Sustainable fashion textiles design : value adding through technological enhancement

A key concern in the field of contemporary fashion/textiles design is the emergence of ‘fast fashion’: best explained as "buy it Friday, wear it Saturday and throw it away on Sunday" (O'Loughlin, 2007). In this contemporary retail atmosphere of “pile it high: sell it cheap” and “quick to market”, even designer goods have achieved a throwaway status. This modern culture of consumerism is the antithesis of sustainability and is proving a dilemma surrounding sustainable practice for designers and producers in the disciplines (de Blas, 2010). Design researchers including those in textiles/fashion have begun to explore what is a key question in the 21st century in order to create a vision and reason for their disciplines: Can products be designed to have added value to the consumer and hence contribute to a more sustainable industry? Fashion Textiles Design has much to answer for in contributing to the problems of unsustainable practices on a global scale in design, production and waste. However, designers within this field also have great potential to contribute to practical ‘real world’ solutions. ----- ----- This paper provides an overview of some of the design and technological developments from the fashion/textiles industry, endorsing a model where designers and technicians use their transferrable skills for wellbeing rather than desire. Smart materials in the form of responsive and adaptive fibres and fabrics combined with electro active devices, and ICT are increasingly shaping many aspects of society particularly in the leisure industry and interactive consumer products are ever more visible in healthcare. Combinations of biocompatible delivery devices with bio sensing elements can create analyse, sense and actuate early warning and monitoring systems which can be linked to data logging and patient records via intelligent networks. Patient sympathetic, ‘smart’ fashion/textiles applications based on interdisciplinary expertise utilising textiles design and technology is emerging. An analysis of a series of case studies demonstrates the potential of fashion textiles design practitioners to exploit the concept of value adding through technological garment and textiles applications and enhancement for health and wellbeing and in doing so contribute to a more sustainable future fashion/textiles design industry.

CCi Submission to ALRC Copyright Inquiry

The attached report was prepared by Professor Terry Flew, Dr. Nicolas Suzor and Dr. Bonnie Liu of the Queensland University of Technology.   It was developed in consultation with Professor Stuart Cunningham, Professor Anne Fitzgerald, Associate Professor Axel Bruns, Associate Professor Jean Burgess (QUT), Professor Julian Thomas (Swinburne University of Technology), Professor Christoph Antons (Deakin University), and film producer Ms. Cathy Henkel (Virgo Productions and Adjunct Professor, QUT).

Open source [Editorial]

This special issue of the Journal of Music, Technology & Education is intended to examine ‘open source’ practices in software development and philosophical ideas as they might apply to music education. Through six different articles, the issue seeks to examine ideas on a continuum from notions of communal creativity in the shared development of ideas and systems to examining how open source technologies can be utilized within the context of music education. The idea for this special issue grew from a symposium on the same topic at the 2011 International Conference for Research in Music Education (RIME) held biennially at the University of Exeter where the editors for this edition first met. The need to continue the discussion of the issues raised at that symposium was recognized, and the editors of JMTE graciously agreed to our preparation of this special issue.

Replicating satellite RNA induces sequence-specific DNA methylation and truncated transcripts in plants

Tobacco plants were transformed with a chimeric transgene comprising sequences encoding β-glucuronidase (GUS) and the satellite RNA (satRNA) of cereal yellow dwarf luteovirus. When transgenic plants were infected with potato leafroll luteovirus (PLRV), which replicated the transgene-derived satRNA to a high level, the satellite sequence of the GUS:Sat transgene became densely methylated. Within the satellite region, all 86 cytosines in the upper strand and 73 of the 75 cytosines in the lower strand were either partially or fully methylated. In contrast, very low levels of DNA methylation were detected in the satellite sequence of the transgene in uninfected plants and in the flanking nonsatellite sequences in both infected and uninfected plants. Substantial amounts of truncated GUS:Sat RNA accumulated in the satRNA-replicating plants, and most of the molecules terminated at nucleotides within the first 60 bp of the satellite sequence. Whereas this RNA truncation was associated with high levels of satRNA replication, it appeared to be independent of the levels of DNA methylation in the satellite sequence, suggesting that it is not caused by methylation. All the sequenced GUS:Sat DNA molecules were hypermethylated in plants with replicating satRNA despite the phloem restriction of the helper PLRV. Also, small, sense and antisense ∼22 nt RNAs, derived from the satRNA, were associated with the replicating satellite. These results suggest that the sequence-specific DNA methylation spread into cells in which no satRNA replication occurred and that this was mediated by the spread of unamplified satRNA and/or its associated 22 nt RNA molecules.

A nation’s role in addressing base erosion and profit shifting : balancing sovereignty with international collaboration and coordination

The notion of sovereignty is central to any international tax issue. While a nation is free to design its tax laws as it sees fit and raise revenue in accordance with the needs of its citizens, it is not possible to undertake such a task in isolation. In a world of cross-border investments and business transactions, all tax regimes impact on one another. Tax interactions between sovereign states cannot be avoided. Ultimately, the interactions mean that a nation must decide whether to engage in both collaboration and coordination with other nations and supranational bodies alike or maintain an individualised stance in relation to its tax policy. Whatever the decision, there is arguably an exercise in national sovereignty in some form. In the context of an international tax regime, whether that regime is interpreted broadly as meaning international norms generally adopted by nations around the world or domestic regimes legislating for cross-border transactions, rhetoric around national fiscal sovereignty takes on many different forms. At one end of the spectrum it is relied upon by financial secrecy jurisdictions (tax havens) as a defence to their position on the basis that ‘other’ nations cannot interfere with the fiscal sovereignty of a jurisdiction. At the other end of the spectrum, it is argued that profit shifting and international tax avoidance if not stopped is, in and of itself, a threat to a nation’s fiscal sovereignty on the basis that it threatens the ability to tax and raise the revenue needed. This paper considers a modern conceptualisation of sovereignty along with its role within international tax coordination and collaboration to argue that a move towards a more unified approach to addressing international base erosion and profit shifting may be the ultimate exercise of national fiscal sovereignty. By using the current transfer pricing regime as a case study, this paper posits that it is not merely enough to have international agreement on allocation rules to be applied, but that the ultimate exercise of national sovereignty is political agreement with other states to ensure that it is governments which determine the allocational basis of worldwide profits to be taxed. In doing so, it is demonstrated that the arm’s length pricing requirement of the current transfer pricing regime, rather than providing governments with the ability to determine the location of profits, is providing multinational entities with the ultimate power to determine that location. If left unchecked, this will eventually erode a nation’s ability to capture the required tax revenue and, as a consequence, may be deemed a failure by nation states to exercise their fiscal sovereignty.

Wearable neuroimaging and emotion : investigating emotional responses to architectural environments with functional near-infrared spectroscopy (fNIRS)

Supported by contemporary theories of architectural aesthetics and neuro-aesthetics this paper presents a case for the use of portable fNIRS imaging in the assessment of emotional responses to spatial environments experienced by both blind and sighted. The aim of the paper is to outline the implications of fNIRS for spatial research and practice within the field of architecture, thereby suggesting a potential taxonomy of particular formations of space and affect. Empirical neurological study of affect and spatial experience from an architectural design perspective remains in many instances unchartered. Clinical research using the portable non-invasive neuro-imaging device, functional near infrared spectroscopy (fNIRS) is proving convincing in its ability to detect emotional responses to visual, spatio-auditory and task based stimuli, providing a firm basis to potentially track cortical activity in the appraisal of architectural environments. Additionally, recent neurological studies have sought to explore the manifold sensory abilities of the visually impaired to better understand spatial perception in general. Key studies reveal that early blind participants perform as well as sighted due to higher auditory and somato-sensory spatial acuity. For instance, face vision enables the visually impaired to detect environments through skin pressure, enabling at times an instantaneous impression of the layout of an unfamiliar environment. Studies also report pleasant and unpleasant emotional responses such as ‘weightedness’ or ‘claustrophobia’ within certain interior environments, revealing a deeper perceptual sensitivity then would be expected. We conclude with justification that comparative fNIRS studies between the sighted and blind concerning spatial experience have the potential to provide greater understanding of emotional responses to architectural environments.

PTHR1 polymorphisms influence BMD variation through effects on the growing skeleton

We investigated whether polymorphisms in PTHR1 are associated with bone mineral density (BMD), to determine whether the association of this gene with BMD was due to effects on attainment of peak bone mass or effects on subsequent bone loss. The PTHR1 gene, including its 14 exons, their exon-intron boundaries, and 1,500 bp of its promoter region, was screened for polymorphisms by denaturing high-performance liquid chromatography (dHPLC) and sequencing in 36 osteoporotic cases. Eleven single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs), one tetranucleotide repeat, and one tetranucleotide deletion were identified. A cohort of 634 families, including 1,236 men (39%) and 1,926 women (61%) ascertained with probands with low BMD (Z< -2.0) and the Children in Focus subset of the Avon Longitudinal Study of Parents and Children (ALSPAC) cohort (785 unrelated individuals, mean age 118 months), were genotyped for the five most informative SNPs (minor allele frequency >5%) and the tetranucleotide repeat. In our osteoporosis families, association was noted between lumbar spine BMD and alleles of a known functional tetranucleotide repeat (U4) in the PTHR1 promoter region (P = 0.042) and between two and three marker haplotypes of PTHR1 polymorphisms with lumbar spine, femoral neck, and total hip BMD (P = 0.021-0.047). This association was restricted to the youngest tertile of the population (age 16-39 years, P = 0.013-0.048). A similar association was found for the ALSPAC cohort: two marker haplotypes of SNPs A48609T and C52813T were associated with height (P = 0.006) and total body less head BMD (P = 0.02), corrected for age and gender, confirming the family findings. These findings suggest a role for PTHR1 variation in determining peak BMD.

An N-ethyl-n-nitrosourea induced corticotropin-releasing hormone promoter mutation provides a mouse model for endogenous glucocorticoid excess

Cushing's syndrome, which is characterized by excessive circulating glucocorticoid concentrations, maybe due to ACTH-dependent or -independent causes that include anterior pituitary and adrenal cortical tumors, respectively. ACTH secretion is stimulated by CRH, and we report a mouse model for Cushing's syndrome due to an N-ethyl-N-nitrosourea (ENU) induced Crh mutation at -120 bp of the promoter region, which significantly increased luciferase reporter activity and was thus a gain-of-function mutation. Crh -120/+ mice, when compared with wild-type littermates, had obesity, muscle wasting, thin skin, hair loss, and elevated plasma and urinary concentrations of corticosterone. In addition, Crh-120/+ mice had hyperglycemia, hyperfructosaminemia, hyperinsulinemia, hypercholesterolemia, hypertriglyceridemia, and hyperleptinemia but normal adiponectin. Crh -120/+ mice also had low bone mineral density, hypercalcemia, hypercalciuria, and decreased concentrations of plasma PTH and osteocalcin. Bone histomorphometry revealed Crh-120/+ mice to have significant reductions in mineralizing surface area, mineral apposition, bone formation rates, osteoblast number, and the percentage of corticoendosteal bone covered by osteoblasts, which was accompanied by an increase in adipocytes in the bone marrow. Thus, a mouse model for Cushing's syndrome has been established, and this will help in further elucidating the pathophysiological effects of glucocorticoid excess and in evaluating treatments for corticosteroid-induced osteoporosis.

Josh lovegrove: Infinite

Research background: Infinite by Josh Lovegrove is an extended play album co-produced in collaboration with ARIA-nominated artist Mark Sholtez. The album consists of original songs written by Lovegrove, and songs co-written by Lovegrove, Carfoot and Sholtez. The scholarly context of the project is informed by studies of songwriting and ambiguity by Negus and Astor, new approaches to the study of record production associated with Zagorski-Thomas, and studies of creative labour by Hesmondhalgh and Baker. The project focused on the dynamics of musical performance and production in the recording studio, investigating the interface between the creative tasks of songwriting, production and performance in the recording of popular music. The project asked, in what ways do collaborative songwriting and production processes overlap, how has the nature of creative labour changed as a result of new forms of digital recording technology, and how can these aspects inform developments in the learning and teaching of popular music? Research contribution: The project has demonstrated the nuanced ways that the practices of record production have changed in the face of technological developments, and how this has impacted upon the specific forms and divisions of creative labour. Research significance: The project resulted in a well-reviewed album release that has further established Lovegrove’s reputation as a performer and songwriter. The creative work underpins ongoing research into the nature of popular music production, in particular how the nature of collaborative songwriting can inform innovation in the learning and teaching of popular music.

Salamanca Castanets

The English country dance The Salamanca Castanets was published in Button and Whittaker’s Collection of Country Dances for the Year 1813. It is a captivating tune which utilises country dance figures whilst capturing and maintaining the Spanish exuberance. Its fascinating history still resonates in Tasmania.

Conservation genetics of the water mouse, Xeromys myoides Thomas, 1889

The water mouse, Xeromys myoides, is currently recognised as a vulnerable species in Australia, inhabiting a small number of distinct and isolated coastal regions of Queensland and the Northern Territory. An examination of the evolutionary history and contemporary influences shaping the genetic structure of this species is required to make informed conservation management decisions. Here, we report the first analysis undertaken on the phylogeography and population genetics of the water mouse across its mainland Australian distribution. Genetic diversity was assessed at two mitochondrial DNA (Cytochrome b, 1000 bp; D-loop, 400 bp) and eight microsatellite DNA loci. Very low genetic diversity was found, indicating that water mice underwent a recent expansion throughout their Australian range and constitute a single evolutionarily significant unit. Microsatellite analyses revealed that the highest genetic diversity was found in the Mackay region of central Queensland; population substructure was also identified, suggesting that local populations may be isolated in this region. Conversely, genetic diversity in the Coomera region of south-east Queensland was very low and the population in this region has experienced a significant genetic bottleneck. These results have significant implications for future management, particularly in terms of augmenting populations through translocations or reintroducing water mice in areas where they have gone extinct.

A study of Chinese private passenger cars based on BP neural network

This study employs BP neural network to simulate the development of Chinese private passenger cars. Considering the uncertain and complex environment for the development of private passenger cars, indicators of economy, population, price, infrastructure, income, energy and some other fields which have major impacts on it are selected at first. The network is proved to be operable to simulate the progress of chinese private passenger cars after modeling, training and generalization test. Based on the BP neural network model, sensitivity analysis of each indicator is carried on and shows that the sensitivity coefficients of fuel price change suddenly. This special phenomenon reveals that the development of Chinese private passenger cars may be seriously affected by the recent high fuel price. This finding is also consistent with facts and figures

The Exeter Hip. 40 Years of Innovation in Total Hip Arthroplasty

* Propoerties and use of acrylic cement * Design and biomechaniscs of a cemented hip replacement * The science of loosening, lysis and wear * Preparation of patients for surgery * Potential complications and their avoidance * Modern primary surgical techniques and new developments * Complex primary hip replacement and specialist techniques * Outcomes of cemented hip replacement * Principles of revision hip replacement * Basic science of bone grafting in revision surgery * Femoral acetabular impaction bone grafting techniques * Results of revision with bone graft and cement

Thomas Young's contribution to visual optics : the Bakerian lecture "On the mechanism of the eye"

Thomas Young (1773-1829) carried out major pioneering work in many different subjects. In 1800 he gave the Bakerian Lecture of the Royal Society on the topic of the “mechanism of the eye”: this was published in the following year (Young, 1801). Young used his own design of optometer to measure refraction and accommodation, and discovered his own astigmatism. He considered the different possible origins of accommodation and confirmed that it was due to change in shape of the lens rather than to change in shape of the cornea or an increase in axial length. However, the paper also dealt with many other aspects of visual and ophthalmic optics, such as biometric parameters, peripheral refraction, longitudinal chromatic aberration, depth-of-focus and instrument myopia. These aspects of the paper have previously received little attention. We now give detailed consideration to these and other less-familiar features of Young’s work and conclude that his studies remain relevant to many of the topics which currently engage visual scientists.