Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Ultrasonic measurement technique of burning metals in normal and reduced gravity

The in situ real time measurement of the regression rate of a melting interface (RRMI) is performed by the ultrasonic measurement system reported here. The RRMI is the rate at which a solid/liquid interface (SLI) moves along a metallic rod while burning in an oxygen-enriched atmosphere and is an important flatnmability indicator. The ultrasonic transducer and associated equipment used to drive the transducer and record the echo signal is described, along with the process that transforms the acquired signals into a RRMI value. Test rods of various metals and geometric shapes were burned at several test conditions in different test facilities. The RRMI results with quantified errors are presented and reviewed. The effect of reduced gravity on burning metals is important to space-applications and RRMI results obtained in a reduced gravity environment are also presented.