Contribution to the study of the Ria de Aveiro inlet morphodynamics

Over the years it was observed at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet, near the head of the north breakwater, a depth increase that might threaten the stability of this structure. A trend of accretion in the navigation channel of this lagoon is observed, endangering the navigation in this region. In order to understand the origin of these and other trends observed, the knowledge of the sediment transport in the study area is imperative. The main aim of this work is understanding the dominant physical processes in the sediment transport of sediment at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet and adjacent area, improving knowledge of this region morphodynamics. The methodology followed in this study consisted in the analyzes of the topohydrographic surveys performed by the Administration of the Aveiro Harbor, and in the numerical simulations results performed with the morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D. The analysis of the surveys was performed by studying the temporal evolution of the bathymetry. The numerical analysis was based on the implementation of the model at the study area, sensitivity analysis of the formulations used to compute the sediment transport to the variation of input parameters (e.g. depth, sediment size, tidal currents) and analysis of the sediment uxes and bathymetric changes predicted. The simulations considered as sediment transport forcing the tidal currents only and the coupled forcing of tides and waves. Considering the wave e ect as sediment transport forcing, both monochromatic waves and a wave regime were simulated. The results revealed that the observed residual sediment transport patterns are generated due to the channel con guration. Inside the lagoon the uxes are mainly induced by the tidal currents action, restricting the action of waves to the inlet and adjacent coast. In the navigation channel the residual sediment uxes predicted are directed o - shore with values between 7 and 40 m3=day generating accretions of approximately 10 m3=day for the shallower region and 35 m3=day for the region between the tidal gauge and the tri^angulo das mar es. At the inlet, the residual uxes are approximately 30 m3=day inducing trends of erosion of approximately 20 m3=day. At the North side of the nearshore accretion is predicted, while at the South side is predicted erosion, at the rates of 250 and 1500 m3=day, respectively. It was also concluded that the waves with higher contribution to the residual sediment uxes are those with heights between 4 and 5 m. However, the storm waves with heights bigger than 5 m, despite their 10% of frequency of occurrence are responsible for 25% of the observed sediment transport.

Monitoring sandy shores morphologies by DGPS: a practical tool to generate digital elevation models

The highly dynamic nature of some sandy shores with continuous morphological changes require the development of efficient and accurate methodological strategies for coastal hazard assessment and morphodynamic characterisation. During the past decades, the general methodological approach for the establishment of coastal monitoring programmes was based on photogrammetry or classical geodetic techniques. With the advent of new geodetic techniques, space-based and airborne-based, new methodologies were introduced in coastal monitoring programmes. This paper describes the development of a monitoring prototype that is based on the use of global positioning system (GPS). The prototype has a GPS multiantenna mounted on a fast surveying platform, a land vehicle appropriate for driving in the sand (four-wheel quad). This system was conceived to perform a network of shore profiles in sandy shores stretches (subaerial beach) that extend for several kilometres from which high-precision digital elevation models can be generated. An analysis of the accuracy and precision of some differential GPS kinematic methodologies is presented. The development of an adequate survey methodology is the first step in morphodynamic shore characterisation or in coastal hazard assessment. The sample method and the computational interpolation procedures are important steps for producing reliable three-dimensional surface maps that are real as possible. The quality of several interpolation methods used to generate grids was tested in areas where there were data gaps. The results obtained allow us to conclude that with the developed survey methodology, it is possible to Survey sandy shores stretches, under spatial scales of kilometers, with a vertical accuracy of greater than 0.10 m in the final digital elevation models.