Evaluation of sun protection factor of cosmetic formulations by a simple visual in vitro method mimicking the in vivo method

A new concept for in vitro visual evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic formulations based on a supramolecular ultraviolet (UV) dosimeter was clearly demonstrated. The method closely parallels the method validated for in vivo evaluation and relies on the determination of the slightest perceptible bleaching of an iron-complex dye/nanocrystallinetitanium dioxide interface (UV dosimeter) in combination with an artificial skin substrate simulating the actual human skin in the presence and absence of a cosmetic formulation. The successful evaluation of SPF was ensured by the similarity of the erythema response of our dosimeter and human skin to UV light irradiation. A good linear correlation of in vitro and in vivo data up to SPF 40 confirmed the effectiveness of such a simple, cheap, and fast method. In short, here we unravel a convenient and accessible visual FPS evaluation method that can help improving the control on cosmetic products contributing to the reduction of skin cancer, one of the critical public health issues nowadays. (C) 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 101:726732, 2012

Genotoxic and mutagenic effects of erythrosine B, a xanthene food dye, on HepG2 cells

Erythrosine (ErB) is a xanthene and an US Food and Drug Administration approved dye used in foods, drugs and cosmetics. Although its utilization is permitted, ErB is described as inhibitor of enzymes and protein-protein interactions and is toxic to pituitary and spermatogenesis processes. However, the genotoxicity and mutagenicity of ErB is inconclusive in the literature. This study aimed to analyze the genotoxicity of this dye using the alkaline comet assay and is the first investigation to evaluate ErB mutagenicity using the cytokinesis block micronucleus cytome (CBMN-Cyt) assay in HepG2 cells. These cells were chosen because they produce phase I and phase II enzymes that can mimic in vivo metabolism. The cells were treated with seven concentrations (0.1-70.0 mu g mL(-1)) of ErB, and the results showed genotoxicity at the two highest concentrations and mutagenicity at six concentrations. Furthermore, as micronuclei result from clastogenic and aneugenic processes, while comet assay is often considered more sensitive and detects DNA single strain breaks, we suggest that an aneugenic is responsible for the observed damage. Although ErB is approved for use in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, it must be used carefully because it damages the DNA structure. (C) 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Dispersion of Liposome with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alpha-Lipoic Acid and Kinetin

The present study aimed to evaluate the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and kinetin, as well as their effects on the hydration and viscoelastic skin properties. The photoprotection was determined in vitro (antioxidant activity) and in vivo on UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin. The hydration effects were performed with the application of the formulations under study on the forearm of human volunteers and skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application and daily applications during 4 weeks in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture and viscoelastic properties. The raw material under study possessed free-radical scavenging activity and the formulation with it protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV damage. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the formulation under study enhanced stratum corneum skin moisture and also showed hydration effects in deeper layers of the skin. Thus, it can be concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing a dispersion of liposome with MAP, ALA and kinetin under study showed photoprotective effects in skin barrier function as well as pronounced hydration effects on human skin, which suggests that this dispersion has potential antiaging effects.

The Use of Nanotechnology in Cosmetic Formulations: The Influence of Vehicle in the Vitamin A Skin Penetration

Despite the efficacy of topical retinoic acid, skin reactions have limited its acceptance by patients. Other retinoids, like Retinyl Palmitate (RP), are considerably less irritating, but they are also less effective. In order to enhance the performance of retinoids, in this work RP has been added to cosmetic formulations such as nanoemulsions, which can provide better penetration of this active substance. Because the vehicle can directly influence the skin penetration and the effectiveness of RP, two skin care products containing 5000 UI RP have been developed and investigated, namely a nanoemulsifying system and a classic gel cream. In vitro penetration tests were conducted by using Franz diffusion cells and placing porcine ear skin and iso-propanol in the receptor compartment. The RP concentration in the skin layers was analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography, and a Zeta-Sizer system was employed for measurement of the the particle size distribution. The penetration tests revealed a large difference between the vehicles in terms of the RP concentrations in each skin layer. The classic gel cream furnished better RP penetration in both the stratum corneum and the epidermis without stratum corneum + dermis, as compared to the self-nanoemulsifying system. The two vehicles displayed the same particle size (between 100 and 200 nm). Better understanding of RP skin delivery using different vehicles has been acquired, and the importance of evaluating the efficacy of nanocosmetics. Results from the present study should also contribute to the assessment of commercial self-nanoemulsifying systems with potential application in the facile production of nanoemulsions.

Electrochemical Reduction as a Powerful Tool to Highlight the Possible Formation of By-Products More Toxic Than Sudan III Dye

The present work describes the electrochemical reduction of the azo dye Sudan III in methanol/0.01 mol l(-1) Bu4NBF4 at applied potential of -1.2V, which promotes 98% discoloration of the commercial sample. The reduction products were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography, after optimized conditions for 20 aromatic amines with carcinogenic potentiality. The harmful compounds such as: aniline, benzidine, o-toluidine, 2,6-dimethylaniline, 4,4'-oxydianiline, 4,4'-metileno-bis-2-methylaniline and 4-aminobiphenyl are formed after azo bond cleavage. The electrochemical reduction is compared with chemical reduction by using sodium thiosulfate. Our findings illustrates that commercial Sudan III under reductive condition can forms a number of products, which some are known active genotoxins. The technique could be used to mimic important redox reactions in human metabolism or environment, highlighting the possible formation of by-products more toxic than the original dyes.

Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy

Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3 h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Cosmetic Orbital Inferomedial Decompression: Quantifying the Risk of Diplopia Associated With Extraocular Muscle Dimensions

Purpose: To quantify the risk of new diplopia in inferomedial orbital decompression performed for cosmetic reasons. Methods: Retrospective analysis of 114 patients with Graves orbitopathy who underwent an inferomedial orbital decompression. No patient had diplopia in any of the gaze positions or optic neuropathy. A single coronal slice 9 mm posterior to the lateral orbital rim was employed to quantify the muscular index of the extraocular recti and of the superior complex. A control group of 56 patients imaged for other reasons were also measured. After surgery the oculomotor status of all patients who complained of diplopia and of 51 patients free of diplopia was measured with the prism and cover test in the primary and secondary gaze positions. Results: The rate of new-onset diplopia was 14.0% (16 patients). Eye deviations were confirmed in 14 patients. Of these, 10 had significant strabismus that warranted surgical or prism treatment. Most patients had esotropia associated with small vertical deviations. The size of the medial and inferior recti was significantly associated with the development of diplopia. The estimated odds for the appearance of diplopia in patients with muscle enlargement was 12.76 (medial rectus) and 5.21 (inferior rectus). Small-angle deviations were also detected in 27.4% of patients who did not experience diplopia. Conclusions: Medial and inferior recti enlargement is a strong predictor of new-onset diplopia. A large number of patients who do not report diplopia also present with small-angle deviations. (Ophthal Plast Reconstr Surg 2012;28:204-207)

Sevenfold enhancement on porphyrin dye efficiency by coordination of ruthenium polypyridine complexes

Sevenfold enhancement of photoconversion efficiency was achieved by incorporation of peripheral ruthenium complexes to a porphyrin dye, generating supramolecular effects capable of playing several key roles (e.g., transferring energy to, inhibiting aggregation, and accepting the hole generated in the porphyrin center after electron injection), providing new insights for the design of better DSSC photosensitizers.

Influence of the Sol-Gel pH Process and Compact Film on the Efficiency of TiO2-Based Dye-Sensitized Solar Cells

The influence of pH during hydrolysis of titanium(IV) isopropoxide on the morphological and electronic properties of TiO2 nanoparticles prepared by the sol-gel method is investigated and correlated to the photoelectrochemical parameters of dye-sensitized solar cells (DSCs) based on TiO2 films. Nanoparticles prepared under acid pH exhibit smaller particle size and higher surface area, which result in higher dye loadings and better short-circuit current densities than DSCs based on alkaline TiO2-processed films. On the other hand, the product of charge collection and separation quantum yields in films with TiO2 obtained by alkaline hydrolysis is c. a. 27% higher than for the acid TiO2 films. The combination of acid and alkaline TiO2 nanoparticles as mesoporous layer in DSCs results in a synergic effect with overall efficiencies up to 6.3%, which is better than the results found for devices employing one of the nanoparticles separately. These distinct nanoparticles can be also combined by using the layer-by-layer technique (LbL) to prepare compact TiO2 films applied before the mesoporous layer. DSCs employing photoanodes with 30 TiO2 bilayers have shown efficiencies up to 12% higher than the nontreated photoanode ones. These results can be conveniently used to develop optimized synthetic procedures of TiO2 nanoparticles for several dye-sensitized solar cell applications.

5-(1-(4-phenyl)-3-(4-nitrophenyl)triazene)-10,15,20-triphenylporphyrin: a new triazene-porphyrin dye and its spectroelectrochemical properties

The new triazene-porphyrin dye 5-(1-(4-phenyl)-3-(4-nitrophenyl)triazene)-10,15,20-triphenylporphyrin, encompassing a reactive protonated triazene moiety, was prepared starting from meso-tetraphenylporphyrin (H2TPP), first converting it to the 5-(4-nitrophenyl)-10,15,20-triphenylporphyrin, then reducing to the 5-(4-aminophenyl)-10,15,20-tri(phenyl) porphyrin intermediate, and reacting with the diazonium salt of 4-nitroaniline; and characterized by spectroscopic and electrochemical methods. The absorption spectrum of the neutral species resembled the sum of H2TPP and of 1,3-bis(4-nitrophenyl) triazene spectrum, but the deprotonated anionic species showed more delocalized frontier orbitals, behaving as a push-pull system exhibiting triazenide-to-porphyrin charge-transfer transitions.