Re-framing fashion : from original and copy to adaptation

Partington notes that clothing produced by individual consumers through adaptation of patterns is contextualised as a watered down version of original couture. In its most reductive form, this notion characterises fashion as commercial and exploitative. Descriptors such as appropriation, imitation, copy and so forth have restricted the opportunity to understand fashion as a major global cultural form and institution. Therefore exploring and understanding the concept of adaptation will shift the attention from a superficial assessment of original versus imitation or copy to adaptation as a practice that provides a better framework for the understanding of designers’ and couturiers’ innovative practices and creativity, describing also the active engagement of consumers with fashion at the micro level. Adaptation can also provide a way to understand different historical shifts in the fashion system, from individual creative agency with home dressmaking and re-making to the explosion of the mass market and the consequent abandonment of such practices. Home dressmaking has been replaced by fashion remix of mass produced garments, a practice that thrives in our environment of globalised fast fashion. Thus this chapter suggests the need for a contextual requalification of concepts such as original, copy, imitation and copyright, and argues that these categories have been played against each other, but they are in fact interdependent. Today, big labels and conglomerates try to control knowledge and innovation through copyright, but, fashion escapes copyright because, in fashion, creativity is contextual. The institutionalisation of couture from 1868 served as a way to control knowledge about production processes in fashion; on the other hand, adaptation practices, often subversive, have been fundamental to the democratisation of fashion.

Water absorption, permeability, and resistance to chloride-ion penetration of lightweight aggregate concrete

This paper presents an experimental study to evaluate effect of cumulative lightweight aggregate (LWA) content (including lightweight sand) in concrete [water/cement ratio (w/c) = 0.38] on its water absorption, water permeability, and resistance to chloride-ion penetration. Rapid chloride penetrability test (ASTM C 1202), rapid migration test (NT Build 492), and salt ponding test (AASHTO T 259) were conducted to evaluate the concrete resistance to chloride-ion penetration. The results were compared with those of a cement paste and a control normal weight aggregate concrete (NWAC) with the same w/c and a NWAC (w/c = 0.54) with 28-day compressive strength similar to some of the lightweight aggregate concrete (LWAC). Results indicate that although the total charge passed, migration coefficient, and diffusion coefficient of the LWAC were not significantly different from those of NWAC with the same w/c of 0.38, resistance of the LWAC to chloride penetration decreased with increase in the cumulative LWA content in the concretes. The water penetration depth under pressure and water sorptivity showed, in general, similar trends. The LWAC with only coarse LWA had similar water sorptivity, water permeability coefficient, and resistance to chloride-ion penetration compared to NWAC with similar w/c. The LWAC had lower water sorptivity, water permeability and higher resistance to chloride-ion penetration than the NWAC with similar 28-day strength but higher w/c. Both the NWAC and LWAC had lower sorptivity and higher resistance to chloride-ion penetration than the cement paste with similar w/c.

‘Connect and create’ : young people, YouTube and graffiti communities

Dominant discourses around young people and social networking in the mass media are littered with negative connotations and moral panics. While some scholars challenge this negativity, their focus has predominantly been upon the formation of friendships, the construction of identity and the presentation of the self online. We argue that as well as engaging in such areas, young people are also appropriating social networking sites, such as YouTube, as spaces in which they can engage in what Jean Burgess terms, ‘Vernacular Creativity’ – a way of describing and surfacing creative practices that emerge from non-elite, specific everyday contexts. Using case study material we consider the processes of Vernacular Creativity as engaged with by young people in relation to doing graffiti with YouTube. Through this, and given that graffiti is a cultural practise traditionally associated with physical space, we also consider points of continuity and discontinuity in relation to Vernacular Creativity mediated with YouTube and the significance of such things in enabling young people to connect and create with like-minded others.

Pharmacokinetics of isofraxidin in rat plasma after oral administration of the extract of acanthopanax senticosus using HPLC with solid phase extraction method

High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with solid phase extraction method was developed for determination of isofraxidin in rat plasma after oral administration of Acanthopanax senticosus extract (ASE), and pharmacokinetic parameters of isofraxidin either in ASE or pure compound were measured. The HPLC analysis was performed on a Dikma Diamonsil RP(18) column (4.6 mm x 150 mm, 5 microm) with the isocratic elution of solvent A (acetonitrile) and solvent B (0.1% aqueous phosphoric acid, v/v) (A : B = 22 : 78) and the detection wavelength was set at 343 nm. The calibration curve was linear over the range of 0.156-15.625 microg/ml. The limit of detection was 60 ng/ml. The intra-day precision was 5.8%, and the inter-day precision was 6.0%. The recovery was 87.30+/-1.73%. When the dosage of ASE is equal to pure compound caculated by the amount of isofraxidin, it has been found to have two maximum concentrations in plasma while the pure compound only showed one peak in the plasma concentration-time curve. The determined content of isofraxidin in plasma after oral administration of ASE is the total contents of free isofraxidin and its precursors in ASE in vitro. The pharmacokinetic characteristics of ASE showed the priority of the extract and the properities of traditional Chinese medicine.

Simultaneous determination of 6,7-dimethylesculetin and geniposide in rat plasma and its application to pharmacokinetic studies of Yin Chen Hao Tang preparation

A method for the rapid and simultaneous determination of 6,7-dimethylesculetin (CAS 120-08-1) and geniposide (CAS 24512-63-8) in rat plasma has been developed, using validated high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with solid phase extraction (SPE). The HPLC analysis was performed on a commercially available column (200 mm x 4.6 mm, 5 microm) with acetonitrile-methanol-0.1% aqueous formic acid as mobile phase and the UV detection at 343 nm and 238 nm for 6,7-dimethylesculetin and geniposide, respectively. The calibration curves for 6,7-dimethylesculetin and geniposide were linear over the range 0.4-25.6 microg/mL and 1.12-71.68 microg/mL, respectively. The lower limits of quantitation were 0.40 microg/ mL and 1.12 microg/mL, and the lower limits of detection were 0.06 microg/mL and 0.09 microg/ mL, respectively. The intra-day and inter-day precision for 6,7-dimethylesculetin and geniposide were < 5%, whereas the absolute recovery percentages were > 74%. A successful application of the developed HPLC analysis was demonstrated for the pharmacokinetic study of a Traditional Chinese Medicine formula of Yin Chen Hao Tang preparation.

Analysis of 3 common polymorphisms in the KCNK18 gene in an Australian migraine case-control cohort

Migraine is a common neurological disorder characterised by temporary disabling attacks of severe head pain and associated disturbances. There is significant evidence to suggest a genetic aetiology to the disease however few causal mutations have been conclusively linked to the migraine subtypes Migraine with (MA) or without Aura (MO). The Potassium Channel, Subfamily K, member 18 (KCNK18) gene, coding the potassium channel TRESK, is the first gene in which a rare mutation resulting in a non-functional truncated protein has been identified and causally linked to MA in a multigenerational family. In this study, three common polymorphisms in the KCNK18 gene were analysed for genetic variation in an Australian case-control migraine population consisting of 340 migraine cases and 345 controls. No association was observed for the polymorphisms examined with the migraine phenotype or with any haplotypes across the gene. Therefore even though the KCNK18 gene is the only gene to be causally linked to MA our studies indicate that common genetic variation in the gene is not a contributor to MA.

The Norfolk Island Eye Study (NIES) : rationale, methodology and distribution of ocular biometry (Biometry of the Bounty)

Aim: To describe the recruitment, ophthalmic examination methods and distribution of ocular biometry of participants in the Norfolk Island Eye Study, who were individuals descended from the English Bounty mutineers and their Polynesian wives. Methods: All 1,275 permanent residents of Norfolk Island aged over 15 years were invited to participate, including 602 individuals involved in a 2001 cardiovascular disease study. Participants completed a detailed questionnaire and underwent a comprehensive eye assessment including stereo disc and retinal photography, ocular coherence topography and conjunctival autofluorescence assessment. Additionally, blood or saliva was taken for DNA testing. Results: 781 participants aged over 15 years were seen (54% female), comprising 61% of the permanent Island population. 343 people (43.9%) could trace their family history to the Pitcairn Islanders (Norfolk Island Pitcairn Pedigree). Mean anterior chamber depth was 3.32mm, mean axial length (AL) was 23.5mm, and mean central corneal thickness was 546 microns. There were no statistically significant differences in these characteristics between persons with and without Pitcairn Island ancestry. Mean intra-ocular pressure was lower in people with Pitcairn Island ancestry: 15.89mmHg compared to those without Pitcairn Island ancestry 16.49mmHg (P = .007). The mean keratometry value was lower in people with Pitcairn Island ancestry (43.22 vs. 43.52, P = .007). The corneas were flatter in people of Pitcairn ancestry but there was no corresponding difference in AL or refraction. Conclusion: Our study population is highly representative of the permanent population of Norfolk Island. Ocular biometry was similar to that of other white populations. Heritability estimates, linkage analysis and genome-wide studies will further elucidate the genetic determinants of chronic ocular diseases in this genetic isolate.

Molecular mechanisms of migraine

Migraine is a common complex disorder that affects a large portion of the population and thus incurs a substantial economic burden on society. The disorder is characterized by recurrent headaches that are unilateral and usually accompanied by nausea, vomiting, photophobia, and phonophobia. The range of clinical characteristics is broad and there is evidence of comorbidity with other neurological diseases, complicating both the diagnosis and management of the disorder. Although the class of drugs known as the triptans (serotonin 5-HT1B/1D agonists) has been shown to be effective in treating a significant number of patients with migraine, treatment may in the future be further enhanced by identifying drugs that selectively target molecular mechanisms causing susceptibility to the disease. Genetically, migraine is a complex familial disorder in which the severity and susceptibility of individuals is most likely governed by several genes that may be different among families. Identification of the genomic variants involved in genetic predisposition to migraine should facilitate the development of more effective diagnostic and therapeutic applications. Genetic profiling, combined with our knowledge of therapeutic response to drugs, should enable the development of specific, individually-tailored treatment.

“Which child left behind” : historical issues regarding equity in science assessment

Assessment of learning plays a dominant role in formal education in the forms of determining features of curriculum that are emphasized, pedagogic methods that teachers use with their students, and parents’ and employers’ understanding of how well students have performed. A common perception is that fair assessment applies the same mode of assessment and content focus for all students—the approach of assessments in international comparative studies of science achievement. This article examines research evidence demonstrating that the act of assessment is not neutral—different forms of assessment advantage or disadvantage groups of students on the basis of family backgrounds, gender, race, or disability. Assessment that implicitly or explicitly captures the social capital of the child serves to consolidate, not address, educational equity. The article provides an overview of ways that science curriculum focus and assessment can introduce bias in the identification of student achievement. It examines the effect of changes to curriculum and assessment approaches in science, and relationships between assessment of science and the cultural context of the student. Recommendations are provided for science–assessment research to address bias for different groups of students.

Accuracy of weight status perception in contemporary Australian children and adolescents

Aim: To explore weight status perception and its relation to actual weight status in a contemporary cohort of 5- to 17-year-old children and adolescents. Methods: Body mass index (BMI), derived from height and weight measurements, and perception of weight status (‘too thin’, ‘about right’ and ‘too fat’) were evaluated in 3043 participants from the Healthy Kids Queensland Survey. In children less than 12 years of age, weight status perception was obtained from the parents, whereas the adolescents self-reported their perceived weight status. Results: Compared with measured weight status by established BMI cut-offs, just over 20% of parents underestimated their child's weight status and only 1% overestimated. Adolescent boys were more likely to underestimate their weight status compared with girls (26.4% vs. 10.2%, P < 0.05) whereas adolescent girls were more likely to overestimate than underestimate (11.8% vs. 3.4%, P < 0.05). Underestimation was greater by parents of overweight children compared with those of obese children, but still less than 50% of parents identified their obese child as ‘too fat’. There was greater recognition of overweight status in the adolescents, with 83% of those who were obese reporting they were ‘too fat’. Conclusion: Whilst there was a high degree of accuracy of weight status perception in those of healthy weight, there was considerable underestimation of weight status, particularly by parents of children who were overweight or obese. Strategies are required that enable parents to identify what a healthy weight looks like and help them understand when intervention is needed to prevent further weight gain as the child gets older.

Biobanking of blood and bone marrow : emerging challenges for custodians of public resources

The Australian Bone Marrow Donor Registry (ABMDR) is a publicly funded company that is part of an international network that facilitates unrelated bone marrow transplantation. This role means that the ABMDR has access to a large biospecimen repository, therefore making it a highly valuable research resource. Recognising the potential value of these biospecimens for research purposes, the ABMDR is in the process of determining whether, and how, to share its biospecimens with other biobanks. While this would undoubtedly be of value to the scientific community, and ultimately to the wider community, it would also inevitably transform the role of an institution whose primary role is therapeutic, and would compromise the degree of control that a custodian has over donated material. This article describe the challenges confronting the ABMDR, and organisations like it, in balancing their duties to donors, patients, researchers and the general public. These problems have led inevitably to the use of "property" rights language in the discussion of these issues but notions of gift, ownership, trusteeship and transfer might also be considered.

New approaches to making the microenvironment of the female reproductive tract hostile to HIV

The studies presented in this review explore three distinct areas with potential for inhibiting HIV infection in women. Based on emerging information from the physiology, endocrinology and immunology of the female reproductive tract (FRT), we propose unique 'works in progress' for protecting women from HIV. Various aspects of FRT immunity are suppressed by estradiol during the menstrual cycle, making women more susceptible to HIV infection. By engineering commensal Lactobacillus to secrete the anti-HIV molecule Elafin as estradiol levels increase, women could be protected from HIV infection. Selective estrogen response modifiers enhance barrier integrity and enhance secretion of protective anti-HIV molecules. Finally, understanding the interactions and regulation of FRT endogenous antimicrobials, proteases, antiproteases, etc., all of which are under hormonal control, will open new avenues to therapeutic manipulation of the FRT mucosal microenvironment. By seeking new alternatives to preventing HIV infection in women, we may finally disrupt the HIV pandemic.

Role of Human Topoisomerase I in DNA Repair and Apoptosis

Human topoisomerase I (htopoI) is an enzyme that up to now was believed to function mainly in the removal of torsional stress generated during transcription and replication. In 1998, it was found that htopoI might play another important role in the cellular response to DNA damage -- the so-called htopoI damage response. Since this initial discovery, many studies have suggested that the htopoI damage response is involved in DNA repair as well as in apoptosis. Here we discuss the earliest as well as the latest results in this field. Combining all of the published and as yet unpublished results, we suggest and discuss a model of how htopoI may function during DNA repair and apoptosis. Furthermore, numerous results show that the htopoI damage response is not a spontaneous event, but is strictly regulated by cellular signalling pathways. We discuss which pathways may be involved and how the htopoI damage response is activated. Although the htopoI damage response was discovered several years ago, research in this area is just beginning. The future will surely bring more clarity regarding the precise mechanism behind the involvement of htopoI in DNA repair and apoptosis, as well as its implications for a broader understanding of how the human organism ensures genomic stability.

Challenges to Criminal Justice Reform

The Promise of Law Reform the most comprehensive examination of the institutions and processes of law reform published in the common law world and provides a rich source of information, inspiration and ideas. It is an edited collection of 30 essays published to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Australian Law Reform Commission. The authors - law reform commissioners, judges, academics, politicians, government officials, and journalists - reflect the plurality of law reform styles and structures, within Australia and overseas. They cover the broad themes of the history, purpose and function of law reform; institutional design of law reform agencies; methodology and operations; how successful law reform should be assessed and judged; cooperation and mutual assistance; other law reform initiatives; and law reform in action.

A nation's role in addressing base erosion and profit shifting : sovereignty in relation to transfer pricing

The notion of sovereignty is central to any international tax issue. While a nation is free to design its tax laws as it sees fit and raise revenue in accordance with the needs of its citizens, it is not possible to undertake such a task in isolation. Tax interactions between sovereign states cannot be avoided. Ultimately, the interactions mean that a nation must decide whether or engage in both collaboration and co ordination with other nations and supranational bodies alike or maintain a unilateral stance in relation to its tax policy. This article considers a modern conceptualisation of sovereignty to argue that a move towards a more unified approach to addressing international base erosion and profit sharing may be the ultimate exercise of national fiscal sovereignty.