Revival: The Aesthetics of Revival Subcultures and Re-enactment Groups Explored Through Fashion Image-making

This research aims, through performance, fashion photography, video making and the theatrical devices that accompany such practice, to explore the style of a contemporary, largely male, subcultural collective. The common term that joins these loosely bound groups is revival as they appear driven by an impulse to simulate and re-enact the dress, rites and rituals of British and American subcultures from a perceived golden era. The similarities with re-enactment societies are also explored and exploited to the end of developing new style- based aesthetics in male fashion image-making formed around an elaborate re- enactment of Spartacus and the Third Servile Wars. Examined through comparative visuals (revivalists / re-enactors) a common thread is found in the wearing of leather as a metaphor for resistance, style and a pupa-like second skin. Subsequent findings of this research suggest that the cuirass of popular culture emerges as the motorcycle jacket of both the sword and sandal epic and the historical re-enactor. Addressing extremes in narcissistic dress and behaviour amongst certain individuals within these older male communities, this study also questions parts of established theory on subcultural development within the field of cultural studies and postulates on a metaphorical dandy gene. Citing two leading practitioners in the field of fashion photography the work of both Richard Prince and Bruce Weber is viewed through the lens of the subcultural aesthete and conclusions drawn as to their role as agents provocateurs in the development of the fashion image with a revival based narrative. In addition the often used term retro is examined, categorised and granted its own genre within fashion image- making and defined as being separate from the practice element of this research. Reflecting a multi-disciplinary approach that engages the researcher as Bricoleur and participant observer this research operates in the reflexive realm and uses simulation as a key method of enquiry. The practice-led outcome of this investigation takes the form of a final research exhibition that takes the form of a substantial installation of photography, video, clothing and textile prints. Key terms: dandy gene, historical re-enactment groups, internal theatre, narcissism, narrative image-making, reflexive practice, revival as theatre, subcultures,

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How is it possible that civilization has a global understanding of the abstraction of the human form? At a subconscious level as humans we have the ability to find the form of the body in the most minimal of shapes, objects, landscape and even natural phenomena such as clouds, it is an ability inherent in human nature. This deep-rooted facility to recognise the human form at various levels of abstraction is also developed further by our life experiences, environment and total education; specifically in the fine and applied arts. For this research I have focused on the change between realistic representations of the human form to complete abstraction. I have broken it down to its most basic elements to explore at what point our visual language allows us to recognise and define a shape or object as being influenced by, or connected to, the human form. I have concentrated on extending my own visual language relating to the human form within my own practice. A series of practical research projects has been undertaken and has been supported by a new series of investigative works, drawings and written evidence of the ways in which the figure can be represented, documenting the process via the thesis and final works. As part of my research, I have investigated the way artists working with clay have abstracted the human form focusing in particular on work from the 1950s to the present day using clay, drawing and installation. I have looked at how, over this period, artists have developed their own visual signifiers of the human form within their abstract/representational creations. The aim of this research will be falls into two parts: • To investigate how far one can push the human form in clay before it moves into abstraction • To locate the vanishing point where viewers still identify the human within ceramic abstract sculpture

Sound Seam

A moving image work based on research with neurologists and audiologists, collectors and archivists. The film gives voice to the idea that every surface, in particular parts of our anatomy, is potentially inscribed with an unheard sound or echoes of voices from the past. The soundtrack’s musical composition is interlaced with a voice-over which draws on Rainer Maria Rilke’s text 'Primal Sound', where he reflects on the possibility of playing the coronal suture of a skull with a phonograph needle. The film uses microscopic photography, scanning electron microscopy, and sounds of otoacoustic emissions to uncover haunting aural bonescapes. The voiceovers too are recorded using old sound technology as a filter - writing and over-writing of wax cylinder to create unexpected scratches, glitches, loops and echoes. Exhibitions: shown as multi-channel sound/film installation AV festival (Newcastle 2010); solo exhibition at Wellcome Collection (London 2010-11); group exhibition ‘Samsung Art+ Prize’ BFI Southbank (London 2012); group exhibition ‘Transcendence’, Gertrude Contemporary, Melbourne (2014); solo exhibition as part of the International Rotterdam Film Festival (2013); group exhibition ‘The Sight of Sound’, Deutsche Bank VIP Lounge, Frieze Art Fair, NY (2012). Screenings: mini-retrospective at the Lincoln Centre, NY, as part of the New York Film Festival (2013); Jarman Award Tour screenings (2012, venues included Whitechapel Gallery, London; FACT, Liverpool; CCA, Glasgow; The Northern Charter in partnership with CIRCA projects; Nottingham Contemporary, Nottingham; Watershed, Bristol; Duke of York Cinema, Brighton), Whitechapel Gallery, London; FACT, Liverpool; CCA, Glasgow; The Northern Charter in partnership with CIRCA projects, Newcastle (special Q&A Aura Satz with Rebecca Shatwell, director of AV festival); Nottingham Contemporary, Nottingham; Watershed, Bristol; Duke of York Cinema, Brighton; Mini-retrospective at Tate Britain (London 2014); Mini-retrospective screening, DIM Cinema, The Cinematheque (Vancouver 2015); Mini-retrospective at Whitechapel Gallery (London 2016). Publications: ‘Sound Seam’ booklet with contributions by Steven Connor and Tom McCarthy (2010).

Chromatic Aberration

Chromatic Aberration is a film installation which explores the early technologies of colour filmmaking drawn from the archives of George Eastman House, Rochester, New York. Featuring vibrant close-ups of eyes from fledgling archival experiments in colour film, Chromatic Aberration turns the cinematic lens in on itself: from the prosthetic recording eye of the camera, to an evocation of the abstract inner screen of one's eyelids. Early 1920s colour film footage - mainly tests shots featuring members of George Eastman's family as well as Hollywood stars of the time - is shot in such a way so as to reveal the inherent chromatic fringing, distortion and misalignment. Using specialist equipment at the BFI National Archive, London, the footage is reworked through the use of extreme close-up and magnification, honing in on the eyes. The installation evokes an imagined abstract colour world, a flickering eyelid trapped in a mechanical peephole. Exhibitions: Solo exhibition as film installation at Tyneside Cinema (Newcastle, Oct-Nov 2014); Solo exhibition at George Eastman Museum (Rochester, New York, Jan-April 2015), including a second work on display. Film festivals nominations for competitions: Winner of Best Vanguard Film Competition in Lima Independiente International Film Festival (Peru). Nominations: Filmadrid festival (Spain); Curtas Vila do Conde film festival (Portugal); Festival du Nouveau Cinema (Canada); Jihlava International Documentary Film Festival (Czech Republic ); International Film Festival Bratislava (Slovenia). Additional screenings at International Rotterdam Film Festival (Netherlands); European Media Art Festival (Germany); BFI London Film Festival (UK); Mini-retrospective screening at DIM CINEMA, The Cinematheque (Vancouver May 2015). Reviews and interviews in Artforum, The Wire Magazine, After Image, Studio International. Public lectures: with Prof. Sarah Street at Tyneside Cinema (Nov 2014); Royal Academy visiting public lecture (Nov 2014); ‘The Laughter of Things’ symposium, International Film Festival Rotterdam and Piet Zwart Institute (Jan 2015); George Eastman Museum and Rochester University (April 2015). Acquired by the George Eastman Museum for their collection.

The Trembling Line

The Trembling Line is a film and multi-channel sound installation exploring the visual and acoustic echoes between decipherable musical gestures and abstract patterning, orchestral swells and extreme high-speed slow-motion close-ups of strings and percussion. It features a score by Leo Grant and a newly devised multichannel audio system by the Institute of Sound and Vibration Research, University of Southampton. The multi-channel speaker array is devised as an intimate sound spatialisation system in which each element of sound can be pried apart and reconfigured, to create a dynamically disorienting sonic experience. It becomes the inside of a musical instrument, an acoustic envelope or cage of sorts, through which viewers are invited to experience the film and generate cross-sensory connections and counterpoints between the sound and the visuals. Funded by a Leverhulme Artist-in-Residence Award and John Hansard Gallery, with support from ISVR and the Music Department, University of Southampton. The project provided a rare opportunity to work creatively with new cutting edge developments in sound distribution devised by ISVR, devising a new speaker array, a multi- channel surround listening sphere which spatialises the auditory experience. The sphere is currently used by ISVR for outreach and teaching purposes, and has enables future collaborations between music staff and students at Southampton University and staff and ISVR. Exhibitions: Solo exhibition at John Hansard Gallery, Southampton (Dec 2015-Jan 2016), across 5 rooms, including a retrospective of five previous film-works and a new series of photographic stills. Public lectures: two within the gallery. Reviews and interviews: Art Monthly, Studio International, The Quietus, The Wire Magazine.

Between the Bullet and the Hole

Between the Bullet and the Hole is a film centred on the elusive and complex effects of war on women's role in ballistic research and early computing. The film features new and archival high-speed bullet photography, schlieren and electric spark imagery, bullet sound wave imagery, forensic ballistic photography, slide rulers, punch cards, computer diagrams, and a soundtrack by Scanner. Like a frantic animation storyboard, it explores the flickering space between the frames, testing the perceptual mechanics of visual interpolation, the possibility of reading or deciphering the gap between before and after. Interpolation - the main task of the women studying ballistics in WW2 - is the construction or guessing of missing data using only two known data points. The film tries to unpack this gap, open it up to interrogation. It questions how we read, interpolate or construct the gaps between bullet and hole, perpetrator and victim, presence and absence. The project involves exchanges with specialists in this area such as the Cranfield University Forensics department, London-based Forensic Firearms consultancy, the Imperial War Museum, the ENIAC programmers project, the Smithsonian Institute, and Forensic Scientists at Palm Beach County Sheriff's Office (USA). Exhibitions: Solo exhibition at Dallas Contemporary (Texas, Jan-Mar 2016), including newly commissioned lenticular prints and a dual slide projector installation; Group exhibition the Sydney Biennale (Sydney, Mar-June 2016); UK premiere and solo retrospective screening at Whitechapel Gallery (London); forthcoming solo exhibition at Iliya Fridman Gallery (NY, Oct-Dec 2016); Film festivals and screenings: International Film Festival Rotterdam (Jan 2016); Whitechapel Gallery (London Feb 2016); Cornerhouse/Home (Manchester Nov 2016); Public lectures: Whitechapel Gallery with prof. David Alan Grier and Morgan Quaintance; Carriageworks (Sydney) Prof. Douglas Khan; Monash University (Melbourne); Gertrude Space (Melbourne). Reviews and interviews: Artforum, Studio International, Mousse Magazine.