Revival: The Aesthetics of Revival Subcultures and Re-enactment Groups Explored Through Fashion Image-making

This research aims, through performance, fashion photography, video making and the theatrical devices that accompany such practice, to explore the style of a contemporary, largely male, subcultural collective. The common term that joins these loosely bound groups is revival as they appear driven by an impulse to simulate and re-enact the dress, rites and rituals of British and American subcultures from a perceived golden era. The similarities with re-enactment societies are also explored and exploited to the end of developing new style- based aesthetics in male fashion image-making formed around an elaborate re- enactment of Spartacus and the Third Servile Wars. Examined through comparative visuals (revivalists / re-enactors) a common thread is found in the wearing of leather as a metaphor for resistance, style and a pupa-like second skin. Subsequent findings of this research suggest that the cuirass of popular culture emerges as the motorcycle jacket of both the sword and sandal epic and the historical re-enactor. Addressing extremes in narcissistic dress and behaviour amongst certain individuals within these older male communities, this study also questions parts of established theory on subcultural development within the field of cultural studies and postulates on a metaphorical dandy gene. Citing two leading practitioners in the field of fashion photography the work of both Richard Prince and Bruce Weber is viewed through the lens of the subcultural aesthete and conclusions drawn as to their role as agents provocateurs in the development of the fashion image with a revival based narrative. In addition the often used term retro is examined, categorised and granted its own genre within fashion image- making and defined as being separate from the practice element of this research. Reflecting a multi-disciplinary approach that engages the researcher as Bricoleur and participant observer this research operates in the reflexive realm and uses simulation as a key method of enquiry. The practice-led outcome of this investigation takes the form of a final research exhibition that takes the form of a substantial installation of photography, video, clothing and textile prints. Key terms: dandy gene, historical re-enactment groups, internal theatre, narcissism, narrative image-making, reflexive practice, revival as theatre, subcultures,

Dissenting Exhibitions by Artists (1968-1998). Reframing Marxist Exhibition Legacy.

The goal of this thesis is to look at the critical and dissenting value of exhibitions through the examination of four cases studies, based on six exhibitions taking place between 1968 and 1998 in Latin and North America. The exhibitions belong to the history of modern and contemporary exhibitions and curating, a field of research and study that has only started to be written about in the last two decades. This investigation contributes to it, in its creation of new genealogies by connecting previously overlooked antecedents, or by proposing new relations within established lineages, at the intersection of a specific historiography; to address exhibitions, a tradition of artists acting as curators and an emerging history of curating. The examined exhibitions were put together by artists or artist collectives and were placed in a liminal position between artistic and curatorial practice. All the cases presented a distinct proposal in relation to art and social change, a fact that connects them, in their aims and modus operandi, to a Marxist and neo-Marxist critical and transformative legacy. The cases address the following connections: exhibition as political site (Tucumán Arde, 1968); exhibition as social space (The People’s Choice (Arroz con Mango), 1981); exhibition as encounter (Rooms with a view, We the People, Art/Artifact, 1987-88); and exhibition as an exchange situation (El Museo de la Calle, 1998-2001). Key to their analysis is the concept of dissensus, as put forward by Jacques Rancière. Within this theoretical framework, these exhibitions put into practice particular cases of dissensus in a given distribution of the sensible. All of them tried to deal with their thematic concerns by performing them as a praxis. They dissent with the way in which reality was formatted in their historical moment and challenge the exhibition medium itself opening new ways of doing and making in the exhibition field. Therefore, in this thesis the dissenting value of exhibitions is closely related to its main features as a medium, namely their temporality, heterogeneity and flexibility, which contribute to their potential for creative analysis and propositioning. In the case of these exhibitions, this capability is brought into play for institutional interrogation, for offering alternative cultural narratives and also for inspiring new imaginary realms.

Robot

Klimowski’s graphic novel, Robot, was commissioned by the Adam Mickiewicz Institute in Warsaw to mark Poland’s Presidency of the European Union’s Cultural Programme in 2011. Self Made Hero and Timof Comiks published the book simultaneously in the UK and Poland. Klimowski adapted and translated Stanisław Lem’s short fiction ‘The sanatorium of Dr Vliperdius’ (1977), aiming to develop a new position for illustration and the graphic novel aside from mainstream graphic novels and literature, and a new approach to visual bookmaking. The project proved to be an artistic challenge: Lem often proclaimed his disapproval of adaptations of his work, dismissing even Andrei Tarkovsky’s film adaptation (1972) of his novel Solaris (1961). Produced in collaboration with Danusia Schejbal, Robot features a diptych form, counter-pointing (both formally and conceptually) two contrasting stories. The first is a colourful parable describing a totalitarian and autocratic regime that must be vanquished, the second a monochromatic dialectic on philosophy, humanism and mechanisation. Klimowski and Schejbal’s publication is intended to challenge stereotypes and established styles and formulas associated with the production of graphic novels. Much emphasis was laid upon the depiction of space and location, artificiality and realism. Silence and the suspension of linear time were also strong features of the artists’ investigations. These qualities were recognised and discussed by the media, in particular by a panel of critics on Polish Television’s Cultural Channel, in the most respected comics blog, Zeszyty Komiksowe (http://zeszytykomiksowe.org/recenzja_robot, 2012), and by Monika Malkowskain in the national newspaper Rzeczpospolita (2011). The artists gave a special talk at the Science Museum, London, during the Robot Festival ‘Robotville’ (December 2011). Lem, one of the world’s leading writers of science fiction, was featured throughout the year in the UK on stage, cinema and in literary events (Barbican Centre London, British Library, Science Museum London).