Wave-generated flow on coral reefs - an analysis for two-dimensional horizontal reef-tops with steep faces

Waves breaking on the seaward rim of a coral reef generate a flow of water from the exposed side of the reef to the sheltered side and/or to either channels through the reef-rim or lower sections of the latter. This wave-generated flow is driven by the water surface gradient resulting from the wave set-up created by the breaking waves. This paper reviews previous approaches to modelling wave-generated flows across coral reefs and discusses the influence of reef morphology and roughness upon these flows. Laboratory measurements upon a two-dimensional horizontal reef platform with a steep reef face provide the basis for extending a previous theoretical analysis for wave set-up on a reef in the absence of a flow [Gourlay, M.R., 1996b. Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles. Coastal Engineering 28, 1755] to include the interaction between a unidirectional flow and the wave set-up. The laboratory model results are then used to demonstrate that there are two basic reef-top flow regimes-reef-top control and reef-rim control. Using open channel flow theory, analytical relationships are derived for the reef-top current velocity in terms of the offreef wave conditions, the reef-top water depth and the physical characteristics of the reef-top topography. The wave set-up and wave-generated flow relationships are found to predict experimental values with reasonable accuracy in most cases. The analytical relationships are used to investigate wave-generated flows into a boat harbour channel on Heron Reef in the southern Great Barrier Reef. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

A simple solution of the laminar dam break wave

The sudden release of a mass of fluid in a channel generates a highly unsteady flow motion, called dam break wave. While industrial fluids exhibit sometimes non-Newtonian behaviours, the viscous fluid flow assumption remains a useful approximation for simplified analyses. In this study, new solutions of laminar dam break wave are proposed for a semi-infinite reservoir based upon the method of characteristics. The solutions yield simple explicit expressions of the wave front location, wave front celerity and instantaneous free-surface profiles that compare favourably with experimental observations. Both horizontal and sloping channel configurations are treated. The simplicity of the equations may allow future extension to more complicated fluid flows.

Effects of temperature-dependent viscosity variation on entropy generation, heat and fluid flow through a porous-saturated duct of rectangular cross-section

Effect of temperature-dependent viscosity on fully developed forced convection in a duct of rectangular cross-section occupied by a fluid-saturated porous medium is investigated analytically. The Darcy flow model is applied and the viscosity-temperature relation is assumed to be an inverse-linear one. The case of uniform heat flux on the walls, i.e. the H boundary condition in the terminology of Kays and Crawford, is treated. For the case of a fluid whose viscosity decreases with temperature, it is found that the effect of the variation is to increase the Nusselt number for heated walls. Having found the velocity and the temperature distribution, the second law of thermodynamics is invoked to find the local and average entropy generation rate. Expressions for the entropy generation rate, the Bejan number, the heat transfer irreversibility, and the fluid flow irreversibility are presented in terms of the Brinkman number, the Péclet number, the viscosity variation number, the dimensionless wall heat flux, and the aspect ratio (width to height ratio). These expressions let a parametric study of the problem based on which it is observed that the entropy generated due to flow in a duct of square cross-section is more than those of rectangular counterparts while increasing the aspect ratio decreases the entropy generation rate similar to what previously reported for the clear flow case.

Comparison of experimental and numerical studies of ionizing flow over a cylinder

Comparisons are made between experimental measurements and numerical simulations of ionizing flows generated in a superorbital facility. Nitrogen, with a freestream velocity of around 10 km/s, was passed over a cylindrical model, and images were recorded using two-wavelength holographic interferometry. The resulting density, electron concentration, and temperature maps were compared with numerical simulations from the Langley Research Center aerothermodynamic upwind relaxation algorithm. The results showed generally good agreement in shock location and density distributions. Some discrepancies were observed for the electron concentration, possibly, because simulations were of a two-dimensional flow, whereas the experiments were likely to have small three-dimensional effects.

Concordance between dispersal and mitochondrial gene flow: isolation by distance in a tropical teleost, Lates calcarifer (Australian barramundi)

Patterns of population subdivision and the relationship between gene flow and geographical distance in the tropical estuarine fish Lares calcarifer (Centropomidae) were investigated using mtDNA control region sequences. Sixty-three putative haplotypes were resolved from a total of 270 individuals from nine localities within three geographical regions spanning the north Australian coastline. Despite a continuous estuarine distribution throughout the sampled range, no haplotypes were shared among regions. However, within regions, common haplotypes were often shared among localities. Both sequence-based (average Phi(ST)=0.328) and haplotype-based (average Phi(ST)=0.182) population subdivision analyses indicated strong geographical structuring. Depending on the method of calculation, geographical distance explained either 79 per cent (sequence-based) or 23 per cent (haplotype-based) of the variation in mitochondrial gene flow. Such relationships suggest that genetic differentiation of L. calcarifer has been generated via isolation-by-distance, possibly in a stepping-stone fashion. This pattern of genetic structure is concordant with expectations based on the life history of L. calcarifer and direct studies of its dispersal patterns. Mitochondrial DNA variation, although generally in agreement with patterns of allozyme variation, detected population subdivision at smaller spatial scales. Our analysis of mtDNA variation in L. calcarifer confirms that population genetic models can detect population structure of not only evolutionary significance but also of demographic significance. Further, it demonstrates the power of inferring such structure from hypervariable markers, which correspond to small effective population sizes.

Sensitive detection of nitric oxide using seeded parametric four-wave mixing

A sensitive near-resonant four-wave mixing technique based on two-photon parametric four-wave mixing has been developed. Seeded parametric four-wave mixing requires only a single laser as an additional phase matched seeder field is generated via parametric four-wave mixing of the pump beam in a high gain cell. The seeder field travels collinearly with the pump beam providing efficient nondegenerate four-wave mixing in a second medium. This simple arrangement facilitates the detection of complex molecular spectra by simply scanning the pump laser. Seeded parametric four-wave mixing is demonstrated in both a low pressure cell and an air/acetylene flame with detection of the two-photon C (2) Pi(upsilon'=0)<--X (2) Pi(upsilon =0) spectrum of nitric oxide. From the cell data a detection limit of 10(12) molecules/cm(3) is established. A theoretical model of seeded parametric four-wave mixing is developed from existing parametric four-wave mixing theory. The addition of the seeder field significantly modifies the parametric four-wave mixing behaviour such that in the small signal regime, the signal intensity can readily be made to scale as the cube of the laser pump power while the density dependence follows a more familiar square law dependence, In general, we find excellent agreement between theory and experiment. Limitations to the process result from an ac Stark shift of the two-photon resonance in the high pressure seeder cell caused by the generation of a strong seeder field, as well as a reduction in phase matching efficiency due to the presence of certain buffer species. Various optimizations are suggested which should overcome these limitations, providing even greater detection sensitivity. (C) 1998 American Institute of Physics, [S0021-9606(98)01014-9].

Sensitive detection of sodium in a flame using parametric four-wave mixing and seeded parametric four-wave mixing

Two-photon resonant parametric four-wave mixing and a newly developed variant called seeded parametric four-wave mixing are used to detect trace quantities of sodium in a flame. Both techniques are simple, requiring only a single laser to generate a signal beam at a different wavelength which propagates collinearly with the pump beam, allowing efficient signal recovery. A comparison of the two techniques reveals that seeded parametric four-wave mixing is more than two orders of magnitude more sensitive than parametric four-wave mixing, with an estimated detection sensitivity of 5 x 10(9) atoms/cm(3). Seeded parametric four-wave mixing is achieved by cascading two parametric four-wave mixing media such that one of the parametric fields generated in the first high-density medium is then used to seed the same four-wave mixing process in a second medium in order to increase the four-wave mixing gain. The behavior of this seeded parametric four-wave mixing is described using semiclassical perturbation theory. A simplified small-signal theory is found to model most of the data satisfactorily. However, an anomalous saturationlike behavior is observed in the large signal regime. The full perturbation treatment, which includes the competition between two different four-wave mixing processes coupled via the signal field, accounts for this apparently anomalous behavior.

Analytical solution to the zero-inertia problem for surge flow phenomena in nonprismatic channels

Surge flow phenomena. e.g.. as a consequence of a dam failure or a flash flood, represent free boundary problems. ne extending computational domain together with the discontinuities involved renders their numerical solution a cumbersome procedure. This contribution proposes an analytical solution to the problem, It is based on the slightly modified zero-inertia (ZI) differential equations for nonprismatic channels and uses exclusively physical parameters. Employing the concept of a momentum-representative cross section of the moving water body together with a specific relationship for describing the cross sectional geometry leads, after considerable mathematical calculus. to the analytical solution. The hydrodynamic analytical model is free of numerical troubles, easy to run, computationally efficient. and fully satisfies the law of volume conservation. In a first test series, the hydrodynamic analytical ZI model compares very favorably with a full hydrodynamic numerical model in respect to published results of surge flow simulations in different types of prismatic channels. In order to extend these considerations to natural rivers, the accuracy of the analytical model in describing an irregular cross section is investigated and tested successfully. A sensitivity and error analysis reveals the important impact of the hydraulic radius on the velocity of the surge, and this underlines the importance of an adequate description of the topography, The new approach is finally applied to simulate a surge propagating down the irregularly shaped Isar Valley in the Bavarian Alps after a hypothetical dam failure. The straightforward and fully stable computation of the flood hydrograph along the Isar Valley clearly reflects the impact of the strongly varying topographic characteristics on the How phenomenon. Apart from treating surge flow phenomena as a whole, the analytical solution also offers a rigorous alternative to both (a) the approximate Whitham solution, for generating initial values, and (b) the rough volume balance techniques used to model the wave tip in numerical surge flow computations.

Beach water table fluctuations due to wave run-up: Capillarity effects

High-frequency beach water table fluctuations due to wave run-up and rundown have been observed in the field [Waddell, 1976]. Such fluctuations affect the infiltration/exfiltration process across the beach face and the interstitial oxygenation process in the beach ecosystem. Accurate representation of high-frequency water table fluctuations is of importance in the modeling of (1) the interaction between seawater and groundwater, more important, the effects on swash sediment transport and (2) the biological activities in the beach ecosystem. Capillarity effects provide a mechanism for high-frequency water table fluctuations. Previous modeling approaches adopted the assumption of saturated flow only and failed to predict the propagation of high-frequency fluctuations in the aquifer. In this paper we develop a modified kinematic boundary condition (kbc) for the water table which incorporates capillarity effects. The application of this kbc in a boundary element model enables the simulation of high-frequency water table fluctuations due to wave run-up. Numerical tests were carried out for a rectangular domain with small-amplitude oscillations; the behavior of water table responses was found to be similar to that predicted by an analytical solution based on the one-dimensional Boussinesq equation. The model was also applied to simulate the water table response to wave run-up on a doping beach. The results showed similar features of water table fluctuations observed in the field. In particular, these fluctuations are standing wave-like with the amplitude becoming increasingly damped inland. We conclude that the modified kbc presented here is a reasonable approximation of capillarity effects on beach water table fluctuations. However, further model validation is necessary before the model can confidently be used to simulate high-frequency water table fluctuations due to wave run-up.

A small disturbance in the strong vortex flow

A small disturbance in the axisymmetric, bathtub-like flow with strong vorticity is considered and the asymptotic representation of the solution is found. It is shown that if the disturbance is smaller than a certain critical scale, the conventional strong vortex approximation cannot describe the field generated by the disturbance not only in the vicinity of the disturbance but also at the distances much larger than the critical scale. (C) 2001 American Institute of Physics.

Near-resonant holographic interferometry of hypersonic flow

Near-Resonant Holographic Interferometry is a powerful technique which extends the established advantages of conventional holographic interferometry by allowing a species-specific number density to be determined. It has been tested in the harsh flow conditions generated in a high enthalpy facility yielding information about the shock shape on a cylindrical body and on the distribution of a trace species seeded into the flow.

Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for swash zone modelling

It is shown that the observed difference in sediment transporting efficiency by the swash uprush, compared with the downrush, could be mainly due to greater bed shear stress for a given velocity in the more abruptly accelerated uprush. The bed shear stress generated by an arbitrary free stream velocity time series is modelled in terms of usual wave boundary layer models plus a phase lead (phi(tau) of the bed shear stress compared with the free stream velocity at the peak frequency. With this approach, the total transport amounts in uprush and downrush can be modelled satisfactorily with the same sediment transport formula, without the need for different uprush and downrush coefficients. While the adaptation of sediment transport formulae from steady flow can thus lead to the right total amounts of sediment moved by this method, the timing of the instantaneous sediment transport rates are probably not accurately modelled due to the highly unsteady nature of the swash and the presence of pre-suspended sediment in the uprush. Nevertheless, the proposed method is a useful intermediate step before we have a complete understanding of sediment transport under very rapid accelerations and of the relative contribution of pre-suspended sediment to the onshore sediment transport in swash zones. (C) 2002 Published by Elsevier Science B.V.

Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for sheet flow under waves

A simple method is provided for calculating transport rates of not too fine (d(50) greater than or equal to 0.20 mm) sand under sheet flow conditions. The method consists of a Meyer-Peter-type transport formula operating on a time-varying Shields parameter, which accounts for both acceleration-asymmetry and boundary layer streaming. While velocity moment formulae, e.g.., = Constant x calibrated against U-tube measurements, fail spectacularly under some real waves (Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., McLean, S.R., Vincent, C., 2000. Near-bed sand transport mechanisms under waves. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, ASCE, New York, pp. 3263-3276, Fig. 12), the new method predicts the real wave observations equally well. The reason that the velocity moment formulae fail under these waves is partly the presence of boundary layer streaming and partly the saw-tooth asymmetry, i.e., the front of the waves being steeper than the back. Waves with saw-tooth asymmetry may generate a net landward sediment transport even if = 0, because of the more abrupt acceleration under the steep front. More abrupt accelerations are associated with thinner boundary layers and greater pressure gradients for a given velocity magnitude. The two real wave effects are incorporated in a model of the form Q(s)(t) = Q(s)[theta(t)] rather than Q(S)(t) = Q(S)[u(infinity)(t)], i.e., by expressing the transport rate in terms of an instantaneous Shields parameter rather than in terms of the free stream velocity, and accounting for both streaming and accelerations in the 0(t) calculations. The instantaneous friction velocities u(*)(t) and subsequently theta(t) are calculated as follows. Firstly, a linear filter incorporating the grain roughness friction factor f(2.5) and a phase angle phi(tau) is applied to u(infinity)(t). This delivers u(*)(t) which is used to calculate an instantaneous grain roughness Shields parameter theta(2.5)(t). Secondly, a constant bed shear stress is added which corresponds to the streaming related bed shear stress -rho ($) over bar((u) over tilde(w) over tilde)(infinity) . The method can be applied to any u(infinity)(t) time series, but further experimental validation is recommended before application to conditions that differ strongly from the ones considered below. The method is not recommended for rippled beds or for sheet flow with typical prototype wave periods and d(50) < 0.20 turn. In such scenarios, time lags related to vertical sediment movement become important, and these are not considered by the present model. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.