Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

When oceans meet: a teleost shows secondary intergradation at an Indian-Pacific interface

The Indo-West Pacific is characterized by extraordinary marine species diversity. The evolutionary mechanisms responsible for generating this diversity remain puzzling, but are often linked to Pleistocene sea level fluctuations. The impact of these sea level changes on the population genetic architecture of the estuarine fish Lates calcarifer are investigated via a natural experiment in a region of the Indo-West Pacific known to have undergone considerable change during the Pleistocene. L. calcarifer, a coastline-restricted catadromous teleost, provides an excellent model for studying the effects of sea level change as its habitat requirements potentially make it sensitive to the region's physical history. Evidence was found for a large phylogenetic break (4% mtDNA control region; 0.47% ATPase 6 and 8) either side of the Torres Strait, which separates the Western Pacific and Indian Oceans, although some mixing of the clades was evident. This suggests clinal secondary introgression of the clades via contemporary gene flow. Further, populations on Australia's east coast appear to have passed through a bottleneck. This was linked to the historical drying of the Great Barrier Reef coastal lagoon, which resulted in a significant loss of habitat and forced retreat into isolated refugia. These results suggest that historical eustatic changes have left a significant imprint on the molecular diversity within marine species as well as among them in the Indo-West Pacific.

Sediment yield and impacts from river catchments to the Great Barrier Reef lagoon

Land use intensification is estimated to result in an overall increase in sediment delivery to the Great Barrier Reef lagoon by a factor of approximately four. Modelling suggests that, following land use intensification, croplands cause the greatest increase of sediment yield and sediment concentration, whereas erosion of grazing land is the main contemporary source of sediments, primarily owing to the large spatial extent of this land use. The spatial pattern of sediment yield to the coast after land use intensification is strongly correlated with the pattern under natural conditions, although the greatest increase is estimated to have occurred in the wet-dry catchments. Sediment transport and resuspension processes have led to the development of a strongly sediment-partitioned shelf, with modern mud-rich sediments almost exclusively restricted to the inner and inner-middle shelf, northward-facing embayments and in the lee of headlands. Elevated sediment concentrations increase the potential transport rates of nutrients and other pollutants. Whether increased sediment supply to the coastal zone has impacted on reefs remains a point of contention. More sediment load data need to be collected and analysed in order to make detailed estimates of catchment yields and establish the possible sediment impact on the Great Barrier Reef.

Atoll lagoon flushing forced by waves

Water level and current measurements from two virtually enclosed South Pacific atolls, Manihiki and Rakahanga, support a new lagoon flushing mechanism which is driven by waves and modulated by the ocean tide for virtually enclosed atolls. This is evident because the lagoon water level remains above the ocean at all tidal phases (i.e., ruling out tidal flushing) and because the average lagoon water level rises significantly during periods with large waves. Hence, we develop a model by which the lagoons are flushed by waves pumping of ocean water into the lagoon and gravity draining water from the lagoon over the reef rim. That is, the waves on the exposed side push water into the lagoon during most of the tidal cycle while water leaves the lagoon on the protected side for most of the tidal cycle. This wave-driven through flow flushing is shown to be more efficient than alternating tidal flushing with respect to water renewal. Improved water quality should therefore be sought through enhancement of the natural wave pumping rather than by blasting deep channels which would change the system to an alternating tide-driven one.

From Midden to Sieve: The Impact of Differential Recovery and Quantification Techniques on Interpretations of Shellfish Remains in Australian Coastal Archaeology

Experimental mechanical sieving methods are applied to samples of shellfish remains from three sites in southeast Queensland, Seven Mile Creek Mound, Sandstone Point and One-Tree, to test the efficacy of various recovery and quantification procedures commonly applied to shellfish assemblages in Australia. There has been considerable debate regarding the most appropriate sieve sizes and quantification methods that should be applied in the recovery of vertebrate faunal remains. Few studies, however, have addressed the impact of recovery and quantification methods on the interpretation of invertebrates, specifically shellfish remains. In this study, five shellfish taxa representing four bivalves (Anadara trapezia, Trichomya hirsutus, Saccostrea glomerata, Donax deltoides) and one gastropod (Pyrazus ebeninus) common in eastern Australian midden assemblages are sieved through 10mm, 6.3mm and 3.15mm mesh. Results are quantified using MNI, NISP and weight. Analyses indicate that different structural properties and pre- and postdepositional factors affect recovery rates. Fragile taxa (T. hirsutus) or those with foliated structure (S. glomerata) tend to be overrepresented by NISP measures in smaller sieve fractions, while more robust taxa (A. trapezia and P. ebeninus) tend to be overrepresented by weight measures. Results demonstrate that for all quantification methods tested a 3mm sieve should be used on all sites to allow for regional comparability and to effectively collect all available information about the shellfish remains.

Coastal photograph: Aber Wrac'h, Pays du Léon, Bretagne

Aber Wrac’h, Pays du Léon, Bretagne. Aber Wrac’h, Bretagne, France, on 10 March 2004 at 13:30 (low tide) looking North (downstream) towards the Aber mouth and open sea between Lannilis and Plougerneau, Pays des Abers, Pays du Le´on. The word "Aber" is Britton (Breton) for a "fjord"-like estuary. Located on the Channel, the region "Pays des Abers" includes several deep incisions in the coastlines. The best known ‘‘Abers’’ are the Aber Wrac’h and Aber Benoit in the Pays du Léon, Finistere Nord.

Morphology of the thyroid in coastal and noncoastal populations of the koala (Phascolarctos cinereus) in Queensland

The gross morphology, histology, and ultrastructure of the thyroid gland of the koala, Phascolarctos cinereus, is described. Generally, the glands were found to contain large-diameter follicles in association with an epithelium of low height. Morphometric analysis demonstrated a high relative thyroid weight (0.3 +/- 0.2 g/kg) for koalas compared with the 0.07-0.24 g/kg typical of eutherian mammals and 0.03-0.1 g/kg found in other marsupials. The relative thyroid weight of glands (0.33 +/- 0.21 g/kg) from the coastal population (less than 28 km from the coastline) was found to be significantly higher (ANOVA: P = 0.007, significant at the 1% level) than that for glands (0.21 +/- 0.11 g/kg) of noncoastal koalas (greater than 28 km from the coastline). Follicle size was positively correlated (at the 0.1% level) with relative thyroid weight in the overall koala sample. The presence of C cells, occurring singly in the epithelial layer, was demonstrated in electron micrographs. Structural features such as low epithelial height, large follicle length and width, and large intercellular spaces in association with low concentrations of free TS (3.3 +/- 2.1 pM) and free T-3 (1.4 +/- 0.9 pM) as reported previously (Lawson et al., 1996) are consistent with an unusually low level of glandular activity in the koala thyroid even though iodine concentrations in the thyroid gland [4.7 +/- 1.6 mg/g (dry weight)] as well as leaf [0.8 +/- 0.3 mu g (dry weight)] and soil samples [3.8 mu g/g (dry weight)] from the koalas' habitat appear unremarkable. (C) 1998 Academic Press.

Lepocreadiidae (Digenea) of Australian coastal fishes: new species of Opechona Looss, 1907, Lepotrema Ozaki, 1932 and Bianium Stunkard, 1930 and comments on other species reported for the first time or poorly known in Australian waters

Opechona austrobacillaris n, sp. is described from Pomatomus saltatrix from marine sites off Western Australia and New South Wales, Australia. It differs from O. bacillaris in its elongate outline, small ventral sucker, longer pseudoesophagus (relative to the oesophagus), relatively shorter ventral sucker to ovary distance and the relatively longer post-testicular region. Lepotrema monile n. sp. is described from Pomacentrus wardi from Heron Island, Queensland. It differs from its congeners in the sphincter around the distal metraterm and the more-or-less oval ovary. Bianium spongiosum n. sp, is described from Ostracion cubicus from Lizard Island, Queensland. It differs from its congeners in lacking lateral flaps in the forebody, but in having large, internal spongiform patches in the lateral forebody. The following species are redescribed from Australian sites: Lepocreadium oyabitcha from Abudefduf whitleyi, Lizard Island; Clavogalea trachinoti from Trachinotus botla, Heron Island and T. coppingeri, New South Wales, Stradbroke Island, Queensland and Heron Island; Myzoxenus insolens from Notolabrus parilus, Western Australia; Bulbocirrus aulostomi from Aulostomus chinensis, Heron Island; Lepocreadioides orientalis [new synonyms: Bicaudum interruptum Bilqees, 1973; Lepocreadioides interruptum (Bilqees, 1973) Madhavi, Narasimhulu & Shameem, 1986; Lepocreadioides discum Wang, 1986; Lepocreadioides sp. of Karyakarte & Yadav (1976)] from Cynoglossus bilineata, Moreton Bay, Queensland; Hypocreadium patellare from Sufflamen chrysopterus, Heron Island; Echeneidocoelium indicum from Echeneis naucrates, Heron Island; Multitestis pyriformis from Epinephelus cyanopodus, Heron Island; Pseudopisthogonoporus vitellosus from Naso brevirostris, Heron Island; and Bianium hispidum from Torquigener whitleyi and T. pleurogramma, southern Queensland. Only M. solens and M. pyriformis have been reported from Australian waters before; both are new host records.

Submarine groundwater discharge and associated chemical input to a coastal sea

This paper presents a theoretical model of flow and chemical transport processes in subterranean estuaries (unconfined brackish groundwater aquifers at the ocean-land interface). The model shows that groundwater circulation and oscillating flow, caused by wave setup and tide, may constitute up to 96% of submarine groundwater discharge (SGWD) compared with 4% due to the net groundwater discharge. While these local flow processes do not change the total amount of land-derived chemical input to the ocean over a long period (e.g., yearly), they induce fluctuations of the chemical transfer rate as the aquifer undergoes saltwater intrusion. This may result in a substantial increase in chemical fluxes to the ocean over a short period (e.g., monthly and by a factor of 20 above the averaged level), imposing a possible threat to the marine environment. These results are essentially consistent with the experimental findings of Moore [1996] and have important implications for coastal resources management.

Groundwater waves in a coastal aquifer: A new governing equation including vertical effects and capillarity

Groundwater waves, that is, water table fluctuations, are a natural phenomenon in coastal aquifers. They represent an important part of the interaction between the ocean and aquifer and affect the mass exchange between them. This paper presents a new groundwater wave equation. Because it includes the effects of vertical flows and capillarity, the new equation is applicable to both intermediate-depth aquifers and high-frequency waves. Compared with the wave equation derived by Nielsen ed al. [1997], the present equation provides a closer representation of groundwater waves. In particular, it predicts high-frequency water table fluctuations as observed in the field. A validation of the new equation has been carried out by comparing the analytical solutions to it with predictions from direct simulations using the numerical model SUTRA. The effects of various physical parameters and their relative importance are also discussed.

Historical overfishing and the recent collapse of coastal ecosystems

Ecological extinction caused by overfishing precedes all other pervasive human disturbance to coastal ecosystems, including pollution, degradation of water quality, and anthropogenic climate change. Historical abundances of large consumer species were fantastically large in comparison with recent observations. Paleoecological, archaeological, and historical data show that time lags of decades to centuries occurred between the onset of overfishing and consequent changes in ecological communities, because unfished species of similar trophic level assumed the ecological roles of overfished species until they too were overfished or died of epidemic diseases related to overcrowding. Retrospective data not only help to clarify underlying causes and rates of ecological change, but they also demonstrate achievable goals for restoration and management of coastal ecosystems that could not even be contemplated based on the limited perspective of recent observations alone.

Analytical solution for tidal propagation in a coupled semi-confined/phreatic coastal aquifer

An analytical solution is derived for tidal fluctuations in a coupled coastal aquifer system consisting of a semi-confined aquifer, a thin semi-permeable layer and a phreatic aquifer. Based on the solution, we study the interactions (via leakage) between the confined and unconfined aquifers in response to tides. The results show that, under certain conditions, leakage from the confined aquifer can affect considerably the tidal water table fluctuation in the phreatic aquifer and vice versa. Ignoring these effects could lead to errors in estimating aquifer properties based on tidal signals. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Two-dimensional approximation for tidal dynamics in coastal aquifers: Capillarity correction

Most previous investigations on tide-induced watertable fluctuations in coastal aquifers have been based on one-dimensional models that describe the processes in the cross-shore direction alone, assuming negligible along-shore variability. A recent study proposed a two-dimensional approximation for tide-induced watertable fluctuations that took into account coastline variations. Here, we further develop this approximation in two ways, by extending the approximation to second order and by taking into account capillary effects. Our results demonstrate that both effects can markedly influence watertable fluctuations. In particular, with the first-order approximation, the local damping rate of the tidal signal could be subject to sizable errors.