On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs

An extended refraction-diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97-126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation [epsilon(b)] = (alpha rho g omega/8 pi)(root gh/C)(H-3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay [Gourlayl M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17-42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient alpha and F-c0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Experimental observations of watertable waves in an unconfined aquifer with a sloping boundary

Observations of horizontal and vertical variations in piezometric head in a homogeneous, laboratory aquifer are presented and discussed. The observed fluctuations are induced by a simple harmonic oscillation in the clear water reservoir acting across a sloping boundary. The data qualitatively supports existing theories in that higher harmonics are generated in the active forcing zone and that a significant increase in the inland, asymptotic watertable over height (relative to that found for the vertical boundary case) is observed. The observed overheight is shown to be accurately reproduced by existing small-amplitude perturbation theory. Detailed measurements in the vicinity of the sloping boundary reveal that the signal of generated higher harmonics is strongest near the sand surface and that vertical flows are significant in this region. The aquifer is of finite-depth and is influenced by capillary effects, the experimental data therefore exposes limitations of theories which are based on the assumption of a shallow aquifer free of capillary effects. The dispersive properties of the measured pressure wave in the aquifer are comparable to those found from field observations and likewise do not agree with those predicted by the capillary free, shallow aquifer theory. Although some improvement is obtained, discrepancies between the data and theory persist even when a finite-depth aquifer and capillary effects are considered in the theoretical model. Further sand column experiments eliminate a truncated capillary fringe as a possible contributor to these discrepancies. However, the neglect of horizontal flows in the fringe may have caused the discrepancies. (C) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Steepness expansion for free surface flows in coastal aquifers

Free surface flow of groundwater in aquifers has been studied since the early 1960s. Previous investigations have been based on the Boussinesq equation, derived from the non-linear kinematic boundary condition. In fact, the Boussinesq equation is the zeroth-order equation in the shallow-water expansion. A key assumption in this expansion is that the mean thickness of the aquifer is small compared with a reference length, normally taken to be the linear decay length. In this study, we re-examine the expansion scheme for free surface groundwater flows, and propose a new expansion wherein the shallow-water assumption is replaced by a steepness assumption. A comparison with experimental data shows that the new model provides a better prediction of water table levels than the conventional shallow-water expansion. The applicable ranges of the two expansions are exhibited. (c) 2004 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.