In step

In Step was a wearable artwork consisting of a pair of embroidered foot bandages and an actuator ‘cushion’ embedded with 15 electromechanical actuator pistons. The bandage was embedded with woven, soft and flexible fabric sensors - interconnected with metallic connecting threads, fasteners and a wireless interface (in a final form). When wrapped around a foot and lower leg the sensors sat on the ball of the toes and heel. This ‘wearable interface’ was then connected wirelessly to a soft sculptural form, which employed actuators to tap gently in response to the qualities of the walk detected by the soft sensors. In this way the ‘tread qualities’ of the walker could then be felt by someone else holding this device against their stomach – thereby allowing pairs of participants to ‘feel’ the tactile qualities of the other's walk. The work was presented both as a working object and via a short videorecorded performance.----- In Step generated innovative new approaches to interface and sensor embedded clothing/footware whilst also creating an evocative vehicle to comment upon contemporary Post Colonial theories of weight and groundedness – particularly the psycho-geographical ‘separation’ from the landscape that inspired Paul Carter’s “environmentally grounded poetics”. The work’s final form also suggested critical new directions for responsive clothing and footwear for the emerging genre of smart textiles.

Characteristics of alternate supply of shielding gases in aluminum GMA welding

Recently, unlike conventional method in supplying shielding gas, a newly method which alternately supplies different kinds of shielding gases in weld zone is developed and partly commercialized. However, literature related to the present status of the technology in the actual weld field is very scant. To give better understand on this technology, this study was performed. Compared with conventional gas supply method, the variations of weld porosity and weld shape in aluminum welding with alternate supply method of pure argon and pure helium were compared with conventional gas supply method with pure argon and argon + 67%helium mixture, respectively. As a result, compared with the welding by supplying pure argon and argon + 67%helium mixture by conventional method, the welding by supplying alternately pure argon and pure helium, produced lower degree of weld porosity and deeper and broader weld penetration profile.

Manufacturing challenges with fabrication of large size mechanical harmonic drives

In truck manufacturing, the exhaust and air inlet pipes are specialized equipment that requires highly skilled, heavy machinery and small batch production methods. This paper describes a project to develop the computer numerically controlled (CNC) pipe bending process for a truck component manufacturer. The company supplies a huge range of heavy duty truck parts to the domestic market and is a significant supplier in Australia. The company has been using traditional methods of machine assisted manual pipe bending techniques. In a drive of continuous improvement, the company has acquired a pre-owned CNC bending machine capable of bending pipes automatically up to 25 bends. However, due to process mismatch, this machine is only used for single bending operation. The researchers studied the bending system and changed the manufacturing process. Using an example exhaust pipe as the benchmark, a significant drop of manufacturing lead time from 70 minutes to 40 minutes for each pipe was demonstrated. There was also a decrease of material cost due to the multiple bends part in one piece without cutting excessive materials for each single bend like it used to be.

Manufacturing challenges with fabrication of large size mechanical harmonic drives

Mechanical harmonic transmissions are relatively new kind of drives having several unusual features. For example, they can provide reduction ratio up to 500:1 in one stage, have very small teeth module compared to conventional drives and very large number of teeth (up to 1000) on a flexible gear. If for conventional drives manufacturing methods are well-developed, fabrication of large size harmonic drives presents a challenge. For example, how to fabricate a thin shell of 1.7m in diameter and wall thickness of 30mm having high precision external teeth at one end and internal splines at the other end? It is so flexible that conventional fabrication methods become unsuitable. In this paper special fabrication methods are discussed that can be used for manufacturing of large size harmonic drive components. They include electro-slag welding and refining, the use of special expandable devices to locate and hold a flexible gear, welding peripheral parts of disks with wear resistant materials with subsequent machining and others. These fabrication methods proved to be effective and harmonic drives built with the use of these innovative technologies have been installed on heavy metallurgical equipment and successfully tested.

The power of a single prototype : sustainable fashion textile design and the prevention of carcinogenic melanoma

Is there a role for prototyping (sketching, pattern making and sampling) in addressing real world problems of sustainability (People, Profit, and Planet), in this case social/healthcare issues, through fashion and textiles research? Skin cancer and related illnesses are a major cause of disfigurement and death in New Zealand and Australia where the rates of Melanoma, a serious form of skin cancer, are four times higher than in the Northern Hemisphere regions of USA, UK and Canada (IARC, 1992). In 2007, AUT University (Auckland University of Technology) Fashion Department and the Health Promotion Department of Cancer Society - Auckland Division (CSA) developed a prototype hat aimed at exploring a barrier type solution to prevent facial and neck skin damage. This is a paradigm shift from the usual medical research model. This paper provides an overview of the project and examines how a fashion prototype has been used to communicate emergent social, environmental, personal, physiological and technological concerns to the trans-disciplinary research team. The authors consider how the design of a product can enhance and support sustainable design practice while contributing a potential solution to an ongoing health issue. Analysis of this case study provides an insight into prototyping in fashion and textiles design, user engagement and the importance of requirements analysis in relation to sustainable development. The analysis and a successful outcome of the final prototype have provided a gateway to future collaborative research and product development.

Investigation of 'off-line‘ relaxation phenomena in oil filled transformers

Power transformers are one of the most important and costly equipment in power generation, transmission and distribution systems. Current average age of transformers in Australia is around 25 years and there is a strong economical tendency to use them up to 50 years or more. As the transformers operate, they get degraded due to different loading and environmental operating stressed conditions. In today‘s competitive energy market with the penetration of distributed energy sources, the transformers are stressed more with minimum required maintenance. The modern asset management program tries to increase the usage life time of power transformers with prognostic techniques using condition indicators. In the case of oil filled transformers, condition monitoring methods based on dissolved gas analysis, polarization studies, partial discharge studies, frequency response analysis studies to check the mechanical integrity, IR heat monitoring and other vibration monitoring techniques are in use. In the current research program, studies have been initiated to identify the degradation of insulating materials by the electrical relaxation technique known as dielectrometry. Aging leads to main degradation products like moisture and other oxidized products due to fluctuating thermal and electrical loading. By applying repetitive low frequency high voltage sine wave perturbations in the range of 100 to 200 V peak across available terminals of power transformer, the conductive and polarization parameters of insulation aging are identified. An in-house novel digital instrument is developed to record the low leakage response of repetitive polarization currents in three terminals configuration. The technique is tested with known three transformers of rating 5 kVA or more. The effects of stressing polarization voltage level, polarizing wave shapes and various terminal configurations provide characteristic aging relaxation information. By using different analyses, sensitive parameters of aging are identified and it is presented in this thesis.

Labour rights as human rights : workers' safety at work in Australian-based supply chains

The increase of buyer-driven supply chains, outsourcing and other forms of non-traditional employment has resulted in challenges for labour market regulation. One business model which has created substantial regulatory challenges is supply chains. The supply chain model involves retailers purchasing products from brand corporations who then outsource the manufacturing of the work to traders who contract with factories or outworkers who actually manufacture the clothing and textiles. This business model results in time and cost pressures being pushed down the supply chain which has resulted in sweatshops where workers systematically have their labour rights violated. Literally millions of workers work in dangerous workplaces where thousands are killed or permanently disabled every year. This thesis has analysed possible regulatory responses to provide workers a right to safety and health in supply chains which provide products for Australian retailers. This thesis will use a human rights standard to determine whether Australia is discharging its human rights obligations in its approach to combating domestic and foreign labour abuses. It is beyond this thesis to analyse Occupational Health and Safety (OHS) laws in every jurisdiction. Accordingly, this thesis will focus upon Australian domestic laws and laws in one of Australia’s major trading partners, the Peoples’ Republic of China (China). It is hypothesised that Australia is currently breaching its human rights obligations through failing to adequately regulate employees’ safety at work in Australian-based supply chains. To prove this hypothesis, this thesis will adopt a three- phase approach to analysing Australia’s regulatory responses. Phase 1 will identify the standard by which Australia’s regulatory approach to employees’ health and safety in supply chains can be judged. This phase will focus on analysing how workers’ rights to safety as a human right imposes a moral obligation on Australia to take reasonablely practicable steps regulate Australian-based supply chains. This will form a human rights standard against which Australia’s conduct can be judged. Phase 2 focuses upon the current regulatory environment. If existing regulatory vehicles adequately protect the health and safety of employees, then Australia will have discharged its obligations through simply maintaining the status quo. Australia currently regulates OHS through a combination of ‘hard law’ and ‘soft law’ regulatory vehicles. The first part of phase 2 analyses the effectiveness of traditional OHS laws in Australia and in China. The final part of phase 2 then analyses the effectiveness of the major soft law vehicle ‘Corporate Social Responsibility’ (CSR). The fact that employees are working in unsafe working conditions does not mean Australia is breaching its human rights obligations. Australia is only required to take reasonably practicable steps to ensure human rights are realized. Phase 3 identifies four regulatory vehicles to determine whether they would assist Australia in discharging its human rights obligations. Phase 3 then analyses whether Australia could unilaterally introduce supply chain regulation to regulate domestic and extraterritorial supply chains. Phase 3 also analyses three public international law regulatory vehicles. This chapter considers the ability of the United Nations Global Compact, the ILO’s Better Factory Project and a bilateral agreement to improve the detection and enforcement of workers’ right to safety and health.

Green fireballs and ball lightning

This paper presents evidence of an apparent connection between ball lightning and a green fireball. On the evening of the 16th May 2006 at least three fireballs were seen by many people in the skies of Queensland, Australia. One of the fireballs was seen passing over the Great Divide about 120 km west of Brisbane, and soon after, a luminous green ball about 30 cm in diameter was seen rolling down the slope of the Great Divide. A detailed description given by a witness indicates that the phenomenon was probably a highly luminous form of ball lightning. An hypothesis presented in this paper is that the passage of the Queensland fireball meteor created an electrically conductive path between the ionosphere and ground, providing energy for the ball lightning phenomenon. A strong similarity is noted between the Queensland fireball and the Pasamonte fireball seen in New Mexico in 1933. Both meteors exhibit a twist in the tail that could be explained by hydrodynamic forces. The possibility that multiple sightings of fireballs across South East Queensland were produced owing to fragments from comet 73P Schwassmann-Wachmann 3 is discussed.

Sell, give away, or donate : an exploratory study of fashion clothing disposal behaviour in two countries

This study investigates the antecedents to clothing disposal methods in two countries: Scotland and Australia. Increasing volumes of textiles are disposed of in landfill sites to the detriment of the environment. Extant research has identified the influences affecting an increased rate of purchasing and the trend to keep clothing for an ever shorter time. As such, it is imperative to examine the factors that affect consumers’ choice of clothing disposal method as limited research has been undertaken in this area of socially responsible consumption. The results of a survey administered to a sample of female consumers in the two countries identify antecedents of three forms of clothing disposal methods: selling through eBay or second-hand shops, giving away to family or friends or donating to charities. Findings show differences between the countries regarding clothing disposal behaviour. Nevertheless, general recycling behaviour was found to be the strongest predictor for donating to charities in both countries.

Ethical fashion : the human stories driving a fashion movement

This paper examines and compares two stories, the novel Helen Fleetwood (Elizabeth, 1841) and the film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), in relation to the Ethical Fashion movement. In 2005, more than 50 designers from around the world took part in The Ethical Fashion Show in Paris. This movement dictates that designers ensure that their garments are produced in an ethical manner, rather than support the ‘sweatshop’ environments of some industrialists determined to make a profit at the expense of workers rights. The momentum of the Ethical Fashion movement suggests that it is possible for fashion to be ethical, desirable and profitable in the 21st century. In 1841, after extensive research, Charlotte Elizabeth Tonna (using the pseudonym Charlotte Elizabeth) began to write about the atrocities of the factory system in industrialised England. Her novel, Helen Fleetwood, is one of the earliest examples of this kind of work, providing the reader with an extensive insight into the life of English factory workers in the mid-19th century. The story is about the Widow Green and her orphan dependents who are led, through circumstance, to leave their rural home and take up employment in the cotton mills of Manchester, with the hope of having an independent existence. Instead they discover the realities of factory life – extremely long hours, unsafe conditions, poor wages and a steady decline into extreme poverty. In his film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), director Micha X. Peled tells an alarmingly similar tale set in 21st century China. This ‘docu-drama’ (a recreation from actual interviews and diary entries) tells the story of ‘Little Jasmine’ who leaves her family’s farm to pursue an independent life in Southern China’s manufacturing district. It is not long before the realities of modern factory life are revealed to the teenage ‘heroine’ – crowded dormitories, long working hours, arbitrary fines and wages that do not compare with those of workers in the Western world. While much of the human story remains unchanged, there have been significant improvements in technology and safety in the last 165 years that result in the reality that not all clothing manufacture is performed in ‘sweatshop’ conditions. After a recent visit to a manufacturing plant in China, consultation with peers in the industry and having worked in the Australian fashion industry for many years, the author compares these stories with her own experiences.

Full Circle : a collection of prototypes

This exhibition engages with one of the key issues facing the fashion textiles industry in terms of future sustainability: that of the well being of fashion industry workers in Australia and New Zealand (people). This collection formed the basis of my honours dissertation (completed in New Zealand in 2008) which examines the contribution that design can make to sustainable manufacturing; particularly design for local production and consumption. An important aspect this work is the discussion of source, the work suggests that the made in China syndrome (in reference to the current state of over-consumerism in Australia and New Zealand) could be bought to a close through design to minimize waste and maximize opportunity for ‘people’: in this case both garment workers and the SMEs that employ them. The garments reflect the possibilities of focusing on a local approach that could be put into practice by a framework of SMEs that already exist. In addition the design process is highly transferrable and could be put into practice almost anywhere with minimal set up costs and a design ethos that progresses at the same pace as the skills of workers. This collection is a physical and conceptual embodiment of a source local/make local/sell local approach. The collection is an example of design that demonstrates that this is not an unrealistic ideal and is in fact possible through the development of a sustainable industry, in the sense of people, profit and planet, through adoption of a design process model that stops the waste at the source, by making better use of the raw materials and labour involved in making fashion garments. Although the focus of this research appears to centre on people and profit, this kind of source local/make local/sell local approach also has great benefits in terms of environmental sustainability.

Ways of telling : tacit knowledge transfer for fashion design research

The knowledge and skills of fashion and textiles design have traditionally been transferred through the indenture of an apprentice to a master. This relationship relied heavily on the transfer of explicit methods of design and making but also on the transfer of tacit knowledge, explained by Michael Polanyi as knowledge that cannot be explicitly known. By watching the master and emulating his efforts in the presence of his example, the apprentice unconsciously picks up the rules of the art, including those which are not explicitly known to the master himself (Polanyi, 1962 p.53). However, it has been almost half a century since Michael Polanyi defined the tacit dimension as a state in which “we can know more than we can tell” (Polanyi, 1967 p.4) at a time when the accepted means of ‘telling’ was through academic writing and publishing in hardcopy format. The idea that tacit knowledge transfer involves a one to one relationship between apprentice and master would appear to have dire consequences for a discipline, such as fashion design, where there is no such tradition of academic writing. This paper counters this point of view by providing examples of strategies currently being employed in online environments (principally through ‘craft’) and explains how these methods might prove useful to support tacit knowledge transfer in respect to academic research within the field of fashion design, and in the wider academic community involved in creative practice research. A summary of the implications of these new ideas for contemporary fashion research will conclude the paper.

A solution to fashion textile unsustainability

Today, polarisation of the fashion textile industry has already begun as smart, intelligent and conscientious fashion emerges as a backlash to the experience of choice fatigue, poor quality, dumb design and greenwash. But the process, development and manufacture of fashion textiles is complex. And the demand, both customer and industry driven, for new integrated product policies,2 designed to minimise environmental impacts by looking at all phases of a product's life cycle, is problematic due to complexity and a lack of networking tools. This article explores these issues through the construct of the department store of the future.

In vitro and in vivo evaluation of adenovirus combined silk fibroin scaffolds for BMP-7 gene delivery

Introduction and aims: For a scaffold material to be considered effective and efficient for tissue engineering it must be biocompatible as well as bioinductive. Silk fiber is a natural biocompatible material suitable for scaffold fabrication; however, silk is tissue-conductive and lacks tissue-inductive properties. One proposed method to make the scaffold tissue-inductive is to introduce plasmids or viruses encoding a specific growth factor into the scaffold. In this study, we constructed adenoviruses encoding bone morphogenetic protein-7 (BMP-7) and incorporated these into silk scaffolds. The osteo-inductive and new bone formation properties of these constructs were assessed in vivo in a critical-sized skull defect animal model. Materials and methods: Silk fibroin scaffolds containing adenovirus particles coding BMP-7 were prepared. The release of the adenovirus particles from the scaffolds was quantified by tissue-culture infective dose (TCID50) and the bioactivity of the released viruses was evaluated on human bone marrow mesenchymal stromal cells (BMSCs). To demonstrate the in vivo bone forming ability of the virus-carrying silk fibroin scaffold, the scaffold constructs were implanted into calvarial defects in SCID mice. Results: In vitro studies demonstrated that the virus-carrying silk fibroin scaffold released virus particles over a 3 week period while preserving their bioactivity. In vivo test of the scaffold constructs in critical-sized skull defect areas revealed that silk scaffolds were capable of delivering the adenovirus encoding BMP-7, resulting significantly enhanced new bone formation. Conclusions: Silk scaffolds carrying BMP-7 encoding adenoviruses can effectively transfect cells and enhance both in vitro and in vivo osteogenesis. The findings of this study indicate silk fibroin is a promising biomaterial for gene delivery to repair critical-sized bone defects.