Colagens têxteis: em busca de um design sustentável

Os desafios dos designers nos dias de hoje são inúmeros, sendo um deles o de desenvolver produtos que atendam ao mercado sem deixar de lado as preocupações com a sustentabilidade, seja ambiental, sócio-ética ou econômica. Assim sendo, a própria disputa para alcançar novos patamares de destaque no mercado também fez proliferar novas tecnologias de produção sustentável como um fator diferenciador nos dias de hoje que, para além de preservar a natureza, conquista uma larga faixa de clientes sensíveis a este tipo de preocupações. É objetivo deste trabalho a criação de produtos de design de moda e decoração e sua verificação enquanto design sustentável. Neste contexto, enquadra-se este trabalho que visa desenvolver produtos de moda e decoração realizados com a técnica da colagem têxtil, resultando assim, em produtos inovadores, únicos, intemporais e com design. A presente investigação desenvolveu-se em parceria com o Banco de Vestuário de Caxias do Sul, que forneceu dados para o estudo do setor têxtil e levantamento dos resíduos da indústria têxtil da região para caracterização do setor, além de disponibilizar os resíduos têxteis que serviram de base para a criação de produtos de moda e de decoração mais sustentáveis. Para a criação das superfícies têxteis coladas foram desenvolvidas amostras com testes de temperaturas e tempos para verificar a combinação que mais se adequa a cada tipo de matéria-prima. Além de fazer uso destes resíduos, a investigação contou com o auxílio de mão-de-obra de artesãs que, por sua vez, foram capacitadas com a técnica da colagem têxtil através de dois workshops. Após esta etapa, para fazer a análise dos níveis de sustentabilidade dos produtos, utilizou-se o Sustainability Design Orienting Toolkit (SDO) que é um conjunto de ferramentas que visa a orientação dos designers no desenvolvimento de produtos em termos de sustentabilidade ambiental, sócio-ética e econômica.

Post-fire vegetation regeneration in Portugal : implications for management

This thesis aims at improving the knowledge on the post-fire vegetation regeneration. For that, forests and shrublands were studied, after forest fires and experimental fires. Maritime Pine (Pinus pinaster) recruitment after fire was studied. Fire severity was evidenced as a major effect on this process. High crown fire severity can combust the pines, destroying the seed bank and impeding post fire pine recruitment. However, crown combustion also influences the post-fire conditions on the soil surface, since high crown combustion (HCC) will decrease the postfire needle cast. After low crown combustion (LCC) (scorched rather than torched crowns), a considerable needle cover was observed, along with a higher density of pine seedlings. The overall trends of post-fire recruitment among LCC and HCC areas could be significantly attributed to cover by needles, as well by the estimation of fire severity using the diameters of the burned twigs (TSI). Fire increased the germination from the soil seed bank of a Pinus pinaster forest, and the effects were also related with fire severity. The densities of seedlings of the dominant taxa (genus Erica and Calluna vulgaris) were contrastingly affected in relation to the unburned situation, depending on fire severity, as estimated from the degree of fire-induced crown damage (LCC/HCC), as well as using a severity index based on the diameters of remaining twigs (TSI). Low severity patches had an increase in germination density relatively to the control, while high severity patches suffered a reduction. After an experimental fire in a heathland dominated by Pterospartum tridentatum, Erica australis and E. umbellata, no net differences in seedling emergence were observed, in relation to the pre-fire situation. However, rather than having no effect, the heterogeneity of temperatures caused by fire promoted caused divergent effects over the burned plot in terms of Erica australis germination – a progressive increased was observed in the plots were maximum temperature recorded ranged from 29 to 42.5ºC and decreased in plots with maximum temperature ranging from 51.5 to 74.5ºC. In this heathland, the seed density of two of the main species (E. australis and E. umbellata) was higher under their canopies, but the same was not true for P. tridentatum. The understory regeneration in pine and eucalypt stands, 5 to 6 years post fire, has been strongly associated with post-fire management practices. The effect of forest type was, comparatively, insignificant. Soil tilling, tree harvesting and shrub clearance, were linked to lower soil cover percentages. However, while all these management operations negatively affected the cover of resprouters, seeders were not affected by soil tilling. A strong influence of biogeographic region was identified, suggesting that more vulnerable regions may suffer higher effects of management, even under comparatively lower management pressure than more productive regions. This emphasizes the need to adequate post-fire management techniques to the target regions.