Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Submerged and unsubmerged natural hydraulic jumps in a bedrock step-pool mountain channel (Fig. 1 Classical hydraulic jump with partially developed inflow conditions)

Fig. 1. Classical hydraulic jump with partially developed inflow conditions. F1 = 13.6, V1 = 4.7 m/s, B = 0.25 m, h = 0.020 mm, d1 = 0.012 mm, Q = 14 L/s. Photo courtesy of Dr. Hubert Chanson. published in: Geomorphology Volume 82, Issues 1-2, 6 December 2006, Pages 146-159 The Hydrology and Geomorphology of Bedrock Rivers doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2005.09.024 Submerged and unsubmerged natural hydraulic jumps in a bedrock step-pool mountain channel Brett L. Vallé and Gregory B. Pasternacka

On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs

An extended refraction-diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97-126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation [epsilon(b)] = (alpha rho g omega/8 pi)(root gh/C)(H-3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay [Gourlayl M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17-42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient alpha and F-c0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

The network structure of a regional tourism organization: Application of he social network theory in one region of Queensland

Regional tourism organizations (RTOs) plays a central role in planning, coordinating and marketing tourism in many areas, including Queensland, Australia. RTOs rely on interaction with a network of other organizations for their efficient functioning. This paper describes an exploratory case study that develops a method for use of social network analysis techniques to analyse the inter-organizational network in one RTO region in Queensland. Results indicate that differences exist in the structure of inter-organizational links between commercial tourism organizations and planning organizations, between tourism organizations and other sectoral clusters, and between organizations at local, regional and state levels. The results highlight areas or improvement in the role and responsibilities of RTOs in Queensland.

Air Entrainment Processes in a Full-Scale Rectangular Dropshaft at Large Flows

Rectangular dropshafts, commonly used in sewers and storm water systems, are characterised by significant flow aeration. New detailed air-water flow measurements were conducted in a near-full-scale dropshaft at large discharges. In the shaft pool and outflow channel, the results demonstrated the complexity of different competitive air entrainment mechanisms. Bubble size measurements showed a broad range of entrained bubble sizes. Analysis of streamwise distributions of bubbles suggested further some clustering process in the bubbly flow although, in the outflow channel, bubble chords were in average smaller than in the shaft pool. A robust hydrophone was tested to measure bubble acoustic spectra and to assess its field application potential. The acoustic results characterised accurately the order of magnitude of entrained bubble sizes, but the transformation from acoustic frequencies to bubble radii did not predict correctly the probability distribution functions of bubble sizes.

Bubbly Flow Structure in Hydraulic Jump

In an open channel, a hydraulic jump is the rapid transition from super- to sub-critical flow associated with strong turbulence and air bubble entrainment in the mixing layer. New experiments were performed at relatively large Reynolds numbers using phase-detection probes. Some new signal analysis provided characteristic air-water time and length scales of the vortical structures advecting the air bubbles in the developing shear flow. An analysis of the longitudinal air-water flow structure suggested little bubble clustering in the mixing layer, although an interparticle arrival time analysis showed some preferential bubble clustering for small bubbles with chord times below 3 ms. Correlation analyses yielded longitudinal air-water time scales Txx*V1/d1 of about 0.8 in average. The transverse integral length scale Z/d1 of the eddies advecting entrained bubbles was typically between 0.25 and 0.4, irrespective of the inflow conditions within the range of the investigations. Overall the findings highlighted the complicated nature of the air-water flow

Sillon de Talbert, Pleubian, Bretagne, France

Coastal photograph of Sillon du Talbert, L'Armor, Pleubian on 16 April 2004 low tide. End of the Sillon, looking N-N-E at the Archipel d'Ollone. The Sillon du Talbert is a natural thin 3-km long tongue made of "galets" (pebbles about 5 to 20 cm) and sand. It is located at the tip of a peninsula between the estuaries of the rivers Jaudy (Le Jaudy) and Trieux (Le Trieux) next to Ile de Bre´hat. At the end of the Sillon, there is an archipel of small islands and rocks called "Archipel d'Ollone" (Ollone archipel), also called the Talbert islands (Iles de Talbert) by the locals. The Sillon du Talbert (or Sillon de Talbert) is an important reserve of flora and fauna. The Sillon was damaged by locals using stones for construction until 1928, and by the Germans, who used stones for the Ile Blanche bunker system construction in 1943 as part of the WWII Atlantic wall. (Coastal Photograph by Hubert Chanson, Department of Civil Engineering, the University of Queensland, Brisbane, Queensland 4072, Australia.)

Turbulence in Small Sub-Tropical Estuary with Semi-Diurnal Tides

In natural estuaries, contaminant transport is driven by the turbulent momentum mixing. The predictions of scalar dispersion can rarely be predicted accurately because of a lack of fundamental understanding of the turbulence structure in estuaries. Herein detailed turbulence field measurements were conducted at high frequency and continuously for up to 50 hours per investigation in a small subtropical estuary with semi-diurnal tides. Acoustic Doppler velocimetry was deemed the most appropriate measurement technique for such small estuarine systems with shallow water depths (less than 0.5 m at low tides), and a thorough post-processing technique was applied. The estuarine flow is always a fluctuating process. The bulk flow parameters fluctuated with periods comparable to tidal cycles and other large-scale processes. But turbulence properties depended upon the instantaneous local flow properties. They were little affected by the flow history, but their structure and temporal variability were influenced by a variety of mechanisms. This resulted in behaviour which deviated from that for equilibrium turbulent boundary layer induced by velocity shear only. A striking feature of the data sets is the large fluctuations in all turbulence characteristics during the tidal cycle. This feature was rarely documented, but an important difference between the data sets used in this study from earlier reported measurements is that the present data were collected continuously at high frequency during relatively long periods. The findings bring new lights in the fluctuating nature of momentum exchange coefficients and integral time and length scales. These turbulent properties should not be assumed constant.