Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Dispersion of Liposome with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alpha-Lipoic Acid and Kinetin

The present study aimed to evaluate the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and kinetin, as well as their effects on the hydration and viscoelastic skin properties. The photoprotection was determined in vitro (antioxidant activity) and in vivo on UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin. The hydration effects were performed with the application of the formulations under study on the forearm of human volunteers and skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application and daily applications during 4 weeks in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture and viscoelastic properties. The raw material under study possessed free-radical scavenging activity and the formulation with it protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV damage. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the formulation under study enhanced stratum corneum skin moisture and also showed hydration effects in deeper layers of the skin. Thus, it can be concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing a dispersion of liposome with MAP, ALA and kinetin under study showed photoprotective effects in skin barrier function as well as pronounced hydration effects on human skin, which suggests that this dispersion has potential antiaging effects.

Bioactive compounds with effects on inflammation markers in humans

Obesity and other chronic diseases are accompanied by adipose tissue, liver, pancreas, muscle and brain low-grade chronic inflammation. Indeed, the obese condition and metabolic syndrome are characterized by an increased expression of inflammatory cytokines and infiltration of immune cells in adipocytes. The inflammatory response promotes the activation of transcriptional factors and pro-inflammatory cytokines, which can lead to an unresolved inflammatory response associated with an inhibition of insulin signalling and high risk for cardiovascular events. Epidemiological and intervention studies have been carried out to find out dietary patterns, foods and bioactive compounds with protective anti-inflammatory actions. The most studied compounds are polyphenols, especially isoflavone and anthocyanin, but quercertin, catechin and resveratrol have also been investigated. Furthermore, some studies have reported the effects of milk peptides, plant sterol and stanol, L-carnitine and alpha-lipoic acid on inflammatory processes. This review aimed to collect and discuss those relevant studies reported in the scientific literature following a systematic scientific search about the effect of such bioactive compounds on inflammation in humans.