Revival: The Aesthetics of Revival Subcultures and Re-enactment Groups Explored Through Fashion Image-making

This research aims, through performance, fashion photography, video making and the theatrical devices that accompany such practice, to explore the style of a contemporary, largely male, subcultural collective. The common term that joins these loosely bound groups is revival as they appear driven by an impulse to simulate and re-enact the dress, rites and rituals of British and American subcultures from a perceived golden era. The similarities with re-enactment societies are also explored and exploited to the end of developing new style- based aesthetics in male fashion image-making formed around an elaborate re- enactment of Spartacus and the Third Servile Wars. Examined through comparative visuals (revivalists / re-enactors) a common thread is found in the wearing of leather as a metaphor for resistance, style and a pupa-like second skin. Subsequent findings of this research suggest that the cuirass of popular culture emerges as the motorcycle jacket of both the sword and sandal epic and the historical re-enactor. Addressing extremes in narcissistic dress and behaviour amongst certain individuals within these older male communities, this study also questions parts of established theory on subcultural development within the field of cultural studies and postulates on a metaphorical dandy gene. Citing two leading practitioners in the field of fashion photography the work of both Richard Prince and Bruce Weber is viewed through the lens of the subcultural aesthete and conclusions drawn as to their role as agents provocateurs in the development of the fashion image with a revival based narrative. In addition the often used term retro is examined, categorised and granted its own genre within fashion image- making and defined as being separate from the practice element of this research. Reflecting a multi-disciplinary approach that engages the researcher as Bricoleur and participant observer this research operates in the reflexive realm and uses simulation as a key method of enquiry. The practice-led outcome of this investigation takes the form of a final research exhibition that takes the form of a substantial installation of photography, video, clothing and textile prints. Key terms: dandy gene, historical re-enactment groups, internal theatre, narcissism, narrative image-making, reflexive practice, revival as theatre, subcultures,

Robot

Klimowski’s graphic novel, Robot, was commissioned by the Adam Mickiewicz Institute in Warsaw to mark Poland’s Presidency of the European Union’s Cultural Programme in 2011. Self Made Hero and Timof Comiks published the book simultaneously in the UK and Poland. Klimowski adapted and translated Stanisław Lem’s short fiction ‘The sanatorium of Dr Vliperdius’ (1977), aiming to develop a new position for illustration and the graphic novel aside from mainstream graphic novels and literature, and a new approach to visual bookmaking. The project proved to be an artistic challenge: Lem often proclaimed his disapproval of adaptations of his work, dismissing even Andrei Tarkovsky’s film adaptation (1972) of his novel Solaris (1961). Produced in collaboration with Danusia Schejbal, Robot features a diptych form, counter-pointing (both formally and conceptually) two contrasting stories. The first is a colourful parable describing a totalitarian and autocratic regime that must be vanquished, the second a monochromatic dialectic on philosophy, humanism and mechanisation. Klimowski and Schejbal’s publication is intended to challenge stereotypes and established styles and formulas associated with the production of graphic novels. Much emphasis was laid upon the depiction of space and location, artificiality and realism. Silence and the suspension of linear time were also strong features of the artists’ investigations. These qualities were recognised and discussed by the media, in particular by a panel of critics on Polish Television’s Cultural Channel, in the most respected comics blog, Zeszyty Komiksowe (http://zeszytykomiksowe.org/recenzja_robot, 2012), and by Monika Malkowskain in the national newspaper Rzeczpospolita (2011). The artists gave a special talk at the Science Museum, London, during the Robot Festival ‘Robotville’ (December 2011). Lem, one of the world’s leading writers of science fiction, was featured throughout the year in the UK on stage, cinema and in literary events (Barbican Centre London, British Library, Science Museum London).