Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : identifying a fresh perspective about their role in the world order of fashion

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as “Paris of the East”. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, “Made in China” is being replaced by “Created in China” drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability. Preliminary findings indicate that some fashion designers have adopted an as-yet unexplored strategy of business and brand development with a distinct Chinese aesthetic at its core, in contrast to the clichéd cultural iconography often viewed by Western viewers as representative of Chinese creativity.

Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : a new perspective about their role in the construction of a fashion city

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as ‘Paris of the East’. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, ‘Made in China’ is being replaced by ‘Created in China’ drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability. Preliminary findings indicate that some fashion designers have adopted an as-yet unexplored strategy of business and brand development with a distinct Chinese aesthetic at its core, in contrast to the clichéd cultural iconography often viewed by Western viewers as representative of Chinese creativity. The development of this aesthetic is similar to the development of the Scandinavian design ethos that emerged during the 1950s.

The Ghrelin axis : does it have an appetite for cancer progression?

Ghrelin, the endogenous ligand for the GH secretagogue receptor (GHSR), is a peptide hormone with diverse physiological roles. Ghrelin regulates GH release, appetite and feeding, gut motility, and energy balance and also has roles in the cardiovascular, immune, and reproductive systems. Ghrelin and the GHSR are expressed in a wide range of normal and tumor tissues, and a fluorescein-labeled, truncated form of ghrelin is showing promise as a biomarker for prostate cancer. Plasma ghrelin levels are generally inversely related to body mass index and are unlikely to be useful as a biomarker for cancer, but may be useful as a marker for cancer cachexia. Some single nucleotide polymorphisms in the ghrelin and GHSR genes have shown associations with cancer risk; however, larger studies are required. Ghrelin regulates processes associated with cancer, including cell proliferation, apoptosis, cell migration, cell invasion, inflammation, and angiogenesis; however, the role of ghrelin in cancer is currently unclear. Ghrelin has predominantly antiinflammatory effects and may play a role in protecting against cancer-related inflammation. Ghrelin and its analogs show promise as treatments for cancer-related cachexia. Further studies using in vivo models are required to determine whether ghrelin has a role in cancer progression.

Effect of bone morphogenetic protein-4 (BMP-4) on the expression of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc in human periodontal ligament cells during long-term culture

Recent studies demonstrated endogenous expression level of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc is correlated with the pluripotency and successful induction of induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs). Periondontal ligament cells (PDLCs)have multi-lineage diferentiation capability and ability to maintain undifferentiated stage, which makes PDLCs a suitable cell source for tissue repair and regeneration. To elucidate the effect of in vitro culture condition on the stemness potential of PDLCs, we explored the cell growth, proliferation, cell cycle, and the expression of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc in PDLCs from passage 1 to 7 with or without the addition of recombinant human BMP4(rhBMP4). Our results revealed that BMP-4 promoted cell growth and proliferation, arrested PDLCs in S phase of cell cycle and upregulated PI value. It was revealed that without the addition of rhBMP4, the expression of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc in PDLCs only maintained nucleus location until passage 3, then lost nucleus location subsequently. The mRNA expression in PDLCs further confirmed that the level of Sox2 and Oct-4 peaked at passage 3, then decreased afterwards, whereas c-Myc maintained consistently upregulation along passages. after the treatment with rhBMP4, the expression of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc in PDLCs maintained nucleus location even at passage 7 and the mRNA expression of Sox2 and Oct-4 significantly upregulated at passage 5 and 7. These results demonstrated that addition of rhBMP-4 in the culture media could improve the current culture condition for PDLCs to maintain in an undifferentiated stage.

Service condition of railroad corridors around the insulated rail joints

Railroad corridors contain large number of Insulated Rail Joints (IRJs) that act as safety critical elements in the circuitries of the signaling and broken rail identification systems. IRJs are regarded as sources of excitation for the passage of loaded wheels leading to high impact forces; these forces in turn cause dips, cross levels and twists to the railroad geometry in close proximity to the sections containing the IRJs in addition to the local damages to the railhead of the IRJs. Therefore, a systematic monitoring of the IRJs in railroad is prudent to mitigate potential risk of their sudden failure (e.g., broken tie plates) under the traffic. This paper presents a simple method of periodic recording of images using time-lapse photography and total station surveying measurements to understand the ongoing deterioration of the IRJs and their surroundings. Over a 500 day period, data were collected to examine the trends in narrowing of the joint gap due to plastic deformation the railhead edges and the dips, cross levels and twists caused to the railroad geometry due to the settlement of ties (sleepers) around the IRJs. The results reflect that the average progressive settlement beneath the IRJs is larger than that under the continuously welded rail, which leads to excessive deviation of railroad profile, cross levels and twists.

Bewegungsförderung : evidenzen und perspektiven

Angesichts der gut dokumentierten gesundheitlichen Konsequenzen körperlicher Inaktivität besteht ein wachsendes Interesse an der Förderung regelmäßiger körperlicher Aktivität und an entsprechenden Interventionen. Die wissenschaftliche Evidenz hinsichtlich der Effektivität von Interventionen zur Änderung des körperlichen Aktivitätsverhaltens Erwachsener lässt sich anhand der Ergebnisse randomisierter Kontrolluntersuchungen einschätzen. Interventionsansätze zur Förderung der körperlichen Aktivität lassen sich dabei voneinander unterschieden in: • Individuumsbezogene Interventionen • Bevölkerungsbezogene Interventionen Die nachfolgende Zusammenfassung bietet einen ersten Überblick über die Evidenzlage zu beiden Ansätzen. Vorliegende Forschungsergebnisse werden miteinander verglichen und die forschungsbezogenen sowie praktischen Stärken, aber auch Schwächen der entsprechenden Interventionsansätze werden aufgezeigt.

Interpersonal coupling in rowing : the mediating role of the environment

Evidence currently supports the view that intentional interpersonal coordination (IIC) is a self-organizing phenomenon facilitated by visual perception of co-actors in a coordinative coupling (Schmidt, Richardson, Arsenault, & Galantucci, 2007). The present study examines how apparent IIC is achieved in situations where visual information is limited for co-actors in a rowing boat. In paired rowing boats only one of the actors, [bow seat] gets to see the actions of the other [stroke seat]. Thus IIC appears to be facilitated despite the lack of important visual information for the control of the dyad. Adopting a mimetic approach to expert coordination, the present study qualitatively examined the experiences of expert performers (N=9) and coaches (N=4) with respect to how IIC was achieved in paired rowing boats. Themes were explored using inductive content analysis, which led to layered model of control. Rowers and coaches reported the use of multiple perceptual sources in order to achieve IIC. As expected(Kelso, 1995; Schmidt & O’Brien, 1997; Turvey, 1990), rowers in the bow of a pair boat make use of visual information provided by the partner in front of them [stroke]. However, this perceptual information is subordinate to perception Motor Learning and Control S111 of the relationship between the boat hull and water passing beside it. Stroke seat, in the absence of visual information about his/her partner, achieves coordination by picking up information about the lifting or looming of the boat’s stern along with water passage past the hull. In this case it appears that apparent or desired IIC is supported by the perception of extra-personal variables, in this case boat behavior; as this perceptual information source is used by both actors. To conclude, co-actors in two person rowing boats use multiple sources of perceptual information for apparent IIC that changes according to task constraints. Where visual information is restricted IIC is facilitated via extra-personal perceptual information and apparent IIC switches to intentional extra-personal coordination.

Ureaplasma parvum serovar 3 multiple banded antigen size variation after chronic intra-amniotic infection/colonization

Ureaplasma species are the microorganisms most frequently associated with adverse pregnancy outcomes. The multiple banded antigen (MBA), a surface-exposed lipoprotein, is a key virulence factor of ureaplasmas. The MBA demonstrates size variation, which we have shown previously to be correlated with the severity of chorioamnion inflammation. We aimed to investigate U. parvum serovar 3 pathogenesis in vivo, using a sheep model, by investigating: MBA variation after long term (chronic) and short term (acute) durations of in utero ureaplasma infections, and the severity of chorioamnionitis and inflammation in other fetal tissues. Inocula of 2x107 colony-forming-units (CFU) of U. parvum serovar 3 (Up) or media controls (C) were injected intra-amniotically into pregnant ewes at one of three time points: day 55 (69d Up, n=8; C69, n=4); day 117 (7d Up, n=8; C7, n=2); and day 121 (3d Up, n=8; C3, n=2) of gestation (term=145-150d). At day 124, preterm fetuses were delivered surgically. Samples of chorioamnion, fetal lung, and umbilical cord were: (i) snap frozen for subsequent ureaplasma culture, and (ii) fixed, embedded, sectioned and stained by haematoxylin and eosin stain for histological analysis. Selected fetal lung clinical ureaplasma isolates were cloned and filtered to obtain cultures from a single CFU. Passage 1 and clone 2 ureaplasma cultures were tested by western blot to demonstrate MBA variation. In acute durations of ureaplasma infection no MBA variants (3d Up) or very few MBA variants (7d Up) were present when compared to the original inoculum. However, numerous MBA size variants were generated in vivo (alike within contiguous tissues, amniotic fluid and fetal lung, but different variants were present within chorioamnion), during chronic, 69d exposure to ureaplasma infection. For the first time we have shown that the degree of ureaplasma MBA variation in vivo increased with the duration of gestation.

Image-based flow visualisation (IBFV) to enhance interpretation of complex flow patterns within a shallow tidal barrier estuary

We applied a texture-based flow visualisation technique to a numerical hydrodynamic model of the Pumicestone Passage in southeast Queensland, Australia. The quality of the visualisations using our flow visualisation tool, are compared with animations generated using more traditional drogue release plot and velocity contour and vector techniques. The texture-based method is found to be far more effective in visualising advective flow within the model domain. In some instances, it also makes it easier for the researcher to identify specific hydrodynamic features within the complex flow regimes of this shallow tidal barrier estuary as compared with the direct and geometric based methods.

Asymmetrically decorated, doped porous graphene as an effective membrane for hydrogen isotope separation

We propose a new route to hydrogen isotope separation which exploits the quantum sieving effect in the context of transmission through asymmetrically decorated, doped porous graphenes. Selectivities of D2 over H2 as well as rate constants are calculated based on ab initio interaction potentials for passage through pure and nitrogen functionalized porous graphene. One-sided dressing of the membrane with metal provides the critical asymmetry needed for an energetically favorable pathway.

Editorial: The Human Fertilisation and Embryology Act 2008

This editorial first describes the workshop out of which the present special issue arose. The editors then identify the need for a multidisciplinary collection examining the Human Fertilisation and Embryology Act 2008 from both legal and political perspectives, including the consultation process, campaigning and parliamentary debates leading to its passage, and the concluded legislation and its effects. The editorial provides an overview of the legislative reform process, key legislative changes, and the various contributions to the special issue. Cross-cutting themes include the value of a qualitative, discourse-based approach to research in this area; the need to understand the 2008 Act in historical context; unforeseen practical implications of the legislative provisions; and silences and missed opportunities in the legislation. Finally, a postscript covers the changing landscape of hybrid embryo research since the passage of the Act, and the uncertain future of the Human Fertilisation and Embryology Authority at the time of writing.

Development of optimal designs of insulated rail joints

Proper functioning of Insulated Rail Joints (IRJs) is essential for the safe operation of the railway signalling systems and broken rail identification circuitries. The Conventional IRJ (CIRJ) resembles structural butt joints consisting of two pieces of rails connected together through two joint bars on either side of their web and the assembly is held together through pre-tensioned bolts. As the IRJs should maintain electrical insulation between the two rails, a gap between the rail ends must be retained at all times and all metal contacting surfaces should be electrically isolated from each other using non-conductive material. At the gap, the rail ends lose longitudinal continuity and hence the vertical sections of the rail ends are often severely damaged, especially at the railhead, due to the passage of wheels compared to other continuously welded rail sections. Fundamentally, the reason for the severe damage can be related to the singularities of the wheel-rail contact pressure and the railhead stress. No new generation designs that have emerged in the market to date have focussed on this fundamental; they only have provided attention to either the higher strength materials or the thickness of the sections of various components of the IRJs. In this thesis a novel method of shape optimisation of the railhead is developed to eliminate the pressure and stress singularities through changes to the original sharp corner shaped railhead into an arc profile in the longitudinal direction. The optimal shape of the longitudinal railhead profile has been determined using three nongradient methods in search of accuracy and efficiency: (1) Grid Search Method; (2) Genetic Algorithm Method and (3) Hybrid Genetic Algorithm Method. All these methods have been coupled with a parametric finite element formulation for the evaluation of the objective function for each iteration or generation depending on the search algorithm employed. The optimal shape derived from these optimisation methods is termed as Stress Minimised Railhead (SMRH) in this thesis. This optimal SMRH design has exhibited significantly reduced stress concentration that remains well below the yield strength of the head hardened rail steels and has shifted the stress concentration location away from the critical zone of the railhead end. The reduction in the magnitude and the relocation of the stress concentration in the SMRH design has been validated through a full scale wheel – railhead interaction test rig; Railhead strains under the loaded wheels have been recorded using a non-contact digital image correlation method. Experimental study has confirmed the accuracy of the numerical predications. Although the SMRH shaped IRJs eliminate stress singularities, they can still fail due to joint bar or bolt hole cracking; therefore, another conceptual design, termed as Embedded IRJ (EIRJ) in this thesis, with no joint bars and pre-tensioned bolts has been developed using a multi-objective optimisation formulation based on the coupled genetic algorithm – parametric finite element method. To achieve the required structural stiffness for the safe passage of the loaded wheels, the rails were embedded into the concrete of the post tensioned sleepers; the optimal solutions for the design of the EIRJ is shown to simplify the design through the elimination of the complex interactions and failure modes of the various structural components of the CIRJ. The practical applicability of the optimal shapes SMRH and EIRJ is demonstrated through two illustrative examples, termed as improved designs (IMD1 & IMD2) in this thesis; IMD1 is a combination of the CIRJ and the SMRH designs, whilst IMD2 is a combination of the EIRJ and SMRH designs. These two improved designs have been simulated for two key operating (speed and wagon load) and design (wheel diameter) parameters that affect the wheel-rail contact; the effect of these parameters has been found to be negligible to the performance of the two improved designs and the improved designs are in turn found far superior to the current designs of the CIRJs in terms of stress singularities and deformation under the passage of the loaded wheels. Therefore, these improved designs are expected to provide longer service life in relation to the CIRJs.

Fractional models for the migration of biological cells in complex spatial domains

Travelling wave phenomena are observed in many biological applications. Mathematical theory of standard reaction-diffusion problems shows that simple partial differential equations exhibit travelling wave solutions with constant wavespeed and such models are used to describe, for example, waves of chemical concentrations, electrical signals, cell migration, waves of epidemics and population dynamics. However, as in the study of cell motion in complex spatial geometries, experimental data are often not consistent with constant wavespeed. Non-local spatial models have successfully been used to model anomalous diffusion and spatial heterogeneity in different physical contexts. In this paper, we develop a fractional model based on the Fisher-Kolmogoroff equation and analyse it for its wavespeed properties, attempting to relate the numerical results obtained from our simulations to experimental data describing enteric neural crest-derived cells migrating along the intact gut of mouse embryos. The model proposed essentially combines fractional and standard diffusion in different regions of the spatial domain and qualitatively reproduces the behaviour of neural crest-derived cells observed in the caecum and the hindgut of mouse embryos during in vivo experiments.

Fundamental Tax Legislation 2013

Fundamental Tax Legislation 2013 contains the essential provisions from the primary legislation that affects Australia’s taxation system. Updated and expanded for 2013, this volume is an indispensable reference for undergraduate and postgraduate students of taxation. New in 2013 is a revised Year in Review section, which summarises the legislative developments in taxation over the previous 12 months, a listing of the passage of tax-related legislation during the last year and the inclusion of reference statistics (such as CPI quarterly figures and individual tax rates for residents and non-residents). Also, new for 2013 is a Tax Rates and Tables section which contains an accessible summary of the main tax rates and tables that students will need to refer to for their tax studies.

Development of an ultra-thin fibroin membrane for RPE cell transplantation

Purpose: One of the challenges associated with cell-based therapies for repairing the retina is the development of suitable materials on which to grow and transplant retinal cells. Using the ARPE-19 cell line, we have previously demonstrated the feasibility of growing RPE-derived cells on membranes prepared from the silk protein fibroin. The present study was aimed at developing a porous, ultra-thin fibroin membrane that might better support development of apical-basal polarity in culture, and to extend this work to primary cultures of human RPE cells. Methods: Ultra-thin fibroin membranes were prepared using a highly polished casting table coated with Topas® (a cyclic olefin copolymer) and a 1:0.03 aqueous solution of fibroin and PEO (Mv 900 000 g/mol). Following drying, the membranes were water annealed to make them water-stable, washed in water to remove PEO, sterilised by treatment with 95% ethanol, and washed extensively in saline. Primary cultures containing human RPE cells were established from donor posterior eye cups and maintained in DMEM/F12 medium supplemented with 10% fetal bovine serum and antibiotics. First passage cultures were seeded onto fibroin membranes pre-coated with vitronectin and grown for 6 weeks in medium supplemented with 1% serum. Comparative cultures were established on porous 1.0 µm pore PET membrane (Millipore) and using ARPE-19 cells. Results: The fibroin membranes displayed an average thickness of 3 µm and contained numerous dimples/pore-like structures of up to 3-5 µm in diameter. The primary cultures predominantly contained pigmented epithelial cells, but mesenchymal cells (presumed fibroblasts) were also often present. Passaged cultures appeared to attach equally well to either fibroin or PET membranes. Over time cells on either material adopted a more cobblestoned morphology. Conclusions: Progress has been made towards developing a porous ultra-thin fibroin membrane that supports cultivation of RPE cells. Further studies are required to determine the degree of membrane permeability and RPE polarity.