Writing fashion’s future: the gods and monsters of the Anthropocene

This paper identifies two narratives of the Anthropocene and explores how they play out in the realm of future-looking fashion production. Each narrative draws on mythic comparisons to gods and monsters to express humanity’s dilemmas, albeit from different perspectives. The first is a Malthusian narrative of collapse and scarcity, brought about by the monstrous, unstoppable nature of human technology set loose on the natural world. In this vein, philosopher Slavoj Zizek (2010) draws on Biblical analogies, likening ecological crisis to one of the four horsemen of the apocalypse. To find a myth to suit the present times, novelist A.S Byatt (2011) proposes Ragnarök, a Norse myth in which the gods destroy themselves. In contrast, the second narrative is one of technological cornucopia. Stewart Brand (2009, 27), self-described ‘eco-pragmatist’ writes, ‘we are as gods and we have to get good at it’. In his view, human technologies offer the only hope to mitigating the problems caused by human technology – Brand suggests harnessing nuclear power, bioengineering of crops and the geoengineering of the planet as the way forward. Similarly, the French philosopher Bruno Latour (2012, 274), exhorts us to “love our monsters”, likening our technologies to Doctor Frankenstein’s monster – set loose upon the world, and then reviled by his creator. For both Brand and Latour, human technology may be monstrous, but it must also be turned toward solutions. Within this schema, hopeful visions of the future of fashion are similarly divided. In the techno-enabled cornucopian future, the fashion industry embraces wearable technology, speed and efficiency. Technologies such as waterless dyeing, 3D printing and self-cleaning garments shift fashion into a new era of cleaner production. Meanwhile, in the narrative of scarcity, a more cautious approach sees fashion return to a new localism and valuing of the hand-made in a time of shrinking resources. Through discussion of future-looking fashion designers, brands, and activists, this paper explores how they may align along a spectrum to one of these two grand narratives of the future. The paper will discuss how these narratives may unconsciously shape the perspective of both producers and users around the fashion of today and the fashion of tomorrow. This paper poses the question: what stories can be written for fashion’s future in the Anthropocene, and are they fated, or can they be re-written?

The envelope-based cyclic periodogram

Cyclostationary analysis has proven effective in identifying signal components for diagnostic purposes. A key descriptor in this framework is the cyclic power spectrum, traditionally estimated by the averaged cyclic periodogram and the smoothed cyclic periodogram. A lengthy debate about the best estimator finally found a solution in a cornerstone work by Antoni, who proposed a unified form for the two families, thus allowing a detailed statistical study of their properties. Since then, the focus of cyclostationary research has shifted towards algorithms, in terms of computational efficiency and simplicity of implementation. Traditional algorithms have proven computationally inefficient and the sophisticated "cyclostationary" definition of these estimators slowed their spread in the industry. The only attempt to increase the computational efficiency of cyclostationary estimators is represented by the cyclic modulation spectrum. This indicator exploits the relationship between cyclostationarity and envelope analysis. The link with envelope analysis allows a leap in computational efficiency and provides a "way in" for the understanding by industrial engineers. However, the new estimator lies outside the unified form described above and an unbiased version of the indicator has not been proposed. This paper will therefore extend the analysis of envelope-based estimators of the cyclic spectrum, proposing a new approach to include them in the unified form of cyclostationary estimators. This will enable the definition of a new envelope-based algorithm and the detailed analysis of the properties of the cyclic modulation spectrum. The computational efficiency of envelope-based algorithms will be also discussed quantitatively for the first time in comparison with the averaged cyclic periodogram. Finally, the algorithms will be validated with numerical and experimental examples.

Cyclic-oxidation behavior of Ti3SiC2-base material at 1100°c

The cyclic-oxidation behavior of Ti3SiC2-base material was studied at 1100°C in air. Scale spallation and weight loss were not observed in the present tests and the weight gain would just continue if the experiments were not interrupted. The present results demonstrated that the scale growth on Ti3SiC2-base material obeyed a parabolic rate law up to 20 cycles. It then changed to a linear rate with further increasing cycles. The scales formed on the Ti3SiC2base material were composed of an inward-growing, fine-grain mixture of Ti022 + SiO2 and an outward-growing, coarse-grain TiO2. Theoretical calculations show that the mismatch in thermal expansion coefficients between the inner scale and Ti3SiC2-base matrix is small. The outer TiO2 layer was under very low compressive stress, while the inner TiO2 + SiO2 layer was under tensile stress during cooling. Scale spaliation is, therefore, not expected and the scale formed on Ti3SiC2-base material is adherent and resistant to cyclic oxidation.

Improving the selectivity of engineered protease inhibitors: Optimizing the P2 prime residue using a versatile cyclic peptide library

Standard mechanism inhibitors are attractive design templates for engineering reversible serine protease inhibitors. When optimizing interactions between the inhibitor and target protease, many studies focus on the nonprimed segment of the inhibitor's binding loop (encompassing the contact β-strand). However, there are currently few methods for screening residues on the primed segment. Here, we designed a synthetic inhibitor library (based on sunflower trypsin inhibitor-1) for characterizing the P2′ specificity of various serine proteases. Screening the library against 13 different proteases revealed unique P2′ preferences for trypsin, chymotrypsin, matriptase, plasmin, thrombin, four kallikrein-related peptidases, and several clotting factors. Using this information to modify existing engineered inhibitors yielded new variants that showed considerably improved selectivity, reaching up to 7000-fold selectivity over certain off-target proteases. Our study demonstrates the importance of the P2′ residue in standard mechanism inhibition and unveils a new approach for screening P2′ substitutions that will benefit future inhibitor engineering studies.

Characterisation of head-hardened rail steel in terms of cyclic plasticity response and microstructure for improved material modelling

Stress- and strain-controlled tests of heat treated high-strength rail steel (Australian Standard AS1085.1) have been performed in order to improve the characterisation of the said material׳s ratcheting and fatigue wear behaviour. The hardness of the rail head material has also been studied and it has been found that hardness reduces considerably below four-millimetres from the rail top surface. Historically, researchers have used test coupons with circular cross-sections to conduct cyclic load tests. Such test coupons, typically five-millimetres in gauge diameter and ten‐millimetres in grip diameter, are usually taken from the rail head sample. When there is considerable variation of material properties over the cross-section it becomes likely that localised properties of the rail material will be missed. In another case from the literature, disks 47 mm in diameter for a twin-disk rolling contact test machine were obtained directly from the rail sample and used to validate ratcheting and rolling contact fatigue wear models. The question arises: How accurate are such tests, especially when large material property gradients exist? In this research paper, the effects of rail sampling location on the ratcheting behaviour of AS1085.1 rail steel were investigated using rectangular-shaped specimens obtained at four different depths to observe their respective cyclic plasticity behaviour. The microstructural features of the test coupons were also analysed, especially the pearlite inter-lamellar spacing which showed strong correlation with both hardness and cyclic plasticity behaviour of the material. This work ultimately provides new data and testing methodology to aid the selection of valid parameters for material constitutive models to better understand rail surface ratcheting and wear.

New dimeric supramolecular structure of mixed (phthalocyaninato)(porphyrinato)-europium(III) sandwiches : preparation and spectroscopic characteristics

The mixed double-decker Eu\[Pc(15C5)4](TPP) (1) was obtained by base-catalysed tetramerisation of 4,5-dicyanobenzo-15-crown-5 using the half-sandwich complex Eu(TPP)(acac) (acac = acetylacetonate), generated in situ, as the template. For comparative studies, the mixed triple-decker complexes Eu2\[Pc(15C5)4](TPP)2 (2) and Eu2\[Pc(15C5)4]2(TPP) (3) were also synthesised by the raise-by-one-story method. These mixed ring sandwich complexes were characterised by various spectroscopic methods. Up to four one-electron oxidations and two one-electron reductions were revealed by cyclic voltammetry (CV) and differential pulse voltammetry (DPV). As shown by electronic absorption and infrared spectroscopy, supramolecular dimers (SM1 and SM3) were formed from the corresponding double-decker 1 and triple-decker 3 in the presence of potassium ions in MeOH/CHCl3.

Electrochemistry of Heteroleptic Tris(phthalocyaninato) Rare Earth(III) Complexes

The electrochemical characteristics of a series of heteroleptic tris(phthalocyaninato) complexes with identical rare earths or mixed rare earths (Pc)M(OOPc)M(OOPc) [M = Eu...Lu, Y; H2Pc = unsubstituted phthalocyanine, H2(OOPc) = 3,4,12,13,21,22,30,31-octakis(octyloxy)phthalocyanine] and (Pc)Eu(OOPc)Er(OOPc) have been recorded and studied comparatively by cyclic voltammetry (CV) and differential pulse voltammetry (DPV) in CH2Cl2 containing 0.1 M tetrabutylammonium perchlorate (TBAP). Up to five quasi-reversible one-electron oxidations and four one-electron reductions have been revealed. The half-wave potentials of the first, second and fifth oxidations depend on the size of the metal center, but the fifth changes in the opposite direction to that of the first two. Moreover, the difference in redox potentials of the first oxidation and first reduction for (Pc)M(OOPc)M(OOPc), 0.85−0.98 V, also decreases linearly along with decreasing rare earth ion radius, clearly showing the rare earth ion size effect and indicating enhanced π−π interactions in the triple-deckers connected by smaller lanthanides. This order follows the red-shift seen in the lowest energy band of triple-decker compounds. The electronic differences between the lanthanides and yttrium are more apparent for triple-decker sandwich complexes than for the analogous double-deckers. By comparing triple-decker, double-decker and mononuclear [ZnII] complexes containing the OOPc ligand, the HOMO−LUMO gap has been shown to contract approximately linearly with the number of stacked phthalocyanine ligands.

Comparative Electrochemical Study of Unsubstituted and Substituted Bis(phthalocyaninato) Rare Earth(III) Complexes

The electrochemistry of homoleptic substituted phthalocyaninato rare earth double-decker complexes M(TBPc)2 and M(OOPc)2 [M = Y, La...Lu except Pm; H2TBPc = 3(4),12(13),21(22),30(31)-tetra-tert-butylphthalocyanine, H2OOPc = 3,4,12,13,21,22,30,31-octakis(octyloxy)phthalocyanine] has been comparatively studied by cyclic voltammetry (CV) and differential pulse voltammetry (DPV) in CH2Cl2 containing 0.1 M tetra-n-butylammonium perchlorate (TBAP). Two quasi-reversible one-electron oxidations and three or four quasi-reversible one-electron reductions have been revealed for these neutral double-deckers of two series of substituted complexes, respectively. For comparison, unsubstituted bis(phthalocyaninato) rare earth analogues M(Pc)2 (M = Y, La...Lu except Pm; H2Pc = phthalocyanine) have also been electrochemically investigated. Two quasi-reversible one-electron oxidations and up to five quasi-reversible one-electron reductions have been revealed for these neutral double-decker compounds. The three bis(phthalocyaninato)cerium compounds display one cerium-centered redox wave between the first ligand-based oxidation and reduction. The half-wave potentials of the first and second oxidations and first reduction for double-deckers of the tervalent rare earths depend on the size of the metal center. The difference between the redox potentials of the second and third reductions for MIII(Pc)2, which represents the potential difference between the first oxidation and first reduction of [MIII(Pc)2]−, lies in the range 1.08−1.37 V and also gradually diminishes along with the lanthanide contraction, indicating enhanced π−π interactions in the double-deckers connected by the smaller, lanthanides. This corresponds well with the red-shift of the lowest energy band observed in the electronic absorption spectra of reduced double-decker [MIII(Pc′)2]− (Pc′ = Pc, TBPc, OOPc).

The synthesis and application of novel profluorescent nitroxides as probes for polymer degradation

This PhD project has expanded the knowledge in the area of profluorescent nitroxides with regard to the synthesis and characterisations of novel profluorescent nitroxide probes as well as physical characterisation of the probe molecules in various polymer/physical environments. The synthesis of the first example of an azaphenalene-based fused aromatic nitroxide TMAO, [1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-2,3-dihydro-2-azaphenalen-2-yloxyl, was described. This novel nitroxide possesses some of the structural rigidity of the isoindoline class of nitroxides, as well as some properties akin to TEMPO nitroxides. Additionally, the integral aromatic ring imparts fluorescence that is switched on by radical scavenging reactions of the nitroxide, which makes it a sensitive probe for polymer degradation. In addition to the parent TMAO, 5 other azaphenalene derivatives were successfully synthesised. This new class of nitroxide was expected to have interesting redox properties when the structure was investigated by high-level ab initio molecular orbitals theory. This was expected to have implications with biological relevance as the calculated redox potentials for the azaphenalene ring class would make them potent antioxidant compounds. The redox potentials of 25 cyclic nitroxides from four different structural classes (pyrroline, piperidine, isoindoline and azaphenalene) were determined by cyclic voltammetry in acetonitrile. It was shown that potentials related to the one electron processes of the nitroxide were influenced by the type of ring system, ring substituents or groups surrounding the moiety. Favourable comparisons were found between theoretical and experimental potentials for pyrroline, piperidine and isoindoline ring classes. Substitution of these ring classes, were correctly calculated to have a small yet predictable effect on the potentials. The redox potentials of the azaphenalene ring class were underestimated by the calculations in all cases by at least a factor of two. This is believed to be due to another process influencing the redox potentials of the azaphenalene ring class which is not taken into account by the theoretical model. It was also possible to demonstrate the use of both azaphenalene and isoindoline nitroxides as additives for monitoring radical mediated damage that occurs in polypropylene as well as in more commercially relevant polyester resins. Polymer sample doped with nitroxide were exposed to both thermo-and photo-oxidative conditions with all nitroxides showing a protective effect. It was found that isoindoline nitroxides were able to indicate radical formation in polypropylene aged at elevated temperatures via fluorescence build-up. The azaphenalene nitroxide TMAO showed no such build-up of fluorescence. This was believed to be due to the more labile bond between the nitroxide and macromolecule and the protection may occur through a classical Denisov cycle, as is expected for commercially available HAS units. Finally, A new profluorescent dinitroxide, BTMIOA (9,10-bis(1,1,3,3- tetramethylisoindolin-2-yloxyl-5-yl)anthracene), was synthesised and shown to be a powerful probe for detecting changes during the initial stages of thermo-oxidative degradation of polypropylene. This probe, which contains a 9,10-diphenylanthracene core linked to two nitroxides, possesses strongly suppressed fluorescence due to quenching by the two nitroxide groups. This molecule also showed the greatest protective effect on thermo-oxidativly aged polypropylene. Most importantly, BTMIOA was found to be a valuable tool for imaging and mapping free-radical generation in polypropylene using fluorescence microscopy.

Opportunities for enhancing the Australian national road safety strategy

With the current National Road Safety Strategy [1] coming to the end of its term, it is timely to consider ways in which the next iteration of this strategy can be enhanced. Strategic planning should be a cyclic process in which learning and adaptation are just as important as planning and implementation. It will always be the case that some actions are not as effective as expected, or that barriers to effective implementation will emerge. Rather than being setbacks, these are opportunities for learning about the validity of our assumptions. They are also opportunities for us to adapt to meet unanticipated or emerging challenges. One of the positive aspects of the implementation of the first and second National Road Safety Strategies has been the willingness of road safety agencies to critically assess progress and to identify where and how actions would be better focused. This has been reflected in the evolving nature of the periodic National Road Safety Action Plans. As the decade of the current Strategy reaches an end, there is a need to take this process further, and undertake a thorough critical evaluation of the Strategy development and implementation. While not an attempt to be exhaustive, the following article will identify some key priorities for consideration as part of this process.

Best Practice Guide : Generic Overview

The construction industry is a key national economic component. It tends to be at the forefront of cyclic changes in the Australian economy. It has a significant impact, both directly and indirectly, on the efficiency and productivity of other industries. Moreover it affects everyone to a greater or lesser extent; through its products whether they are manifested in the physical infrastructure that supports the operation of the economy or through the built environment that directly impacts on the quality of life experienced by individuals. In financial terms the industry makes one of the largest contributions to the Australian economy, accounting for 4.7 per cent of GDP 1 which was worth over $30B in 20012. The construction industry is comprised of a myriad of small firms, across several important sectors including, o Residential building, o Commercial building, o Building services, o Engineering, o Infrastructure o Facilities Management o Property Development Each sector is typified by firms that have distinctive characteristics such as the number of employees, size and value of contracts, number of jobs, and so forth. It tends to be the case that firms operating in commercial building are larger than those involved in residential construction. The largest contractors are found in engineering and infrastructure, as well as in the commercial building sub-sectors. However all sectors are characterised by their reliance upon sub-contractors to carry out on-site operations. Professionals from the various design consultant groups operate across all of these sectors. This description masks one of the most significant underlying causes of inefficiency in the construction industry, namely its fragmentation. The Construction Industry chapter of the 2004 Australian Year Book3, published by the Australian Bureau of Statistics unmasks the industry’s fragmented structure, typified by the large number of operating businesses within it, the vast majority of which are small companies employing less than 5 people. It identifies over 190,000 firms, of which over 90 percent employ less than 5 people. At the other end of the spectrum, firms employing 20 or more people account for fractionally more than one percent of businesses in the industry.

8-Ammonionaphthalene-2-sulfonate monohydrate : the zwitterionic hydrate of 1,7-Cleve's acid

The structure of 8-amino-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid monohydrate (1,7-Cleve's acid hydrate), C10H9NO3S.H2O, shows the presence of a sulfonate-aminium group zwitterion, both groups and the water molecule of solvation giving cyclic R3/3(8) intermolecular hydrogen-bonding interactions forming chains which extend down a axis of the unit cell. Additional peripheral associations, including weak aromatic ring pi-pi interactions [centroid-centroid distance 3.6299(15)A], result in a two-dimensional sheet structure.

Zero- one- and two-dimensional hydrogen-bonded structures in the 1:1 proton-transfer compounds of 4,5-dichlorophthalic acid with the monocyclic heteroaromatic Lewis bases 2-aminopyrimidine, nicotinamide and isonicotinamide

The structures of the anhydrous 1:1 proton-transfer compounds of 4,5-dichlorophthalic acid (DCPA) with the monocyclic heteroaromatic Lewis bases 2-aminopyrimidine, 3-(aminocarboxy) pyridine (nicotinamide) and 4-(aminocarbonyl) pyridine (isonicotinamide), namely 2-aminopyrimidinium 2-carboxy-4,5-dichlorobenzoate C4H6N3+ C8H3Cl2O4- (I), 3-(aminocarbonyl) pyridinium 2-carboxy-4,5-dichlorobenzoate C6H7N2O+ C8H3Cl2O4- (II) and the unusual salt adduct 4-(aminocarbonyl) pyridinium 2-carboxy-4,5-dichlorobenzoate 2-carboxymethyl-4,5-dichlorobenzoic acid (1/1/1) C6H7N2O+ C8H3Cl2O4-.C9H6Cl2O4 (III) have been determined at 130 K. Compound (I) forms discrete centrosymmetric hydrogen-bonded cyclic bis(cation--anion) units having both R2/2(8) and R2/1(4) N-H...O interactions. In compound (II) the primary N-H...O linked cation--anion units are extended into a two-dimensional sheet structure via amide-carboxyl and amide-carbonyl N-H...O interactions. The structure of (III) reveals the presence of an unusual and unexpected self-synthesized methyl monoester of the acid as an adduct molecule giving one-dimensional hydrogen-bonded chains. In all three structures the hydrogen phthalate anions are

Proton-transfer versus nontransfer in compounds of the diazo-dye precursor 4-(phenyldiazenyl) aniline (aniline yellow) with strong organic acids: the 5-sulfosalicylate and the dichroic benzenesulfonate salts, and the 1:2 adduct with 3,5-dinitrobenzoic

The structures of two 1:1 proton-transfer red-black dye compounds formed by reaction of aniline yellow [4-(phenyldiazenyl)aniline] with 5-sulfosalicylic acid and benzenesulfonic acid, and a 1:2 nontransfer adduct compound with 3,5-dinitrobenzoic acid have been determined at either 130 or 200 K. The compounds are 2-(4-aminophenyl)-1-phenylhydrazin-1-ium 3-carboxy-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonate methanol solvate, C12H12N3+.C7H5O6S-.CH3OH (I), 2-(4-aminophenyl)-1-hydrazin-1-ium 4-(phenydiazinyl)anilinium bis(benzenesulfonate), 2C12H12N3+.2C6H5O3S-, (II) and 4-(phenyldiazenyl)aniline-3,5-dinitrobenzoic acid (1/2) C12H11N3.2C~7~H~4~N~2~O~6~, (III). In compound (I) the diaxenyl rather than the aniline group of aniline yellow is protonated and this group subsequently akes part in a primary hydrogen-bonding interaction with a sulfonate O-atom acceptor, producing overall a three-dimensional framework structure. A feature of the hydrogen bonding in (I) is a peripheral edge-on cation-anion association involving aromatic C--H...O hydrogen bonds, giving a conjoint R1/2(6)R1/2(7)R2/1(4)motif. In the dichroic crystals of (II), one of the two aniline yellow species in the asymmetric unit is diazenyl-group protonated while in the other the aniline group is protonated. Both of these groups form hydrogen bonds with sulfonate O-atom acceptors and thee, together with other associations give a one-dimensional chain structure. In compound (III), rather than proton-transfer, there is a preferential formation of a classic R2/2(8) cyclic head-to-head hydrogen-bonded carboxylic acid homodimer between the two 3,5-dinitrobenzoic acid molecules, which in association with the aniline yellow molecule that is disordered across a crystallographic inversion centre, result in an overall two-dimensional ribbon structure. This work has shown the correlation between structure and observed colour in crystalline aniline yellow compounds, illustrated graphically in the dichroic benzenesulfonate compound.

Spectrometric and voltammetric studies of the interaction between quercetin and bovine serum albumin using warfarin as site marker with the aid of chemometrics

The interaction of quercetin, which is a bioflavonoid, with bovine serum albumin (BSA) was investigated under pseudo-physiological conditions by the application of UV–vis spectrometry, spectrofluorimetry and cyclic voltammetry (CV). These studies indicated a cooperative interaction between the quercetin–BSA complex and warfarin, which produced a ternary complex, quercetin–BSA–warfarin. It was found that both quercetin and warfarin were located in site I. However, the spectra of these three components overlapped and the chemometrics method – multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) was applied to resolve the spectra. The resolved spectra of quercetin–BSA and warfarin agreed well with their measured spectra, and importantly, the spectrum of the quercetin–BSA–warfarin complex was extracted. These results allowed the rationalization of the behaviour of the overlapping spectra. At lower concentrations ([warfarin] < 1 × 10−5 mol L−1), most of the site marker reacted with the quercetin–BSA, but free warfarin was present at higher concentrations. Interestingly, the ratio between quercetin–BSA and warfarin was found to be 1:2, suggesting a quercetin–BSA–(warfarin)2 complex, and the estimated equilibrium constant was 1.4 × 1011 M−2. The results suggest that at low concentrations, warfarin binds at the high-affinity sites (HAS), while low-affinity binding sites (LAS) are occupied at higher concentrations.