Colagens têxteis: em busca de um design sustentável

Os desafios dos designers nos dias de hoje são inúmeros, sendo um deles o de desenvolver produtos que atendam ao mercado sem deixar de lado as preocupações com a sustentabilidade, seja ambiental, sócio-ética ou econômica. Assim sendo, a própria disputa para alcançar novos patamares de destaque no mercado também fez proliferar novas tecnologias de produção sustentável como um fator diferenciador nos dias de hoje que, para além de preservar a natureza, conquista uma larga faixa de clientes sensíveis a este tipo de preocupações. É objetivo deste trabalho a criação de produtos de design de moda e decoração e sua verificação enquanto design sustentável. Neste contexto, enquadra-se este trabalho que visa desenvolver produtos de moda e decoração realizados com a técnica da colagem têxtil, resultando assim, em produtos inovadores, únicos, intemporais e com design. A presente investigação desenvolveu-se em parceria com o Banco de Vestuário de Caxias do Sul, que forneceu dados para o estudo do setor têxtil e levantamento dos resíduos da indústria têxtil da região para caracterização do setor, além de disponibilizar os resíduos têxteis que serviram de base para a criação de produtos de moda e de decoração mais sustentáveis. Para a criação das superfícies têxteis coladas foram desenvolvidas amostras com testes de temperaturas e tempos para verificar a combinação que mais se adequa a cada tipo de matéria-prima. Além de fazer uso destes resíduos, a investigação contou com o auxílio de mão-de-obra de artesãs que, por sua vez, foram capacitadas com a técnica da colagem têxtil através de dois workshops. Após esta etapa, para fazer a análise dos níveis de sustentabilidade dos produtos, utilizou-se o Sustainability Design Orienting Toolkit (SDO) que é um conjunto de ferramentas que visa a orientação dos designers no desenvolvimento de produtos em termos de sustentabilidade ambiental, sócio-ética e econômica.

Network virtualisation from an operator perspective

Network virtualisation is seen as a promising approach to overcome the so-called “Internet impasse” and bring innovation back into the Internet, by allowing easier migration towards novel networking approaches as well as the coexistence of complementary network architectures on a shared infrastructure in a commercial context. Recently, the interest from the operators and mainstream industry in network virtualisation has grown quite significantly, as the potential benefits of virtualisation became clearer, both from an economical and an operational point of view. In the beginning, the concept has been mainly a research topic and has been materialized in small-scale testbeds and research network environments. This PhD Thesis aims to provide the network operator with a set of mechanisms and algorithms capable of managing and controlling virtual networks. To this end, we propose a framework that aims to allocate, monitor and control virtual resources in a centralized and efficient manner. In order to analyse the performance of the framework, we performed the implementation and evaluation on a small-scale testbed. To enable the operator to make an efficient allocation, in real-time, and on-demand, of virtual networks onto the substrate network, it is proposed a heuristic algorithm to perform the virtual network mapping. For the network operator to obtain the highest profit of the physical network, it is also proposed a mathematical formulation that aims to maximize the number of allocated virtual networks onto the physical network. Since the power consumption of the physical network is very significant in the operating costs, it is important to make the allocation of virtual networks in fewer physical resources and onto physical resources already active. To address this challenge, we propose a mathematical formulation that aims to minimize the energy consumption of the physical network without affecting the efficiency of the allocation of virtual networks. To minimize fragmentation of the physical network while increasing the revenue of the operator, it is extended the initial formulation to contemplate the re-optimization of previously mapped virtual networks, so that the operator has a better use of its physical infrastructure. It is also necessary to address the migration of virtual networks, either for reasons of load balancing or for reasons of imminent failure of physical resources, without affecting the proper functioning of the virtual network. To this end, we propose a method based on cloning techniques to perform the migration of virtual networks across the physical infrastructure, transparently, and without affecting the virtual network. In order to assess the resilience of virtual networks to physical network failures, while obtaining the optimal solution for the migration of virtual networks in case of imminent failure of physical resources, the mathematical formulation is extended to minimize the number of nodes migrated and the relocation of virtual links. In comparison with our optimization proposals, we found out that existing heuristics for mapping virtual networks have a poor performance. We also found that it is possible to minimize the energy consumption without penalizing the efficient allocation. By applying the re-optimization on the virtual networks, it has been shown that it is possible to obtain more free resources as well as having the physical resources better balanced. Finally, it was shown that virtual networks are quite resilient to failures on the physical network.

Interactions of cetaceans with Spanish and Portuguese fisheries in Atlantic waters : costs, benefits and implications for management

With the aim to provide new insights into operational cetacean-fishery interactions in Atlantic waters, this thesis assesses interactions of cetaceans with Spanish and Portuguese fishing vessels operating in Iberian and South West Atlantic waters. Different opportunistic research methodologies were applied, including an interview survey with fishers (mainly skippers) and onboard observations by fisheries observers and skippers, to describe different types of interactions and to identify potential hotspots for cetacean-fishery interactions and the cetacean species most involved, and to quantify the extent and the consequences of these interactions in terms of benefits and costs for cetaceans and fisheries. In addition, the suitability of different mitigation strategies was evaluated and discussed. The results of this work indicate that cetaceans interact frequently with Spanish and Portuguese fishing vessels, sometimes in a beneficial way (e.g. cetaceans indicate fish schools in purse seine fisheries), but mostly with negative consequences (depredation on catch, gear damage and cetacean bycatch). Significant economic loss and high bycatch rates are, however, only reported for certain fisheries and associated with particular cetacean species. In Galician fisheries, substantial economic loss was reported as a result of bottlenose dolphins damaging artisanal coastal gillnets, while high catch loss may arise from common dolphins scattering fish in purse seine fisheries. High cetacean bycatch mortality arises in trawl fisheries, mainly of common dolphin and particularly during trawling in water depths below 350 m, and in coastal set gillnet fisheries (mainly common and bottlenose dolphins). In large-scale bottom-set longline fisheries in South West Atlantic waters, sperm whales may significantly reduce catch rates through depredation on catch. The high diversity of cetacean-fishery interactions observed in the study area indicates that case-specific management strategies are needed to reduce negative impacts on fisheries and cetaceans. Acoustic deterrent devices (pingers) may be used to prevent small cetaceans from approaching and getting entangled in purse seines and set gillnets, although possible problems include cetacean habituation to the pinger sounds, as well as negative side effects on non-target cetaceans (habitat exclusion) and fisheries target species (reduced catch rates). For sardine and horse mackerel, target species of Iberian Atlantic fisheries, no aversive reaction to pinger sounds was detected during tank experiments conducted in the scope of this thesis. Bycatch in trawls may be reduced by the implementation of time/area restrictions of fishing activity. In addition, the avoidance of fishing areas with high cetacean abundance combined with the minimization of fishery-specific sound cues that possibly attract cetaceans, may also help to decrease interactions. In large-scale bottom-set longline fisheries, cetacean depredation on catch may be reduced by covering hooked fish with net sleeves ("umbrellas") provided that catch rates are not negatively affected by this gear modification. Trap fishing, as an alternative fishing method to bottom-set gillnetting and longlining, also has the potential to reduce cetacean bycatch and depredation, given that fish catch rates are similar to the rates obtained by bottom-set gillnets and longlines, whereas cetacean by-catch is unlikely. Economic incentives, such as the eco-certification of dolphin-safe fishing methods, should be promoted in order to create an additional source of income for fishers negatively affected by interactions with cetaceans, which, in turn, may also increase fishers’ willingness to accept and adopt mitigation measures. Although the opportunistic sampling methods applied in this work have certain restrictions concerning their reliability and precision, the results are consistent with previous studies in the same area. Moreover, they allow for the active participation of fishers that can provide important complementary ecological and technical knowledge required for cetacean management and conservation.