2 resultados para cosmetic

em Repositório Científico da Universidade de Évora - Portugal


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Lavenders belong to the family Labiatae and represent some of the most popular medicinal plants of great economic importance. Their essential oils are important for the perfume, cosmetic, flavouring and pharmaceutical industries. However, despite its popularity, and the long tradition of use, biological properties of the various Lavandula species are not yet been well sustained by scientific or clinical studies and some available data being inconclusive and controversial [1]. Although Lavandula spp. have similar ethnobotanical properties, however, chemical composition and therapeutic uses differ from different species and main composition of essential oils showed differences with species and with the region were they grow [1,2,3]. L. stoechas L. subsps. luisieri (Rozeira) Rozeira. L. pedunculata (Mill.) Cav. and L. viridis L’Hér are endemic to the Iberian Peninsula, widespread in the South of Portugal, namely in Alentejo and Algarve. In our work, essential oils from the stems or leaves from wild grown plants of L. luisieri (Alentejo), L. pedunculata (Alentejo) and L. viridis (Algarve), were extracted by hydrodistillation and analyzed by GC-FID. Antimicrobial activity was evaluated by solid diffusion disk assay and minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) against pathogenic Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and food spoilage fungi.

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The preservation of modern and contemporary art and costume collections in museums requires a complete understanding of their constituent materials which are often synthetic or semi-synthetic polymers. An extraordinary amount of quality information can be gained from instrumental techniques, but some of them have the disadvantage of being destructive. This paper presents a new totally integrated non-invasive methodology, for the identification of polymers and their additives, on plastic artefacts in museums. NMR (nuclear magnetic resonance) and in-situ FTIR-ATR (attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy) combination allowed the full characterization of the structure of thesematerials and correct identification of each one. The NMR technique applied to leached surface exudates identified unequivocally a great number of additives, exceeding the Py–GC–MS analysis of micro-fragments in number and efficiency. Additionally, in-situ FTIR-ATR provided exactly the same information of the destructive μ-FTIR about the polymer structure and confirmed the presence of some additives. Eight costume pieces (cosmetic boxes and purses), dating to the beginning of the 20th century and belonging to the Portuguese National Museum of Costume and Fashion, were correctly identified with this new integrated methodology, as beingmade of plastics derived fromcellulose acetate or cellulose nitrate polymers, contradicting the initial information that these pieces were made of Bakelite. The identification of a surprisingly large number of different additives forms an added value of this methodology and opens a perspective of a quick and better characterization of plastic artefacts in museum environments.