Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

Port-Hamiltonian theory of motion control for marine craft

Port-Hamiltonian Systems (PHS) have a particular form that incorporates explicitly a function of the total energy in the system (energy function) and also other functions that describe structure of the system in terms of energy distribution. For PHS, the product of the input and output variables gives the rate of energy change. This type of systems have the property that under certain conditions on the energy function, the system is passive; and thus, stable. Therefore, if one can design a controller such that the closed-loop system retains - or takes - a PHS form, such closed-loop system will inherit the properties of passivity and stability. In this paper, the classical model of marine craft is put into a PHS form. It is shown that models used for positioning control do not have a PHS form due to a kinematic transformation, but a control design can be done such that the closed-loop system takes a PHS form. It is further shown how integral action can be added and how the PHS-form can be exploited to provide a procedure for control design that ensures passivity and thus stability.

Minimization of bauxite residue neutralization products using nanofiltered seawater

Currently, open circuit Bayer refineries pump seawater directly into their operations to neutralize the caustic fraction of the Bayer residue. The resulting supernatant has a reduced pH and is pumped back to the marine environment. This investigation has assessed modified seawater sources generated from nanofiltration processes to compare their relative capacities to neutralize bauxite residues. An assessment of the chemical stability of the neutralization products, neutralization efficiency, discharge water quality, bauxite residue composition, and associated economic benefits have been considered to determine the most preferable seawater filtration process based on implementation costs, savings to operations and environmental benefits. The mechanism of neutralization for each technology was determined to be predominately due to the formation of Bayer hydrotalcite and calcium carbonate, however variations in neutralization capacity and efficiencies have been observed. The neutralization efficiency of each feed source has been found to be dependent on the concentration of magnesium, aluminium, calcium and carbonate. Nanofiltered seawater with approximately double the amount of magnesium and calcium required half the volume of seawater to achieve the same degree of neutralization. These studies have revealed that multiple neutralization steps occur throughout the process using characterization techniques such as X-ray diffraction (XRD), infrared (IR) spectroscopy and inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectroscopy (ICP-OES).

Secreted products and extracellular matrix from testicular peritubular myoid cells influence androgen-binding protein secretion by Sertoli cells in culture

Metabolic cooperation mediated by secreted factors between Sertoli cells and peritubular myoid cells has been well documented. We have confirmed that factors secreted by peritubular myoid cells modulate androgen-binding protein (ABP) secretion by Sertoli cells and shown further that this can also be achieved with peritubular myoid cell extracellular matrix (ECM). While peritubular myoid cell ECM potentiated the stimulatory effect of dibutyryl cyclic AMP on Sertoli cell ABP secretion, secreted factors did not, suggesting that the two components influence Sertoli cells through distinct mechanisms. We also tested other factors and other cell lines for effects on ABP production by Sertoli cells. The addition of human plasma fibronectin or conditioned medium from the basement membrane-producing Englebreth-Holm- Swarm sarcoma also stimulated ABP secretion by Sertoli cells. Cocultures of epithelial Sertoli cells with the cells of mesenchymal origin, such as testicular peritubular myoid cells, embryonic skin fibroblasts, and bladder smooth muscle cells, significantly stimulated ABP secretion by Sertoli cells, but co-culture with the epithelial-derived Martin-Darby canine kidney cell line had no effect on Sertoli cell-secreted ABP levels. Our data further define the epithelial-mesenchymal cell interaction that exists between Sertoli cells and peritubular myoid cells in the mammalian testis.

Revisiting the adoption of innovative products on Australian road infrastructure projects

Construction product innovation can exert a positive influence on project and industry performance. However, guidance is scarce on product innovation diffusion for road infrastructure, in contrast to the large body of literature on the manufacturing industry. A conceptual framework is proposed to understand these processes. Advice is given to managers based on the framework and a large quantitative survey. The framework focuses on contextual characteristics that influence the decision to adopt new-to-industry product innovation, as part of a diffusion process. Case study data are interpreted within the revised framework to test its value and disaggregate the broad obstacles to innovation. A large quantitative survey was then conducted to rank the relative importance of the obstacles constraining the adoption of innovative products on road construction projects. The three most important obstacles were found to be: (1) overemphasis on up-front project costs during tender stage; (2) disagreement over who carries the risk of new product failure; and (3) adversarial contract relations. The results suggest refinements to the conceptual framework to make it a more powerful tool for categorizing and analysing construction innovation obstacles. Results also suggest well-resourced repeat interactions within complementary procurement and regulatory systems will enhance the project teams’ ability to recognize and address innovation obstacles. Further, improved relationships are expected to decrease the need for an overly conservative approach to product approval and prescriptive specifications.

Demand for refilled reusable products

The conversion of one-way polyethylene terephthalate (PET) bottles into reusable bottles helps reduce environmental burden. Recently, the Ministry of the Environment in Japan began discussing the introduction of reusable bottles. One of the barriers to introducing the new type of bottle is consumer unwillingness to accept refilled reusable bottles. We administered the questionnaires to consumers in a pilot test on reusable PET bottles organized to analyze the demand for these products. To increase the demand for refilled reusable bottles, it is necessary to supply refilled reusable bottles that are acceptable to consumers who are concerned about container flaws and stains.

Greenhouse gas emissions from sub-tropical agricultural soils after addition of organic by-products

As the cost of mineral fertilisers increases globally, organic soil amendments (OAs) from agricultural sources are increasingly being used as substitutes for nitrogen. However, the impact of OAs on the production of greenhouse gases (CO2 and N2O) is not well understood. A 60-day laboratory incubation experiment was conducted to investigate the impacts of applying OAs (equivalent to 296 kg N ha−1 on average) on N2O and CO2 emissions and soil properties of clay and sandy loam soils from sugar cane production. The experiment included 6 treatments, one being an un-amended (UN) control with addition of five OAs being raw mill mud (MM), composted mill mud (CM), high N compost (HC), rice husk biochar (RB), and raw mill mud plus rice husk biochar (MB). These OAs were incubated at 60, 75 and 90% water-filled pore space (WFPS) at 25°C with urea (equivalent to 200 kg N ha−1) added to the soils thirty days after the incubation commenced. Results showed WFPS did not influence CO2 emissions over the 60 days but the magnitude of emissions as a proportion of C applied was RB < CM < MB < HC

Impacts of introduced aquaculture species on markets for native marine aquaculture products : the case of edible oysters in Australia

Economic competition between introduced and native aquaculture species is of interest for industry stakeholders since increased production can affect price formation if both aquaculture species are part of the same market or even substitutes. In this study, we focus on the Australian edible oyster industry, which is dominated by two major species—the native Sydney rock oyster (grown mainly in Queensland and New South Wales) and the non-native Pacific oyster (grown mainly in South Australia and Tasmania). We examine the integration of the Australian oyster market to determine if there exists a single or several markets. Short- and long-run own, cross-price and income flexibilities of demand are estimated for both species using an inverse demand system of equations. The results suggest that the markets for the two species are integrated. We found evidence that the development of the Pacific oyster industry has had an adverse impact on Sydney rock oyster prices. However, our results show that both species are not perfect substitutes. Demand for Sydney rock oysters is relatively inelastic in the long run, yet no long-run relationships can be identified for Pacific oysters, reflecting the developing nature of this sector.

Multiphase porous media model for heat and mass transfer during drying of agricultural products

Modelling of food processing is complex because it involves sophisticated material and transport phenomena. Most of the agricultural products such fruits and vegetables are hygroscopic porous media containing free water, bound water, gas and solid matrix. Considering all phase in modelling is still not developed. In this article, a comprehensive porous media model for drying has been developed considering bound water, free water separately, as well as water vapour and air. Free water transport was considered as diffusion, pressure driven and evaporation. Bound water assumed to be converted to free water due to concentration difference and also can diffuse. Binary diffusion between water vapour and air was considered. Since, the model is fundamental physics based it can be applied to any drying applications and other food processing where heat and mass transfer takes place in porous media with significant evaporation and other phase change.

Facile dearomatisation of porphyrins using palladium-catalysed hydrazination: the 5,15-diiminoporphodimethenes and their redox products

The synthesis, electronic absorption and 1H NMR spectra of a suite of novel porphyrinoids derived from meso-bromoporphyrins by palladium-catalysed aminations using ethyl and tert-butylcarbazates are reported. Instead of the expected carbazate-substituted porphyrins, a facile oxidative dearomatisation of the porphyrin ring occurs in high yield, especially for the nickel(II) complexes, resulting in high yields of 5,15-diiminoporphodimethenes (DIPDs). The analogous zinc(II) and free base DIPDs were also characterised, the former by X-ray crystallography. The oxidation and reduction reactions of DIPDs and their precursor carbazate porphyrins were studied. Density Functional Theory (DFT) was used to calculate the optimised geometries and frontier molecular orbitals of DIPD Ni8c and bis(azocarboxylate) 19c, and Time Dependent DFT calculations allowed the prediction of electronic absorption spectra, whose characteristics corresponded well with those of the observed solution spectra. In the latter case, the calculated low-energy absorptions were unlike those of a typical porphyrin, due to the near-degeneracy of the highest filled frontier orbitals, and the wide energy separation between the unfilled orbitals. This feature was present in the observed spectrum.

Life is too short to RTFM : how users relate to documentation and excess features in consumer products

This paper addresses two common problems that users of various products and interfaces encounter— over-featured interfaces and product documentation. Over-featured interfaces are seen as a problem as they can confuse and over-complicate everyday interactions. Researchers also often claim that users do not read product documentation, although they are often exhorted to ‘RTFM’(read the field manual).We conducted two sets of studies with users which looked at the issues of both manuals and excess features with common domestic and personal products. The quantitative set was a series of questionnaires administered to 170 people over 7 years. The qualitative set consisted of two 6-month longitudinal studies based on diaries and interviews with a total of 15 participants. We found that manuals are not read by the majority of people, and most do not use all the features of the products that they own and use regularly. Men are more likely to do both than women, and younger people are less likely to use manuals than middle-aged and older ones. More educated people are also less likely to read manuals. Over-featuring and being forced to consult manuals also appears to cause negative emotional experiences. Implications of these findings are discussed.

Bioprocess engineering of microalgae to produce a variety of consumer products

Microalgae biotechnology has recently emerged into the lime light owing to numerous consumer products that can be harnessed from microalgae. Product portfolio stretches from straightforward biomass production for food and animal feed to valuable products extracted from microalgal biomass, including triglycerides which can be converted into biodiesel. For most of these applications, the production process is moderately economically viable and the market is developing. Considering the enormous biodiversity of microalgae and recent developments in genetic and metabolic engineering, this group of organisms represents one of the most promising sources for new products and applications. With the development of detailed culture and screening techniques, microalgal biotechnology can meet the high demands of food, energy and pharmaceutical industries. This review article discusses the technology and production platforms for development and creation of different valuable consumer products from microalgal biomass.