Analytical solution and numerical model for the interface in a stratified long wave system

For a two layered long wave propagation, linearized governing equations, which were derived earlier from the Euler equations of mass and momentum assuming negligible friction and interfacial mixing are solved analytically using Fourier transform. For the solution, variations of upper layer water level is assumed to be sinosoidal having known amplitude and variations of interface level is solved. As the governing equations are too complex to solve it analytically, density of upper layer fluid is assumed as very close to the density of lower layer fluid to simplify the lower layer equation. A numerical model is developed using the staggered leap-forg scheme for computation of water level and discharge in one dimensional propagation having known amplitude for the variations of upper layer water level and interface level to be solved. For the numerical model, water levels (upper layer and interface) at both the boundaries are assumed to be known from analytical solution. Results of numerical model are verified by comparing with the analytical solutions for different time period. Good agreements between analytical solution and numerical model are found for the stated boundary condition. The reliability of the developed numerical model is discussed, using it for different a (ratio of density of fluid in the upper layer to that in the lower layer) and p (ratio of water depth in the lower layer to that in the upper layer) values. It is found that as ‘CX’ increases amplification of interface also increases for same upper layer amplitude. Again for a constant lower layer depth, as ‘p’ increases amplification of interface. also increases for same upper layer amplitude.

The application of wave induced forces to a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model

This paper describes the modification of a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model in order to predict the net current and water levels attributable to the influences of waves. Tests examine the effects of the application of wave induced forces, including comparisons to a physical experiment. An example of a real river system is presented with comparisons to measured data, which demonstrate the importance of simulating the combined effects of tides and waves upon hydrodynamic behavior. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Parameters affecting the performance of wetting and drying in a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model

The marsh porosity method, a type of thin slot wetting and drying algorithm in a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model, is discussed and analyzed to assess model performance. Tests, including comparisons to simple examples and theoretical calculations, examine the effects of varying the marsh porosity parameters. The findings demonstrate that the wetting and drying concept of marsh porosity, often used in finite element hydrodynamic modeling, can behave in a more complex manner than initially expected.

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Field observations of instantaneous water slopes and horizontal pressure gradients in the swash-zone

Field observations of instantaneous water surface slopes in the swash zone are presented. For free-surface flows with a hydrostatic pressure distribution the surface slope is equivalent to the horizontal pressure gradient. Observations were made using a novel technique which in its simplest form consists of a horizontal stringline extending seaward from the beach face. Visual observation, still photography or video photography is then sufficient to determine the surface slope where the free-surface cuts the line or between reference points in the image. The method resolves the mean surface gradient over a cross-shore distance of 5 m or more to within +/- 0.001, or 1/20th -1/100th of typical beach gradients. In addition, at selected points and at any instant in time during the swash cycle, the water surface slope can be determined exactly to be dipping either seaward or landward. Close to the location of bore collapse landward dipping water surface slopes of order 0.05-0.1 occur over a very small region (order 0.5 m) at the blunt or convex leading edge of the swash. In the middle and upper swash the water surface slope at this leading edge is usually very close to horizontal or slightly seaward. Behind the leading edge, the water surface slope was observed to be very close to horizontal or dipping seaward at all times throughout the swash uprush. During the backwash the water surface slope was observed to be always dipping seaward, approaching the beach slope, and remained seaward until a new uprush edge or incident bore passed any particular cross-shore location of interest. The observations strongly Suggest that the swash boundary layer is subject to an adverse pressure gradient during uprush and a favourable pressure gradient during the backwash. Furthermore, assuming Euler's equations are a good approximation in the swash, the observations also show that the total fluid acceleration is negative (offshore) for almost the whole of the uprush and for the entire backwash. The observations are contrary to recent work suggesting significant shoreward directed accelerations and pressure gradients occur in the swash (i.e., delta u/delta t > 0 similar to delta p/delta x < 0), but consistent with analytical and numerical solutions for swash uprush and backwash. The results have important implications for sediment transport modelling in the swash zone.

Dynamics of a transient wave group breaking on a beach

New experimental data are presented on the dynamics of a transient wave group breaking on a beach. The transient group is tracked during shoaling and wave breaking, together with the long waves forced during those processes. High spatial sampling enables novel resolution of the evolution of the wave envelope during breaking and the correlation between the envelope and the long waves. The data show a strong dynamic long wave setup in front of the group in shallow water. The amplitude of the dynamic setup is likely to be a function of beach slope, and larger on steeper beaches.

Bed shear stress measurements in dam break and swash flows

A novel shear plate was used to make direct bed shear stress measurements in laboratory dam break and swash flows on smooth, fixed, impermeable beds. The pressure gradient due to the slope of the fluid free-surface across the plate was measured using pressure transducers. Surface elevation was measured at five locations using acoustic displacement sensors. Flow velocity was measured using an Acoustic-Doppler Velocimeter and calculated using the ANUGA inundation model. The measured bed shear stress at the dam break fluid tip for an initially dry, horizontal bed was close to twice that estimated using steady flow theory. The temporal variation of swash bed shear stress showed a large peak in landward directed stress at the uprush tip, followed by a rapid decay throughout the uprush flow interior. The peak seaward directed stress during the backwash phase was less than half that measured in the uprush. Close to the still water line, in the region of bore collapse and at the time of initial uprush, favourable pressure gradients were measured. In the lower swash region predominately weak adverse pressure gradients were measured.

Oral disease in animals: The Australian perspective. Isolation and characterisation of black-pigmented bacteria from the oral cavity of marsupials

A wide range of animals suffer from periodontal disease. However, there is very little reported on disease and oral micro-biota of Australian animals. Therefore, the oral cavity of 90 marsupials was examined for oral health status. Plaque samples were collected from the subgingival margins using curettes; or swabs. Plaque samples were plated onto. non-selective trypticase soy agar plates, selective trypticase soy agar, non-selective and selective Wilkens Chalgrens, Agar. Plates were incubated in an anaerobic atmosphere and examined after 7-14 days for the presence of black-brown-pigmented colonies. A combination of morphological and biochemical tests were used (colonial morphology, pigmentation, aerobic growth, Gram reaction, fluorescence under long-wave UV light (360 nm), production of catalase, enzymatic activity with fluorogenic substrates and haemagglutination of sheep red cells) to identify these organisms. Black-pigmented bacteria were cultivated from the plaque of 32 animals including six eastern grey kangaroos, a musky rat kangaroo, a whiptail and a red-necked wallaby, 18 koalas, a bandicoot and five brushtail possums. No black-pigmented colonies were cultivated from squirrel or sugar gliders or quokkas or from marsupial mice. The majority of isolates were identified as Porphyromonas gingivalis-like species with the higher prevalence of isolation from the oral cavity of macropods (the kangaroos and wallabies). Oral diseases, such as gingivitis can be found in native Australian animals with older koalas having an increase in disease indicators and black-pigmented bacteria. Non-selective Wilkens Chalgren Agar was the medium of choice for the isolation of black-pigmented bacteria. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.