods and d(50) < 0.20 turn. In such scenarios, time lags related to vertical sediment movement become important, and these are not considered by the present model. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
Resumo:
Water level and current measurements from two virtually enclosed South Pacific atolls, Manihiki and Rakahanga, support a new lagoon flushing mechanism which is driven by waves and modulated by the ocean tide for virtually enclosed atolls. This is evident because the lagoon water level remains above the ocean at all tidal phases (i.e., ruling out tidal flushing) and because the average lagoon water level rises significantly during periods with large waves. Hence, we develop a model by which the lagoons are flushed by waves pumping of ocean water into the lagoon and gravity draining water from the lagoon over the reef rim. That is, the waves on the exposed side push water into the lagoon during most of the tidal cycle while water leaves the lagoon on the protected side for most of the tidal cycle. This wave-driven through flow flushing is shown to be more efficient than alternating tidal flushing with respect to water renewal. Improved water quality should therefore be sought through enhancement of the natural wave pumping rather than by blasting deep channels which would change the system to an alternating tide-driven one.
Resumo:
Comparisons among loci with differing modes of inheritance can reveal unexpected aspects of population history. We employ a multilocus approach to ask whether two types of independently assorting mitochondrial DNAs (maternally and paternally inherited: F- and M-mtDNA) and a nuclear locus (ITS) yield concordant estimates of gene flow and population divergence. The blue mussel, Mytilus edulis, is distributed on both North American and European coastlines and these populations are separated by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Gene flow across the Atlantic Ocean differs among loci, with F-mtDNA and ITS showing an imprint of some genetic interchange and M-mtDNA showing no evidence for gene flow. Gene flow of F-mtDNA and ITS causes trans-Atlantic population divergence times to be greatly underestimated for these loci, although a single trans-Atlantic population divergence time (1.2 MYA) can be accommodated by considering all three loci in combination in a coalescent framework. The apparent lack of gene flow for M-mtDNA is not readily explained by different dispersal capacities of male and female mussels. A genetic barrier to M-mtDNA exchange between North American and European mussel populations is likely to explain the observed pattern, perhaps associated with the double uniparental system of mitochondrial DNA inheritance.
Resumo:
In high-velocity open channel flows, free-surface aeration is commonly observed. The effects of surface waves on the air-water flow properties are tested herein. The study simulates the air-water flow past a fixed-location phase-detection probe by introducing random fluctuations of the flow depth. The present model yields results that are close to experimental observations in terms of void fraction, bubble count rate and bubble/droplet chord size distributions. The results show that the surface waves have relatively little impact on the void fraction profiles, but that the bubble count rate profiles and the distributions of bubble and chord sizes are affected by the presence of surface waves.
Resumo:
Large-scale patterns of species diversity in the gastrointestinal helminth faunas of the coral reef fish Epinephelus merra (Serranidae) were investigated in French Polynesia and the South Pacific Ocean. The richer barrier reef community in French Polynesia supported richer parasite communities in E. merra than that on the fringing reef. While parasite communities among fish from the same archipelago were similar, differences in potential host species and the distance between archipelagos may have contributed to a qualitative difference in parasite communities between archipelagos. Digenean community diversity in coral reef fishes was greater in the western South Pacific, following similar patterns in free-living species. However, overall species diversity of camallanid nematodes of coral reef fishes does not appear to have been similarly affected.
Resumo:
Dynamic foam films have been investigated using an improved experimental set-up with a CCD high-speed linescan camera in conjunction with the Scheludko micro-interferometric cell for studying the drainage and rupture of liquid foam films. The improved experimental set-up increased the sensibility of detection of the local thickness heterogeneities and domains during the film evolution. The evolution of the foam films up to the formation of black spots was recorded in the time intervals of 50ms. The wavelengths of the propagating surface waves and their frequencies were determined experimentally. The experimental results show that the current quasi-static hydrodynamic theory does not properly describe the wave dynamics with inter-domain channels. However, the thermodynamic condition for formation of black spots in the foam films was met by the experimental results. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
Resumo:
This paper presents field measurements and numerical simulations of groundwater dynamics in the intertidal zone of a sandy meso-tidal beach. The study, focusing on vertical hydraulic gradients and pore water salinities, reveals that tides and waves provide important forcing mechanisms for flow and salt transport in the nearshore aquifer. Such forcing, interacting with the beach morphology, enhances the exchange between the aquifer and ocean. The spatial and temporal variations of vertical hydraulic gradients demonstrate the complexity and dynamic nature of the processes and the extent of mixing between fresh groundwater and seawater in a subterranean estuary''. These results provide evidence of a potentially important reaction zone in the nearshore aquifer driven by oceanic oscillations. Land-derived contaminants may undergo important biogeochemical transformations in this zone prior to discharge.
Resumo:
We present results from both theoretical and experimental studies of the noise characteristics of mode-locked superfluorescent lasers. The results show that observed macroscopic broadband amplitude noise on the laser pulse train has its origin in quantum noise-initiated ''phase-wave'' fluctuations, and we find an associated phase transition in the noise characteristics as a function of laser cavity detuning.
Resumo:
A traveling wave of BaSO4 in the chlorite-thiourea reaction has shown concentric precipitation patterns upon being triggered by the autocatalyst HOCl. The precipitation patterns show circular rings of alternate null and full precipitation regions. This self-organization appears to be the result of the formation of a convective torus. The formation of the convective torus can be described as a Benard-Marangoni instability with lateral heating.