Fashion manufacturing in New Zealand : can design contribute to a sustainable fashion Industry?

In the late 1990s New Zealand fashion gained some international recognition for its dark edginess and intellectual connection due to its colonial past (Molloy, 2004). In the years since, this momentum seems to have dissipated as local fashion companies have followed a global trend towards inexpensive off shore manufacturing. The transfer of the making of garments to overseas workers appears to have resulted in a local fashion scene where many garments look the same in style, colour, cut and fit. The excitement of the past, where the majority of fashion designers established their own individuality through the cut and shape of the garments that they produced, may have been inadvertently lost. Consequently a sustainable New Zealand fashion and manufacturing industry, with design integrity, seems further out of reach. The first question posed by this research project is, ‘can the design and manufacture of a fashion garment, bearing in mind certain economic and practical restrictions at its inception, result in the development of a distinctive ‘look’ or ‘handwriting’?’ Second, through development of a collection of prototypes, can potential garments be created to be sustainably manufactured in New Zealand?

A comparison of different methods to determine diffusion length in dye-sensitized solar cells

A new steady state method for determination of the electron diffusion length in dye-sensitized solar cells (DSCs) is described and illustrated with data obtained using cells containing three different types of electrolyte. The method is based on using near-IR absorbance methods to establish pairs of illumination intensity for which the total number of trapped electrons is the same at open circuit (where all electrons are lost by interfacial electron transfer) as at short circuit (where the majority of electrons are collected at the contact). Electron diffusion length values obtained by this method are compared with values derived by intensity modulated methods and by impedance measurements under illumination. The results indicate that the values of electron diffusion length derived from the steady state measurements are consistently lower than the values obtained by the non steady-state methods. For all three electrolytes used in the study, the electron diffusion length was sufficiently high to guarantee electron collection efficiencies greater than 90%. Measurement of the trap distributions by near-IR absorption confirmed earlier observations of much higher electron trap densities for electrolytes containing Li+ ions. It is suggested that the electron trap distributions may not be intrinsic properties of the TiO2 nanoparticles, but may be associated with electron-ion interactions.

A summary view of government cost recovery policies in Australia and New Zealand relating to the supply of public sector information

Researching administrative history is problematical. A trail of authoritative documents is often hard to find; and useful summaries can be difficult to organise, especially if source material is in paper formats in geographically dispersed locations. In the absence of documents, the reasons for particular decisions and the rationale underpinning particular policies can be confounded as key personnel advance in their professions and retire. The rationale for past decisions may be lost for practical purposes; and if an organisation’s memory of events is diminished, its learning through experience is also diminished. Publishing this document tries to avoid unnecessary duplication of effort by other researchers that need to venture into how policies of charging for public sector information have been justified. The author compiled this work within a somewhat limited time period and the work does not pretend to be a complete or comprehensive analysis of the issues.----- A significant part of the role of government is to provide a framework of legally-enforceable rights and obligations that can support individuals and non-government organisations in their lawful activities. Accordingly, claims that governments should be more ‘business-like’ need careful scrutiny. A significant supply of goods and services occurs as non-market activity where neither benefits nor costs are quantified within conventional accounting systems or in terms of money. Where a government decides to provide information as a service; and information from land registries is archetypical, the transactions occur as a political decision made under a direct or a clearly delegated authority of a parliament with the requisite constitutional powers. This is not a market transaction and the language of the market confuses attempts to describe a number of aspects of how governments allocate resources.----- Cost recovery can be construed as an aspect of taxation that is a sole prerogative of a parliament. The issues are fundamental to political constitutions; but they become more complicated where states cede some taxing powers to a central government as part of a federal system. Nor should the absence of markets be construed necessarily as ‘market failure’ or even ‘government failure’. The absence is often attributable to particular technical, economic and political constraints that preclude the operation of markets. Arguably, greater care is needed in distinguishing between the polity and markets in raising revenues and allocating resources; and that needs to start by removing unhelpful references to ‘business’ in the context of government decision-making.

African Indigeneity

The current argument is that there exist no indigenous people in Africa because all Africans are indigenous. The obverse considers those Africans who have not been touched by colonialism and lost their traditional cultures commensurate with attachments to the lands or a distinguishable traditional lifestyle to be indigenous. This paper argues in favor of the latter. For example, modernism, materialism, ex-colonial socio-cultural impacts (as in the remnants of European legal structures, and cultural scarring), globalization, and technology are international social homogenizers. People who live in this telos and do not participate in a distinct traditional culture that has been attached to the land for centuries are not indigenous. It is argued that this cultural divergence between modern and traditional is the major identifying point to settle the indigenous-non indigenous African debate. Finally, the paper looks at inclusive development, how this helps to distinguish African indigeneity, and provides a new political analysis model for quantifying inclusivity.

Trace, a novel and exegesis

Trace concerns writing-walking and walking-writing. The multiple voices of both novel and exegesis assemble a rhizomic map of a walk and create a never-entirely-certain wandering look upon a woman walking, rather than a single cocksure gaze. Trace explores the aesthetics of Western walking literature and the various nostalgias inherent in that tradition. Trace wonders how lost a character can become on a walk and whether a walk is itself a kind of becoming. In the undefined liminal space where the urban bleeds into the rural, Trace challenges the singular perspective of the dominating gaze with a wandering look, which aims to make an original contribution to both the walk in literature and to exegetical form.

The light of Gairdner

The Light of Gairdner is a key work of the author's exhibition Lightsite, which toured Western Australian galleries from February 2006 to November 2007. It is a five-minute-long exposure photographic image captured inside a purpose-built, room-sized pinhole camera which is demountable and does not have a floor. The Light of Gairdner depicts two brothers Allan and Harvey Lynch during their barley harvest. Allan is standing outside the pinhole camera-room in the barley field. The light from this exterior landscape is 'projected' inside the camera-room and illuminates the interior scene which includes that part of the barley field upon which the floorless room is erected, along with Harvey who is standing inside. The image evokes the temporality of light. Here, light itself is portrayed as the primary medium through which we both perceive and describe landscape. It is through the agency of light that we construct our connectivity to landscape. The exhibition/catalogue statement. "Harvey and Allan Lynch lost their father Frank, in a crop dusting crash five years ago. They now manage their dad's 6000 acre farm and are photographed here at the time of their barley harvest."

The light of Gairdner 2

The Light of Gairdner 2 is a key work of the author's exhibition Lightsite, which toured Western Australian galleries from February 2006 to November 2007. It is a five-minute-long exposure photographic image captured inside a purpose-built, room-sized pinhole camera which is demountable and does not have a floor. The Light of Gairdner 2 depicts two brothers Allan and Harvey Lynch during their barley harvest. Allan is standing outside the pinhole camera-room in the barley field with their new 'CASE' harvester. The light from this exterior landscape is 'projected' inside the camera-room and illuminates the interior scene which includes that part of the barley field upon which the floorless room is erected, along with Harvey who is standing inside. The image evokes the temporality of light. Here, light itself is portrayed as the primary medium through which we both perceive and describe landscape. In this way it is through the agency of light that we construct our connectivity to landscape. The exhibition/catalogue statement. "Harvey and Allan Lynch lost their father Frank, in a crop dusting crash five years ago. They now manage their dad's 6000 acre farm and are photographed here at the time of their barley harvest. The Light of Gairdner 2 features their new 'CASE' harvester, and in the distance, the grain silos of Gairdner."

Electro-spinning of pure collagen nano-fibres – just an expensive way to make gelatin?

Scaffolds manufactured from biological materials promise better clinical functionality, providing that characteristic features are preserved. Collagen, a prominent biopolymer, is used extensively for tissue engineering applications, because its signature biological and physico-chemical properties are retained in vitro preparations. We show here for the first time that the very properties that have established collagen as the leading natural biomaterial are lost when it is electro-spun into nano-fibres out of fluoroalcohols such as 1,1,1,3,3,3-hexafluoro-2-propanol or 2,2,2-trifluoroethanol. We further identify the use of fluoroalcohols as the major culprit in the process. The resultant nano-scaffolds lack the unique ultra-structural axial periodicity that confirms quarter-staggered supramolecular assemblies and the capacity to generate second harmonic signals, representing the typical crystalline triple-helical structure. They were also characterised by low denaturation temperatures, similar to those obtained from gelatin preparations ( p > 0.05). Likewise, circular dichroism spectra revealed extensive denaturation of the electro-spun collagen. Using pepsin digestion in combination with quantitative SDS-PAGE, we corroborate great losses of up to 99% of triple-helical collagen. In conclusion, electro-spinning of collagen out of fluoroalcohols effectively denatures this biopolymer, and thus appears to defeat its purpose, namely to create biomimetic scaffolds emulating the collagen structure and function of the extracellular matrix.

An economic case for systematic student monitoring and intervention in the first year in higher education

Previous work has established the effectiveness of systematically monitoring first year higher education students and intervening with those identified as at-risk of attrition. This nuts-and-bolts paper establishes an economic case for a systematic monitoring and intervention program, identifying the visible costs and benefits of such a program at a major Australian university. The benefit of such a program is measured in savings to the institution which would otherwise be lost revenue, in the form of retained equivalent full-time student load (EFTSL). The session will present an economic model based on a number of assumptions. These assumptions are explored along with the applicability of the model to other institutions.

Establishing indigeneity in African pluralities using PRO169 parameters and a case study for measuring their inclusivity

The concept of the indigenous person or group in Africa is a contentious one. The current argument is that there exist no indigenous people in Africa because all Africans are indigenous. The obverse considers those Africans who have not been touched by colonialism and lost their traditional cultures commensurate with attachments to the lands or a distinguishable traditional lifestyle to be indigenous. This paper argues in favor of the latter. People who live in the global telos and do not participate in a distinct traditional culture that has been attached to the land for centuries are not indigenous. It is argued that this cultural divergence between modern and traditional is the major identifying point to settle the indigenous-non indigenous African debate. Finally, the paper looks at inclusive development and provides a new political analysis model for quantifying inclusivity so as to measure the inclusivity of indigenous peoples.

TCP-DR an effective protocol for infrastructure based wireless networks

TCP is a dominant protocol for consistent communication over the internet. It provides flow, congestion and error control mechanisms while using wired reliable networks. Its congestion control mechanism is not suitable for wireless links where data corruption and its lost rate are higher. The physical links are transparent from TCP that takes packet losses due to congestion only and initiates congestion handling mechanisms by reducing transmission speed. This results in wasting already limited available bandwidth on the wireless links. Therefore, there is no use to carry out research on increasing bandwidth of the wireless links until the available bandwidth is not optimally utilized. This paper proposed a hybrid scheme called TCP Detection and Recovery (TCP-DR) to distinguish congestion, corruption and mobility related losses and then instructs the data sending host to take appropriate action. Therefore, the link utilization is optimal while losses are either due to high bit error rate or mobility.

Thermogravimetric analysis of selected coal-bearing strata kaolinite

Two kinds of coal-bearing kaolinite from China were analysed by X-ray diffraction (XRD), Thermogravimetric analysis-mass spectrometry (TG-MS), infrared emission spectroscopy. Thermal decomposition occurs in a series of steps attributed to (a) desorption of water at 68 °C for Datong coal bearing strata kaolinite and 56 °C for Xiaoxian with mass losses of 0.36 % and 0.51 % (b) decarbonization at 456 °C for Datong coal bearing strata kaolinite and 431 °C for Xiaoxian kaolinite, (c) dehydroxylation takes place in two steps at 589 and 633 °C for Datong coal bearing strata kaolinite and at 507 °C and 579 °C for Xiaoxian kaolinite. This mineral were further characterised by infrared emission spectroscopy (IES). Well defined hydroxyl stretching bands at around 3695, 3679, 3652 and 3625 cm-1 are observed. At 650 °C all intensity in these bands is lost in harmony with the thermal analysis results. Characteristic functional groups from coal are observed at 1918, 1724 and 1459 cm-1. The intensity of these bands decrease by thermal treatment and is lost by 700 °C.

Withholding and withdrawing life-sustaining medical treatment

• At common law, a competent adult can refuse life-sustaining medical treatment, either contemporaneously or through an advance directive which will operate at a later time when the adult’s capacity is lost. • Legislation in most Australian jurisdictions also provides for a competent adult to complete an advance directive that refuses life-sustaining medical treatment. • At common law, a court exercising its parens patriae jurisdiction can consent to, or authorise, the withdrawal or withholding of life-sustaining medical treatment from an adult or child who lacks capacity if that is in the best interests of the person. A court may also declare that the withholding or withdrawal of treatment is lawful. • Guardianship legislation in most jurisdictions allows a substitute decision-maker, in an appropriate case, to refuse life-sustaining medical treatment for an adult who lacks capacity. • In terms of children, a parent may refuse life-sustaining medical treatment for his or her child if it is in the child’s best interests. • While a refusal of life-sustaining medical treatment by a competent child may be valid, this decision can be overturned by a court. • At common law and generally under guardianship statutes, demand for futile treatment need not be complied with by doctors.

The Green Falcon - Solar Powered Unmanned Aerial Vehicle

In recent months the extremes of Australia’s weather have affected, killed a good number of people and millions of dollars lost. Contrary to a manned aircraft or a helicopter; which have restricted air time, a UAS or a group of UAS could provide 24 hours coverage of the disaster area and be instrumented with infrared cameras to locate distressed people and relay information to emergency services. The solar powered UAV is capable of carrying a 0.25Kg payload consuming 0.5 watt and fly continuously for at low altitude for 24 hrs ,collect the data and create a special distribution . This system, named Green Falcon, is fully autonomous in navigation and power generation, equipped with solar cells covering its wing, it retrieves energy from the sun in order to supply power to the propulsion system and the control electronics, and charge the battery with the surplus of energy. During the night, the only energy available comes from the battery, which discharges slowly until the next morning when a new cycle starts. The prototype airplane was exhibited at the Melbourne Museum form Nov09 to Feb 2010.

Virtual diasporas and the dilemma of multiple belongings in cyberspace

One of the most celebrated qualities of the Internet is its enabling of simultaneity and multiplicity. By allowing users to open as many windows into the world as they (and their computers) can withstand, the Internet is understood to have brought places and cultures together on a scale and in a manner unprecedented. Yet, while the Internet has enabled many to reconnect with cultures and places long distanced and/or lost, it has also led to the belief that these reconnections are established with little correspondent cost to existent ties of belonging. In this paper, I focus on the dilemma multiple belongings engender for the ties of national belonging and question the sanguinity of multiple belongings as practised online. In particular, I use Lefebvre's notion of lived space to unpack the problems and contradictions of what has been called 'Greater China' for the ethnic Chinese minority in nations like Malaysia, Singapore and Australia.