Parameters affecting the performance of wetting and drying in a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model

The marsh porosity method, a type of thin slot wetting and drying algorithm in a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model, is discussed and analyzed to assess model performance. Tests, including comparisons to simple examples and theoretical calculations, examine the effects of varying the marsh porosity parameters. The findings demonstrate that the wetting and drying concept of marsh porosity, often used in finite element hydrodynamic modeling, can behave in a more complex manner than initially expected.

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Analytical solution and numerical model for the interface in a stratified long wave system

For a two layered long wave propagation, linearized governing equations, which were derived earlier from the Euler equations of mass and momentum assuming negligible friction and interfacial mixing are solved analytically using Fourier transform. For the solution, variations of upper layer water level is assumed to be sinosoidal having known amplitude and variations of interface level is solved. As the governing equations are too complex to solve it analytically, density of upper layer fluid is assumed as very close to the density of lower layer fluid to simplify the lower layer equation. A numerical model is developed using the staggered leap-forg scheme for computation of water level and discharge in one dimensional propagation having known amplitude for the variations of upper layer water level and interface level to be solved. For the numerical model, water levels (upper layer and interface) at both the boundaries are assumed to be known from analytical solution. Results of numerical model are verified by comparing with the analytical solutions for different time period. Good agreements between analytical solution and numerical model are found for the stated boundary condition. The reliability of the developed numerical model is discussed, using it for different a (ratio of density of fluid in the upper layer to that in the lower layer) and p (ratio of water depth in the lower layer to that in the upper layer) values. It is found that as ‘CX’ increases amplification of interface also increases for same upper layer amplitude. Again for a constant lower layer depth, as ‘p’ increases amplification of interface. also increases for same upper layer amplitude.

The application of wave induced forces to a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model

This paper describes the modification of a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model in order to predict the net current and water levels attributable to the influences of waves. Tests examine the effects of the application of wave induced forces, including comparisons to a physical experiment. An example of a real river system is presented with comparisons to measured data, which demonstrate the importance of simulating the combined effects of tides and waves upon hydrodynamic behavior. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Sheet flow sediment transport under waves with acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming

The effect of acceleration skewness on sheet flow sediment transport rates (q) over bar (s) is analysed using new data which have acceleration skewness and superimposed currents but no boundary layer streaming. Sediment mobilizing forces due to drag and to acceleration (similar to pressure gradients) are weighted by cosine and sine, respectively, of the angle phi(.)(tau)phi(tau) = 0 thus corresponds to drag dominated sediment transport, (q) over bar (s)similar to vertical bar u(infinity)vertical bar u(infinity), while phi(tau) = 90 degrees corresponds to total domination by the pressure gradients, (q) over bar similar to du(infinity)/dt. Using the optimal angle, phi = 51 degrees based on that data, good agreement is subsequently found with data that have strong influence from boundary layer streaming. Good agreement is also maintained with the large body of U-tube data simulating sine waves with superimposed currents and second-order Stokes waves, all of which have zero acceleration skewness. The recommended model can be applied to irregular waves with arbitrary shape as long as the assumption negligible time lag between forcing and sediment transport rate is valid. With respect to irregular waves, the model is much easier to apply than the competing wave-by-wave models. Issues for further model developments are identified through a comprehensive data review.

Dynamics of a transient wave group breaking on a beach

New experimental data are presented on the dynamics of a transient wave group breaking on a beach. The transient group is tracked during shoaling and wave breaking, together with the long waves forced during those processes. High spatial sampling enables novel resolution of the evolution of the wave envelope during breaking and the correlation between the envelope and the long waves. The data show a strong dynamic long wave setup in front of the group in shallow water. The amplitude of the dynamic setup is likely to be a function of beach slope, and larger on steeper beaches.

Oral disease in animals: The Australian perspective. Isolation and characterisation of black-pigmented bacteria from the oral cavity of marsupials

A wide range of animals suffer from periodontal disease. However, there is very little reported on disease and oral micro-biota of Australian animals. Therefore, the oral cavity of 90 marsupials was examined for oral health status. Plaque samples were collected from the subgingival margins using curettes; or swabs. Plaque samples were plated onto. non-selective trypticase soy agar plates, selective trypticase soy agar, non-selective and selective Wilkens Chalgrens, Agar. Plates were incubated in an anaerobic atmosphere and examined after 7-14 days for the presence of black-brown-pigmented colonies. A combination of morphological and biochemical tests were used (colonial morphology, pigmentation, aerobic growth, Gram reaction, fluorescence under long-wave UV light (360 nm), production of catalase, enzymatic activity with fluorogenic substrates and haemagglutination of sheep red cells) to identify these organisms. Black-pigmented bacteria were cultivated from the plaque of 32 animals including six eastern grey kangaroos, a musky rat kangaroo, a whiptail and a red-necked wallaby, 18 koalas, a bandicoot and five brushtail possums. No black-pigmented colonies were cultivated from squirrel or sugar gliders or quokkas or from marsupial mice. The majority of isolates were identified as Porphyromonas gingivalis-like species with the higher prevalence of isolation from the oral cavity of macropods (the kangaroos and wallabies). Oral diseases, such as gingivitis can be found in native Australian animals with older koalas having an increase in disease indicators and black-pigmented bacteria. Non-selective Wilkens Chalgren Agar was the medium of choice for the isolation of black-pigmented bacteria. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.