PVC Beret as part of Hats: An Anthology exhibition

Dip moulded plastic PVC beret. One of series starting from Jelly Beret 1997. This was made with the design company Inflate. This 2009 iteration of the PVC beret chosen for Stephen Jones Hat Anthology V&A, the first millinery exhibition of millinery design held at V&A. Whereas traditional millinery is known for its rather staid and bourgoise Stephen Jones selected chose this hat for its edgy sub cultural capital. This is reflected in the choices of materials and beret style with a reference to the Bohemien Parisienne avant garde revisited in 1960s London and made new for 21st century NY. "Jelly Beret" the very first prototype of a plastic millinery, reviewed in Elle 2000. This travelling exhibition went from London, New York, Sydney and exists at the V&A as a touring show. An accompanying catalogue by Oriole Cullen and Stephen Jones discusses the significance of innovative and original millinery design international design culture today.. " “House of Flora is noted for its sculptural and architecturally inspired hats made from technologically innovative materials such as latex,PVC and Perspex” Oriole Cullen

Oramics: Atlantis Anew

A moving image work co-commissioned by the Science Museum (London), with extensive unprecedented access to the Oramics archive at Goldsmiths College and the Science Museum. Conceived of as an Artist's film in homage to Daphne Oram, the pioneer of British Electronic Music and co-founder of the BBC Radiophonic workshop in 1958, the film features a close-up encounter with her unique invention, the Oramics Machine, housed at the Science Museum in London. Oram used drawn sound principles to compose ‘handwrought' electronic music, and yet the visual nature of her work remains largely unseen and unsung. Exhibitions: ‘Oramics to Electronica’ Science Museum (London 2011-14); solo exhibition as part of the International Rotterdam Film Festival (2013); group exhibition ‘The Sight of Sound’, Deutsche Bank VIP Lounge, Frieze Art Fair, NY (2012); ‘Samsung Art+ Prize’ BFI Southbank, London (2012). Screenings: mini-retrospective at the Lincoln Centre, NY, as part of the New York Film Festival (2013); Jarman Award Tour screenings (2012, venues included Whitechapel Gallery, London; FACT, Liverpool; CCA, Glasgow; The Northern Charter in partnership with CIRCA projects; Nottingham Contemporary, Nottingham; Watershed, Bristol; Duke of York Cinema, Brighton); Mini-retrospective screening and in conversation with Lis Rhodes, Tate Britain (London 2014); Mini-retrospective screening, DIM Cinema, The Cinematheque (Vancouver 2015); Mini-retrospective at Whitechapel Gallery (London 2016).

Sound Seam

A moving image work based on research with neurologists and audiologists, collectors and archivists. The film gives voice to the idea that every surface, in particular parts of our anatomy, is potentially inscribed with an unheard sound or echoes of voices from the past. The soundtrack’s musical composition is interlaced with a voice-over which draws on Rainer Maria Rilke’s text 'Primal Sound', where he reflects on the possibility of playing the coronal suture of a skull with a phonograph needle. The film uses microscopic photography, scanning electron microscopy, and sounds of otoacoustic emissions to uncover haunting aural bonescapes. The voiceovers too are recorded using old sound technology as a filter - writing and over-writing of wax cylinder to create unexpected scratches, glitches, loops and echoes. Exhibitions: shown as multi-channel sound/film installation AV festival (Newcastle 2010); solo exhibition at Wellcome Collection (London 2010-11); group exhibition ‘Samsung Art+ Prize’ BFI Southbank (London 2012); group exhibition ‘Transcendence’, Gertrude Contemporary, Melbourne (2014); solo exhibition as part of the International Rotterdam Film Festival (2013); group exhibition ‘The Sight of Sound’, Deutsche Bank VIP Lounge, Frieze Art Fair, NY (2012). Screenings: mini-retrospective at the Lincoln Centre, NY, as part of the New York Film Festival (2013); Jarman Award Tour screenings (2012, venues included Whitechapel Gallery, London; FACT, Liverpool; CCA, Glasgow; The Northern Charter in partnership with CIRCA projects; Nottingham Contemporary, Nottingham; Watershed, Bristol; Duke of York Cinema, Brighton), Whitechapel Gallery, London; FACT, Liverpool; CCA, Glasgow; The Northern Charter in partnership with CIRCA projects, Newcastle (special Q&A Aura Satz with Rebecca Shatwell, director of AV festival); Nottingham Contemporary, Nottingham; Watershed, Bristol; Duke of York Cinema, Brighton; Mini-retrospective at Tate Britain (London 2014); Mini-retrospective screening, DIM Cinema, The Cinematheque (Vancouver 2015); Mini-retrospective at Whitechapel Gallery (London 2016). Publications: ‘Sound Seam’ booklet with contributions by Steven Connor and Tom McCarthy (2010).

Chromatic Aberration

Chromatic Aberration is a film installation which explores the early technologies of colour filmmaking drawn from the archives of George Eastman House, Rochester, New York. Featuring vibrant close-ups of eyes from fledgling archival experiments in colour film, Chromatic Aberration turns the cinematic lens in on itself: from the prosthetic recording eye of the camera, to an evocation of the abstract inner screen of one's eyelids. Early 1920s colour film footage - mainly tests shots featuring members of George Eastman's family as well as Hollywood stars of the time - is shot in such a way so as to reveal the inherent chromatic fringing, distortion and misalignment. Using specialist equipment at the BFI National Archive, London, the footage is reworked through the use of extreme close-up and magnification, honing in on the eyes. The installation evokes an imagined abstract colour world, a flickering eyelid trapped in a mechanical peephole. Exhibitions: Solo exhibition as film installation at Tyneside Cinema (Newcastle, Oct-Nov 2014); Solo exhibition at George Eastman Museum (Rochester, New York, Jan-April 2015), including a second work on display. Film festivals nominations for competitions: Winner of Best Vanguard Film Competition in Lima Independiente International Film Festival (Peru). Nominations: Filmadrid festival (Spain); Curtas Vila do Conde film festival (Portugal); Festival du Nouveau Cinema (Canada); Jihlava International Documentary Film Festival (Czech Republic ); International Film Festival Bratislava (Slovenia). Additional screenings at International Rotterdam Film Festival (Netherlands); European Media Art Festival (Germany); BFI London Film Festival (UK); Mini-retrospective screening at DIM CINEMA, The Cinematheque (Vancouver May 2015). Reviews and interviews in Artforum, The Wire Magazine, After Image, Studio International. Public lectures: with Prof. Sarah Street at Tyneside Cinema (Nov 2014); Royal Academy visiting public lecture (Nov 2014); ‘The Laughter of Things’ symposium, International Film Festival Rotterdam and Piet Zwart Institute (Jan 2015); George Eastman Museum and Rochester University (April 2015). Acquired by the George Eastman Museum for their collection.

Between the Bullet and the Hole

Between the Bullet and the Hole is a film centred on the elusive and complex effects of war on women's role in ballistic research and early computing. The film features new and archival high-speed bullet photography, schlieren and electric spark imagery, bullet sound wave imagery, forensic ballistic photography, slide rulers, punch cards, computer diagrams, and a soundtrack by Scanner. Like a frantic animation storyboard, it explores the flickering space between the frames, testing the perceptual mechanics of visual interpolation, the possibility of reading or deciphering the gap between before and after. Interpolation - the main task of the women studying ballistics in WW2 - is the construction or guessing of missing data using only two known data points. The film tries to unpack this gap, open it up to interrogation. It questions how we read, interpolate or construct the gaps between bullet and hole, perpetrator and victim, presence and absence. The project involves exchanges with specialists in this area such as the Cranfield University Forensics department, London-based Forensic Firearms consultancy, the Imperial War Museum, the ENIAC programmers project, the Smithsonian Institute, and Forensic Scientists at Palm Beach County Sheriff's Office (USA). Exhibitions: Solo exhibition at Dallas Contemporary (Texas, Jan-Mar 2016), including newly commissioned lenticular prints and a dual slide projector installation; Group exhibition the Sydney Biennale (Sydney, Mar-June 2016); UK premiere and solo retrospective screening at Whitechapel Gallery (London); forthcoming solo exhibition at Iliya Fridman Gallery (NY, Oct-Dec 2016); Film festivals and screenings: International Film Festival Rotterdam (Jan 2016); Whitechapel Gallery (London Feb 2016); Cornerhouse/Home (Manchester Nov 2016); Public lectures: Whitechapel Gallery with prof. David Alan Grier and Morgan Quaintance; Carriageworks (Sydney) Prof. Douglas Khan; Monash University (Melbourne); Gertrude Space (Melbourne). Reviews and interviews: Artforum, Studio International, Mousse Magazine.

The PVC Beret

Dip moulded plastic beret. One of a series starting from Jelly Beret 1997.This was made with a UK with the design company Inflate. This 2009 iteration of the PVC beret chosen for Stephen Jones Hat Anthology V&A, the first millinery exhibition of millinery design held at V&A. Whereas traditional millinery is known for its rather staid and bourgeois Stephen Jones selected chose this hat for its edgy sub cultural capital.This is reflected in the choices of materials and beret style with a reference to the Bohemien Parisienne avant garde revisited in 1960s London and made new for 21st century NY "Jelly Beret" the very first prototype of a plastic millinery Reviewed in Vogue UK, this travelling exhibition went from London, New York, Sydney to add exists at the V&A as a touring show. An accompanying catalogue by Oriole Cullen and Stephen Jones discusses the significance of innovative and original millinery design international design culture today.

House of Flora (illustrations)

McLean builds strong connections between the cultural capital of the Jerwood prizewinning craft maker and the world of business and trade. It is crucial that higher education research can consider its relationship to the creative industries. London is a fashion capital, known for its style experimentation and playful creativity. The wit and anarchic play of the art school is a leading force in fashion innovation and Mclean's work articulates this clearly. Designing hats that reference the stylised coiffures of Hollywood icons, in the soft medium of felted wool, is a sophisticated play on the relations between nature and culture that, according to Levi Straus, are at the heart of all culture. The Fifty Hats that Changed the World makes direct allusion to the way that fashion is often regarded with mild disdain as insignificant or trivial, and the Design Museum London, an international leader in disseminating design discourse has, recently, included fashion design within its agenda for exhibition. McLean's work is a leading component of this transformation of design culture.

Sunray etched Visors for the Jamaican Olympic Team in three colours: yellow, green and black

Design for visors for the delegation from Jamaica to the London Olympic Games 2012. This design was commissioned by PUMA 2012 based on McLean's designs featured in the website House of Flora, which functions as a space of display, archive, folio, point of sale and dissemination. The McLean standard design for visors is a component of the avant garde, pret a porter millinery, accessory design collections, and stylistically customised for the Jamaican team. McLean's oeuvre is original in its integration of the experimental traditions of art school workshop culture with the professional demands of fashion manufacture and trade culture. Combining the innovation of the postmodern urban artisan with the exacting demands of industrial production, dissemination and distribution McLean's design work spans the disparate worlds of national art collections such as the Victoria and Albert Museum (A Hat Anthology Exhibition, and catalogue 2009), London Design Museum ( Fifty Hats that Changed the World 2009). Integrating design considerations of multiple and mass production with the stylistic considerations of the studio workshop McLean brings the wit of the avant garde urban artisan to the structures and systems of fashion industry. The designs reach to a global audience as product users, as well as to the international connoisseurship of crafts and design specialists. The rigour of McLean's research and innovation is evident in the specificity of the stylistic references made through her selection of materials, processes, form, colour and symbolism. A range of cultural references cite the rich fusion of early twentieth century modernist culture in which the disparate worlds of popular, proletarian, culture fertilised the stylistic austerity of high modern formalism. McLean here considers the relationship between millinery and coiffure, following from the millinery piece featured in (Marcel bobbed hairpiece hat), and now brings the considerations of ethnic difference to bear on her design. Afro hair brings user group specificity to the milliner, and the visor design is a resolution of function and style for both protection and display. Connoting the sartorial conventions of workwear headgear, rather than the nineteenth century colonial 'cricketer's' cap, or the twentieth century US 'baseball' peaked cap, McLean's 'Jamaican Olympic Visor' brings distinctively postcolonial meaning to the cultural profile of the heterotopic media space. Designing for the popular culture of Olympic sports, televised and broadcast to global audiences, brings new forms of agency to the fashion designer, and McLan's design deploys a style that is widely recognisable from other popular culture's film and TV depictions of workwear to mark the distinctive tradition of supremacy that black athletes bring to the European traditions of cultural heritage. Supplanting the Arcadian 'laurels' with which winners are, traditionally, crowned, McLean's visor design innovation, suggests that it is not impossible to challenge and transform apparently timeless hierarchies of power and supremacy, so that ex-slaves may also become victors. McLean's fashion designs all work within this reach of fashion towards the carnivalesque inversion of social orderliness through play, display and sartorial activism.

HATWALK/ Guerilla Millinery/ Part of the Cultural Olympiad

Stealth Visor for the Duke of Wellington Project HATWALK The 2012 Cultural Olympiad would not have been representative of London's creative industries without fashion design. Sponsored by the Mayor of London brought milliners to organise an alternative to the catwalk format , the designers brought together a Hatwalk, uniting landmark heritage statues, classical and modern, to be crowned with a new bespoke design piece each. Together forming a pedestrian navigation through the Jubilee city, the hats also invited twenty one milliners to consider the specificity of working for the great outdoors. Rigorously tested in wind tunnel laboratory to withstand hurricane wind speeds and squally shows the designs aim to bring the 'exclusive' culture of fashion accessories to the inclusive culture of international festival. Working with new technologies of engineering, such as laser measuring tools, and crane for assemblage and fitting, McLean brings new meaning to the familiar figures of national public authority. Since the storming of the Bastille in revolutionary France it has been traditional for the new order to symbolize change through attacking public statuary. In a similar vein, Hatwalk, invites spectators to reconsider the relationship between distant and lofty personages of power and the sartorial insignia through which their power is signified. Crowned with a revolutionary red ' large plexi punk neon number' the Duke of Wellington, at Wellington arch is the first in the Hatwalk exhibition. The originality of this research consists in the effects of surprise and Brechtian 'de familiarisation' resulting from the unexpected. The effects of this structural carnivalesque inversion of authorities can involve a range of reactions from the disdain of the offended to the laughter and pleasure of the surprised. This strategy of bringing the ludic element of play to the formalised authority of legitimised power is also signified through the conscious use of materials and colour in a monochrome and uniform culture of statuary. Here the difference in materials and visible surface of the design signifies the differences that need to be included within a socio political order before it may takes its place in history as being representative of the people it is entrusted to lead. This research output continues the work that led to the Hat Anthology exhibition (output 1), the Fifty Hats that Changed the World (output 2), the Jamaican Olympic team headwear design ( output 4), and is continued in the design, merchandise, accessories and avant garde artefacts of the House of Flora ( see website). The iterative process of the research brings innovation within continuity to McLean's work. It is difficult to theorise the 'rigour' that is undeniably present in a creative design praxis except in that McLean;s research outputs are always surprising and unexpected.

Negligent Eye

This presentation was both an illustrated lecture and a published paper presented at the IMPACT 9 Conference Printmaking in the Post-Print Age, Hangzhou China 2015. It was an extension of the exhibition catalogue essay for the Bluecoat Gallery Exhibition of the same name. In 2014 I curated an exhibition The Negligent Eye at the Bluecoat Gallery in Liverpool as the result of longstanding interest in scanning and 3D printing and the role of these in changing the field of Print within Fine Art Practice. In the aftermath of curatingshow I have continued to reflect on this material with reference to the writings of Vilém Flusser and Hito Steyerl. The work in the exhibition came from a wide range of artists of all generations most of whom are not explicitly located within Printmaking. Whilst some work did not use any scanning technology at all, a shared fascination with the particular translating device of the systematizing ‘eye’ of a scanning digital video camera, flatbed or medical scanner was expressed by all the work in the show. Through writing this paper I aim to extend my own understanding of questions, which arose from the juxtapositions of work and the production of the accompanying catalogue. The show developed in dialogue with curators Bryan Biggs and Sarah-Jane Parsons of the Bluecoat Gallery who sent a series of questions about scanning to participating artists. In reflecting upon their answers I will extend the discussions begun in the process of this research. A kind of created attention deficit disorder seems to operate on us all today to make and distribute images and information at speed. What value do ways of making which require slow looking or intensive material explorations have in this accelerated system? What model of the world is being constructed by the drive to simulated realities toward ever-greater resolution, so called high definition? How are our perceptions of reality being altered by the world-view presented in the smooth colourful ever morphing simulations that surround us? The limitations of digital technology are often a starting point for artists to reflect on our relationship to real-world fragility. I will be looking at practices where tactility or dimensionality in a form of hard copy engages with these questions using examples from the exhibition. Artists included in the show were: Cory Arcangel, Christiane Baumgartner, Thomas Bewick, Jyll Bradley, Maurice Carlin, Helen Chadwick, Susan Collins, Conroy/Sanderson, Nicky Coutts, Elizabeth Gossling, Beatrice Haines, Juneau Projects, Laura Maloney, Bob Matthews, London Fieldworks (with the participation of Gustav Metzger), Marilène Oliver, Flora Parrott, South Atlantic Souvenirs, Imogen Stidworthy, Jo Stockham, Wolfgang Tillmans, Alessa Tinne, Michael Wegerer, Rachel Whiteread, Jane and Louise Wilson. Scanning, Art, Technology, Copy, Materiality.