Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f(w)=0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Comparison of cellulose solubilisation rates in rumen and landfill leachate inoculated reactors

The aim of this study was to conduct a number of controlled digestions to obtain easily comparable cellulose solubilisation rates and to compare these rates to those found in the literature to see which operational differences were significant in affecting cellulose degradation during anaerobic digestion. The results suggested that differences in volumetric cellulose solubilisation rates were not indicative of the true performance of cellulose digestion systems. When cellulose solubilisation rates were normalised by the mass of cellulose in the reactor at each time step, the comparison of the rates became more meaningful. Cellulose solubilisation was surface area limited. Therefore, changes in the loading rate of cellulose to the reactor altered the volumetric solubilisation rate without changing the mass normalised rate. Comparison of mass normalised solubilisation rates from this study and the literature demonstrated that differences in reactor configuration and operational conditions did not significantly impact on the solubilisation rate whereas the difference in composition of the microbial communities showed a marked effect. This work highlights the importance of using appropriately normalised data when making comparisons between systems with differing operational conditions. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs

An extended refraction-diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97-126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation [epsilon(b)] = (alpha rho g omega/8 pi)(root gh/C)(H-3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay [Gourlayl M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17-42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient alpha and F-c0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Experimental Measurements of Velocity and Pressure Distribution on a Large Broad-Crested Weir

Basic experiments were conducted in a near full-scale broad-crested weir. Detailed velocity and pressure measurements were performed for two configurations. The results showed the rapid flow distribution at the upstream end of the weir, while an overhanging crest design may affect the flow field. The study showed further that large vortical structures might be observed immediately upstream of the weir and impact adversely on the overflow.

Standing wave bed forms at Plage de la Grande Roche, le Verdelet, Pléneuf-Val-André, Cote d’Armor (France)

Coastal Photograph by Hubert Chanson This photograph of standing wave bed forms was taken at very low tide. The tidal range was 10 m. The bed forms were located on the island of Le Verdelet, in a channel between Le Grande Jaune and Le Verdelet. It is likely that these standing wave bed forms were formed during transcritical shallow water flows at the end of ebb tide. The author’s watch is in the foreground for scale. (Coastal Photograph by Hubert Chanson, Division of Civil Engineering, the University of Queensland, Brisbane, Queensland 4072, Australia.)

Air Entrainment Processes in a Full-Scale Rectangular Dropshaft at Large Flows

Rectangular dropshafts, commonly used in sewers and storm water systems, are characterised by significant flow aeration. New detailed air-water flow measurements were conducted in a near-full-scale dropshaft at large discharges. In the shaft pool and outflow channel, the results demonstrated the complexity of different competitive air entrainment mechanisms. Bubble size measurements showed a broad range of entrained bubble sizes. Analysis of streamwise distributions of bubbles suggested further some clustering process in the bubbly flow although, in the outflow channel, bubble chords were in average smaller than in the shaft pool. A robust hydrophone was tested to measure bubble acoustic spectra and to assess its field application potential. The acoustic results characterised accurately the order of magnitude of entrained bubble sizes, but the transformation from acoustic frequencies to bubble radii did not predict correctly the probability distribution functions of bubble sizes.

La Pointe Saint Mathieu, Brittany, France

The "Pointe Saint Mathieu" is one of the most westerly continental landmarks of France. The promontory is located at the entrance of the "Goulet de la Rade de Brest", that is the entrance channel of the harbour of Brest in Brittany (France). It marks also the Southern end of the "Chenal du Four" that is the main navigation channel between the islands of Ouessant, Molène and Béniquet, and Brittany. The "Chenal du Four" is reputed for its dangers. The tidal range is greater than 7 m in spring tides, and the mid-tide current may exceed 5 knots. The Saint Mathieu promontory is equipped with a lighthouse and a semaphore. The former is located in the ruins of an old monastery, founded during the 6th century AD by Saint Tanguy. The present ruins are the remnants of buildings from the 11th to 15th centuries. The first lighthouse was installed in 1689, although the monks of the monastery used to maintain a signal light since the 1250s. Completed in 1835, the present "Phare de la Pointe Saint-Mathieu" is 37 m high and it reaches 58.8 m above sea level During World War 2, the Pointe Saint Mathieu was defended by a series of concrete fortifications built by the Germans. Some were based upon some earlier French bunker systems, like the coastal battery at the Rospects which included 4 main gun bunkers (4*150 mm, or 2*150 mm & 2*105 mm), an observation bunker on the Western side close to sea, and several smaller structures. There was also the large Kéringar Blockhaus system, near Lochrist, located about 1 km inland and designed for 4 guns of 280 mm. Its command bunker remains a landmark along the main road. All this area was very-heavily bombed between 1943 and 1944, and particularly during the battle of Brest in August-September 1944 ("L'Enfer de Brest").

Bubbly Flow Structure in Hydraulic Jump

In an open channel, a hydraulic jump is the rapid transition from super- to sub-critical flow associated with strong turbulence and air bubble entrainment in the mixing layer. New experiments were performed at relatively large Reynolds numbers using phase-detection probes. Some new signal analysis provided characteristic air-water time and length scales of the vortical structures advecting the air bubbles in the developing shear flow. An analysis of the longitudinal air-water flow structure suggested little bubble clustering in the mixing layer, although an interparticle arrival time analysis showed some preferential bubble clustering for small bubbles with chord times below 3 ms. Correlation analyses yielded longitudinal air-water time scales Txx*V1/d1 of about 0.8 in average. The transverse integral length scale Z/d1 of the eddies advecting entrained bubbles was typically between 0.25 and 0.4, irrespective of the inflow conditions within the range of the investigations. Overall the findings highlighted the complicated nature of the air-water flow

Sillon de Talbert, Pleubian, Bretagne, France

Coastal photograph of Sillon du Talbert, L'Armor, Pleubian on 16 April 2004 low tide. End of the Sillon, looking N-N-E at the Archipel d'Ollone. The Sillon du Talbert is a natural thin 3-km long tongue made of "galets" (pebbles about 5 to 20 cm) and sand. It is located at the tip of a peninsula between the estuaries of the rivers Jaudy (Le Jaudy) and Trieux (Le Trieux) next to Ile de Bre´hat. At the end of the Sillon, there is an archipel of small islands and rocks called "Archipel d'Ollone" (Ollone archipel), also called the Talbert islands (Iles de Talbert) by the locals. The Sillon du Talbert (or Sillon de Talbert) is an important reserve of flora and fauna. The Sillon was damaged by locals using stones for construction until 1928, and by the Germans, who used stones for the Ile Blanche bunker system construction in 1943 as part of the WWII Atlantic wall. (Coastal Photograph by Hubert Chanson, Department of Civil Engineering, the University of Queensland, Brisbane, Queensland 4072, Australia.)

Coastal photograph: Aber Wrac'h, Pays du Léon, Bretagne

Aber Wrac’h, Pays du Léon, Bretagne. Aber Wrac’h, Bretagne, France, on 10 March 2004 at 13:30 (low tide) looking North (downstream) towards the Aber mouth and open sea between Lannilis and Plougerneau, Pays des Abers, Pays du Le´on. The word "Aber" is Britton (Breton) for a "fjord"-like estuary. Located on the Channel, the region "Pays des Abers" includes several deep incisions in the coastlines. The best known ‘‘Abers’’ are the Aber Wrac’h and Aber Benoit in the Pays du Léon, Finistere Nord.

Turbulence in Small Sub-Tropical Estuary with Semi-Diurnal Tides

In natural estuaries, contaminant transport is driven by the turbulent momentum mixing. The predictions of scalar dispersion can rarely be predicted accurately because of a lack of fundamental understanding of the turbulence structure in estuaries. Herein detailed turbulence field measurements were conducted at high frequency and continuously for up to 50 hours per investigation in a small subtropical estuary with semi-diurnal tides. Acoustic Doppler velocimetry was deemed the most appropriate measurement technique for such small estuarine systems with shallow water depths (less than 0.5 m at low tides), and a thorough post-processing technique was applied. The estuarine flow is always a fluctuating process. The bulk flow parameters fluctuated with periods comparable to tidal cycles and other large-scale processes. But turbulence properties depended upon the instantaneous local flow properties. They were little affected by the flow history, but their structure and temporal variability were influenced by a variety of mechanisms. This resulted in behaviour which deviated from that for equilibrium turbulent boundary layer induced by velocity shear only. A striking feature of the data sets is the large fluctuations in all turbulence characteristics during the tidal cycle. This feature was rarely documented, but an important difference between the data sets used in this study from earlier reported measurements is that the present data were collected continuously at high frequency during relatively long periods. The findings bring new lights in the fluctuating nature of momentum exchange coefficients and integral time and length scales. These turbulent properties should not be assumed constant.

Diseño hidráulico de vertedores escalonados con pendientes moderadas: Metodología basada en un estudio experimental

Durante las últimas tres décadas el interés y diversidad en el uso de canales escalonados han aumentado debido al desarrollo de nuevas técnicas y materiales que permiten su construcción de manera rápida y económica (Concreto compactado con rodillo CCR, Gaviones, etc.). Actualmente, los canales escalonados se usan como vertedores y/o canales para peces en presas y diques, como disipadores de energía en canales y ríos, o como aireadores en plantas de tratamiento y torrentes contaminados. Diversos investigadores han estudiado el flujo en vertedores escalonados, enfocándose en estructuras de gran pendiente (  45o) por lo que a la fecha, el comportamiento del flujo sobre vertedores con pendientes moderadas (  15 a 30o) no ha sido totalmente comprendido. El presente artículo comprende un estudio experimental de las propiedades físicas del flujo aire-agua sobre canales escalonados con pendientes moderadas, típicas en presas de materiales sueltos. Un extenso rango de gastos en condiciones de flujo rasante se investigó en dos modelos experimentales a gran escala (Le = 3 a 6): Un canal con pendiente 3.5H:1V (  16o) y dos alturas de escalón distintas (h = 0.1 y 0.05 m) y un canal con pendiente 2.5H:1V (  22o) y una altura de escalón de h = 0.1 m. Los resultados incluyen un análisis detallado de las propiedades del flujo en vertedores escalonados con pendientes moderadas y un nuevo criterio de diseño hidráulico, el cual está basado en los resultados experimentales obtenidos. English abstract: Stepped chutes have been used as hydraulic structures since antiquity, they can be found acting as spillways and fish ladders in dams and weirs, as energy dissipators in artificial channels, gutters and rivers, and as aeration enhancers in water treatment plants and polluted streams. In recent years, new construction techniques and materials (Roller Compacted Concrete RCC, rip-rap gabions, etc.) together with the development of the abovementioned new applications have allowed cheaper construction methods, increasing the interest in stepped chute design. During the last three decades, research in stepped spillways has been very active. However, studies prior to 1993 neglected the effect of free-surface aeration. A number of studies have focused since on steep stepped chutes (  45o) but the hydraulic performance of moderate-slope stepped channels is not yet totally understood. This study details an experimental investigation of physical air-water flow properties down moderate slope stepped spillways conducted in two laboratory models: the first model was a 3.15 m long stepped chute with a 15.9o slope comprising two interchangeable step heights (h = 0.1 m and h = 0.05 m); the second model was a 3.3 m long, stepped channel with a 21.8o slope (h = 0.1 m). A broad range of discharges within transition and skimming flow regimes was investigated. Measurements were conducted using a double tip conductivity probe. The study provides new, original insights into air-water stepped chute flows not foreseen in prior studies and presents a new design criterion for chutes with moderate slopes based on the experimental results.

Detailed Measurements during a Transient Front in a Small Subtropical Estuary

High-resolution measurements of velocity and physio-chemistry were conducted before, during and after the passage of a transient front in a small subtropical system about 2.1 km upstream of the river mouth. Detailed acoustic Doppler velocimetry measurements, conducted continuously at 25 Hz, showed the existence of transverse turbulent shear between 300 s prior to the front passage and 1300 s after. This was associated with an increased level of suspended sediment concentration fluctuations, some transverse shear next to the bed and some surface temperature anomaly.