Pass the scissors : consumers close in on the fashion industry

The fashion ecosystem is at boiling point as consumers turn up the heat in all areas of the fashion value, trend and supply chain. While traditionally fashion has been a monologue from designer brand to consumer, new technology and the virtual world has given consumers a voice to engage brands in a conversation to express evolving needs, ideas and feedback. Product customisation is no longer innovative. Successful brands are including customers in the design process and holding conversations ‘with’ them to improve product, manufacturing, sales, distribution, marketing and sustainable business practices. Co-creation and crowd sourcing are integral to any successful business model and designers and manufacturers are supplying the technology or tools for these creative, active, participatory ‘prosumers’. With this collaboration however, there arises a worrying trend for fashion professionals. The ‘design it yourself’, ‘indiepreneur’ who with the combination of technology, the internet, excess manufacturing capacity, crowd funding and the idea of sharing the creative integrity of a product (‘copyleft’ not copyright) is challenging the notion that the fashion supply chain is complex. The passive ‘consumer’ no longer exists. Fashion designers now share the stage with ‘amateur’ creators who are disrupting every activity they touch, while being motivated by profit as well as a quest for originality and innovation. This paper examines the effects this ‘consumer’ engagement is having on traditional fashion models and the fashion supply chain. Crowd sourcing, crowd funding, co-creating, design it yourself, global sourcing, the virtual supply chain, social media, online shopping, group buying, consumer to consumer marketing and retail, and branding the ‘individual’ are indicative of the new consumer-driven fashion models. Consumers now drive the fashion industry - from setting trends, through to creating, producing, selling and marketing product. They can turn up the heat at any time _ and any point _ in the fashion supply chain. They are raising the temperature at each and every stage of the chain, decreasing or eliminating the processes involved: decreasing the risk of fashion obsolescence, quantities for manufacture, complexity of distribution and the consumption of product; eliminating certain stages altogether and limiting the brand as custodians of marketing. Some brands are discovering a new ‘enemy’ – the very people they are trying to sell to. Keywords: fashion supply chain, virtual world, consumer, ‘prosumers’, co-creation, fashion designers

Strolling through the (post)modern city: Modes of being a flaneur in picture books

The city and the urban condition, popular subjects of art, literature, and film, have been commonly represented as fragmented, isolating, violent, with silent crowds moving through the hustle and bustle of a noisy, polluted cityspace. Included in this diverse artistic field is children’s literature—an area of creative and critical inquiry that continues to play a central role in illuminating and shaping perceptions of the city, of city lifestyles, and of the people who traverse the urban landscape. Fiction’s textual representations of cities, its sites and sights, lifestyles and characters have drawn on traditions of realist, satirical, and fantastic writing to produce the protean urban story—utopian, dystopian, visionary, satirical—with the goal of offering an account or critique of the contemporary city and the urban condition. In writing about cities and urban life, children’s literature variously locates the child in relation to the social (urban) space. This dialogic relation between subject and social space has been at the heart of writings about/of the flâneur: a figure who experiences modes of being in the city as it transforms under the influences of modernism and postmodernism. Within this context of a changing urban ontology brought about by (post)modern styles and practices, this article examines five contemporary picture books: The Cows Are Going to Paris by David Kirby and Allen Woodman; Ooh-la-la (Max in love) by Maira Kalman; Mr Chicken Goes to Paris and Old Tom’s Holiday by Leigh Hobbs; and The Empty City by David Megarrity. I investigate the possibility of these texts reviving the act of flânerie, but in a way that enables different modes of being a flâneur, a neo-flâneur. I suggest that the neo-flâneur retains some of the characteristics of the original flâneur, but incorporates others that take account of the changes wrought by postmodernity and globalization, particularly tourism and consumption. The dual issue at the heart of the discussion is that tourism and consumption as agents of cultural globalization offer a different way of thinking about the phenomenon of flânerie. While the flâneur can be regarded as the precursor to the tourist, the discussion considers how different modes of flânerie, such as the tourist-flâneur, are an inevitable outcome of commodification of the activities that accompany strolling through the (post)modern urban space.

Assessing of circuit breaker restrike risks using computer simulation and wavelet analysis

A breaker restrike is an abnormal arcing phenomenon, leading to a possible breaker failure. Eventually, this failure leads to interruption of the transmission and distribution of the electricity supply system until the breaker is replaced. Before 2008, there was little evidence in the literature of monitoring techniques based on restrike measurement and interpretation produced during switching of capacitor banks and shunt reactor banks in power systems. In 2008 a non-intrusive radiometric restrike measurement method and a restrike hardware detection algorithm were developed by M.S. Ramli and B. Kasztenny. However, the limitations of the radiometric measurement method are a band limited frequency response as well as limitations in amplitude determination. Current restrike detection methods and algorithms require the use of wide bandwidth current transformers and high voltage dividers. A restrike switch model using Alternative Transient Program (ATP) and Wavelet Transforms which support diagnostics are proposed. Restrike phenomena become a new diagnostic process using measurements, ATP and Wavelet Transforms for online interrupter monitoring. This research project investigates the restrike switch model Parameter „A. dielectric voltage gradient related to a normal and slowed case of the contact opening velocity and the escalation voltages, which can be used as a diagnostic tool for a vacuum circuit-breaker (CB) at service voltages between 11 kV and 63 kV. During current interruption of an inductive load at current quenching or chopping, a transient voltage is developed across the contact gap. The dielectric strength of the gap should rise to a point to withstand this transient voltage. If it does not, the gap will flash over, resulting in a restrike. A straight line is fitted through the voltage points at flashover of the contact gap. This is the point at which the gap voltage has reached a value that exceeds the dielectric strength of the gap. This research shows that a change in opening contact velocity of the vacuum CB produces a corresponding change in the slope of the gap escalation voltage envelope. To investigate the diagnostic process, an ATP restrike switch model was modified with contact opening velocity computation for restrike waveform signature analyses along with experimental investigations. This also enhanced a mathematical CB model with the empirical dielectric model for SF6 (sulphur hexa-fluoride) CBs at service voltages above 63 kV and a generalised dielectric curve model for 12 kV CBs. A CB restrike can be predicted if there is a similar type of restrike waveform signatures for measured and simulated waveforms. The restrike switch model applications are used for: computer simulations as virtual experiments, including predicting breaker restrikes; estimating the interrupter remaining life of SF6 puffer CBs; checking system stresses; assessing point-on-wave (POW) operations; and for a restrike detection algorithm development using Wavelet Transforms. A simulated high frequency nozzle current magnitude was applied to an Equation (derived from the literature) which can calculate the life extension of the interrupter of a SF6 high voltage CB. The restrike waveform signatures for a medium and high voltage CB identify its possible failure mechanism such as delayed opening, degraded dielectric strength and improper contact travel. The simulated and measured restrike waveform signatures are analysed using Matlab software for automatic detection. Experimental investigation of a 12 kV vacuum CB diagnostic was carried out for the parameter determination and a passive antenna calibration was also successfully developed with applications for field implementation. The degradation features were also evaluated with a predictive interpretation technique from the experiments, and the subsequent simulation indicates that the drop in voltage related to the slow opening velocity mechanism measurement to give a degree of contact degradation. A predictive interpretation technique is a computer modeling for assessing switching device performance, which allows one to vary a single parameter at a time; this is often difficult to do experimentally because of the variable contact opening velocity. The significance of this thesis outcome is that it is a non-intrusive method developed using measurements, ATP and Wavelet Transforms to predict and interpret a breaker restrike risk. The measurements on high voltage circuit-breakers can identify degradation that can interrupt the distribution and transmission of an electricity supply system. It is hoped that the techniques for the monitoring of restrike phenomena developed by this research will form part of a diagnostic process that will be valuable for detecting breaker stresses relating to the interrupter lifetime. Suggestions for future research, including a field implementation proposal to validate the restrike switch model for ATP system studies and the hot dielectric strength curve model for SF6 CBs, are given in Appendix A.

The utilization of waste date seed as bio-oil and activated carbon by pyrolysis process

The renovation of biomass waste in the form of date seed waste into activated carbon and biofuel by fixed bed pyrolysis reactor has been focused in this study to obtain gaseous, liquid, and solid products. The date seed in particle form is pyrolysed in an externally heated fixed bed reactor with nitrogen as the carrier gas. The reactor is heated from 400◦C to 600◦C. A maximum liquid yield of 50wt.% and char of 30wt.% are obtained at a reactor bed temperature of 500◦C with a running time of 120 minutes. The oil is found to possess favorable flash point and reasonable density and viscosity. The higher calorific value is found to be 28.636 MJ/kg which is significantly higher than other biomass derived. Decolonization of 85–97% is recorded for the textile effluent and 75–90% for the tannery effluent, in all cases decreasing with temperature increase. Good adsorption capacity of the prepared activated carbon in case of diluted textile and tannery effluent was found.

Fixed bed pyrolysis of date seed waste for liquid oil production

The conversion of biomass waste in the form of date seed into pyrolysis oil by fixed bed pyrolysis reactor has been taken into consideration in this study. A fixed bed pyrolysis has been designed and fabricated for obtaining liquid fuel from these date seeds. The major component of the system are fixed bed pyrolysis reactor, liquid condenser and liquid collector. The date seed in particle form is pyrolysed in an externally heated 7.6 cm diameter and 46 cm high fixed bed reactor with nitrogen as the carrier gas. The reactor is heated by means of a biomass source cylindrical heater from 4000C to 6000C. The products are oil, char and gas. The reactor bed temperature, running time and feed particle size are considered as process parameters. The parameters are found to influence the product yield significantly. A maximum liquid yield of 50 wt.% is obtained at a reactor bed temperature of 5000 C for a feed size volume of 0.11- 0.20 cm3 with a running time of 120 minutes. The pyrolysis oil obtained at this optimum process conditions are analyzed for some fuel properties and compared with some other biomass derived pyrolysis oils and also with conventional fuels. The oil is found to possess favorable flash point and reasonable density and viscosity. The higher calorific value is found to be 28.636 MJ/kg which is significantly higher than other biomass derived pyrolysis oils.

Pyrolysis decomposition of mahogony seeds (Swietenia macrophylla) for alternative fuel oil

A fixed bed pyrolysis has been designed and fabricated for obtaining liquid fuel from Mahogany seeds. The major components of the system are fixed bed pyrolysis reactor, liquid condenser and liquid collectors. The Mahogany seed in particle form is pyrolysed in an externally heated 10 cm diameter and 36 cm high fixed bed reactor with nitrogen as the carrier gas. The reactor is heated by means of a biomass source cylindrical heater from 450oC to 600oC. The products are oil, char and gas. The reactor bed temperature, running time and feed particle size are considered as process parameters. A maximum liquid yield of 54wt% of biomass feed is obtained with particle size of 1.18 mm at a reactor bed temperature of 5500C with a running time of 90 minutes. The oil is found to possess favorable flash point and reasonable density and viscosity. The higher calorific value is found to be 39.9 MJ/kg which is higher than other biomass derived pyrolysis oils.

Fixed bed pyrolysis of pulm seed waste for liquid oil production

Among various thermo-chemical conversion processes, pyrolysis is considered as an emerging technology for liquid oil production. The conversion of biomass waste in the form of plum seed into pyrolysis oil by fixed bed pyrolysis reactor has been taken into consideration in this study. A fixed bed pyrolysis has been designed and fabricated for obtaining liquid fuel from this plum seeds. The major component of the system are fixed bed pyrolysis reactor, liquid condenser and liquid collectors. The plum seed in particle form is pyrolysed in an externally heated 7.6 cm diameter and 46 cm high fixed bed reactor with nitrogen as the carrier gas. The reactor is heated by means of a biomass source cylindrical heater from 4000C to 6000C. The products are oil, char and gas. The reactor bed temperature, running time and feed particle size are considered as process parameters. The parameters are found to influence the product yield significantly. A maximum liquid yield of 39 wt% of biomass feed is obtained with particle size of 2.36-4.75 mm at a reactor bed temperature of 520oC with a running time of 120 minutes. The pyrolysis oil obtained at this optimum process conditions are analyzed for some fuel properties and compared with some other biomass derived pyrolysis oils and conventional fuels. The oil is found to possess favorable flash point and reasonable density and viscosity. The higher calorific value is found to be 22.39 MJ/kg which is higher than other biomass derived pyrolysis oils.

Production of liquid fuel and activated carbon from mahogany seed by using pyrolysis technology

The renovation of biomass waste in the form of Mahogany seed waste into bio-fuel as well as activated carbon by fixed bed pyrolysis reactor has been taken into consideration in this study. The mahogany seed in particle form is pyrolyzed in an enormously heated fixed bed reactor with nitrogen as the carrier gas. The reactor is heated from 4000C to 6000C using a external heater in which rice husk and charcoal are used as the heater biomass fuel. Reactor bed temperature, running time and feed particle size have been varied to get the optimum operating conditions of the system. The parameters are found to influence the product yields to a large extent. A maximum liquid and char yield are 49 wt. % and 35 wt. % respectively obtained at a reactor bed temperature 5000C when the running time is 90 minutes. Acquired pyrolyzed oil at these optimal process conditions were analyzed for some of their properties as an alternative fuel. The oil possesses comparable flame temperature, favorable flash point and reasonable viscosity along with somewhat higher density. The kinematic viscosity of the derived fuel is 3.8 cSt and density is 1525 kg/m3. The higher calorific value is found 32.4 MJ/kg which is significantly higher than other biomass derived fuel. Moderate adsorption capacity of the prepared activated carbon in case of methyl blue & tea water was also revealed.

Ensemble-based DDoS detection and mitigation model

This work-in-progress paper presents an ensemble-based model for detecting and mitigating Distributed Denial-of-Service (DDoS) attacks, and its partial implementation. The model utilises network traffic analysis and MIB (Management Information Base) server load analysis features for detecting a wide range of network and application layer DDoS attacks and distinguishing them from Flash Events. The proposed model will be evaluated against realistic synthetic network traffic generated using a software-based traffic generator that we have developed as part of this research. In this paper, we summarise our previous work, highlight the current work being undertaken along with preliminary results obtained and outline the future directions of our work.

Learning personalized tag ontology from user tagging information

The cross-sections of the Social Web and the Semantic Web has put folksonomy in the spot light for its potential in overcoming knowledge acquisition bottleneck and providing insight for "wisdom of the crowds". Folksonomy which comes as the results of collaborative tagging activities has provided insight into user's understanding about Web resources which might be useful for searching and organizing purposes. However, collaborative tagging vocabulary poses some challenges since tags are freely chosen by users and may exhibit synonymy and polysemy problem. In order to overcome these challenges and boost the potential of folksonomy as emergence semantics we propose to consolidate the diverse vocabulary into a consolidated entities and concepts. We propose to extract a tag ontology by ontology learning process to represent the semantics of a tagging community. This paper presents a novel approach to learn the ontology based on the widely used lexical database WordNet. We present personalization strategies to disambiguate the semantics of tags by combining the opinion of WordNet lexicographers and users’ tagging behavior together. We provide empirical evaluations by using the semantic information contained in the ontology in a tag recommendation experiment. The results show that by using the semantic relationships on the ontology the accuracy of the tag recommender has been improved.

Anatomical MR imaging of long bones : comparative performance of MRI at 1.5 T and 3 T

The current gold standard for the design of orthopaedic implants is 3D models of long bones obtained using computed tomography (CT). However, high-resolution CT imaging involves high radiation exposure, which limits its use in healthy human volunteers. Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) is an attractive alternative for the scanning of healthy human volunteers for research purposes. Current limitations of MRI include difficulties of tissue segmentation within joints and long scanning times. In this work, we explore the possibility of overcoming these limitations through the use of MRI scanners operating at a higher field strength. We quantitatively compare the quality of anatomical MR images of long bones obtained at 1.5 T and 3 T and optimise the scanning protocol of 3 T MRI. FLASH images of the right leg of five human volunteers acquired at 1.5 T and 3 T were compared in terms of signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) and contrast-to-noise ratio (CNR). The comparison showed a relatively high CNR and SNR at 3 T for most regions of the femur and tibia, with the exception of the distal diaphyseal region of the femur and the mid diaphyseal region of the tibia. This was accompanied by an ~65% increase in the longitudinal spin relaxation time (T1) of the muscle at 3 T compared to 1.5 T. The results suggest that MRI at 3 T may be able to enhance the segmentability and potentially improve the accuracy of 3D anatomical models of long bones, compared to 1.5 T. We discuss how the total imaging times at 3 T can be kept short while maximising the CNR and SNR of the images obtained.

Crowdsourcing information systems : definition, typology and design

Crowdsourcing has become a popular approach for capitalizing on the potential of large and open crowds of people external to the organization. While crowdsourcing as a phenomenon is studied in a variety of fields, research mostly focuses on isolated aspects and little is known about the integrated design of crowdsourcing efforts. We introduce a socio-technical systems perspective on crowdsourcing, which provides a deeper understanding of the components and relationships in crowdsourcing systems. By considering the function of crowdsourcing systems within their organizational context, we develop a typology of four distinct system archetypes. We analyze the characteristics of each type and derive a number of design requirements for the respective system components. The paper lays a foundation for IS-based crowdsourcing research, channels related academic work, and helps guiding the study and design of crowdsourcing information systems.

Assessment of neuroretinal function in a group of functional amblyopes with documented LGN deficits

Purpose In this study we examine neuroretinal function in five amblyopes, who had been shown in previous functional MRI (fMRI) studies to have compromised function of the lateral geniculate nucleus (LGN), to determine if the fMRI deficit in amblyopia may have its origin at the retinal level. Methods We used slow flash multifocal ERG (mfERG) and compared averaged five ring responses of the amblyopic and fellow eyes across a 35 deg field. Central responses were also assessed over a field which was about 6.3 deg in diameter. We measured central retinal thickness using optical coherence tomography. Central fields were measured using the MP1-Microperimeter which also assesses ocular fixation during perimetry. MfERG data were compared with fMRI results from a previous study. Results Amblyopic eyes had reduced response density amplitudes (first major negative to first positive (N1-P1) responses) for the central and paracentral retina (up to 18 deg diameter) but not for the mid-periphery (from 18 to 35 deg). Retinal thickness was within normal limits for all eyes, and not different between amblyopic and fellow eyes. Fixation was maintained within the central 4° more than 80% of the time by four of the five participants; fixation assessed using bivariate contour ellipse areas (BCEA) gave rankings similar to those of the MP-1 system. There was no significant relationship between BCEA and mfERG response for either amblyopic or fellow eye. There was no significant relationship between the central mfERG eye response difference and the selective blood oxygen level dependent (BOLD) LGN eye response difference previously seen in these participants. Conclusions Retinal responses in amblyopes can be reduced within the central field without an obvious anatomical basis. Additionally, this retinal deficit may not be the reason why the LGN BOLD (blood oxygen level dependent) responses are reduced for amblyopic eye stimulation.

The relationship between CFH and ARMS2 genotypes and neuroretinal function in persons without age-related macular degeneration

Purpose: To determine whether neuroretinal function differs in healthy persons with and without common risk gene variants for age- related macular degeneration (AMD) and no ophthalmoscopic signs of AMD, and to compare those findings in persons with manifest early AMD. Methods and Participants: Neuroretinal function was assessed with the multifocal electroretinogram (mfERG) (VERIS, Redwood City, CA,) in 32 participants (22 healthy persons with no clinical signs of AMD and 10 early AMD patients). The 22 healthy participants with no AMD were risk genotypes for either the CFH (rs380390) and/or ARMS2 (rs10490920). We used a slow flash mfERG paradigm (3 inserted frames) and a 103 hexagon stimulus array. Recordings were made with DTL electrodes; fixation and eye movements were monitored online. Trough N1 to peak P1 (N1P1) response densities and P1-implicit times (IT) were analysed in 5 concentric rings. Results: N1P1 response densities (mean ± SD) for concentric rings 1-3 were on average significantly higher in at-risk genotypes (ring 1: 17.97 nV/deg2 ± 1.9, ring 2: 11.7 nV/deg2 ±1.3, ring 3: 8.7 nV/deg2 ± 0.7) compared to those without risk (ring 1: 13.7 nV/deg2 ± 1.9, ring 2: 9.2 nV/deg2 ±0.8, ring 3: 7.3 nV/deg2 ± 1.1) and compared to persons with early AMD (ring 1: 15.3 nV/deg2 ± 4.8, ring 2: 9.1 nV/deg2 ±2.3, ring 3 nV/deg2: 7.3± 1.3) (p<0.5). The group implicit times, P1-ITs for ring 1 were on average delayed in the early AMD patients (36.4 ms ± 1.0) compared to healthy participants with (35.1 ms ± 1.1) or without risk genotypes (34.8 ms ±1.3), although these differences were not significant. Conclusion: Neuroretinal function in persons with normal fundi can be differentiated into subgroups based on their genetics. Increased neuroretinal activity in persons who carry AMD risk genotypes may be due to genetically determined subclinical inflammatory and/or histological changes in the retina. Assessment of neuroretinal function in healthy persons genetically susceptible to AMD may be a useful early biomarker before there is clinical manifestation of AMD.

Time-varying bispectral analysis of visually evoked multi-channel EEG

Theoretical foundations of higher order spectral analysis are revisited to examine the use of time-varying bicoherence on non-stationary signals using a classical short-time Fourier approach. A methodology is developed to apply this to evoked EEG responses where a stimulus-locked time reference is available. Short-time windowed ensembles of the response at the same offset from the reference are considered as ergodic cyclostationary processes within a non-stationary random process. Bicoherence can be estimated reliably with known levels at which it is significantly different from zero and can be tracked as a function of offset from the stimulus. When this methodology is applied to multi-channel EEG, it is possible to obtain information about phase synchronization at different regions of the brain as the neural response develops. The methodology is applied to analyze evoked EEG response to flash visual stimulii to the left and right eye separately. The EEG electrode array is segmented based on bicoherence evolution with time using the mean absolute difference as a measure of dissimilarity. Segment maps confirm the importance of the occipital region in visual processing and demonstrate a link between the frontal and occipital regions during the response. Maps are constructed using bicoherence at bifrequencies that include the alpha band frequency of 8Hz as well as 4 and 20Hz. Differences are observed between responses from the left eye and the right eye, and also between subjects. The methodology shows potential as a neurological functional imaging technique that can be further developed for diagnosis and monitoring using scalp EEG which is less invasive and less expensive than magnetic resonance imaging.