Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for sheet flow under waves

A simple method is provided for calculating transport rates of not too fine (d(50) greater than or equal to 0.20 mm) sand under sheet flow conditions. The method consists of a Meyer-Peter-type transport formula operating on a time-varying Shields parameter, which accounts for both acceleration-asymmetry and boundary layer streaming. While velocity moment formulae, e.g.., = Constant x calibrated against U-tube measurements, fail spectacularly under some real waves (Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., McLean, S.R., Vincent, C., 2000. Near-bed sand transport mechanisms under waves. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, ASCE, New York, pp. 3263-3276, Fig. 12), the new method predicts the real wave observations equally well. The reason that the velocity moment formulae fail under these waves is partly the presence of boundary layer streaming and partly the saw-tooth asymmetry, i.e., the front of the waves being steeper than the back. Waves with saw-tooth asymmetry may generate a net landward sediment transport even if = 0, because of the more abrupt acceleration under the steep front. More abrupt accelerations are associated with thinner boundary layers and greater pressure gradients for a given velocity magnitude. The two real wave effects are incorporated in a model of the form Q(s)(t) = Q(s)[theta(t)] rather than Q(S)(t) = Q(S)[u(infinity)(t)], i.e., by expressing the transport rate in terms of an instantaneous Shields parameter rather than in terms of the free stream velocity, and accounting for both streaming and accelerations in the 0(t) calculations. The instantaneous friction velocities u(*)(t) and subsequently theta(t) are calculated as follows. Firstly, a linear filter incorporating the grain roughness friction factor f(2.5) and a phase angle phi(tau) is applied to u(infinity)(t). This delivers u(*)(t) which is used to calculate an instantaneous grain roughness Shields parameter theta(2.5)(t). Secondly, a constant bed shear stress is added which corresponds to the streaming related bed shear stress -rho ($) over bar((u) over tilde(w) over tilde)(infinity) . The method can be applied to any u(infinity)(t) time series, but further experimental validation is recommended before application to conditions that differ strongly from the ones considered below. The method is not recommended for rippled beds or for sheet flow with typical prototype wave periods and d(50) < 0.20 turn. In such scenarios, time lags related to vertical sediment movement become important, and these are not considered by the present model. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Marine and estuarine reservoir effects in central Queensland, Australia: Determination of Delta R values

As a component of archaeological investigations on the central Queensland coast, a series of five marine shell specimens live-collected between A.D. 1904 and A.D. 1929 and 11 shell/ charcoal paired samples from archaeological contexts were radiocarbon dated to determine local DeltaR values. The object of the study was to assess the potential influence of localized variation in marine reservoir effect in accurately determining the age of marine and estuarine shell from archaeological deposits in the area. Results indicate that the routinely applied DeltaR value of -5 +/- 35 for northeast Australia is erroneously calculated. The determined values suggest a minor revision to Reimer and Reimer's (2000) recommended value for northeast Australia from DeltaR = +11 +/- 5 to + 12 +/- 7, and specifically for central Queensland to DeltaR = +10 +/- 7, for near-shore open marine environments. In contrast, data obtained from estuarine shell/charcoal pairs demonstrate a general lack of consistency, suggesting estuary-specific patterns of variation in terrestrial carbon input and exchange with the open ocean. Preliminary data indicate that in some estuaries, at some time periods, a DeltaR value of more than - 155 +/- 55 may be appropriate, In estuarine contexts in central Queensland, a localized estuary-specific correction factor is recommended to account for geographical and temporal variation in C-14 activity. (C) 2002 Wiley Periodicals.

Differences in benthic fauna and sediment among mangrove (Avicennia marina var. australasica) stands of different ages in New Zealand

Management of coastal environments requires understanding of ecological relationships among different habitats and their biotas. Changes in abundance and distribution of mangroves, like those of other coastal habitats, have generally been interpreted in terms of changes in biodiversity or fisheries resources within individual stands. In several parts of their range, anthropogenically increased inputs of sediment to estuaries have led to the spread of mangroves. There is, however, little information on the relative ecological properties, or conservational values, of stands of different ages. The faunal, floral and sedimentological properties of mangrove (Avicennia marina var. australasica) stands of two different ages in New Zealand has been compared. Older (>60 years) and younger (3-12 years) stands showed clear separation on the basis of environmental characteristics and benthic macrofauna. Numbers of faunal taxa were generally larger at younger sites, and numbers of individuals of several taxa were also larger at these sites. The total number of individuals was not different between the two age-classes, largely due to the presence of large numbers of the surface-living gastropod Potamopyrgus antipodarum at the older sites. It is hypothesized that as mangrove stands mature, the focus of faunal diversity may shift from the benthos to animals living on the mangrove plants themselves, such as insects and spiders, though these were not included in the present study. Differences in the faunas were coincident with differences in the nature of the sediment. Sediments in older stands were more compacted and contained more organic matter and leaf litter. Measurement of leaf chemistry suggested that mangrove plants in the younger stands were able to take up more N and P than those in the older stands. (C) 2003 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Rates of electronic energy transfer in conformationally flexible bichromophoric macrocyclic complexes: a combined experimental and molecular modeling study

Electronic energy transfer (EET) rate constants between a naphthalene donor and anthracene acceptor in [ZnL4a](ClO4)(2) and [ZnL4b](ClO4)(2) were determined by time-resolved fluorescence where L-4a and L-4b are the trans and cis isomers of 6-((anthracen-9-yl-methyl)amino)-6,13-dimethyl-13-((naphthalen-1-yl-methyl)amino)-1,4,8,11-tetraazacyclotetradecane, respectively. These isomers differ in the relative disposition of the appended chromophores with respect to the macrocyclic plane. The trans isomer has an energy transfer rate constant (k(EET)) of 8.7 x 10(8) s(-1), whereas that of the cis isomer is significantly faster (2.3 x 10(9) s(-1)). Molecular modeling was used to determine the likely distribution of conformations in CH3CN solution for these complexes in an attempt to identify any distance or orientation dependency that may account for the differing rate constants observed. The calculated conformational distributions together with analysis by H-1 NMR for the [ZnL4a](2+) trans complex in the common trans-III N-based isomer gave a calculated Forster rate constant close to that observed experimentally. For the [ZnL4b](2+) cis complex, the experimentally determined rate constant may be attributed to a combination of trans-Ill and trans-I N-based isomeric forms of the complex in solution.

Numerical solutions of the sediment conservation law: A review and improved formulation for coastal morphological modelling

Numerical solutions of the sediment conservation law are reviewed in terms of their application to bed update schemes in coastal morphological models. It is demonstrated that inadequately formulated numerical techniques lead to the introduction of diffusion, dispersion and the bed elevation oscillations previously reported in the literature. Four different bed update schemes are then reviewed and tested against benchmark analytical solutions. These include a first order upwind scheme, two Lax-Wendroff schemes and a non-oscillating centred scheme (NOCS) recently applied to morphological modelling by Saint-Cast [Saint-Cast, F., 2002. Modelisation de la morphodynamique des corps sableux en milieu littoral (Modelling of coastal sand banks morphodynamics), University Bordeaux 1, Bordeaux, 245 pp.]. It is shown that NOCS limits and controls numerical errors while including all the sediment flux gradients that control morphological change. Further, no post solution filtering is required, which avoids difficulties with selecting filter strength. Finally, NOCS is compared to a recent Lax-Wendroff scheme with post-solution filtering for a longer term simulation of the morphological evolution around a trained river entrance. (C) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Field observations of instantaneous water slopes and horizontal pressure gradients in the swash-zone

Field observations of instantaneous water surface slopes in the swash zone are presented. For free-surface flows with a hydrostatic pressure distribution the surface slope is equivalent to the horizontal pressure gradient. Observations were made using a novel technique which in its simplest form consists of a horizontal stringline extending seaward from the beach face. Visual observation, still photography or video photography is then sufficient to determine the surface slope where the free-surface cuts the line or between reference points in the image. The method resolves the mean surface gradient over a cross-shore distance of 5 m or more to within +/- 0.001, or 1/20th -1/100th of typical beach gradients. In addition, at selected points and at any instant in time during the swash cycle, the water surface slope can be determined exactly to be dipping either seaward or landward. Close to the location of bore collapse landward dipping water surface slopes of order 0.05-0.1 occur over a very small region (order 0.5 m) at the blunt or convex leading edge of the swash. In the middle and upper swash the water surface slope at this leading edge is usually very close to horizontal or slightly seaward. Behind the leading edge, the water surface slope was observed to be very close to horizontal or dipping seaward at all times throughout the swash uprush. During the backwash the water surface slope was observed to be always dipping seaward, approaching the beach slope, and remained seaward until a new uprush edge or incident bore passed any particular cross-shore location of interest. The observations strongly Suggest that the swash boundary layer is subject to an adverse pressure gradient during uprush and a favourable pressure gradient during the backwash. Furthermore, assuming Euler's equations are a good approximation in the swash, the observations also show that the total fluid acceleration is negative (offshore) for almost the whole of the uprush and for the entire backwash. The observations are contrary to recent work suggesting significant shoreward directed accelerations and pressure gradients occur in the swash (i.e., delta u/delta t > 0 similar to delta p/delta x < 0), but consistent with analytical and numerical solutions for swash uprush and backwash. The results have important implications for sediment transport modelling in the swash zone.

Identification and molecular modeling of a novel, plant-like, human purple acid phosphatase

Purple acid phosphatases are a family of binuclear metallohydrolases that have been identified in plants, animals and fungi. Only one isoform of similar to 35 kDa has been isolated from animals, where it is associated with bone resorption and microbial killing through its phosphatase activity, and hydroxyl radical production, respectively. Using the sensitive PSI-BLAST search method, sequences representing new purple acid phosphatase-like proteins have been identified in mammals, insects and nematodes. These new putative isoforms are closely related to the similar to 55 kDa purple acid phosphatase characterized from plants. Secondary structure prediction of the new human isoform further confirms its similarity to a purple acid phosphatase from the red kidney bean. A structural model for the human enzyme was constructed based on the red kidney bean purple acid phosphatase structure. This model shows that the catalytic centre observed in other purple acid phosphatases is also present in this new isoform. These observations suggest that the sequences identified in this study represent a novel subfamily of plant-like purple acid phosphatases in animals and humans. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

An MDA approach towards integrating formal and informal modeling languages

This paper shows how formal and informal modeling languages can be cooperatively used in the MDA framework, and how transformations between models in these languages can be achieved using an MDA development environment. The integrated approach also provides an effective V&V technique for the MDA.

Free-Surface Aeration and Momentum Exchange at a Bottom Outlet

This study aims to provide some new understanding of the air-water flow properties in high-velocity water jets discharging past an abrupt drop. Such a setup has been little studied to date despite the relevance to bottom outlets. Downstream of the step brink, the free-jet entrains air at both upper and lower air-water interfaces, as well as along the sides. An air-water shear layer develops at the lower nappe interface. At the lower nappe, the velocity redistribution was successfully modelled and the velocity field was found to be similar to that in two-dimensional wake flow. The results highlighted further two distinct flow regions. Close to the brink (Wex < 5000), the flow was dominated by momentum transfer. Further downstream (Wex > 5000), a strong competition between air bubble diffusion and momentum exchanges took place.