Sustainable fashion textiles design : value adding through technological enhancement

A key concern in the field of contemporary fashion/textiles design is the emergence of ‘fast fashion’: best explained as "buy it Friday, wear it Saturday and throw it away on Sunday" (O'Loughlin, 2007). In this contemporary retail atmosphere of “pile it high: sell it cheap” and “quick to market”, even designer goods have achieved a throwaway status. This modern culture of consumerism is the antithesis of sustainability and is proving a dilemma surrounding sustainable practice for designers and producers in the disciplines (de Blas, 2010). Design researchers including those in textiles/fashion have begun to explore what is a key question in the 21st century in order to create a vision and reason for their disciplines: Can products be designed to have added value to the consumer and hence contribute to a more sustainable industry? Fashion Textiles Design has much to answer for in contributing to the problems of unsustainable practices on a global scale in design, production and waste. However, designers within this field also have great potential to contribute to practical ‘real world’ solutions. ----- ----- This paper provides an overview of some of the design and technological developments from the fashion/textiles industry, endorsing a model where designers and technicians use their transferrable skills for wellbeing rather than desire. Smart materials in the form of responsive and adaptive fibres and fabrics combined with electro active devices, and ICT are increasingly shaping many aspects of society particularly in the leisure industry and interactive consumer products are ever more visible in healthcare. Combinations of biocompatible delivery devices with bio sensing elements can create analyse, sense and actuate early warning and monitoring systems which can be linked to data logging and patient records via intelligent networks. Patient sympathetic, ‘smart’ fashion/textiles applications based on interdisciplinary expertise utilising textiles design and technology is emerging. An analysis of a series of case studies demonstrates the potential of fashion textiles design practitioners to exploit the concept of value adding through technological garment and textiles applications and enhancement for health and wellbeing and in doing so contribute to a more sustainable future fashion/textiles design industry.

The ecological dynamics of 1v1 sub-phases in association football

This paper analyzes effects of different practice task constraints on heart rate (HR) variability during 4v4 smallsided football games. Participants were sixteen football players divided into two age groups (U13, Mean age: 12.4±0.5 yrs; U15: 14.6±0.5). The task consisted of a 4v4 sub-phase without goalkeepers, on a 25x15 m field, of 15 minutes duration with an active recovery period of 6 minutes between each condition. We recorded players’ heart rates using heart rate monitors (Polar Team System, Polar Electro, Kempele, Finland) as scoring mode was manipulated (line goal: scoring by dribbling past an extended line; double goal: scoring in either of two lateral goals; and central goal: scoring only in one goal). Subsequently, %HR reserve was calculated with the Karvonen formula. We performed a time-series analysis of HR for each individual in each condition. Mean data for intra-participant variability showed that autocorrelation function was associated with more short-range dependence processes in the “line goal” condition, compared to other conditions, demonstrating that the “line goal” constraint induced more randomness in HR response. Relative to inter-individual variability, line goal constraints demonstrated lower %CV and %RMSD (U13: 9% and 19%; U15: 10% and 19%) compared with double goal (U13: 12% and 21%; U15: 12% and 21%) and central goal (U13: 14% and 24%; U15: 13% and 24%) task constraints, respectively. Results suggested that line goal constraints imposed more randomness on cardiovascular stimulation of each individual and lower inter-individual variability than double goal and central goal constraints.

Using Fiber Bragg Grating (FBG) sensors to measure vertical displacements of bridges : a preliminary study

In many bridges, vertical displacements are the most relevant parameter for monitoring in the both short and long term. However, it is difficult to measure vertical displacements of bridges and yet they are among the most important indicators of structural behaviour. Therefore, it prompts a need to develop a simple, inexpensive and yet more practical method to measure vertical displacements of bridges. With the development of fiber-optics technologies, fiber Bragg grating (FBG) sensors have been widely used in structural health monitoring. The advantages of these sensors over the conventional sensors include multiplexing capabilities, high sample rate, small size and electro magnetic interference (EMI) immunity. In this paper, methods of vertical displacement measurements of bridges are first reviewed. Then, FBG technology is briefly introduced including principle, sensing system, characteristics and different types of FBG sensors. Finally, the methodology of vertical displacement measurements using FBG sensors is presented and a trial test is described. It is concluded that using FBG sensors is feasible to measure vertical displacements of bridges. This method can be used to understand global behaviour of bridge‘s span and can further develop for structural health monitoring techniques such as damage detection.

Development of diagnostic and prognostic algorithms from vacuum circuit breaker restrike review and its validation proposal

The CIGRE WGs A3.20 and A3.24 identify the requirements of simulation tools to predict various stresses during the development and operational phases of medium voltage vacuum circuit breaker (VCB) testing. This paper reviews the modelling methodology [13], VCB models and tools to identify future research. It will include the application of the VCB model for the impending failure of a VCB using electro-magnetic-transient-program with diagnostic and prognostic algorithm development. The methodology developed for a VCB degradation model is to modify the dielectric equation to cover a restriking period of more than 1 millimetre.

Hybrid light-emitting diodes based on flexible sheets of mass-produced ZnO nanowires

We report the production of free-standing thin sheets made up of mass-produced ZnO nanowires and the application of these nanowire sheets for the fabrication of ZnO/organic hybrid light-emitting diodes in the manner of assembly. Different p-type organic semiconductors are used to form heterojunctions with the ZnO nanowire film. Electroluminescence measurements of the devices show UV and visible emissions. Identical strong red emission is observed independent of the organic semiconductor materials used in this work. The visible emissions corresponding to the electron transition between defect levels within the energy bandgap of ZnO are discussed.

Fiber Bragg Grating sensors for railway systems

Fiber Bragg grating (FBG) sensor technology has been attracting substantial industrial interests for the last decade. FBG sensors have seen increasing acceptance and widespread use for structural sensing and health monitoring applications in composites, civil engineering, aerospace, marine, oil & gas, and smart structures. One transportation system that has been benefitted tremendously from this technology is railways, where it is of the utmost importance to understand the structural and operating conditions of rails as well as that of freight and passenger service cars to ensure safe and reliable operation. Fiberoptic sensors, mostly in the form of FBGs, offer various important characteristics, such as EMI/RFI immunity, multiplexing capability, and very long-range interrogation (up to 230 km between FBGs and measurement unit), over the conventional electrical sensors for the distinctive operational conditions in railways. FBG sensors are unique from other types of fiber-optic sensors as the measured information is wavelength-encoded, which provides self-referencing and renders their signals less susceptible to intensity fluctuations. In addition, FBGs are reflective sensors that can be interrogated from either end, providing redundancy to FBG sensing networks. These two unique features are particularly important for the railway industry where safe and reliable operations are the major concerns. Furthermore, FBGs are very versatile and transducers based on FBGs can be designed to measure a wide range of parameters such as acceleration and inclination. Consequently, a single interrogator can deal with a large number of FBG sensors to measure a multitude of parameters at different locations that spans over a large area.

Verbal instruction abolishes fear conditioned to racial out-group faces

Previous research has shown resistance to extinction of fear conditioned to racial out-group faces, suggesting that these stimuli may be subject to prepared fear learning. The current study replicated and extended previous research by using a different racial out-group, and testing the prediction that prepared fear learning is unaffected by verbal instructions. Four groups of Caucasian participants were trained with male in-group (Caucasian) or out-group (Chinese) faces as conditional stimuli; one paired with an electro-tactile shock (CS+) and one presented alone (CS). Before extinction, half the participants were instructed that no more shocks would be presented. Fear conditioning, indexed by larger electrodermal responses to, and blink startle modulation during the CS+, occurred during acquisition in all groups. Resistance to extinction of fear learning was found only in the racial out-group, no instruction condition. Fear conditioned to a racial out-group face was reduced following verbal instructions, contrary to predictions for the nature of prepared fear learning.

The relationship between self-reported animal fear and ERP modulation : Evidence for enhanced processing and fear of harmless invertebrates in snake- and spider-fearful individuals

The present study used ERPs to compare processing of fear-relevant (FR) animals (snakes and spiders) and non-fear-relevant (NFR) animals similar in appearance (worms and beetles). EEG was recorded from 18 undergraduate participants (10 females) as they completed two animal-viewing tasks that required simple categorization decisions. Participants were divided on a post hoc basis into low snake/spider fear and high snake/spider fear groups. Overall, FR animals were rated higher on fear and elicited a larger LPC. However, individual differences qualified these effects. Participants in the low fear group showed clear differentiation between FR and NFR animals on subjective ratings of fear and LPC modulation. In contrast, participants in the high fear group did not show such differentiation between FR and NFR animals. These findings suggest that the salience of feared-FR animals may generalize on both a behavioural and electro-cortical level to other animals of similar appearance but of a non-harmful nature.

Concealed substance identification using a defocused inverse spatially offset Raman spectrometer

We report an inverse Spatially Offset Raman Spectrometer capable of non-invasively identifying packaged substances from a distance. Usual inverse SORS spectrometer has a non-contact distance that is equivalent to the focal distance of the collection system. In this work we demonstrate the defocused geometry with a modified data analysis method capable of making inverse SORS measurements from a distance greater than the focal distance of the collection lenses. With the defocused geometry we were able to detect acetaminophen, concealed inside a 2 mm thick plastic bottle, at a non-contact distance of 30 cm.

Intensity pulsations in distributed feedback Yb:Phosphate waveguide lasers

The intensity pulsations of a cw 1030 nm Yb:Phosphate monolithic waveguide laser with distributed feedback are described. We show that the pulsations could result from the coupling of the two orthogonal polarization modes through the two photon process of cooperative luminescence. The predictions of the presented theoretical model agree well with the observed behaviour.

Polarization dependent photorefractive amplitude modulation production in MgO:LiNbO 3 phase modulators

We present experimental and theoretical results of the intensity dependence of residual amplitude modulation (RAM) production in electro-optic phase modulators. By utilizing the anisotropy of the medium, we show that RAM has a photorefractive origin.

Are plasmons responsible for the Raman signal enhancement observed with gold nanoparticle sensors?

The electromagnetic enhancement that occurs in surface enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) substrates containing gold nanoparticles (NPs) is believed to arise through the generation of localised surface plasmons. We present results that show no SERS signals are obtained when 25 nm diameter gold NPs layered quartz substrates exposed to 2-aminopyridine are illuminated with plasmon resonant 532 nm radiation, but SERS signals are observed when the same samples are illuminated with non-resonant 785 nm radiation.