Absorption of sunscreens across human skin: an evaluation of commercial products for children and adults

Aims Topical sunscreens are routinely applied to the skin by a large percentage of the population. This study assessed the extent of absorption of a number of common chemical sunscreen agents into and through human skin following application of commercially available products. Methods Sunscreen products were applied to excised human epidermis in Franz diffusion cells with the amount penetrating into and across the epidermis assessed by h.p.l.c. for 8 h following application. Results All sunscreen agents investigated penetrated into the skin (0.25 g m(-2) or 14% of applied dose), but only benzophenone-3 passed through the skin in significant amounts (0.08 g m(-2) or 10% of the applied dose). With one exception, suncreen agents in corresponding products marketed for adults and children had similar skin penetration profiles. Conclusions Whilst limited absorption across the skin was observed for the majority of the sunscreens tested, benzophenone-3 demonstrated sufficiently high penetration to warrant further investigation of its continued application.

G2 phase cell cycle arrest in human skin following UV irradiation

The contribution of the short wavelength ultraviolet (UV) component of sunlight to the aetiology of skin cancer has been widely acknowledged, although its direct contribution to tumour initiation or progression is still poorly understood. The loss of normal cell cycle controls, particularly checkpoint controls, are a common feature of cancer. UV radiation causes both GI and G2 phase checkpoint arrest in vitro cultured cells. In this study we have investigated the cell cycle responses to suberythemal doses of UV on skin. We have utilized short-term whole organ skin cultures, and multi parameter immunohistochemical and biochemical analysis to demonstrate that basal and suprabasal layer melanocytes and keratinocytes undergo a G2 phase cell cycle arrest for up to 48 h following irradiation. The arrest is associated with increased p16 expression but no apparent p53 involvement. This type of organ culture provides a very useful model system, combining the ease of in vitro manipulation with the ability to perform detailed molecular analysis in a normal tissue environment.

Can increasing the viscosity of formulations be used to reduce the human skin penetration of the sunscreen oxybenzone?

The effect of adding thickening agents on the penetration of a sunscreen benzophenone-3 through epidermal and a high-density polyethylene membrane was studied using both very thick (infinite dose) and thin tin use) applications. Contradictory results were obtained. Thickening agents retard skin penetration, in a manner consistent with a diffusional resistance in the formulation, when applied as an infinite dose. In contrast, when applied as in thin (in use) doses, thickening agents promote penetration, most likely through greater stratum corneum diffusivity arising from an enhanced hydration by the thicker formulations. The two key implications from this work are (i) a recognition of the danger in the potential extrapolation of infinite dosing to in use situations, and (ii) to recognize that thicker formulations may sometimes enhance the penetration of other topical agents when applied in use.

alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone potentiates p16/CDKN2A expression in human skin after ultraviolet irradiation

The contribution of the UV component of sunlight to the development of skin cancer is widely acknowledged, although the molecular mechanisms that are disrupted by UV radiation (UVR) resulting in the loss of normal growth controls of the epidermal stem cell keratinocytes and melanocytes is still poorly understood. alpha-Melanocyte stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH), acting via its receptor MC1, has a key role in skin pigmentation and the melanizing response after exposure to UVR. The cell cycle inhibitor p16/CDKN2A also appears to have an important function in a cell cycle checkpoint response in skin after exposure to UVR. Both of these genes have been identified as risk factors in skin cancer, MC1R variants are associated with increased risk to both melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers, and p16/CDKN2A with increased risk of melanoma. Here we demonstrate that the increased expression of p16 after exposure to sub-erythemal doses of UVR is potentiated by alpha-MSH, a ligand for MC1R, and this effect is mimicked by cAMP, the intracellular mediator of alpha-MSH signaling via the MC1 receptor. This link between p16 and MC1R may provide a molecular basis for the increased skin cancer risk associated with MC1R polymorphisms.

Induction of metallothionein in human skin by routine exposure to sunlight: Evidence for a systemic response and enhanced induction at certain body sites

Expression of metallothionein, an antioxidant induced by a variety of stimuli including ultraviolet light, was quantitated by immunohistochemistry in the skin of males aged over 50 who had known short- and long-term exposures to sunlight. Skin punch biopsies were taken from two sites in each subject: the hand in all subjects and a range of other sites matched to patients with a previously excised primary melanoma. Metallothionein expression (strongest in the basal layers of the epidermis and primarily nuclear) was associated with both short- and long-term exposure to sunlight. A plateau of staining intensity was reached after 3 h sun exposure, within the previous 3 d before biopsy. Expression was also elevated in the nonexposed skin sites of subjects who had recent sun exposure, indicating a systemic response to exposure of remote sites. Using the skin of the hand to normalize responses to chronic exposure between individuals, the systemically modulated response to sunlight was significantly greater on the unexposed back than on other sites. The possibility of ultraviolet-induced cytokines selectively modifying the response of skin on a site-specific basis was investigated. The circulating leukocytes, but not lymphocytes, of two individuals exposed to 1 minimal erythema dose whole-body solar-simulated ultraviolet showed increased interleukin-6 mRNA 4 h after exposure. Interleukin-6 was not directly induced in these cell populations 4 h after ultraviolet A or ultraviolet B irradiation ex vivo . Leukocytes may therefore contribute to and amplify the systemic effects of ultraviolet-induced interleukin-6 and metallothionein expression.

Determination of the effect of lipophilicity on the in vitro permeability and tissue reservoir characteristics of topically applied solutes in human skin layers

In order to establish the relationship between solute lipophilicity and skin penetration (including flux and concentration behavior), we examined the in vitro penetration and membrane concentration of a series of homologous alcohols (C2-C10) applied topically in aqueous solutions to human epidermal, full-thickness, and dermal membranes. The partitioning/distribution of each alcohol between the donor solution, stratum corneum, viable epidermis, dermis, and receptor phase compartments was determined during the penetration process and separately to isolated samples of each tissue type. Maximum flux and permeability coefficients are compared for each membrane and estimates of alcohol diffusivity are made based on flux/concentration data and also the related tissue resistance (the reciprocal of permeability coefficient) for each membrane type. The permeability coefficient increased with increasing lipophilicity to alcohol C8 (octanol) with no further increase for C10 (decanol). Log vehicle:stratum corneum partition coefficients were related to logP , and the concentration of alcohols in each of the tissue layers appeared to increase with lipophilicity. No difference was measured in the diffusivity of smaller more polar alcohols in the three membranes; however, the larger more lipophilic solutes showed slower diffusivity values. The study showed that the dermis may be a much more lipophilic environment than originally believed and that distribution of smaller nonionized solutes into local tissues below a site of topical application may be estimated based on knowledge of their lipophilicity alone.

Analyzing checkpoint controls in human skin

A short-term whole-skin organ culture model has been established to enable the investigation of cell cycle perturbations in epidermal layer cells following exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). This model affords the opportunity to manipulate the growth and nutrient conditions, and to perform detailed biochemical and immunohistochemical analysis of skin cells in their normal epidermal layer microenvironment. The use of this model is described in this chapter.

Regulation of antigen processing and presentation molecules in West Nile virus-infected human skin fibroblasts

Infection of humans with the West Nile flavivirus principally occurs via tick and mosquito bites. Here, we document the expression of antigen processing and presentation molecules in West Nile virus (WNV)-infected human skin fibroblast (HFF) cells. Using a new Flavivirus-specific antibody, 4G4, we have analyzed cell surface human leukocyte antigen (HLA) expression on virus-infected cells at a single cell level. Using this approach, we show that West Nile Virus infection alters surface HLA expression on both infected HFF and neighboring uninfected HFF cells. Interestingly, increased surface HLA evident on infected HFF cultures is almost entirely due to virus-induced interferon (IFN)alpha/beta because IFNalpha/beta-neutralizing antibodies completely prevent increased surface HLA expression. In contrast, RT-PCR analysis indicates that WNV infection results in increased mRNAs for HLA-A, -B, and -C genes, and HLA-associated molecules low molecular weight polypeptide-2 (LMP-2) and transporter associated with antigen presentation-1 (TAP-1), but induction of these mRNAs is not diminished in HFF cells cultured with IFNalpha/beta-neutralizing antibodies. Taken together, these data support the idea that that both cytokine-dependent and cytokine-independent mechanisms account for WNV-induced HLA expression in human skin fibroblasts. (C) 2004 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Sunscreen penetration of human skin and related keratinocyte toxicity after topical application

Sunscreen skin penetration and safety assessment should be considered together in order to ensure that in vitro cytotoxicity studies examine relevant doses of these organic chemical UV filters to which viable epidermal cells are realistically exposed. In this study, we sought to determine whether sufficient topically applied sunscreens penetrated into human viable epidermis to put the local keratinocyte cell populations at risk of toxicity. The penetration and retention of five commonly used sunscreen agents ( avobenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, oxybenzone and padimate O) in human skin was evaluated after application in mineral oil to isolated human epidermal membranes. Sunscreen concentration - human keratinocyte culture response curves were then defined using changes in cell morphology and proliferation ( DNA synthesis using radiolabelled thymidine uptake studies) as evidence of sunscreens causing toxicity. Following 24 h of human epidermal exposure to sunscreens, detectable amounts of all sunscreens were present in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis, with epidermal penetration most evident with oxybenzone. The concentrations of each sunscreen found in human viable epidermis after topical application, adjusting for skin partitioning and binding effects, were at least 5-fold lower, based on levels detected in viable epidermal cells, than those appearing to cause toxicity in cultured human keratinocytes. It is concluded that the human viable epidermal levels of sunscreens are too low to cause any significant toxicity to the underlying human keratinocytes. Copyright (C) 2005 S. Karger AG, Basel.

Quantitative analysis of MC1R gene expression in human skin cell cultures

To address the issue of melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) expression in non-melanocytic cells, we have quantitatively evaluated the relative expression levels of both MC1R mRNA and protein in a subset of different cell types. Using semi-quantitative reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) at high cycle numbers, we detected MC1R mRNA in all cell types examined, including human embryonic kidney-293 (HEK 293) cells, a cell type widely used as a negative control in melanocortin expression studies. Quantitative real-time PCR revealed the highest levels of MC1R transcripts were in melanocytic cells, whereas the keratinocyte and fibroblast cell cultures examined had only a low level of expression, similar to that of HEK 293 cells. Antibody mediated detection of MC1R protein in membrane extracts demonstrated exogenous receptor in MC1R transfected cell lines, as well as endogenous MC1R in melanoma cells. However, radioligand binding procedures were required to detect MC1R protein of normal human melanocytes and no surface expression of MC1R was detected in any of the non-melanocytic cells examined. This was consistent with their low level of mRNA, and suggests that, if present, the levels of surface receptor are significantly lower than that in melanocytes. The capacity of such limited levels of MC1R protein to influence non-melanocytic skin cell biology would likely be severely compromised. Indeed, the MC1R agonist [NIe(4), D-Phe(7)] alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (NDP-MSH) was unable to elevate intracellular cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) levels in the keratinocyte and fibroblast cells examined, whereas a robust increase was elicited in melanocytes. Although there are a variety of cell types with detectable MC1R mRNA, the expression of physiologically significant levels of the receptor may be more restricted than the current literature indicates, and within epidermal tissue may be limited to the melanocyte

Percutaneous absorption of steroids: Determination of in vitro permeability and tissue reservoir characteristics in human skin layers

The skin localization of steroids following topical application is largely unknown. We determined the distribution of five steroids in human skin using excised epidermal, dermal, and full-thickness membranes in vitro. There was no significant difference in steroid maximum flux through epidermal and full-thickness membranes, other than significantly lower fluxes for the most polar steroid, aldosterone. Hydrocortisone had the highest dermal diffusivity and dermal penetration, and the accumulation of hydrocortisone and corticosterone was higher than that of the other steroids. Slower penetration and higher accumulation in the viable epidermis of progesterone in full-thickness skin were consistent with dermal penetration limitation effects associated with high lipophilicity. Copyright (c) 2006 S. Karger AG, Basel

Genetic association and cellular function of MC1R variant alleles in human pigmentation

We have examined MC1R variant allele frequencies in the general population of South East Queensland and in a collection of adolescent dizygotic and monozygotic twins and family members to define statistical associations with hair and skin color, freckling, and mole count. Results of these studies are consistent with a linear recessive allelic model with multiplicative penetrance in the inheritance of red hair. Four alleles, D84E, R151C, R160W, and D294H, are strongly associated with red hair and fair skin with multinomial regression analysis showing odds ratios of 63, 118, 50, and 94, respectively. An additional three low-penetrance alleles V60L, V92M, and R163Q have odds ratios 6, 5, and 2 relative to the wild-type allele. To address the cellular effects of MC1R variant alleles in signal transduction, we expressed these receptors in permanently transfected HEK293 cells. Measurement of receptor activity via induction of a cAMP-responsive luciferase reporter gene found that the R151C and R160W receptors were active in the presence of NDP-MSH ligand, but at much reduced levels compared with that seen with the wild-type receptor. The ability to stimulate phosphorylation of the cAMP response element binding protein (CREB) transcription factor was also apparent in all stimulated MC1R variant allele-expressing HEK293 cell extracts as assessed by immunoblotting. In contrast, human melanoma cell lines showed wide variation in the their ability to undergo cAMP-mediated CREB phosphorylation. Culture of human melanocytes of known MC1R genotype may provide the best experimental approach to examine the functional consequences for each MC1R variant allele. With this objective, we have established more than 300 melanocyte cell strains of defined MC1R genotype.

The role of melanocortin-1 receptor polymorphism in skin cancer risk phenotypes

We have examined melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) variant allele frequencies in the general population and in a collection of adolescent dizygotic and monozygotic twins to determine statistical associations of pigmentation phenotypes with increased skin cancer risk. This included hair and skin color, freckling, mole count and sun exposed skin reflectance. Nine variants were studied and designated as either strong R (OR = 63; 95% CI 32-140) or weak r (OR = 5; 95% CI 3-11) red hair alleles. Penetrance of each MC1R variant allele was consistent with an allelic model where effects were multiplicative for red hair but additive for skin reflectance. To assess the interaction of the brown eye color gene BEY2/OCA2 on the phenotypic effects of variant MC1R alleles we imputed OCA2 genotype in the twin collection. A modifying effect of OCA2 on MC1R variant alleles was seen on constitutive skin color, freckling and mole count. In order to study the individual effects of these variants on pigmentation phenotype we have established a series of human primary melanocyte strains genotyped for the MC1R receptor. These include strains which are MC1R wild-type consensus, variant heterozygotes, and homozygotes for strong R alleles Arg151Cys and Arg160Trp. Ultrastructural analysis demonstrated that only consensus strains contained stage III and IV melanosomes in their terminal dendrites whereas Arg151Cys and Arg160Trp homozygous strains contained only immature stage I and II melanosomes. Such genetic association studies combined with the functional analysis of MC1R variant alleles in melanocytic cells should provide a link in understanding the association between pigmentary phototypes and skin cancer risk.