Por baixo da pele outra pele: conjunto de obras artísticas. Corpo, ecrã e interface para uma visualidade háptica interativa

A tese teórico-prática de doutoramento apresentada contempla a investigação, a criação, a produção e a conceptualização da instalação artística interativa intitulada Por baixo da pele outra pele. A Obra é constituída por três objetos tridimensionais concebidos à escala humana. Recorre a materiais flexíveis, como têxteis, convidando o público (interator), à envolvência física, numa relação corporal sensorial e sensual com a obra. Os objetos contêm dispositivos técnicos interativos e sensores tácteis, que, ao serem utilizados, desencadeiam estímulos multissensoriais no espectador. A instalação interativa focaliza a experiência háptica e íntima do interator considerando os seus mecanismos sensoriais e cognitivos como um potencial aparato na construção de experiências fenomenológicas, singulares e individuais. A autora considera a interatividade enquanto elemento potenciador da experiência estética visual háptica. Na argumentação conceitual da obra, reflete-se sobre o tema da visualidade háptica interativa a partirdos conceitos de ecrã, corpo e interface, assim como de endossensorialidade. Instrumentam-se metodologias de investigação em ação, experimentais e observacionais. Apresentam-se os processos investigativos, criativos e técnicos necessários ao desenvolvimento e à materialização da instalação artística. A investigação revela-se de grande interesse para o avanço da pesquisa de novas linguagens experimentais apresentando estratégias de criação artística que, ao privilegiarem o corpo físico e fenomenológico do interator, transpõe a experiência háptica interativa para um grau interno de imersão motoro-sensorial; Underneath the skin another skin: art installation. Body, screen and interface towards an interactive haptic visuality. Abstract: The theoretical-practical doctorate dissertation presents the research and conceptual framework behind, and the processes leading to, the creation and production of the interactive installation art piece Underneath the skin, another skin. The piece is presented in the shape of three human-scale tridimentional objects. It is made from flexible materials, such as textiles, inviting the (interacting) audience, to physically engage in a bodily sensorial, and sensuous, relationship with the artwork. The objects enclose interactive devices and tactile sensors that, when used, trigger in the interactor multiple sensorial stimuli. The interactive installation focuses on the interactor's intimate haptic experience taking in consideration his or hers sensorial and cognitive mechanisms as a potential apparatus in the construction of unique individual phenomenological experiences. The author understands interactivity as a triggering element into an haptic visual aesthetical experience. The supporting conceptual reasoning deals with thought and criticism on interactive haptic visuality applied to the concepts of screen, body and interface, as well as with that of endo-sensoriality. The dissertation describes the use of experimental and observation research methodologies. It also elaborates on the research, creative and technical processes at play in the installation's development and realization. The research at hand has shown great potential for the further development of new experimental languages, as it presents art-creation strategies privileging the interactor's physical and phenomenological body, and thus able to take the interactive haptic experience onto an greater inner level of motor-sensorial immersion.

Memoires de Soie en Inde: La Ville de Kanchipuram et son art de Tissage

A cidade de Kanchipuram, no Estado de Tamilnadu, sul da Índia, é sinónimo de templos hindus, mas também do sari em seda. A migração de comunidades de tecelão para esta cidade começou durante o reinado da Dinastia Chola nos Séculos 8-13 d. C. Anteriormente, o pano de seda foi considerado como tecido dos Deuses e os tecelões satisfizeram as necessidades religiosas do templo da cidade. Paulatinamente, um tecido de seda torna-se, tanto um tecido dos "mortais", como dos Deuses, e houve um aumento da procura dos têxteis em seda, especialmente, do sari em seda. A particularidade dos tecelões de Kanchipuram reside na sua técnica complicada de tecelagem e nos ricos motivos que são uma expressão da paixão do tecelão. Nosso trabalho de investigação centra-se nas técnicas de tecelagem e no seu produto final - o sari - para destacar a sua singularidade. Neste contexto, quero propor um projecto de documentação dos motivos do sari, para ilustrar um dos principais meios de valorização desta tradição de tecelagem que remonta a vários séculos. RÉSUMÉ: La ville de Kanchipuram, située dans l'état du Tamilnadu, dans le sud de l'Inde, fait souvent écho aux temples hindous mais également au sari en soie. Les tisserands ont migré à l'époque Chola (850- 1279 ap.J.C.) pour répondre aux besoins religieux de la ville car au départ, la soie était un tissu destiné à I 'usage des dieux. Au fur et à mesure, la soie est devenue aussi bien un tissu destiné aux 'mortels' qu'aux dieux. Ces tisserands ont connu par la suite, une forte demande, plus particulierement, pour les saris en soie. La particularité des tisserands de la ville de Kanchipuram réside dans sa technique laborieuse de tissage et dans les motifs élaborés parle billet desquels s'exprime la passion du tisserand dans sa tâche. Le présent mémoire s'attache à la technique de tissage et à son produit final - le sari - pour mettre en valeur son unicité. Dans ce cadre, je propose un projet de documentation des motifs des saris pour illustrer un des vecteurs clés de valorisation de cette tradition de tissage qui remonte à plusieurs siecles. ABSTRACT: The city of Kanchipuram, located in the State of Tamilnadu in southern India, is synonymous with Hindu temples and silk saris. The migration of weaver communities to the city started during the Chola reign (81 131 centuries A.D). Early on, silk was considered the cloth of the gods and these weavers met the needs of the temple city by producing silk textiles for religious use. Gradually, silk became a cloth as much for the 'mortais' as for the gods and demand increased for silk textiles, especially saris. The importance of Kanchipuram weaving lies in its complex techniques and rich motifs as expressions of the. weaver’s passion. This text examines the weaving techniques popularly known as the korvai technique, as well as the saris produced using this technique. ln addition, it attempts to catalogue certain motifs woven into the saris as a first step in promoting and valorizing the cultural richness of an art dating back several centuries.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora Mãe dos Homens (Avis): da história e memória do lugar à sua salvaguarda e valorização

A Igreja de Nossa Senhora Mãe dos Homens constituiu-se como o principal centro de romaria e peregrinação do concelho de Avis. No seu auge, nos inícios do século XX, as festividades ocuparam as primeiras páginas de jornais locais e distritais e abarcavam eventos como torneios de futebol, fanfarras, distribuição de enxovais a crianças carenciadas, entre outros, organizados pela Confraria com o mesmo nome, o que espelha a importância do culto. Porém, a construção da barragem do Maranhão, na década de 50 do século XX, veio isolar o local, aumentando as distâncias do mesmo à vila e aldeias mais próximas, diminuindo consequentemente a afluência de peregrinos e colocando o local em perigo do ponto de vista material e imaterial. Neste sentido, é imperativo que seja feito o seu levantamento histórico, arquitetónico, cultural e patrimonial, e que se lancem as bases para uma proposta de salvaguarda do património, em termos materiais e imateriais; Church of Nossa Senhora Mãe dos Homens (Avis): From the history and memory of the place to its safeguarding and enhancement ABSTRACT: The Church of Nossa Senhora Mãe dos Homens was established as the main pilgrimage center of the municipality of Avis. At its peak, in the early twentieth century, its festivities occupied the front pages of local and districtal newspapers and events such as football tournaments, fanfares, distribution of textiles to children in need, among others, were organized by the Confraternity of the same name, which reflects the importance of this investigation. However, the construction of the Dam of Maranhão, in the 50's of the twentieth century, came to isolate the site, increasing the distances to the nearby villages, thereby decreasing the influx of pilgrims and putting the local in danger from a material and immaterial point of view. Therefore, a historical, architectural and cultural survey of this site is imperative, as well as a proposal to the material and immaterial safeguard of this heritage.

Francisco Pizarro' s banner of arms: an analytical work contributing to latin America's history

The study of textiles is an open area of scientific research, which for its variety of material components and physical chemical diversity of conditions, makes a field of interest for scientific studies in the cultural heritage field. Archaeological/historical textiles offer the possibility to carry out studies on organic materials such as fibers, adhesion elements, dyes, paper, etc., as well as on inorganic compounds for instance metals, alloys, precious stones and other added ornamentation. That variety of composition, allow to use a combination of analytical techniques to solve the questions coming from the object in an archaeometric research. One kind of textile object that provides a valuable cultural information because of its linguistic representation employed by its carrier societies, are the flags/banners/emblems, objects made with a nonverbal communication purpose. As long as depending on the use and/or purpose of each object, varies both the materials/techniques used in its production and its iconography (style, color, emblem, shape), its study gives the possibility to extract information through their materials and manufacturing techniques about a temporal-spatial frame, a particular event or a specific character. The flags/banners have been used since the eleventh century as representative objects of power, hierarchy, social or military organization, or as communicative media. The use of these objects has been spread throughout the world, possibly due to its easy interpretation and/or appropriation by different societies, making it part of their own culture. The flags as symbols of territorial control, using emblems that represent a family, order or army, were introduced to the New World (America) with the arrival of the European conquerors at the end of the fifteenth century. Flags/banners representing the Royal dominion over conquered territories, the Catholic Church and conquistadors’ armies were the first to arrive. One of those flags that have endured over time, that have an invaluable cultural meaning for both American and Iberian societies, is the so-called Francisco Pizarro’s Banner of Arms. It is a textile object with metal threads decoration over a Royal emblem. According to historical sources, this object was used by Francisco Pizarro in 1532 on the conquest process of Peru, after received the permission by King Charles V to on behalf of him, to conquer the lands of the New World today known as Peru. After Pizarro’s control of the Inca territory, it is believed that Pizarro left his banner on top of the Inca’s Sun’s Temple as symbol of his rule. Centuries later, in the America libertarian campaigns, General Sucre, military at charge of the independence army in Peru, reports have found what he considered the Pizarro’s Banner, sending it to Bogotá as a symbol of victory, being kept since that time until today by the National Museum of Colombia. Due to historical discrepancies in the different movements of the so-called Pizarro’s Banner of Arms, its real meaning has been under discussion and because of the passage of time its physical condition has suffer deterioration. That is because its scientific study is now an interesting case study to respond to both historical and conservation questions of it. Through a collaboration with the National Museum of Colombia, a set of 25 samples of so-called Pizarro’s Banner of Arms were collected, covering the various components and areas from the object of study. These samples were subjected to analytical studies for physical and chemical characterization. Microscopic observation, VSEM-EDS analysis, Raman spectroscopy, chromatographic analysis (HPLC-MS, GCMS) and radiocarbon dating were done. Similarly, was sought through a direct in situ physical inspection to the object and through a research into historical sources, adequate information to solve the object’s problems. Results obtained allowed to identify as silk the textile used in the elaboration of the Banner’s fabric, as well as the use of natural dyes for dyeing the fibers used on the emblem: use of cochineal and brazil wood as a source of red, luteolin plant-based for yellow color, indigotine plant-based for blue, and a mixture of yellow and blue dyes for green were identified. Similarly, the use of animal glue in the manufacturing process and the use of rag paper was evident. The metal threads study from the Banner give a confirmation to a silver core wire gilded with a thin gold sheet, being flattened and entwined with silk threads for their use. Finally, using the radiocarbon results, it was possible to postulate with huge accuracy that the Banner date manufacture was between the XV-XVI century and subject to restoration processes with addition of textiles in modern times. Together with, was evident that the state of degradation of the fabric is due to natural degradation in the silk fibers, having that its color has faded and its mechanical properties decreased, leading to loss of rigidity and disappearance of the physical structure. Similarly, it was clear the original colors of the emblem and highlight problems of detachment of paper due to crystallization of the adhesive. In the same way, was found that the metal threads suffer corrosion by sulfur and detachment of its crystals. Finally, combining the analytical results and the historical sources data found from the so-called Francisco Pizarro’s Banner of Arms, allows to postulate that its manufacture process was done in Europe employing precious materials to obtain a long-life object with a deep message for its viewers. Also, the data obtained helps to support the possible idea that the object was employed by Francisco Pizarro in the Peru conquest process. However, by the symbols present in the object, its elaboration date and materials, this object its clearly unique in its kind, and the most important, by its linguistic message, does not represent to Francisco Pizarro or his army, meanwhile, represents the Spanish crown. Therefore, instead to be labeled as Francisco Pizarro’s Banner of Arms, it should be called the Colonial Royal Banner of Charles V in the New World; RESUMEN: El estudio de textiles es un área abierta de investigación científica, la cual por su variedad de componentes materiales y la diversidad de condiciones físico-químicas presentes en estos objetos, lo hace un campo de interés para estudios científicos en el patrimonio cultural. Los textiles arqueológicos/históricos brindan la posibilidad de realizar estudios en materiales orgánicos como fibras, elementos de adhesión, tinturas, papel, etc., e inorgánicos como metales, aleaciones, piedras preciosas y demás materiales decorativos añadidos. Por su variedad de composición, es posible emplear diversas técnicas analíticas para resolver aquellas preguntas propias del objeto en una investigación arqueométrica. Uno de los objetos textiles que brinda gran información cultural debido a su representación lingüística empleada por las sociedades portadoras, son las banderas/estandartes/emblemas. Donde varía dependiendo de su uso y/o propósito, los materiales empleados en su elaboración, al igual que su iconografía (estilo, color, emblema, forma). El estudio de estos objetos construidos con un propósito de comunicación no verbal, da la posibilidad de extraer información a través de sus materiales y técnicas de elaboración sobre un rango temporal-espacial, un evento determinado en la historia o incluso a un personaje en específico. Las banderas han sido empleadas desde el siglo XI como objetos representativos de poder, jerarquía, organización social o militar, o como medio de comunicación. El uso de estos objetos se ha extendido a lo largo del mundo posiblemente debido a su fácil interpretación y/o apropiación por distintas sociedades, haciéndolo parte de su cultura. Las banderas como símbolos de control territorial, empleando símbolos que representan a una familia, orden o armada fueron introducidas a el Nuevo Mundo (América) con la llegada de los conquistadores europeos al final del siglo XV. Las banderas/estandartes que representaban el dominio Real sobre territorios dominados, la iglesia católica y las banderas de ejércitos y/o conquistadores fueron las primeras en llegar al nuevo mundo. Una de aquellas banderas que ha soportado el paso del tiempo, teniendo un gran valor cultural tanto para las sociedades americanas como para las ibéricas, es el denominado Estandarte de armas de Francisco Pizarro. Siendo un objeto textil con decoración en hilos metálicos sobre un emblema Real. De acuerdo a fuentes históricas, este objeto fue usado por Francisco Pizarro en 1532 en el proceso de conquista del Perú, quien recibe por parte del Rey Carlos V el poder para que, en su nombre, Pizarro pueda conquistar las tierras del nuevo mundo hoy conocidas como Perú. Luego del dominio de Pizarro sobre el territorio Inca, se cree que Pizarro dejó su estandarte en la cima del templo Inca del sol como símbolo de su control. Siglos más tarde, en las campañas libertarias de América, el General Sucre, militar encargado de la armada independentista en Perú, reporta haber encontrado lo que él considera como el estandarte de Pizarro, enviándolo a Bogotá como muestra de victoria, siendo custodiada desde ese momento por el Museo Nacional de Colombia hasta la actualidad. Debido a discrepancias históricas, el verdadero significado del llamado estandarte de Pizarro ha sido objeto de discusión y debido del pasar del tiempo su estado de conservación se ha deteriorado. Dejando de este modo, un caso de estudio interesante para que por medio de estudios científicos al objeto se pueda dar respuesta a preguntas tanto históricas como de conservación del mismo. De este modo, por medio de una colaboración con el Museo Nacional de Colombia, se obtuvo un juego de 25 muestras del llamado Estandarte de armas de Francisco Pizarro, abarcando los diferentes componentes y áreas del objeto de estudio. Dichas muestras fueron sometidas a estudios analíticos para su caracterización físico-química. Análisis de observación al microscopio, análisis VSEM-EDS, espectroscopia Raman, análisis cromatográficos (HPLC-MS, GC-MS) y datación por radiocarbono catorce fueron realizados. Del mismo modo, por medio de una inspección física al objeto in situ y una profunda investigación en fuentes históricas del mismo, se buscó la información adecuada para resolver sus problemáticas. Los resultados obtenidos permitieron identificar como seda el textil empleado en la elaboración del estandarte, así como el uso de colorantes naturales para teñir las fibras en el emblema: uso de cochinilla y palo de Brasil como fuente del color rojo, plantas a base de luteolin para el color amarillo, plantas a base de indigotina para el color azul y mezcla de colorantes amarillos y azules para el color verde fueron identificadas. Del mismo modo se evidencio el uso de adhesivos animales y el uso de papel de trapos en el proceso de manufactura. El estudio de los hilos metálicos, permitió evidenciar el uso de alambres con núcleos de plata con un fino recubrimiento de oro en su exterior, siendo aplanados y entrelazados con hilos de seda para su uso. Finalmente usando la datación por radiocarbono, fue posible conocer con alta precisión que el estandarte fue elaborado entre los siglos XV-XVI y sufrió procesos de restauración con añadidura de textiles en tiempos modernos. Junto a lo anterior, es posible postular que el estado de degradación de la tela es debido a degradación natural en las fibras de seda, teniendo así que su color se ha desvanecido y sus propiedades mecánicas disminuidas, conllevando a perdida de rigidez y desaparición de la estructura. Del mismo modo se pudo conocer los colores originales del emblema y evidenciar problemas de desprendimiento del papel debido a cristalización del adhesivo. Asimismo, se comprobó que los hilos metálicos presentan corrosión por azufre y desprendimiento de sus cristales. Finalmente, combinando los resultados analíticos y la información de fuentes históricas encontradas del llamado Estandarte de armas de Francisco Pizarro, se puede postular que su elaboración fue realizada en Europa, usando materiales preciosos para obtener un objeto de larga vida con un profundo mensaje para sus observadores. También, los datos obtenidos ayudan a dar soporte la posible idea de que este objeto fue usado por Francisco Pizarro en el proceso de conquista del Perú. Sin embargo, debido a los símbolos presentes en el objeto, fecha y materiales de elaboración, este objeto es claramente único en su tipo, y lo más importante, por su mensaje lingüístico, este no representa a Francisco Pizarro o su armada, al contrario, representa a la Corona de España. Por ende, en vez de denominarse como Estandarte de armas de Francisco Pizarro, este objeto debería nombrarse como el Estandarte Real de la Colonia de Carlos V en el Nuevo Mundo.