Response of coastal groundwater table to offshore storms

Large groundwater table fluctuations were observed in a coastal aquifer during an offshore storm. The storm induced significant changes of the mean shoreline elevation, characterized by a pulse-like oscillation. This pulse propagated in the aquifer, resulting in the water table fluctuations. A general analytical solution is derived to quantify this new mechanism of water table fluctuation. The solution is applied to field observations and is found to be able to predict reasonably well the observed storm-induced water table fluctuations. Based on the analytical solution, the damping characteristics and phase shift of the oscillation as it propagates inland are examined.

Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f(w)=0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Wave-generated flow on coral reefs - an analysis for two-dimensional horizontal reef-tops with steep faces

Waves breaking on the seaward rim of a coral reef generate a flow of water from the exposed side of the reef to the sheltered side and/or to either channels through the reef-rim or lower sections of the latter. This wave-generated flow is driven by the water surface gradient resulting from the wave set-up created by the breaking waves. This paper reviews previous approaches to modelling wave-generated flows across coral reefs and discusses the influence of reef morphology and roughness upon these flows. Laboratory measurements upon a two-dimensional horizontal reef platform with a steep reef face provide the basis for extending a previous theoretical analysis for wave set-up on a reef in the absence of a flow [Gourlay, M.R., 1996b. Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles. Coastal Engineering 28, 1755] to include the interaction between a unidirectional flow and the wave set-up. The laboratory model results are then used to demonstrate that there are two basic reef-top flow regimes-reef-top control and reef-rim control. Using open channel flow theory, analytical relationships are derived for the reef-top current velocity in terms of the offreef wave conditions, the reef-top water depth and the physical characteristics of the reef-top topography. The wave set-up and wave-generated flow relationships are found to predict experimental values with reasonable accuracy in most cases. The analytical relationships are used to investigate wave-generated flows into a boat harbour channel on Heron Reef in the southern Great Barrier Reef. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Numerical solutions of the sediment conservation law: A review and improved formulation for coastal morphological modelling

Numerical solutions of the sediment conservation law are reviewed in terms of their application to bed update schemes in coastal morphological models. It is demonstrated that inadequately formulated numerical techniques lead to the introduction of diffusion, dispersion and the bed elevation oscillations previously reported in the literature. Four different bed update schemes are then reviewed and tested against benchmark analytical solutions. These include a first order upwind scheme, two Lax-Wendroff schemes and a non-oscillating centred scheme (NOCS) recently applied to morphological modelling by Saint-Cast [Saint-Cast, F., 2002. Modelisation de la morphodynamique des corps sableux en milieu littoral (Modelling of coastal sand banks morphodynamics), University Bordeaux 1, Bordeaux, 245 pp.]. It is shown that NOCS limits and controls numerical errors while including all the sediment flux gradients that control morphological change. Further, no post solution filtering is required, which avoids difficulties with selecting filter strength. Finally, NOCS is compared to a recent Lax-Wendroff scheme with post-solution filtering for a longer term simulation of the morphological evolution around a trained river entrance. (C) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs

An extended refraction-diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97-126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation [epsilon(b)] = (alpha rho g omega/8 pi)(root gh/C)(H-3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay [Gourlayl M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17-42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient alpha and F-c0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Phosphate uptake and growth kinetics of Trichodesmium (Cyanobacteria) isolates from the North Atlantic Ocean and the Great Barrier Reef, Australia

We compared inorganic phosphate (P-i) uptake and growth kinetics of two cultures of the diazotrophic cyanobacterium Trichodesmium isolated from the North Atlantic Ocean (IMS101) and from the Great Barrier Reef, Australia (GBRTRLI101). Phosphate-limited cultures had up to six times higher maximum P-i uptake rates than P-replete cultures in both strains. For strain GBRTRLI101, cell-specific P-i uptake rates were nearly twice as high, due to larger cell size, but P-specific maximum uptake rates were similar for both isolates. Half saturation constants were 0.4 and 0.6 muM for P-i uptake and 0.1 and 0.2 muM for growth in IMS101 and GBRTRLI101, respectively. Phosphate uptake in both strains was correlated to growth rates rather than to light or temperature. The cellular phosphorus quota for both strains increased with increasing P-i up to 1.0 muM. The C:P ratios were 340-390 and N:P ratios were 40-45 for both strains under severely P-limited growth conditions, similar to reported values for natural populations from the tropical Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The C:P and N:P ratios were near Redfield values in medium with >1.0 muM P-i. The North Atlantic strain IMS101 is better adapted to growing on P-i at low concentrations than is GBRTRLI101 from the more P-i-enriched Great Barrier Reef. However, neither strain can achieve appreciable growth at the very low (nanomolar) P-i concentrations found in most oligotrophic regimes. Phosphate could be an important source of phosphorus for Trichodesmium on the Great Barrier Reef, but populations growing in the oligotrophic open ocean must rely primarily on dissolved organic phosphorus sources.