Contribution to the study of the Ria de Aveiro inlet morphodynamics

Over the years it was observed at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet, near the head of the north breakwater, a depth increase that might threaten the stability of this structure. A trend of accretion in the navigation channel of this lagoon is observed, endangering the navigation in this region. In order to understand the origin of these and other trends observed, the knowledge of the sediment transport in the study area is imperative. The main aim of this work is understanding the dominant physical processes in the sediment transport of sediment at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet and adjacent area, improving knowledge of this region morphodynamics. The methodology followed in this study consisted in the analyzes of the topohydrographic surveys performed by the Administration of the Aveiro Harbor, and in the numerical simulations results performed with the morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D. The analysis of the surveys was performed by studying the temporal evolution of the bathymetry. The numerical analysis was based on the implementation of the model at the study area, sensitivity analysis of the formulations used to compute the sediment transport to the variation of input parameters (e.g. depth, sediment size, tidal currents) and analysis of the sediment uxes and bathymetric changes predicted. The simulations considered as sediment transport forcing the tidal currents only and the coupled forcing of tides and waves. Considering the wave e ect as sediment transport forcing, both monochromatic waves and a wave regime were simulated. The results revealed that the observed residual sediment transport patterns are generated due to the channel con guration. Inside the lagoon the uxes are mainly induced by the tidal currents action, restricting the action of waves to the inlet and adjacent coast. In the navigation channel the residual sediment uxes predicted are directed o - shore with values between 7 and 40 m3=day generating accretions of approximately 10 m3=day for the shallower region and 35 m3=day for the region between the tidal gauge and the tri^angulo das mar es. At the inlet, the residual uxes are approximately 30 m3=day inducing trends of erosion of approximately 20 m3=day. At the North side of the nearshore accretion is predicted, while at the South side is predicted erosion, at the rates of 250 and 1500 m3=day, respectively. It was also concluded that the waves with higher contribution to the residual sediment uxes are those with heights between 4 and 5 m. However, the storm waves with heights bigger than 5 m, despite their 10% of frequency of occurrence are responsible for 25% of the observed sediment transport.

Integrated coastal geoengineering approach for maritime environments

This dissertation introduces several methodological approaches which integrate a proposed coastal management model in an interdisciplinary perspective. The research presented herein is displayed as a set of publications comprising different thematic outlooks. The thesis develops an integrated coastal geoengineering approach which is intrinsically linked to the studied maritime environments. From sandy coasts and marine works to rocky platforms and sea cliffs, this study includes field work between Caminha – Figueira da Foz (NW Portugal) and Galicia (NW Spain). The research also involves an analysis and geological-geotechnical characterisation of natural rock (armourstone) and artificial units (concrete blocks) applied to coastal structures. The main goal is to contribute to the characterisation and re-evaluation of georesources and to determine armourstone suitability and availability from its source (quarry). It was also important to diagnose the geomaterials in situ concerning their degradation/deterioration level on the basis of the current status of the coastal protection works in order to facilitate more efficient monitoring and maintenance, with economic benefits. In the rocky coast approach the coastal blocks were studied along the platform, but also the geoforms were studied from a coastal morphodynamics point of view. A shoreline evolution analysis was developed for sandy coasts through Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) extension. In addition, the spatial and statistical analysis applied to sea cliffs allowed the establishment of susceptibility zones to erosion and hazardous areas. All of these studies have different purposes and results however, there is a common denominator – GIS mapping. Hence, apart from the studied coastal environment, there is an integrated system which includes a sequence of procedures and methodologies that persisted during the research period. This is a step forward in the study of different coastal environments by using almost the same methodologies. This will allow the characterisation, monitoring and assessment of coastal protection works, rocky coasts, and shore platforms. With such data, it is possible to propose or recommend strategies for coastal and shoreline management based on several justifications in terms of social, economic, and environmental questions, or even provide a GIS-based planning support system reinforced by geocartographic decisions. Overall the development of the applied cartography embraces six stages which will allow the production of detailed maps of the maritime environment: (1) high-resolution aerial imagery surveys; (2) visual inspection and systematic monitoring; (3) applied field datasheet; (4) in situ evaluation; (5) scanline surveying; and (6) GIS mapping. This thesis covers fundamental matters that were developed over the course of scientific publication and as a consequence they represent the results obtained and discussed. The subjects directly related to the thesis architecture are: (i) cartography applied to coastal dynamics (including an art historical analysis as a tool to comprehend the coastal evolution and the littoral zone); (ii) georesources assessment (the role of cartography in georesources zoning, assessment and armourstone durability); (iii) coastal geoengineering applications and monitoring (Espinho pilot site in NW Portugal as an experimental field); (iv) rocky coast and shore platform studies and characterisation; (v) sandy and mixed environment approaches; (vi) coastal geosciences GIS mapping and photogrammetric surveying (coastal geoengineering); and (vii) shoreline change mapping and coastal management strategies (the CartGalicia Project as an example – NW Spain). Finally, all of these thematic areas were crucial to generate the conceptual models proposed and to shape the future of integrated coastal coastal geoengineering management.