Nourishing or polluting : redefining the role of waste in the fashion system

Waste is intrinsic to the fashion system. Fashion is predicated on built-in obsolescence, and as such outmoded garments are rapidly discarded to charity shops or landfill. However, the story of fashion is also one of abundance and extravagance in design ideas. Every season there are new design details – prints, embroidery, embellishments, shapes and textures. This excess of ideas is in itself another form of waste, albeit one that is culturally nourishing. The grave of a fashion garment may also be the grave of a season’s research and creativity. This paper compares the tangible waste of the industry with its intangible waste, namely fashion’s creativity and cultural excess. Fashion’s excess and abundance of trends and ideas makes any move to curb the environmental impact difficult. For all practitioners of fashion – whether designers or consumers – the waste and excess inherent in the fashion system is a difficult ethical terrain to negotiate. However, inverting the wasteful phases of the production cycle can help reframe waste from pollution to a source of nourishment for future practice. While creative excesses of designers may be ‘wasted’ after a season, fashion styles and tropes are recycled and reinvented, with the once passé styles and design ideas from previous years revalorized and returned into the fashion system. Similarly, material garments acquire new value through entering or re-entering the second hand or vintage markets. Design processes can utilise pre or post-consumer textile waste, or eliminate waste through design. In these processes, waste becomes the primary source of nourishment for future fashion cycles.

Optimal power system stabilizer tuning in multi-machine system via an improved differential evolution

Power system stabilizer (PSS) is one of the most important controllers in modern power systems for damping low frequency oscillations. Many efforts have been dedicated to design the tuning methodologies and allocation techniques to obtain optimal damping behaviors of the system. Traditionally, it is tuned mostly for local damping performance, however, in order to obtain a globally optimal performance, the tuning of PSS needs to be done considering more variables. Furthermore, with the enhancement of system interconnection and the increase of system complexity, new tools are required to achieve global tuning and coordination of PSS to achieve optimal solution in a global meaning. Differential evolution (DE) is a recognized as a simple and powerful global optimum technique, which can gain fast convergence speed as well as high computational efficiency. However, as many other evolutionary algorithms (EA), the premature of population restricts optimization capacity of DE. In this paper, a modified DE is proposed and applied for optimal PSS tuning of 39-Bus New-England system. New operators are introduced to reduce the probability of getting premature. To investigate the impact of system conditions on PSS tuning, multiple operating points will be studied. Simulation result is compared with standard DE and particle swarm optimization (PSO).

How do Chinese fashion designers become global fashion leaders? A new perspective on legitimisation in China’s fashion system

The term fashion system describes inter-relationships between production and consumption, illustrating how the production of fashion is a collective activity. For instance, Yuniya Kawamura (2011) notes systems for the production of fashion differ around the globe and are subject to constant change, and Jennifer Craik (1994, 6) draws attention to an ‘array of competing and intermeshing systems cutting across western and non-western cultures. In China, Shanghai’s nascent fashion system seeks to emulate the Eurocentric system of Fashion Weeks and industry support groups. It promises designers a platform for global competition, yet there are tensions from within. Interaction with a fashion system inevitably means becoming validated or legitimised. Legitimisation in turn depends upon gatekeepers who make aesthetic judgments about the status, quality, and cultural value of a designers work (Becker 2008). My paper offers a new perspective on legitimisation that is drawn mainly from my PhD research. I argue that some Chinese fashion designers are on the path to becoming global fashion designers because they have embraced a global aesthetic that resonates with the human condition, rather than the manufactured authenticity of a Eurocentric fashion system that perpetuates endless consumption. In this way, they are able to ‘self-legitimise’. I contend these designers are ‘designers for humans’, because they are able to look beyond the mythology of fashion brands, and the Eurocentric fashion system, where they explore the tensions of man and culture in their practice. Furthermore, their design ethos pursues beauty, truth and harmony in the Chinese philosophical sense, as well as incorporating financial return in a process that is still enacted through a fashion system. Accordingly, cultural tradition, heritage and modernity, while still valuable, have less impact on their practice.

EdU, a new thymidine analogue for labelling proliferating cells in the nervous system

The standard method of labelling proliferating cells uses the thymidine analogue, bromodeoxyuridine (BrdU), which incorporates into the DNA during S-phase of the cell cycle. A disadvantage of this method is that the immunochemical processing requires pre-treatment of the cells and tissue with heat or acid to reveal the antigen. This pre-treatment reduces reliability of the method and degrades the specimen, reducing the ability for multiple immuno-fluorescence labelling at high resolution. We report here the utility of a novel thymidine analogue, ethynyl deoxyuridine (EdU), detected with a fluorescent azide via the “click” chemistry reaction (the Huisgen 1,3-dipolar cycloaddition reaction of an organic azide to a terminal acetylene). The detection of EdU requires no heat or acid treatment and the incorporated EdU is covalently conjugated to fluorescent probe. The reaction is quick and compatible with fluorescence immunochemistry and other fluorescent probes. We show here that EdU is non-toxic in vitro and in vivo and can be used in place of BrdU to label cells during neurogenesis and the progeny identified at least 30 days later. The fluorescent labelling of EdU, markedly improves the detection of proliferating cells and allows concurrent high resolution fluorescence immunochemistry.

Exploring Bodies in Time and Space

While the body, time and space are fundamental to human experience, comparatively little attention has been given to the connections between them. Here scholars from a wide range of disciplines explore important themes of embodied life in time and space across cultures, activities and bodymind states. Motivated by a common desire to deepen and extend our comprehension of these phenomena and the connections and conversations between them, this book emerged from intense inter-disciplinary dialogue during the 1st Global Conferences on Time, Space and the Body and Body Horror. A plenitude of theoretical approaches and media are deployed to investigate assumptions and pose problems, to creatively deconstruct and reconstruct the terms through which experience is rendered meaningful, pleasurable, and functional. These investigations, pursued through various research methods in fields of the arts, social and psychological sciences and humanities, invite readers into a genuinely pluralistic conversation around the most basic and profound aspects of being.

Global outsourcing, production and logistics

Supply chains are the core of most industrial networks in which your business operates. They provide the pipeline through which the products and services flow from supplier to customer across each element within the business activity system. Global supply chain relationships have become the basis for many industries with an international network of firms engaged in the supply of goods and services that must be produced to quality standards in one country and delivered just-in-time for assembly or integration into further production processes in another country, frequently many thousands of miles apart. This topic examines the nature of supply chain management and their role in strategic networking. The previous learning tasks have focused on having the correct internal mechanism to effectively manage the inputs and outputs of the organisation by implementing an effective and transparent management system. This learning task takes a look at how management intent strategy and innovation are used to measure the external factors that influence the overall performance of the organisation and develop new strategies by understanding the business cycle and the people within your market environment.

Genetic bottlenecks in time and space: reconstructing invasions from contemporary and historical collections

Herbarium accession data offer a useful historical botanical perspective and have been used to track the spread of plant invasions through time and space. Nevertheless, few studies have utilised this resource for genetic analysis to reconstruct a more complete picture of historical invasion dynamics, including the occurrence of separate introduction events. In this study, we combined nuclear and chloroplast microsatellite analyses of contemporary and historical collections of Senecio madagascariensis, a globally invasive weed first introduced to Australia c. 1918 from its native South Africa. Analysis of nuclear microsatellites, together with temporal spread data and simulations of herbarium voucher sampling, revealed distinct introductions to south-eastern Australia and mid-eastern Australia. Genetic diversity of the south-eastern invasive population was lower than in the native range, but higher than in the mid-eastern invasion. In the invasive range, despite its low resolution, our chloroplast microsatellite data revealed the occurrence of new haplotypes over time, probably as the result of subsequent introduction(s) to Australia from the native range during the latter half of the 20th century. Our work demonstrates how molecular studies of contemporary and historical field collections can be combined to reconstruct a more complete picture of the invasion history of introduced taxa. Further, our study indicates that a survey of contemporary samples only (as undertaken for the majority of invasive species studies) would be insufficient to identify potential source populations and occurrence of multiple introductions.

Discovery of a lipid synthesising organ in the auditory system of an insect

Weta possess typical Ensifera ears. Each ear comprises three functional parts: two equally sized tympanal membranes, an underlying system of modified tracheal chambers, and the auditory sensory organ, the crista acustica. This organ sits within an enclosed fluid-filled channel-previously presumed to be hemolymph. The role this channel plays in insect hearing is unknown. We discovered that the fluid within the channel is not actually hemolymph, but a medium composed principally of lipid from a new class. Three-dimensional imaging of this lipid channel revealed a previously undescribed tissue structure within the channel, which we refer to as the olivarius organ. Investigations into the function of the olivarius reveal de novo lipid synthesis indicating that it is producing these lipids in situ from acetate. The auditory role of this lipid channel was investigated using Laser Doppler vibrometry of the tympanal membrane, which shows that the displacement of the membrane is significantly increased when the lipid is removed from the auditory system. Neural sensitivity of the system, however, decreased upon removal of the lipid-a surprising result considering that in a typical auditory system both the mechanical and auditory sensitivity are positively correlated. These two results coupled with 3D modelling of the auditory system lead us to hypothesize a model for weta audition, relying strongly on the presence of the lipid channel. This is the first instance of lipids being associated with an auditory system outside of the Odentocete cetaceans, demonstrating convergence for the use of lipids in hearing.

Sectionalizing strategies for minimizing outage durations of critical loads in parallel power system restoration with bi-level programming

Fast restoration of critical loads and non-black-start generators can significantly reduce the economic losses caused by power system blackouts. In a parallel power system restoration scenario, the sectionalization of restoration subsystems plays a very important role in determining the pickup of critical loads before synchronization. Most existing research mainly focuses on the startup of non-black-start generators. The restoration of critical loads, especially the loads with cold load characteristics, has not yet been addressed in optimizing the subsystem divisions. As a result, sectionalized restoration subsystems cannot achieve the best coordination between the pickup of loads and the ramping of generators. In order to generate sectionalizing strategies considering the pickup of critical loads in parallel power system restoration scenarios, an optimization model considering power system constraints, the characteristics of the cold load pickup and the features of generator startup is proposed in this paper. A bi-level programming approach is employed to solve the proposed sectionalizing model. In the upper level the optimal sectionalizing problem for the restoration subsystems is addressed, while in the lower level the objective is to minimize the outage durations of critical loads. The proposed sectionalizing model has been validated by the New-England 39-bus system and the IEEE 118-bus system. Further comparisons with some existing methods are carried out as well.

Identification of bacterial community composition in freshwater aquaculture system farming of Litopenaeus vannamei reveals distinct temperature-driven patterns

Change in temperature is often a major environmental factor in triggering waterborne disease outbreaks. Previous research has revealed temporal and spatial patterns of bacterial population in several aquatic ecosystems. To date, very little information is available on aquaculture environment. Here, we assessed environmental temperature effects on bacterial community composition in freshwater aquaculture system farming of Litopenaeus vannamei (FASFL). Water samples were collected over a one-year period, and aquatic bacteria were characterized by polymerase chain reaction-denaturing gradient gel electrophoresis (PCR-DGGE) and 16S rDNA pyrosequencing. Resulting DGGE fingerprints revealed a specific and dynamic bacterial population structure with considerable variation over the seasonal change, suggesting that environmental temperature was a key driver of bacterial population in the FASFL. Pyrosequencing data further demonstrated substantial difference in bacterial community composition between the water at higher (WHT) and at lower (WLT) temperatures in the FASFL. Actinobacteria, Proteobacteria and Bacteroidetes were the highest abundant phyla in the FASFL, however, a large number of unclassified bacteria contributed the most to the observed variation in phylogenetic diversity. The WHT harbored remarkably higher diversity and richness in bacterial composition at genus and species levels when compared to the WLT. Some potential pathogenenic species were identified in both WHT and WLT, providing data in support of aquatic animal health management in the aquaculture industry.

Simulated systems optimization through response surface techniques [Optimización de sistemas simulados a través de técnicas de superficie de respuesta]

The purpose of this article is to show the applicability and benefits of the techniques of design of experiments as an optimization tool for discrete simulation models. The simulated systems are computational representations of real-life systems; its characteristics include a constant evolution that follows the occurrence of discrete events along the time. In this study, a production system, designed with the business philosophy JIT (Just in Time) is used, which seeks to achieve excellence in organizations through waste reduction in all the operational aspects. The most typical tool of JIT systems is the KANBAN production control that seeks to synchronize demand with flow of materials, minimize work in process, and define production metrics. Using experimental design techniques for stochastic optimization, the impact of the operational factors on the efficiency of the KANBAN / CONWIP simulation model is analyzed. The results show the effectiveness of the integration of experimental design techniques and discrete simulation models in the calculation of the operational parameters. Furthermore, the reliability of the methodologies found was improved with a new statistical consideration.

A robust approach to design a single facility layout plan in dynamic manufacturing environments using a permutation-based genetic algorithm

During the past few decades, developing efficient methods to solve dynamic facility layout problems has been focused on significantly by practitioners and researchers. More specifically meta-heuristic algorithms, especially genetic algorithm, have been proven to be increasingly helpful to generate sub-optimal solutions for large-scale dynamic facility layout problems. Nevertheless, the uncertainty of the manufacturing factors in addition to the scale of the layout problem calls for a mixed genetic algorithm–robust approach that could provide a single unlimited layout design. The present research aims to devise a customized permutation-based robust genetic algorithm in dynamic manufacturing environments that is expected to be generating a unique robust layout for all the manufacturing periods. The numerical outcomes of the proposed robust genetic algorithm indicate significant cost improvements compared to the conventional genetic algorithm methods and a selective number of other heuristic and meta-heuristic techniques.