Two-dimensional approximation for tide-induced watertable fluctuations in a sloping sandy beach

The prediction of watertable fluctuations in a coastal aquifer is important for coastal management. However, most previous approaches have based on the one-dimensional Boussinesq equation, neglecting variations in the coastline and beach slope. In this paper, a closed-form analytical solution for a two-dimensional unconfined coastal aquifer bounded by a rhythmic coastline is derived. In the new model, the effect of beach slope is also included, a feature that has not been considered in previous two-dimensional approximations. Three small parameters, the shallow water parameter (epsilon), the amplitude parameter (a) and coastline parameter (beta) are used in the perturbation approximation. The numerical results demonstrate the significant influence of both the coastline shape and beach slopes on tide-driven coastal groundwater fluctuations. (c) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Swash-aquifer interaction in the vicinity of the water table exit point on a sandy beach

The coupling of sandy beach aquifers with the swash zone in the vicinity of the water table exit point is investigated through simultaneous measurements of the instantaneous shoreline (swash front) location, pore pressures and the water table exit point. The field observations reveal new insights into swash-aquifer coupling not previously gleaned from measurements of pore pressure only. In particular, for the case where the exit point is seaward of the observation point, the pore pressure response is correlated with the distance between the exit point and the shoreline in that when the distance is large the rate of pressure drop is fast and when the distance is small the rate decreases. The observations expose limitations in a simple model describing exit point dynamics which is based only on the force balance on a particle of water at the sand surface and neglects subsurface pressures. A new modified form of the model is shown to significantly improve the model-data comparison through a parameterization of the effects of capillarity into the aquifer storage coefficient. The model enables sufficiently accurate predictions of the exit point to determine when the swash uprush propagates over a saturated or a partially saturated sand surface, potentially an important factor in the morphological evolution of the beach face. Observations of the shoreward propagation of the swash-induced pore pressure waves ahead of the runup limit shows that the magnitude of the pressure fluctuation decays exponentially and that there is a linear increase in time lags, behavior similar to that of tidally induced water table waves. The location of the exit point and the intermittency of wave runup events is also shown to be significant in terms of the shore-normal energy distribution. Seaward of the mean exit point location, peak energies are small because of the saturated sand surface within the seepage face acting as a "rigid lid'' and limiting pressure fluctuations. Landward of the mean exit point the peak energies grow before decreasing landward of the maximum shoreline position.

Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f(w)=0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Mine waste beach profile and flow resistance equations

Four mine waste beach longitudinal profile equations are compared theoretically and in statistical analyses of profile data from 64 field and laboratory beaches formed by mine tailings, co-disposed coal mine wastes, and sand. All four equations fit the profile data well. The best performing equation both accounts for particle sorting and satisfies hydraulic constraints, and the combination of assumptions underlying it is considered to best represent the processes occurring on mine waste beaches. Combining these assumptions with the Lacey normal equation leads to a variant of the Manning resistance equation. Features that it is desirable to incorporate in theoretical and numerical models of mine waste beaches are listed.

Modelling the fate of chromated copper arsenate in a sandy soil

A pulse of chromated copper arsenate (CCA, a timber preservative) was applied in irrigation water to an undisturbed field soil in a laboratory column. Concentrations of various elements in the leachate from the column were measured during the experiment. Also, the remnants within the soil were measured at the end of the experiment. The geochemical modelling package, PHREEQC-2, was used to simulate the experimental data. Processes included in the CCA transport modelling were advection, dispersion, non-specific adsorption (cation exchange) and specific adsorption by clay minerals and organic matter, as well as other possible chemical reactions such as precipitation/dissolution. The modelling effort highlighted the possible complexities in CCA transport and reaction experiments. For example, the uneven dosing of CCA as well as incomplete knowledge of the soil properties resulted in simulations that gave only partial, although reasonable, agreement with the experimental data. Both the experimental data and simulations show that As and Cu are strongly adsorbed and therefore, will mostly remain at the top of the soil profile, with a small proportion appearing in leachate. On the other hand, Cr is more mobile and thus it is present in the soil column leachate. Further simulations show that both the quantity of CCA added to the soil and the pH of the irrigation water will influence CCA transport. Simulations suggest that application of larger doses of CCA to the soil will result in higher leachate concentrations, especially for Cu and As. Irrigation water with a lower pH will dramatically increase leaching of Cu. These results indicate that acidic rainfall or significant accidental spillage of CCA will increase the risk of groundwater pollution.

Increase of a Caribbean leatherback turtle Dermochelys coriacea nesting population linked to long-term nest protection

The leatherback turtle Dermochelys coriacea is considered to be at serious risk of global extinction, despite ongoing conservation efforts. Intensive long-term monitoring of a leatherback nesting population on Sandy Point (St. Croix, US Virgin Islands) offers a unique opportunity to quantify basic population parameters and evaluate effectiveness of nesting beach conservation practices. We report a significant increase in the number of females nesting annually from ca. 18-30 in the 1980s to 186 in 2001, with a corresponding increase in annual hatchling production from ca. 2000 to over 49,000. We then analyzed resighting data from 1991 to 2001 with an open robust-design capture-mark-recapture model to estimate annual nester survival and adult abundance for this population. The expected annual survival probability was estimated at ca. 0.893 (95% CL 0.87-0.92) and the population was estimated to be increasing ca. 13% pa since the early 1990s. Taken together with DNA fingerprinting that identify mother-daughter relations, our findings suggest that the increase in the size of the nesting population since 1991 was probably due to an aggressive program of beach protection and egg relocation initiated more than 20 years ago. Beach protection and egg relocation provide a simple and effective conservation strategy for this Northern Caribbean nesting population as long as adult survival at sea remains relatively high. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Application of a novel phytotoxicity assay for the detection of herbicides in Hervey Bay and the Great Sandy Straits

A novel phytotoxicity assay was incorporated into an environmental assessment of Hervey Bay and the Great Sandy Straits, to investigate the role of run-off associated herbicides in the deteriorated health of intertidal seagrass meadows. Dose response curves of common herbicides were performed and their toxicity equivalents elucidated to assist in analysis. The results of the assay were reproducible and corresponded strongly with results of chemical analyses. The incorporation of the assay into the assessment of surface waters added an important aspect to the study by allowing investigation of the toxicity of cumulative herbicide concentrations and yielding biologically relevant data. The highest herbicide concentration detected during the study was equivalent to 0.23 mu g 1(-1) diuron; a concentration known to inhibit photosynthetic efficiency of the assay biomaterial by approximately 3%. (c) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Tourists and beach safety in Queensland, Australia

Surf Life Saving Queensland (SLSQ) is a leading authority on beach safety, providing patrol, education, and rescue services to both tourists and local residents along the coast of Queensland, Australia. SLSQ recognizes that tourists are a target group requiring special attention due to their unfamiliarity with ocean beaches and surfing activities, and in some cases having the additional challenge of poor swimming skills, language barriers, and disorientation in a foreign vacation environment. This article describes SLSQ initiatives to provide beach safety for tourists through a focus on service delivery and partnerships with the tourism industry and relevant government agencies. The positive involvement of SLSQ in tourism is a model for other coastal destinations, given that drowning is the second most frequent cause of injury death among international travelers.

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.