Ethical fashion : the human stories driving a fashion movement

This paper examines and compares two stories, the novel Helen Fleetwood (Elizabeth, 1841) and the film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), in relation to the Ethical Fashion movement. In 2005, more than 50 designers from around the world took part in The Ethical Fashion Show in Paris. This movement dictates that designers ensure that their garments are produced in an ethical manner, rather than support the ‘sweatshop’ environments of some industrialists determined to make a profit at the expense of workers rights. The momentum of the Ethical Fashion movement suggests that it is possible for fashion to be ethical, desirable and profitable in the 21st century. In 1841, after extensive research, Charlotte Elizabeth Tonna (using the pseudonym Charlotte Elizabeth) began to write about the atrocities of the factory system in industrialised England. Her novel, Helen Fleetwood, is one of the earliest examples of this kind of work, providing the reader with an extensive insight into the life of English factory workers in the mid-19th century. The story is about the Widow Green and her orphan dependents who are led, through circumstance, to leave their rural home and take up employment in the cotton mills of Manchester, with the hope of having an independent existence. Instead they discover the realities of factory life – extremely long hours, unsafe conditions, poor wages and a steady decline into extreme poverty. In his film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), director Micha X. Peled tells an alarmingly similar tale set in 21st century China. This ‘docu-drama’ (a recreation from actual interviews and diary entries) tells the story of ‘Little Jasmine’ who leaves her family’s farm to pursue an independent life in Southern China’s manufacturing district. It is not long before the realities of modern factory life are revealed to the teenage ‘heroine’ – crowded dormitories, long working hours, arbitrary fines and wages that do not compare with those of workers in the Western world. While much of the human story remains unchanged, there have been significant improvements in technology and safety in the last 165 years that result in the reality that not all clothing manufacture is performed in ‘sweatshop’ conditions. After a recent visit to a manufacturing plant in China, consultation with peers in the industry and having worked in the Australian fashion industry for many years, the author compares these stories with her own experiences.

Hierarchical Bayesian models for estimating the extent of plant pest invasions

Plant biosecurity requires statistical tools to interpret field surveillance data in order to manage pest incursions that threaten crop production and trade. Ultimately, management decisions need to be based on the probability that an area is infested or free of a pest. Current informal approaches to delimiting pest extent rely upon expert ecological interpretation of presence / absence data over space and time. Hierarchical Bayesian models provide a cohesive statistical framework that can formally integrate the available information on both pest ecology and data. The overarching method involves constructing an observation model for the surveillance data, conditional on the hidden extent of the pest and uncertain detection sensitivity. The extent of the pest is then modelled as a dynamic invasion process that includes uncertainty in ecological parameters. Modelling approaches to assimilate this information are explored through case studies on spiralling whitefly, Aleurodicus dispersus and red banded mango caterpillar, Deanolis sublimbalis. Markov chain Monte Carlo simulation is used to estimate the probable extent of pests, given the observation and process model conditioned by surveillance data. Statistical methods, based on time-to-event models, are developed to apply hierarchical Bayesian models to early detection programs and to demonstrate area freedom from pests. The value of early detection surveillance programs is demonstrated through an application to interpret surveillance data for exotic plant pests with uncertain spread rates. The model suggests that typical early detection programs provide a moderate reduction in the probability of an area being infested but a dramatic reduction in the expected area of incursions at a given time. Estimates of spiralling whitefly extent are examined at local, district and state-wide scales. The local model estimates the rate of natural spread and the influence of host architecture, host suitability and inspector efficiency. These parameter estimates can support the development of robust surveillance programs. Hierarchical Bayesian models for the human-mediated spread of spiralling whitefly are developed for the colonisation of discrete cells connected by a modified gravity model. By estimating dispersal parameters, the model can be used to predict the extent of the pest over time. An extended model predicts the climate restricted distribution of the pest in Queensland. These novel human-mediated movement models are well suited to demonstrating area freedom at coarse spatio-temporal scales. At finer scales, and in the presence of ecological complexity, exploratory models are developed to investigate the capacity for surveillance information to estimate the extent of red banded mango caterpillar. It is apparent that excessive uncertainty about observation and ecological parameters can impose limits on inference at the scales required for effective management of response programs. The thesis contributes novel statistical approaches to estimating the extent of pests and develops applications to assist decision-making across a range of plant biosecurity surveillance activities. Hierarchical Bayesian modelling is demonstrated as both a useful analytical tool for estimating pest extent and a natural investigative paradigm for developing and focussing biosecurity programs.

Human-body shadowing effects on indoor MIMO-OFDM channels at 5.2 GHz

Pedestrian movement is known to cause significant effects on indoor MIMO channels. In this paper, a statistical characterization of the indoor MIMO-OFDM channel subject ot pedestrian movement is reported. The experiment used 4 sending and 4 receiving antennas and 114 sub-carriers at 5.2 GHz. Measurement scenarios varied from zero to ten pedestrians walking randomly between transmitter (tx) and receiver (Rx) arrays. The empirical cumulative distribution function (CDF) of the received fading envelope fits the Ricean distribution with K factors ranging from 7dB to 15 dB, for the 10 pedestrians and vacant scenarios respectively. In general, as the number of pedestrians increase, the CDF slope tends to decrease proportionally. Furthermore, as the number of pedestrians increase, increasing multipath contribution, the dynamic range of channel capacity increases proportionally. These results are consistent with measurement results obtained in controlled scenarios for a fixed narrowband Single-Input Single-Output (SISO) link at 5.2 GHz in previous work. The described empirical characterization provides an insight into the prediction of human-body shadowing effects for indoor MIMO-OFDM channels at 5.2 GHz.

Wavefront aberrations and the depth of focus of the human eye

The depth of focus (DOF) can be defined as the variation in image distance of a lens or an optical system which can be tolerated without incurring an objectionable lack of sharpness of focus. The DOF of the human eye serves a mechanism of blur tolerance. As long as the target image remains within the depth of focus in the image space, the eye will still perceive the image as being clear. A large DOF is especially important for presbyopic patients with partial or complete loss of accommodation (presbyopia), since this helps them to obtain an acceptable retinal image when viewing a target moving through a range of near to intermediate distances. The aim of this research was to investigate the DOF of the human eye and its association with the natural wavefront aberrations, and how higher order aberrations (HOAs) can be used to expand the DOF, in particular by inducing spherical aberrations ( 0 4 Z and 0 6 Z ). The depth of focus of the human eye can be measured using a variety of subjective and objective methods. Subjective measurements based on a Badal optical system have been widely adopted, through which the retinal image size can be kept constant. In such measurements, the subject.s tested eye is normally cyclopleged. Objective methods without the need of cycloplegia are also used, where the eye.s accommodative response is continuously monitored. Generally, the DOF measured by subjective methods are slightly larger than those measured objectively. In recent years, methods have also been developed to estimate DOF from retinal image quality metrics (IQMs) derived from the ocular wavefront aberrations. In such methods, the DOF is defined as the range of defocus error that degrades the retinal image quality calculated from the IQMs to a certain level of the possible maximum value. In this study, the effect of different amounts of HOAs on the DOF was theoretically evaluated by modelling and comparing the DOF of subjects from four different clinical groups, including young emmetropes (20 subjects), young myopes (19 subjects), presbyopes (32 subjects) and keratoconics (35 subjects). A novel IQM-based through-focus algorithm was developed to theoretically predict the DOF of subjects with their natural HOAs. Additional primary spherical aberration ( 0 4 Z ) was also induced in the wavefronts of myopes and presbyopes to simulate the effect of myopic refractive correction (e.g. LASIK) and presbyopic correction (e.g. progressive power IOL) on the subject.s DOF. Larger amounts of HOAs were found to lead to greater values of predicted DOF. The introduction of primary spherical aberration was found to provide moderate increase of DOF while slightly deteriorating the image quality at the same time. The predicted DOF was also affected by the IQMs and the threshold level adopted. We then investigated the influence of the chosen threshold level of the IQMs on the predicted DOF, and how it relates to the subjectively measured DOF. The subjective DOF was measured in a group of 17 normal subjects, and we used through-focus visual Strehl ratio based on optical transfer function (VSOTF) derived from their wavefront aberrations as the IQM to estimate the DOF. The results allowed comparison of the subjective DOF with the estimated DOF and determination of a threshold level for DOF estimation. Significant correlation was found between the subject.s estimated threshold level for the estimated DOF and HOA RMS (Pearson.s r=0.88, p<0.001). The linear correlation can be used to estimate the threshold level for each individual subject, subsequently leading to a method for estimating individual.s DOF from a single measurement of their wavefront aberrations. A subsequent study was conducted to investigate the DOF of keratoconic subjects. Significant increases of the level of HOAs, including spherical aberration, coma and trefoil, can be observed in keratoconic eyes. This population of subjects provides an opportunity to study the influence of these HOAs on DOF. It was also expected that the asymmetric aberrations (coma and trefoil) in the keratoconic eye could interact with defocus to cause regional blur of the target. A dual-Badal-channel optical system with a star-pattern target was used to measure the subjective DOF in 10 keratoconic eyes and compared to those from a group of 10 normal subjects. The DOF measured in keratoconic eyes was significantly larger than that in normal eyes. However there was not a strong correlation between the large amount of HOA RMS and DOF in keratoconic eyes. Among all HOA terms, spherical aberration was found to be the only HOA that helped to significantly increase the DOF in the studied keratoconic subjects. Through the first three studies, a comprehensive understanding of DOF and its association to the HOAs in the human eye had been achieved. An adaptive optics system was then designed and constructed. The system was capable of measuring and altering the wavefront aberrations in the subject.s eye and measuring the resulting DOF under the influence of different combination of HOAs. Using the AO system, we investigated the concept of extending the DOF through optimized combinations of 0 4 Z and 0 6 Z . Systematic introduction of a targeted amount of both 0 4 Z and 0 6 Z was found to significantly improve the DOF of healthy subjects. The use of wavefront combinations of 0 4 Z and 0 6 Z with opposite signs can further expand the DOF, rather than using 0 4 Z or 0 6 Z alone. The optimal wavefront combinations to expand the DOF were estimated using the ratio of increase in DOF and loss of retinal image quality defined by VSOTF. In the experiment, the optimal combinations of 0 4 Z and 0 6 Z were found to provide a better balance of DOF expansion and relatively smaller decreases in VA. Therefore, the optimal combinations of 0 4 Z and 0 6 Z provides a more efficient method to expand the DOF rather than 0 4 Z or 0 6 Z alone. This PhD research has shown that there is a positive correlation between the DOF and the eye.s wavefront aberrations. More aberrated eyes generally have a larger DOF. The association of DOF and the natural HOAs in normal subjects can be quantified, which allows the estimation of DOF directly from the ocular wavefront aberration. Among the Zernike HOA terms, spherical aberrations ( 0 4 Z and 0 6 Z ) were found to improve the DOF. Certain combinations of 0 4 Z and 0 6 Z provide a more effective method to expand DOF than using 0 4 Z or 0 6 Z alone, and this could be useful in the optimal design of presbyopic optical corrections such as multifocal contact lenses, intraocular lenses and laser corneal surgeries.

An introduction to the constraints-led approach to learning in outdoor education

Participation in outdoor education is underpinned by a learner's ability to acquire skills in activities such as canoeing, bushwalking and skiing and consequently the outdoor leader is often required to facilitate skill acquisition and motor learning. As such, outdoor leaders might benefit from an appropriate and tested model on how the learner acquires skills in order to design appropriate learning contexts. This paper introduces an approach to skill acquisition based on ecological psychology and dynamical systems theory called the constraints-led approach to skills acquisition. We propose that this student-centred approach is an ideal perspective for the outdoor leader to design effective learning settings. Furthermore, this open style of facilitation is also congruent with learning models that focus on other concepts such as teamwork and leadership.

Integrating a sustainable academic career around scholarly learning and teaching activities

To be scholarly in learning and teaching is rigorous academic work. It demands: currency and command of both discipline subject matter and educational theory; inquiring, methodical, and reflective approaches; the collection, evaluation and documentation of evidence of learning and teaching efficacy; and, optimally, entails participation in and communication among a community of teaching professionals. This chapter examines the author’s own practice in this regard to explicate the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of scholarly and scholarship approaches, as much as the ‘what’ and ‘where’ of that endeavour. In doing so, this meta‐analysis is made ‘community property’, in the same way that Shulman (1993: 6) exhorted we ‘change the status of teaching from private to community property’ so that teaching might be more greatly valued in the academy.

Vibration characteristics of slender structures under human induced loads

This paper presents the outcome of investigations and studies of the vibratioon characteristics and response of low frequency structural systems for a composite concrete steel floor plate and a reverse profiled cable tensioned foot bridge. These highly dynamic and slender structure are the engineering response to planning, aesthetic and environmental influences, but are prone to excessive and complex vibration. A number of design codes and practice guides provided information to engineers for vibration mitigation However, they are limited to very simple load function applied to a few uncoupled translational modes of excitation. Motivated by the need to address the knowledge gaps in this area, the investigations described in this paper focused on synchronous multi-modal and coupled excitation of the floor plate and footbridge with considerations for torsinal effects. The results showed the potential for adverse dynamic response from multi-modal and coupled excitation influenced by patterned loading, structure geometry, stiffness distribution, directional effects, forcing functions based on activity frequency and duration of foot contact, and modal participation. It was also shown that higher harmonics of the load frequency can excite higher modes in the composite floor structure. Such responsive behaviour is prevalent mainly in slender and lightweight construction and not in stiffer and heavier structural systems. The analytical techniques and methods used in these investigations can supplement the current limited code and best practice provisions for mitigating the impact of human induced vibrations in slender structural systems.

Understanding engagement with tangible user interfaces

This paper examines the issues surrounding the successful design and development of tangible technology for optimal engagement in playful activities. At present there is very little data on how, and in what contexts, tangible interactions with technology promote lasting engagement and immersion. The framework at the core of this paper has been designed to guide the effective design of tangible technology for immersive interaction. The paper investigates the relationship between tangible user interfaces (TUI) characteristics of representation and control, and immersive flow experiences produced through balancing skill and challenge in user interaction.

Designing cultural probes for children

This paper reports on the challenges faced during the design and deployment of educationally-focused cultural probes with children. The aim of the project was to use cultural probes to discover insights into children's interests and ideas within an educational context. The deployment of a cultural probe pack with children aged between 11 and 13 has demonstrated the method's effectiveness as a tool for design inspiration. Children's responses to the cultural probe have provided a valuable insight into the attributes of successful probe activities, the nature of contextual information which may be gathered and the limitations of the method.

Design for inspiration : children, personal connections and educational technology

The project is working towards building an understanding of the personal interests and experiences of children with the aim of designing appropriate, usable and, most importantly, inspirational educational technology. kidprobe, an adaptation of the technology probe concept, has been used as a lightweight method of gaining contextual information about children's interactions with 'fun' technology. kidprobe has produced design inspiration which focuses primarily on the social and emotional connections children made. The use of kidprobe has generated some important ideas for improving the use of probes with children. It is an important first step in understanding how to effectively adapt probing techniques to inspire the design of technology for children.

Improved salinity management for the Nebine / Mungallala / Wallam catchment

The low stream salinity naturally in the Nebine-Mungallala Catchment, extent of vegetation retention, relatively low rainfall and high evaporation indicates that there is a relatively low risk of rising shallow groundwater tables in the catchment. Scalding caused by wind and water erosion exposing highly saline sub-soils is a more important regional issue, such as in the Homeboin area. Local salinisation associated with evaporation of bore water from free flowing bore drains and bores is also an important land degradation issue particularly in the lower Nebine, Wallam and Mungallala Creeks. The replacement of free flowing artesian bores and bore drains with capped bores and piped water systems under the Great Artesian Basin bore rehabilitation program is addressing local salinisation and scalding in the vicinity of bore drains and preventing the discharge of saline bore water to streams. Three principles for the prevention and control of salinity in the Nebine Mungallala catchment have been identified in this review: • Avoid salinity through avoiding scalds – i.e. not exposing the near-surface salt in landscape through land degradation; • Riparian zone management: Scalding often occurs within 200m or so of watering lines. Natural drainage lines are most likely to be overstocked, and thus have potential for scalding. Scalding begins when vegetation is removed, and without that binding cover, wind and water erosion exposes the subsoil; and • Monitoring of exposed or grazed soil areas. Based on the findings of the study, we make the following recommendations: 1. Undertake a geotechnical study of existing maps and other data to help identify and target areas most at risk of rising water tables causing salinity. Selected monitoring should then be established using piezometers as an early warning system. 2. SW NRM should financially support scald reclamation activity through its various funding programs. However, for this to have any validity in the overall management of salinity risk, it is critical that such funding require the landholder to undertake a salinity hazard/risk assessment of his/her holding. 3. A staged approach to funding may be appropriate. In the first instance, it would be reasonable to commence funding some pilot scald reclamation work with a view to further developing and piloting the farm hazard/risk assessment tools, and exploring how subsequent grazing management strategies could be incorporated within other extension and management activities. Once the details of the necessary farm level activities have been more clearly defined, and following the outcomes of the geotechnical review recommended above, a more comprehensive funding package could be rolled out to priority areas. 4. We recommend that best-practice grazing management training currently on offer should be enhanced with information about salinity risk in scald-prone areas, and ways of minimising the likelihood of scald formation. 5. We recommend that course material be developed for local students in Years 6 and 7, and that arrangements be made with local schools to present this information. Given the constraints of existing syllabi, we envisage that negotiations may have to be undertaken with the Department of Education in order for this material to be permitted to be used. We have contact with key people who could help in this if required. 6. We recommend that SW NRM continue to support existing extension activities such as Grazing Land Management and the Monitoring Made Easy tools. These aids should be able to be easily expanding to incorporate techniques for monitoring, addressing and preventing salinity and scalding. At the time of writing staff of SW NRM were actively involved in this process. It is important that these activities are adequately resourced to facilitate the uptake by landholders of the perception that salinity is an issue that needs to be addressed as part of everyday management. 7. We recommend that SW NRM consider investing in the development and deployment of a scenario-modelling learning support tool as part of the awareness raising and education activities. Secondary salinity is a dynamic process that results from ongoing human activity which mobilises and/or exposes salt occurring naturally in the landscape. Time scales can be short to very long, and the benefits of management actions can similarly have immediate or very long time frames. One way to help explain the dynamics of these processes is through scenario modelling.

Long-term effects of hydrogel properties on human chondrocyte behavior

Hydrogels provide a 3-dimensional network for embedded cells and offer promise for cartilage tissue engineering applications. Nature-derived hydrogels, including alginate, have been shown to enhance the chondrocyte phenotype but are variable and not entirely controllable. Synthetic hydrogels, including polyethylene glycol (PEG)-based matrices, have the advantage of repeatability and modularity; mechanical stiffness, cell adhesion, and degradability can be altered independently. In this study, we compared the long-term in vitro effects of different hydrogels (alginate and Factor XIIIa-cross-linked MMP-sensitive PEG at two stiffness levels) on the behavior of expanded human chondrocytes and the development of construct properties. Monolayer-expanded human chondrocytes remained viable throughout culture, but morphology varied greatly in different hydrogels. Chondrocytes were characteristically round in alginate but mostly spread in PEG gels at both concentrations. Chondrogenic gene (COL2A1, aggrecan) expression increased in all hydrogels, but alginate constructs had much higher expression levels of these genes (up to 90-fold for COL2A1), as well as proteoglycan 4, a functional marker of the superficial zone. Also, chondrocytes expressed COL1A1 and COL10A1, indicative of de-differentiation and hypertrophy. After 12 weeks, constructs with lower polymer content were stiffer than similar constructs with higher polymer content, with the highest compressive modulus measured in 2.5% PEG gels. Different materials and polymer concentrations have markedly different potency to affect chondrocyte behavior. While synthetic hydrogels offer many advantages over natural materials such as alginate, they must be further optimized to elicit desired chondrocyte responses for use as cartilage models and for development of functional tissue-engineered articular cartilage.

The ratio of VEGF/PEDF expression in bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells regulates neovascularization

Angiogenesis, or neovascularization, is a finely balanced process controlled by pro- and anti-angiogenic factors. Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) is a major pro-angiogenic factor, whereas pigment epithelial-derived factor (PEDF) is the most potent natural angiogenesis inhibitor. In this study, the regulatory role of bone marrow stromal cells (BMSCs) during angiogenesis was assessed by the endothelial differentiation potential, VEGF/PEDF production and responses to pro-angiogenic and hypoxic conditions. The in vivo regulation of blood vessel formation by BMSCs was also explored in a SCID mouse model. Results showed that PEDF was expressed more prominently in BMSCs compared to VEGF. This contrasted with human umbilical vein endothelial cells (HUVECs) where the expression of VEGF was higher than that of PEDF. The ratio of VEGF/PEDF gene expression in BMSCs increased when VEGF concentration reached 40 ng/ml in the culture medium, but decreased at 80 ng/ml. Under CoCl2- induced hypoxic conditions, the VEGF/PEDF ratio of BMSCs increased significantly in both normal and angiogenic culture media. There was no expression of endothelial cell markers in BMSCs cultured in either pro-angiogenic or hypoxia culture conditions when compared with HUVECs. The in vivo study showed that VEGF/PEDF expression closely correlated with the degree of neovascularization, and that hypoxia significantly induced pro-angiogenic activity in BMSCs. These results indicate that, rather than being progenitors of endothelial cells, BMSCs play an important role in regulating the neovascularization process, and that the ratio of VEGF and PEDF may, in effect, be an indicator of the pro- or antiangiogenic activities of BMSCs.

Expression pattern of Oct-4, Sox2, and c-Myc in the primary culture of human dental pulp derived cells

Dental pulp cells (DPCs) have shown promising potential in dental tissue repair and regeneration. However, during in vitro culture, these cells undergo replicative senescence and result in significant alteration in cell proliferation and differentiation. Recently, the transcription factors of Oct-4, Sox2, c-Myc, and Klf4 have been reported to play a regulatory role in the stem cell self-renewal process, namely cell reprogramming. Therefore, it is interesting to know whether the replicative senescence during the culture of dental pulp cells is related to the diminishing of the expression of these transcription factors. In this study, we investigated the expression of the reprogramming markers Oct-4, Sox2, and c-Myc in the in vitro explant cultured dental pulp tissues and explant cultured dental pulp cells (DPCs) at various passages by immunofluorescence staining and real-time polymerase chain reaction analysis. Our results demonstrated that Oct-4, Sox2, and c-Myc translocated from nucleus in the first 2 passages to cytoplasm after the third passage in explant cultured DPCs. The mRNA expression of Oct-4, Sox2, and c-Myc elevated significantly over the first 2 passages, peaked at second passage (P < .05), and then decreased along the number of passages afterwards (P < .05). For the first time we demonstrated that the expression of reprogramming markers Oct-4, Sox2, and c-Myc was detectable in the early passaged DPCs, and the sequential loss of these markers in the nucleus during DPC cultures might be related to the cell fate of dental pulp derived cells during the long-term in vitro cultivation under current culture conditions.