The shoe sellers of Karoussades

A short travel memoir about the village of Karoussades, Corfu. Early on my first day in the village, a message came that two respectable ladies of Karoussades, its shoe sellers, needed a section of wall lime-washed. They were willing to use the black market labour organized from the Pirate’s taverna, where I waited for my first job—but they did ask that he send someone polite...

Losing yourself in the moment

A travel article about Thailand, following a journey from Bangkok to Khanom. DEPENDING on how you look at it, you're either hopelessly lost or about to enjoy some fascinating adventures off the usual tourist tracks, as Kari Gislason discovers. One of the great lessons of travel is that getting lost is usually better than getting found. There are various ways of achieving this. I, for one, seem to manage getting lost most easily when I have a map in my hands...

Experience indigenous culture in Arnhem Land, NT

A travel article about a journey to the Cobourg Peninsula, Arnhem Land. "NOW I know I'm back,'' says our guide David McMahon as the scent of wood smoke makes its way into the 4WD. For McMahon, being back means Kakadu and Arnhem Land, and ultimately our final destination in the Northern Territory's Cobourg Peninsula. In the north, one of the first things you need to adjust is your attitude to fire. The indigenous people have long worked with it. The rangers perform controlled burns. The animals have adapted and know how to escape the flames. The smoke trail leads us down the old Jim Jim Rd, our first stretch of dirt track since leaving Darwin. Our destination is the Venture North campsite at Garig Gunak Barlu National Park...

All the Flavours of Asia

A travel article about food and landscape in Thailand. Thick forest islands the first limestone karst that we see. In the cracks and ledges of these cliff faces, low trees make a steady ascent. From the road, it looks an impossible climb, but the forest has managed to find a line to the top and to form a platform of dense canopy. We’re coming into Krabi, an area of southern Thailand famous for these formations. Soon, the forest base will be replaced by ocean. Grottos, undercuts, and yellow beaches will add a skirt of luxury to the drama to the cliffs...

Food trail through Jasper, Lake Louise and Calgary in Canada

A travel article about food and landscape in Alberta. IN THE remote islands off Canada's east coast, I was given an old rule of survival: If you get lost in the forest, follow the bear tracks and eat what the bears eat, except skunk cabbage. There was no second rule for what to do about the bear, should he also appear. No matter. "Do this and you'll live," it says, "just as we did in the past."...

Eclectic blend somehow makes sense at Cable Beach Resort in Broome

A travel article about Cable Beach, Broome. A DAY of flights, confined spaces and queues comes to an end. I'm more tired than when my kids were infants. I've lost all sensation in my knees. And I'm thinking that perhaps I should have taken my wallet out my back pocket. In the course of a day's sitting, it seems to have indented a deep square into my right buttock...

Lessons from a Church Mural

A travel article about the Moselle Valley, Germany. There’s a school of thought that says you shouldn’t look back in life. This is not the received wisdom in Cochem, a village on the Moselle river known, like many others in the area, for its white wine and fairytale castle. Here, they say, it’s bad luck if you don’t turn around for one last look at a mural of St Christopher that graces the castle’s main tower...

Boat race festival in Samoa

A travel article about the Teuila Festival in Samoa. "IT isn't a festival without a boat race," Faumui Iese says. We stand together on one side of a spectator boat as it follows the Teuila Festival Fautasi Race. On the shoreline, a crowd clambers down a retaining wall. It seems his is a common sentiment. Each team represents a village...

Wilds of the Canadian Rockies

A travel article about touring in the Rockies, Alberta. MORAINE Lake, held up by a crown of mountains near the small town of Lake Louise, is opal blue. You'd need a precious stone to cut the surface. And even on a hot morning in August, there are plenty around: diamonds of snow decorate the mountain tops and, in their reflections, slice the lake with white triangles. We are at the start of a track that climbs from the lake to Mt Temple, the tallest mountain in the area and two or three hours' walk away. When the track zigzags back, we glimpse the lake through gaps in the conifer forest...

A cultural life in Samoa

A travel article about a tour of Samoa. I WAKE to the smell of smoke. Outside, a morning routine has begun - the burning of leaves that overnight settle in the backyards. Even in the capital, gardens are miniature farms. Chickens, bananas and coconuts. When the smoke haze lifts and the faint waves of a sea breeze come off Apia Harbour, the corrugated iron roofs shine through like headlights coming out of fog...

Moved by spirit of Canadian nature

A travel article about a visit to Klemtu and the Great Bear Rainforest, British Columbia. A LOW-TIDE mark of rocks coated in orange seaweed borders the islands of the Great Bear Rainforest. Our seaplane stays low under the clouds. As we approach the village of Klemtu, turning into Finlayson Channel, the trees beneath us thicken against the shoreline like a concert crowd being pushed from behind. There's no gap between the dark, still sea and the front row of soaring conifers, seemingly no entry point into one of the last great wilderness areas.

City that enjoys life

A travel article about lifestyle and architecture in Vancouver, Canada. I arrived in Vancouver on a Sunday morning and followed the smell of crepes to a café that had opened early. It was warm, and the outside tables were filling up. The others had a last-night look about them, except a family that smiled as they took the table next to mine. There were no shoppers yet, but the mall was busy with walkers and cyclists. Here and there the down-and-out found seats in the sun; their shadows ran the length of shop fronts...

The pirate of Karoussades

A travel memoir about the village of Karoussades, Corfu. When Liam and I caught the overnight ferry to Corfu we didn't have money for food, and my shoes had opened at the seams. Our last lira had been spent on a carton of Lucky Strike, which had been stolen by the time we docked the next day. In the haze of a Greek morning we were ushered into a minivan by the owner of the Karousades Camp Ground, who said there was work in the north of the island. Your best chance was with the Pirate. He took a little getting used to, but you were sure to get something...

Perfect start to a river cruise

A travel article about Amsterdam. BY COINCIDENCE, I flew to Amsterdam a week after I'd read Ian McEwan's novel of the same name. Amsterdam is a modern take on the theme of duelling and, in many ways, he couldn't have chosen a more appropriate place for his title. This is a city that duels with itself. I flew in at dawn, traditionally the moment to test your abilities at 10 paces. The countryside below was dark but blocks of orange light pulsed in the fields...

Lazy days of simply going with the flow

A travel article about a river cruise from Amsterdam to Basel. When Captain Plamen Veselinov invites me to join him on the bridge, I can at last put a question that’s been running through my mind for days. It’s about the locks. How does he manage to line up the vessel as it approaches? Is the ship guided in electronically? He returns my questions with a boyish smile that does a good deal to veil his many years on the river. Crunching his way through a heavy Bulgarian accent, he says, “No, it’s all in the eyes and the hands. It’s magic. Don’t tell David Copperfield. He would get very jealous...