Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for sheet flow under waves

A simple method is provided for calculating transport rates of not too fine (d(50) greater than or equal to 0.20 mm) sand under sheet flow conditions. The method consists of a Meyer-Peter-type transport formula operating on a time-varying Shields parameter, which accounts for both acceleration-asymmetry and boundary layer streaming. While velocity moment formulae, e.g.., = Constant x calibrated against U-tube measurements, fail spectacularly under some real waves (Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., McLean, S.R., Vincent, C., 2000. Near-bed sand transport mechanisms under waves. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, ASCE, New York, pp. 3263-3276, Fig. 12), the new method predicts the real wave observations equally well. The reason that the velocity moment formulae fail under these waves is partly the presence of boundary layer streaming and partly the saw-tooth asymmetry, i.e., the front of the waves being steeper than the back. Waves with saw-tooth asymmetry may generate a net landward sediment transport even if = 0, because of the more abrupt acceleration under the steep front. More abrupt accelerations are associated with thinner boundary layers and greater pressure gradients for a given velocity magnitude. The two real wave effects are incorporated in a model of the form Q(s)(t) = Q(s)[theta(t)] rather than Q(S)(t) = Q(S)[u(infinity)(t)], i.e., by expressing the transport rate in terms of an instantaneous Shields parameter rather than in terms of the free stream velocity, and accounting for both streaming and accelerations in the 0(t) calculations. The instantaneous friction velocities u(*)(t) and subsequently theta(t) are calculated as follows. Firstly, a linear filter incorporating the grain roughness friction factor f(2.5) and a phase angle phi(tau) is applied to u(infinity)(t). This delivers u(*)(t) which is used to calculate an instantaneous grain roughness Shields parameter theta(2.5)(t). Secondly, a constant bed shear stress is added which corresponds to the streaming related bed shear stress -rho ($) over bar((u) over tilde(w) over tilde)(infinity) . The method can be applied to any u(infinity)(t) time series, but further experimental validation is recommended before application to conditions that differ strongly from the ones considered below. The method is not recommended for rippled beds or for sheet flow with typical prototype wave periods and d(50) < 0.20 turn. In such scenarios, time lags related to vertical sediment movement become important, and these are not considered by the present model. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Wave-generated flow on coral reefs - an analysis for two-dimensional horizontal reef-tops with steep faces

Waves breaking on the seaward rim of a coral reef generate a flow of water from the exposed side of the reef to the sheltered side and/or to either channels through the reef-rim or lower sections of the latter. This wave-generated flow is driven by the water surface gradient resulting from the wave set-up created by the breaking waves. This paper reviews previous approaches to modelling wave-generated flows across coral reefs and discusses the influence of reef morphology and roughness upon these flows. Laboratory measurements upon a two-dimensional horizontal reef platform with a steep reef face provide the basis for extending a previous theoretical analysis for wave set-up on a reef in the absence of a flow [Gourlay, M.R., 1996b. Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles. Coastal Engineering 28, 1755] to include the interaction between a unidirectional flow and the wave set-up. The laboratory model results are then used to demonstrate that there are two basic reef-top flow regimes-reef-top control and reef-rim control. Using open channel flow theory, analytical relationships are derived for the reef-top current velocity in terms of the offreef wave conditions, the reef-top water depth and the physical characteristics of the reef-top topography. The wave set-up and wave-generated flow relationships are found to predict experimental values with reasonable accuracy in most cases. The analytical relationships are used to investigate wave-generated flows into a boat harbour channel on Heron Reef in the southern Great Barrier Reef. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Coastal photograph: Aber Wrac'h, Pays du Léon, Bretagne

Aber Wrac’h, Pays du Léon, Bretagne. Aber Wrac’h, Bretagne, France, on 10 March 2004 at 13:30 (low tide) looking North (downstream) towards the Aber mouth and open sea between Lannilis and Plougerneau, Pays des Abers, Pays du Le´on. The word "Aber" is Britton (Breton) for a "fjord"-like estuary. Located on the Channel, the region "Pays des Abers" includes several deep incisions in the coastlines. The best known ‘‘Abers’’ are the Aber Wrac’h and Aber Benoit in the Pays du Léon, Finistere Nord.

Impact of Commercial Search Engines and International Databases on Engineering Teaching and Research

For the last three decades, the engineering higher education and professional environments have been completely transformed by the "electronic/digital information revolution" that has included the introduction of personal computer, the development of email and world wide web, and broadband Internet connections at home. Herein the writer compares the performances of several digital tools with traditional library resources. While new specialised search engines and open access digital repositories may fill a gap between conventional search engines and traditional references, these should be not be confused with real libraries and international scientific databases that encompass textbooks and peer-reviewed scholarly works. An absence of listing in some Internet search listings, databases and repositories is not an indication of standing. Researchers, engineers and academics should remember these key differences in assessing the quality of bibliographic "research" based solely upon Internet searches.

Two-dimensional approximation for tidal dynamics in coastal aquifers: Capillarity correction

Most previous investigations on tide-induced watertable fluctuations in coastal aquifers have been based on one-dimensional models that describe the processes in the cross-shore direction alone, assuming negligible along-shore variability. A recent study proposed a two-dimensional approximation for tide-induced watertable fluctuations that took into account coastline variations. Here, we further develop this approximation in two ways, by extending the approximation to second order and by taking into account capillary effects. Our results demonstrate that both effects can markedly influence watertable fluctuations. In particular, with the first-order approximation, the local damping rate of the tidal signal could be subject to sizable errors.

Spring-neap tide-induced beach water table fluctuations in a sloping coastal aquifer

Predictions of water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers are needed for numerous coastal and water resources engineering problems. Most previous investigations have been based on the Boussinesq equation for the case of a vertical beach. In this note an analytical solution based on shallow water expansion for the spring- neap tide- induced water table fluctuations in a coastal aquifer is presented. Unlike most previous investigations, multitidal signals are considered with a sloping coastal aquifer. The new solution is verified by comparing with field observations from Ardeer, Scotland. On the basis of the analytical approximation the influences of higher- order components on water table elevation are examined first. Then, a parametric study has been performed to investigate the effects of the amplitude ratio (lambda), frequency ratio (omega), and phases (delta(1) and delta(2)) on the tide- induced water table fluctuations in a sloping sandy beach.

Tidal influence on behaviour of a coastal aquifer adjacent to a low-relief estuary

The tidal influence on groundwater hydrodynamics, salt-water intrusion and submarine groundwater discharge from coastal/estuarine aquifers is poorly quantified for systems with a mildly sloping beach, in contrast to the case where a vertical beach face is assumed. We investigated the effect of beach slope for a coastal aquifer adjacent to a low-relief estuary, where industrial waste was emplaced over the aquifer. The waste was suspected to discharge leachate towards the estuary. Field observations at various locations showed that tidally induced groundwater head fluctuations were skewed temporally. Frequency analysis suggested that the fluctuation amplitudes decreased exponentially and the phase-tags increased Linearly for the primary tidal signals as they propagated inland. Salinisation zones were observed in the bottom part of the estuary and near the beach surface. Flow and transport processes in a cross-section perpendicular to the estuary were simulated using SEAWAT-2000, which is capable of depicting density-dependent flow and multi-species transport. The simulations showed that the modelled water table fluctuations were in good agreement with the monitored data. Further simulations were conducted to gain insight into the effects of beach slope. In particular the limiting case of a vertical beach face was considered. The simulations showed that density difference and tidal forcing drive a more complex hydrodynamic pattern for the mildly sloping beach than the vertical beach, as well as a profound asymmetry in tidally induced water table fluctuations and enhanced salt-water intrusion. The simulation results also indicated that contaminant transport from the aquifer to the estuary was affected by the tide, where for the mildly sloping beach, the tide tended to intensify the vertical mass exchange in the vicinity of the shorelines, (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Influence of seaward boundary condition on contaminant transport in unconfined coastal aquifers

Contaminant transport in coastal aquifers is complicated partly due to the conditions at the seaward boundary including seawater intrusion and tidal variations of sea level. Their inclusion in modelling this system will be computationally expensive. Therefore, it will be instructive to investigate the consequence of simplifying the seaward boundary condition by neglecting the seawater density and tidal variations in numerical predictions of contaminant transport in this zone. This paper presents a comparison of numerical predictions for a simplified seaward boundary condition with experimental results for a corresponding realistic one including a saltwater interface and tidal variations. Different densities for contaminants are considered. The comparison suggests that the neglect of the seawater intrusion and tidal variations does not affect noticeably the overall migration rate of the plume before it reaches the saltwater interface. However, numerical prediction shows that a more dense contaminant travels further seaward and part of the solute mass exits under the sea if the seawater density is not included. This is not consistent with the experimental result, which shows that the contaminant travels upwards to the shoreline along the saltwater interface. Neglect of seawater density, therefore, will result in an underestimation of the exit rate of solute mass around the coastline and fictitious migration paths under the seabed. For a less dense contaminant, neglect of seawater density has little effect on numerical prediction of migration paths. (C) 2001 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Experimental investigation of contaminant transport in coastal groundwater

Contaminant transport in coastal aquifers is of increasing interest since, with the development of coastal areas, contaminants from surface sources may enter coastal aquifers and pollute the groundwater flow. Coastal groundwater flow is complicated because of the presence of a freshwater-saltwater diffusion zone and the tidal variation of sea level at the seaward end. This paper investigates experimentally the behaviour of contaminant plumes with different densities in an unconfined coastal aquifer. Experiments were performed in a flow tank filled with glass beads as the porous medium. Results show that the dense contaminant has a more diffusive front than the less dense one in the seaward direction towards the coastline. The plume becomes more diffusive when it travels closer to the saltwater interface. On the contrary, the less dense contaminant presents a relatively sharp outline. It tends to migrate in the upper portion of the aquifer and exits in a concentrated manner over a small discharge area at the coastline, not further seaward under the sea. Non-dimensional parameters show that instabilities occur in our experiments for a density difference of 1.2% or larger between the contaminant and the ambient water. The experimental results provide guidance for field monitoring and numerical modelling. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Numerical modelling of contaminant transport in coastal aquifers

This paper employs a two-dimensional variable density flow and transport model to investigate the transport of a dense contaminant plume in an unconfined coastal aquifer. Experimental results are also presented to show the contaminant plume in a freshwater-seawater flow system. Both the numerical and experimental results suggest that the neglect of the seawater interface does not noticeably affect the horizontal migration rate of the plume before it reaches the interface. However, the contaminant will travel further seaward and part of the solute mass will exit under the sea if the higher seawater density is not included. If the seawater density is included, the contaminant will travel upwards towards the beach along the freshwater-saltwater interface as shown experimentally. Neglect of seawater density, therefore, will result in an underestimate of solute mass rate exiting around the coastline. (C) 2002 IMACS. Published by Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Tide-induced water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers bounded by rhythmic shorelines

Previous studies on tidal water table dynamics in unconfined coastal aquifers have focused on the inland propagation of oceanic tides in the cross-shore direction based on the assumption of a straight coastline. Here, two-dimensional analytical solutions are derived to study the effects of rhythmic coastlines on tidal water table fluctuations. The computational results demonstrate that the alongshore variations of the coastline can affect the water table behavior significantly, especially in areas near the centers of the headland and embayment. With the coastline shape effects ignored, traditional analytical solutions may lead to large errors in predicting coastal water table fluctuations or in estimating the aquifer's properties based on these signals. The conditions under which the coastline shape needs to be considered are derived from the new analytical solution.

Response of the salt-freshwater interface in a coastal aquifer to a wave-induced groundwater pulse: field observations and modelling

Field observations on an unconfined coastal aquifer showed that a groundwater pulse, generated by it moderate (significant wave height, H-sig similar to 4.5 m) wave/storm event, induced significant oscillations in the salt-freshwater interface of the order of several metres in the horizontal direction. A dynamic sharp-interface model is developed to quantify the mechanism of these interface oscillations. The model uses the 50% seawater salinity contour as the location of the equivalent sharp-interface. The model was calibrated against the observed groundwater table fluctuations. It predicted reasonably well the interface oscillations with a slight over-prediction of the oscillation magnitude and a steepening of the interface. The neglect of mixing in the salt-freshwater mixing zone by the sharp-interface model is suggested as a possible contributor to the discrepancies between the model predictions and observations. In contrast with the significant wave effects, there was no observable response of the interface to diurnal or semidiurnal tides. (C) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

A composite DOP approach to excluding bottom reflectance in mapping water parameters of shallow coastal zones from TM imagery

In this paper we proposed a composite depth of penetration (DOP) approach to excluding bottom reflectance in mapping water quality parameters from Landsat thematic mapper (TM) data in the shallow coastal zone of Moreton Bay, Queensland, Australia. Three DOPs were calculated from TM1, TM2 and TM3, in conjunction with bathymetric data, at an accuracy ranging from +/-5% to +/-23%. These depths were used to segment the image into four DOP zones. Sixteen in situ water samples were collected concurrently with the recording of the satellite image. These samples were used to establish regression models for total suspended sediment (TSS) concentration and Secchi depth with respect to a particular DOP zone. Containing identical bands and their transformations for both parameters, the models are linear for TSS concentration, logarithmic for Secchi depth. Based on these models, TSS concentration and Secchi depth were mapped from the satellite image in respective DOP zones. Their mapped patterns are consistent with the in situ observed ones. Spatially, overestimation and underestimation of the parameters are restricted to localised areas but related to the absolute value of the parameters. The mapping was accomplished more accurately using multiple DOP zones than using a single zone in shallower areas. The composite DOP approach enables the mapping to be extended to areas as shallow as <3 m. (C) 2004 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Response of coastal groundwater table to offshore storms

Large groundwater table fluctuations were observed in a coastal aquifer during an offshore storm. The storm induced significant changes of the mean shoreline elevation, characterized by a pulse-like oscillation. This pulse propagated in the aquifer, resulting in the water table fluctuations. A general analytical solution is derived to quantify this new mechanism of water table fluctuation. The solution is applied to field observations and is found to be able to predict reasonably well the observed storm-induced water table fluctuations. Based on the analytical solution, the damping characteristics and phase shift of the oscillation as it propagates inland are examined.