Coral mortality increases wave energy reaching shores protected by reef flats: Examples from the Seychelles

In the granitic Seychelles, many shores and beaches are fringed by coral reef flats which provide protection to shores from erosion by waves. The surfaces of these reef flats support a complex ecology. About 10 years ago their seaward zones were extensively covered by a rich coral growth, which reached approximately to mean low water level, but in 1998 this was largely killed by seawater warming. The resulting large expanses of dead coral skeletons in these locations are now disintegrating, and much of the subsequent modest recovery by new coral recruitment was set back by further mortalities. A mathematical model of wave energy reaching shorelines protected by coral reef flats has been applied to 14 Seychelles reefs. It is derived from equations which predict: (1) the raised water level, or wave set-up, on reef flats resulting from wave breaking, which depends upon offshore wave height and period, depth of still water over the reef flat and the reef crest profile, and (2) the decay of energy from reef edge to shoreline that is affected by width of reef flat, surface roughness, sea level rise and 'pseudo-sea level rise' created by increased depth resulting from disintegration of coral colonies. The model treats each reef as one entity, but because biota and zonation on reef flats are not homogenous, all reefs are divided into four zones. In each, cover by both living and dead biota was estimated for calculation of parameters, and then averaged to obtain input data for the model. All possible biological factors were taken into account, such as the ability of seagrass beds to grow upwards to match expected sea level rise, reduction in height of the reef flat in relation to sea level as zones of dead corals decay, and the observed 'rounding' of reef crests as erosion removes corals from those areas. Estimates were also made of all these factors for a time approximately a decade ago, representing a time before the mass coral mortality, and for approximately a decade in the future when the observed rapid state of dead coral colony disintegration is assumed to have reached an end point. Results of increased energy over the past decade explain observations of erosion in some sites in the Seychelles. Most importantly, it is estimated that the rise in energy reaching shores protected by fringing reefs will now accelerate more rapidly, such that the increase expected over the next decade will be approximately double than that seen over the past decade. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Time-evolution of highly localized positive-energy states of the free Dirac electron

Highly localized positive-energy states of the free Dirac electron are constructed and shown to evolve in a simple way under the action of Dirac's equation. When the initial uncertainty in position is small on the scale of the Compton wavelength, there is an associated uncertainty in the mean energy that is large compared with the rest mass of the electron. However, this does not lead to any breakdown of the one-particle description, associated with the possibility of pair-production, but rather leads to a rapid expansion of the probability density outwards from the point of localization, at speeds close to the speed of light.

Properties of the stochastic Gross-Pitaevskii equation: finite temperature Ehrenfest relations and the optimal plane wave representation

We present Ehrenfest relations for the high temperature stochastic Gross-Pitaevskii equation description of a trapped Bose gas, including the effect of growth noise and the energy cutoff. A condition for neglecting the cutoff terms in the Ehrenfest relations is found which is more stringent than the usual validity condition of the truncated Wigner or classical field method-that all modes are highly occupied. The condition requires a small overlap of the nonlinear interaction term with the lowest energy single particle state of the noncondensate band, and gives a means to constrain dynamical artefacts arising from the energy cutoff in numerical simulations. We apply the formalism to two simple test problems: (i) simulation of the Kohn mode oscillation for a trapped Bose gas at zero temperature, and (ii) computing the equilibrium properties of a finite temperature Bose gas within the classical field method. The examples indicate ways to control the effects of the cutoff, and that there is an optimal choice of plane wave basis for a given cutoff energy. This basis gives the best reproduction of the single particle spectrum, the condensate fraction and the position and momentum densities.

On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs

An extended refraction-diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97-126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation [epsilon(b)] = (alpha rho g omega/8 pi)(root gh/C)(H-3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay [Gourlayl M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17-42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient alpha and F-c0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.